TTB Tech Tips?

Anybody have a measurement on the 2WD SuperDuty radius arms?
 
arse_sidewards said:
36.5" +0"/-0.25"
Click to expand...
Ranger beams are 19" if you drop a steel rod through the bolt holes, stick a tape on that and measure to the front face of the washer.

Looking at a set of ranger and a set of F150 there will probably be 1/8" or so variation as the washer kind of sits on the weld.
 
This solved all my clearance problems, goes right to bump stop as well as a D35 would (not that that's not still **** on the driver's side). Might not even have to trim the top flange (I suspect the 3rd will limit me first). Camber is probably off compared to what the other beam is and/or what it needs to be but I'll address that later.

attachment(862).jpg


On the passenger side I wound up having to pie cut the beam at the window and then bend it to push the C forward relative to the pivot. The beam needs to be a ) shape when viewed from above in order to clear everything and still put the C vaguely where it needs to be.
 
This is what I mean by I had to "bend" the passenger beam forward. If this were stock it'd need like an 8x8 rather than a 3x3 to have the C end of the beam be about as far as it is from the table.

attachment(863).jpg
 
The beam window on the pass side basically eats the mount for the driver's beam.

attachment(866).jpg
 
Ok, so like I said previously you can't "easily" use the SD radius arms on an RBV because that puts them right in the crossmember and you can't use the OEM brackets and it'd be a ****show involving making a new crossmember. Or you can triangulate them inboard which pulls the mounting points forward enough. Either way you're making a crossmember though.


Here's the concept:

attachment(907).jpg



World's most expensive drill press did things.

attachment(906).jpg


Assembly happened.

attachment(910).jpg


And it fits, well enough. Like <1/8" of clearance at the top and <1/4" at the bottom, well within what the frame can be force flexed to accommodate. (Obviously upside down in the picture but it doesn't matter.)

attachment(908).jpg


Oh, and the upper tube conflicts with the trans drain plug area. I'm gonna need to slice and dice it in all sorts of ways that are TBD. I did that on purpose to get the zone where I'm gonna mount the radius arms as high up as I could.
 
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Which brings us to my question:

I will weld in 1/2 pipe inserts and mount this using 4x 5/8 bolts or a comparable metric size.

Frame is gonna get drilled through all the way to the top flange and I'm gonna use some pipe sleeves to keep it from collapsing like so:

attachment(909).jpg


Y'all think that's enough or should I weld some tabs on to increase it's fore-aft footprint?
 
arse_sidewards said:
Which brings us to my question:

I will weld in 1/2 pipe inserts and mount this using 4x 5/8 bolts or a comparable metric size.

Frame is gonna get drilled through all the way to the top flange and I'm gonna use some pipe sleeves to keep it from collapsing like so:

attachment(909).jpg


Y'all think that's enough or should I weld some tabs on to increase it's fore-aft footprint?
Click to expand...
You shouldn't need to drill through the top flange, just bolt that to the bottom flange.

I have 4 1/2" bolts holding my radius arm brackets on per side and they've never been an issue.
 
posford said:
You shouldn't need to drill through the top flange, just bolt that to the bottom flange.

I have 4 1/2" bolts holding my radius arm brackets on per side and they've never been an issue.
Click to expand...
I only chose 5/8 because that's what fits nice in a 1/2 pipe sleeve. I could go smaller. I'm not worried about bolt size. I'm worried about the mounting footprint. As it stands I've got all four mount points in about a 2" long by 4" tall space. That seems pretty insufficient to me as factory mounts usually spread it out across 6" of length or so and about the same height. I guess I could justify it by saying there's no serious torsional load on this crossmember and the rear most bolt on the bracket that goes with an OEM style bayonet mount isn't doing much anyway. Tying it into the top flange is real easy (just run the drill farther and run longer bolts) is a pretty way to make it at least a little better.

The fact that everybody didn't say right away that I needed more pretty much tells me everything I need to know here.
 
Its 2025,
Moog springs seem to be discontinued, or at least harder to get.
Factory f150/Bronco springs are roughly 366 spring rate.
Lots of the aftermarket lift/leveling springs seem to be in the 400lb range.

What low budget spring recommendations for 1.5-3” lift would you folks recommend for bombing Forrest roads, gravel roads.

Test subject is a 1990 Bronco with a 351, C6. No heavy bumpers or winch. Goal is 35s with trimming.

I have some e350, 460 ambulance springs. Looks like they have way too high of a spring rate?
 
Covecrawler said:
Its 2025,
Moog springs seem to be discontinued, or at least harder to get.
Factory f150/Bronco springs are roughly 366 spring rate.
Lots of the aftermarket lift/leveling springs seem to be in the 400lb range.

What low budget spring recommendations for 1.5-3” lift would you folks recommend for bombing Forrest roads, gravel roads.

Test subject is a 1990 Bronco with a 351, C6. No heavy bumpers or winch. Goal is 35s with trimming.

I have some e350, 460 ambulance springs. Looks like they have way too high of a spring rate?
Click to expand...
Weld in flat mounts, use 3" coil over springs. Many rates and lengths to chose from. My stupid duty has 650x20" springs on it. No one makes lift springs for 2X SD's.
 
bdkw1 said:
Weld in flat mounts, use 3" coil over springs. Many rates and lengths to chose from. My stupid duty has 650x20" springs on it. No one makes lift springs for 2X SD's.
Click to expand...

I'd be real interested to see if someone can make something like that work with a spring rate about half that.
 
arse_sidewards said:
I'd be real interested to see if someone can make something like that work with a spring rate about half that.
Click to expand...
Easy, our old 7S ranger was done that way, where I got the idea from. They have rates from 200? To 700, if you can't find something in there you're doing it wrong.
 
To add, the ranger had pivoting lower mounts that were made out of 2" trailer hitch balls. Worked really well as it let the springs rotate too.
20251122_124659.jpg
 
bdkw1 said:
Easy, our old 7S ranger was done that way, where I got the idea from. They have rates from 200? To 700, if you can't find something in there you're doing it wrong.
Click to expand...
What spring rate did you actually run on that truck (or ballpark it) and what did you do for retaining the coil.

My understanding is the reason you don't get tall soft TTB lift springs is because between the legnth, the weird angles and the thin coil wire they kind of want to **** off sideways.
 
arse_sidewards said:
What spring rate did you actually run on that truck (or ballpark it) and what did you do for retaining the coil.

My understanding is the reason you don't get tall soft TTB lift springs is because between the legnth, the weird angles and the thin coil wire they kind of want to **** off sideways.
Click to expand...
Race truck so pretty sure it was 300 or 350.
 
Covecrawler said:
What low budget spring recommendations for 1.5-3” lift would you folks recommend for bombing Forrest roads, gravel roads.

Test subject is a 1990 Bronco with a 351, C6. No heavy bumpers or winch. Goal is 35s with trimming.
Click to expand...

My daily driver:
PXL_20250605_150916766.jpg


2.5" Tuff Country springs in front, with minor trimming to fit 35s. Running a single Bilstein shock on each side. It's actually a really nice ride, I would absolutely recommend them.
 
Been eyeing the desolate/solo leveling kits with the 5100s, camber adjusters, and leveling coils for my bronco. Seems like a decent deal considering the shocks themselves are $164 a piece from Billstein. Pretty sure each one of the lift kit companies is selling the exact same kit. Any reason to go with the dual front shocks other than it looks cool? Runs an extra $200 or so.

Planning on that kit and a set of Super Duty radius arms for a daily driver/bombing fire roads in the mountains after work type truck. Planning on sticking to the 33's that are on it now and doing all the dana 50 stuff to the front axle and going with 4.10s.
 
LScout800 said:
Been eyeing the desolate/solo leveling kits with the 5100s, camber adjusters, and leveling coils for my bronco. Seems like a decent deal considering the shocks themselves are $164 a piece from Billstein. Pretty sure each one of the lift kit companies is selling the exact same kit. Any reason to go with the dual front shocks other than it looks cool? Runs an extra $200 or so.

Planning on that kit and a set of Super Duty radius arms for a daily driver/bombing fire roads in the mountains after work type truck. Planning on sticking to the 33's that are on it now and doing all the dana 50 stuff to the front axle and going with 4.10s.
Click to expand...

are you looking for an easy button or cant fab?
 
mobil1syn said:
are you looking for an easy button or cant fab?
Click to expand...
Easy button/no budget. Daily driver so I do not want it down for too long, trying to keep it under $2k. May also just build a set of arms, have some extra joints/weld bungs laying around.

In the future I want to stuff in some big shocks and go do sick jumps but that is not possible at the moment, have a lot of other projects.
 
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