Build 1st Gen Taco 4800 Build

DocRamsay said:
On topic, transfer cases. I have a 241 in the garage, it'll need a SYE. I would prefer having front dig available. A 205 I don't think would be geared low enough to keep me happy, so it'd need a crawl box. Crawl boxes are ~2k with a 205 input gear. An Atlas is $4k, lighter and shorter. I imagine I'd be looking at billet cases for the 205 at some point too.

Any reason not to do an Atlas and stick with a 205? Or just run the 241 and get this stupid thing on the trails?
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I would pay more to have a 205 over an Atlas. In the racing world I have seen way to many atlas' blow up while 205's beg for more. I would probably do a 241 to get it going and plan to put a 205 in after though..
 
broken4_racing said:
I would pay more to have a 205 over an Atlas. In the racing world I have seen way to many atlas' blow up while 205's beg for more. I would probably do a 241 to get it going and plan to put a 205 in after though..
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Got it, spending 6k on a behemoth now… might need a couch to crash on…
 
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Who’s great ****in idea was it to TIG all this ****? Getting better, and still not bad for a nurse. Found a 205 locally, gonna pick it up in the next week or so.
 
DocRamsay said:
On topic, transfer cases. I have a 241 in the garage, it'll need a SYE. I would prefer having front dig available. A 205 I don't think would be geared low enough to keep me happy, so it'd need a crawl box. Crawl boxes are ~2k with a 205 input gear. An Atlas is $4k, lighter and shorter. I imagine I'd be looking at billet cases for the 205 at some point too.

Any reason not to do an Atlas and stick with a 205? Or just run the 241 and get this stupid thing on the trails?
Click to expand...
Didn’t you say you have family in CA or at least drive this way?

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Yeah, I saw that.
But your welds aren’t actually terrible. Fairly even HAZ, and so on.

You’ll probably be pretty good by the end the chassis!
 
JayMcJay said:
Yeah, I saw that.
But your welds aren’t actually terrible. Fairly even HAZ, and so on.

You’ll probably be pretty good by the end the chassis!
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That's the hope! Never be afraid to suck at something new.
 
fl0w3n said:
Didn’t you say you have family in CA or at least drive this way?
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Yea, family in the south bay/peninsula. I found a local 205 for $450 and I'll figure out the 241 crawlbox probably for less than buying that 205 and driving to susanville.
 
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Anybody want a free dog? ****in puppy loves to eat wires and I thought I had put the seat heater wires somewhere that she couldn’t reach 🤦‍♂️
 
Here’s some more welds from your favorite male nurse. I still think I’m an idiot for TIGing it all, but it’s definitely forcing me to get better.
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Other challenge is doing all this without ****ing up my back. Sometimes that means calling it quits before I’m really ready, holding awkward positions is super limiting with less than standard amounts of vertebrae.
 
Odd question for the group and in no way meant to be rude...

Would a good mig weld be better than a ****tier tig weld? :homer:
 
Penetrode Offroad said:
Odd question for the group and in no way meant to be rude...

Would a good mig weld be better than a ****tier tig weld? :homer:
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I have a mechanical engineer friend that just autistically screeches about all this, despite not being able to weld either process himself. He thinks I should be doing pulsed spray MIG with 0.045 wire. He works for Apple and designed the interface of their googles to your face. I'd probably listen more if he designed bridges or something.

Only way to get good at TIG is to be ****ty at it first. Part of this project is to learn something new. If I felt in any way that my welds weren't safe, I'd stop and pick up the hot glue torch. They're just not pretty, but they are full pen, and without porosity. I've had a couple spots when I lost gas coverage, or pushed stick out too far, ground them all the way down and started over. These are literally my first TIG welds on tube, and my first TIG welds that aren't on the bench.
 
DocRamsay said:
I have a mechanical engineer friend that just autistically screeches about all this, despite not being able to weld either process himself. He thinks I should be doing pulsed spray MIG with 0.045 wire. He works for Apple and designed the interface of their googles to your face. I'd probably listen more if he designed bridges or something.

Only way to get good at TIG is to be ****ty at it first. Part of this project is to learn something new. If I felt in any way that my welds weren't safe, I'd stop and pick up the hot glue torch. They're just not pretty, but they are full pen, and without porosity. I've had a couple spots when I lost gas coverage, or pushed stick out too far, ground them all the way down and started over. These are literally my first TIG welds on tube, and my first TIG welds that aren't on the bench.
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Im a ME and a welder. Pulsed spray is nice for structural steel not for a cage :lmao:
Your welds are fine. You dont have to be stacking dimes to have a "good" weld. First tig on tube? That ****s hard, keep it up. Like you said, as long as you have full pen and no porosity, you're in the clear.
 
Speediturtle said:
Im a ME and a welder. Pulsed spray is nice for structural steel not for a cage :lmao:
Your welds are fine. You dont have to be stacking dimes to have a "good" weld. First tig on tube? That ****s hard, keep it up. Like you said, as long as you have full pen and no porosity, you're in the clear.
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I've been getting real good at grinding tungsten :lmao:
 
The weld doesn't have to be beautiful, it needs to be sound. Just make sure you get enough weld on the joint with good penetration. If you see a spot that looks a little light, add more weld. The biggest issue I see people have with TIG welding is not enough material added. They get hung up on tiny pretty beads and end up with the legs and throat being under size.
Being a cage, I assume .120" wall tube. There's your min leg length and the face of a fillet should be ~1.5 times that .120".

Props on jumping in with both feet. I do cringe a bit that you chose a roll cage to pop your cherry on. The implications of failure are about as high as it can get.
 
No real major updates, just finger ****ing this thing to death. I know I keep saying it, but I’m just so happy that I’m not bending and notching all this tube. Absolutely the best $2500 I’ve spent on this stupid thing, I’m genuinely thinking about getting rid of my bender.

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Have you seen my big black shocks? I’ve been working with carbon_shocks on this package and it’s been a great experience. Starting off, as we were going back and forth, Daniel eventually just ****in called me. We landed on 3.5x14 up front, 3.5x16 out back with finned 3.5” resis for the coilovers, by the math I could run a 3.75 spring and get a bit more oil volume without having to jump to a 4.25. Bumps, 2.5x2.5 pin top up front, 3.0x4 out back with a rebound bypass.

We had some issues, mostly because we’re doing a weird ass size coilover. It’s lead to some creative solutions, namely running a 4.25 lower and 3.75 upper. Should keep the sliders nice and happy. We had some production/communication issues as well, some on my side, some on theirs. However, Daniel has always answered whenever I call or text.

Overall, I’m excited to run them and have been impressed by the quality of everything. My pops runs a large aerospace machine shop, and he’s made me real picky about machining. All the little details are there, chamfers and such.

Anyway, here’s my big black shocks:
 

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DocRamsay said:
Have you seen my big black shocks? I’ve been working with carbon_shocks on this package and it’s been a great experience. Starting off, as we were going back and forth, Daniel eventually just ****in called me. We landed on 3.5x14 up front, 3.5x16 out back with finned 3.5” resis for the coilovers, by the math I could run a 3.75 spring and get a bit more oil volume without having to jump to a 4.25. Bumps, 2.5x2.5 pin top up front, 3.0x4 out back with a rebound bypass.

We had some issues, mostly because we’re doing a weird ass size coilover. It’s lead to some creative solutions, namely running a 4.25 lower and 3.75 upper. Should keep the sliders nice and happy. We had some production/communication issues as well, some on my side, some on theirs. However, Daniel has always answered whenever I call or text.

Overall, I’m excited to run them and have been impressed by the quality of everything. My pops runs a large aerospace machine shop, and he’s made me real picky about machining. All the little details are there, chamfers and such.

Anyway, here’s my big black shocks:
Click to expand...
The picture of the shocks make them look small. Sure gives proof that the camera angle matters when showing size huh.
 
DocRamsay said:
Have you seen my big black shocks? I’ve been working with carbon_shocks on this package and it’s been a great experience. Starting off, as we were going back and forth, Daniel eventually just ****in called me. We landed on 3.5x14 up front, 3.5x16 out back with finned 3.5” resis for the coilovers, by the math I could run a 3.75 spring and get a bit more oil volume without having to jump to a 4.25. Bumps, 2.5x2.5 pin top up front, 3.0x4 out back with a rebound bypass.

We had some issues, mostly because we’re doing a weird ass size coilover. It’s lead to some creative solutions, namely running a 4.25 lower and 3.75 upper. Should keep the sliders nice and happy. We had some production/communication issues as well, some on my side, some on theirs. However, Daniel has always answered whenever I call or text.

Overall, I’m excited to run them and have been impressed by the quality of everything. My pops runs a large aerospace machine shop, and he’s made me real picky about machining. All the little details are there, chamfers and such.

Anyway, here’s my big black shocks:
Click to expand...
how long was it from order to delivery for them?
 
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