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Rust Bucket 1st Gen Taco build thread

I posted some of this in my other panhard/drag link angle thread, but for posterity:

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I modified the other barnes panhard tower I have and got it to like half a degree difference, so that's just where it's gonna live. I lost a little bit of uptravel from the panhard being raised back up but I think the tires will likely get into the fenders before the panhard gets into the oil pan, so I'm not gonna worry about it. I do need to figure out where to land bumpstops though. Would it be super retarded to have bumpstops hit the johnny joints on the lower links? I'm not sure where else to land them, especially on the driver's side.

Another pair of u-joints on the way because I broke caps on the two I had trying to get them in the axles. I'm halfway expecting to have to buy new inner axles too because these yokes are egg shaped, but we'll see.

The other thing is that I'm strongly debating not messing with the upper link now. With the caster and pinion angle better by making the lowers longer, the 4 link calculator shows almost no change from moving the axle side link bolt back a few inches and making the link shorter, so it really doesn't seem like the juice is worth the squeeze. That gets me in the woods sooner (yes I should probably change the rod ends while I have it on jack stands, no I probably won't right now because I am lazy and want to drive this sometime this century).


Also:
thezentree said:
my also DINK lifestyle
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Kid number 1 will be here end of February.

No pressure. This is fine.
 
Honestly… I don’t see any outrageous issues with the panhard…. I personally think the issues with the Allpro kit are with the upper link. I have zero proof of that, though, as I had AddictedOffroad cut it off and put a 4wu kit on. In hindsight… I wish I had had them do minimal fix to make the geometry work. Only because using 14” CO’s make it really hard to package the brakes.

Net/net… I think you can make that work well
 
I'm pretty close to just sending it once I get the panhard mount buttoned up and the axle guts back together. Treefrog says without moving the frame side lower mounts I'm not really going to see much improvement, and I'm coming up on 9 months of this thing taking up the garage.
 
thezentree said:
I'm pretty close to just sending it once I get the panhard mount buttoned up and the axle guts back together. Treefrog says without moving the frame side lower mounts I'm not really going to see much improvement, and I'm coming up on 9 months of this thing taking up the garage.
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Only 9 months?

Shoot my xcab hasn’t been on the trail in 36+ :flipoff2:
 
rockota said:
Only 9 months?

Shoot my xcab hasn’t been on the trail in 36+ :flipoff2:
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I’m a millennial, I expect instant gratification :flipoff2:

I have no real updates other than it took way too much of a fight to get u joints in the axles and I want to bitch about it.


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The good news is that my wheelin buddies from NC are coming up this coming weekend and we’re gonna do a short notice wheeling trip in the RRG (obv I’ll be in the 4Runner again) but I’m so hyped for it.
 
Kentucky is awful, don’t come here


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I ordered coilovers for the Tacoma on Friday, Fox 2.0 remote reservoirs. Accutune talked me into 14” shocks based on my travel numbers - with the 12” shocks I have like 2.5” of unused uptravel, but only 4” of droop. The 14” shocks have a little less than an inch of travel before the panhard hits the oil pan (thisisfine.jpg) but something like 9” of droop. I know that’s a lot so I’ll probably add limit straps when I figure out how much is enough.
 
Talk me out of moving my battery to the bed and just sticking it in a plastic boat box.

The factory tray has had a lot of its structure cut out to clear the steering box, so the PO's solution to the battery trying to introduce itself to the fan was to ratchet strap it to the inner fender and wedge a plastic Hardee's cup between the terminal and the inner fender. I need to fix it before I can drive it much, but I'd need to build a tray and figure out how to brace it. Putting the battery in the front right corner of the bed gets it out of the engine compartment and shifts some weight to the right and rear. Are there better ideas for solving this problem?
 
thezentree said:
Talk me out of moving my battery to the bed and just sticking it in a plastic boat box.

The factory tray has had a lot of its structure cut out to clear the steering box, so the PO's solution to the battery trying to introduce itself to the fan was to ratchet strap it to the inner fender and wedge a plastic Hardee's cup between the terminal and the inner fender. I need to fix it before I can drive it much, but I'd need to build a tray and figure out how to brace it. Putting the battery in the front right corner of the bed gets it out of the engine compartment and shifts some weight to the right and rear. Are there better ideas for solving this problem?
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Move it before your fender starts collapsing on itself.
rockota said:
xcab has battery in bed in a TG battery cage.
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Same^, however that TG battery tray sucks dong, Barnes or even some random Amazon one works better
 
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Slander said:
Move it before your fender starts collapsing on itself.

Same^, however that TG battery tray sucks dong, Barnes or even some random Amazon ones look better
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Maybe mine's Barnes. No clue... it's covered. 🤷‍♂️
 
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