Build The DirtStyle Runna (1st gen 4Runner on tons)

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Brackets did come in. I got a little sidetracked though. Decided to put my spare Method beadlocks and my Sparco Evo XL seats im not using to work. LOL
 
tribal4krawler said:
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Brackets did come in. I got a little sidetracked though. Decided to put my spare Method beadlocks and my Sparco Evo XL seats im not using to work. LOL
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this **** right here is a great time filler. one things that stupid awesome is on beam get out different rigs and see ow the different 4 links work. like a bomber fab rig is almost unstopable in the rocks but a jeep with 4 link always flips over backward. very fun in deed.
 
Yeah I’ve been playing beamng since it came out on Steam in 2015. It’s been unbelievable watching the game improve and advance the last 10 years, especially after I helped Tom get hooked up with Dave, then they created the Johnson Valley map and now it’s just awesome. Super steep learning curve if you’ve never played the game and it requires a really good PC and steering wheel system but once you get past all that and join all the discords and patreons for all the really cool **** it’s so much fun.
 
One bummer is that I did some pretty extensive measuring and I just don’t think the coilovers will fit outside the frame. I also eventually want to be able to run 2.5s so I think I’m going to bite the bullet and box the frame for plenty of coilover clearance. So I’ll be picking up some 2x4 box tube for that project.
 
ridered3 said:
Just got caught up on your changes to the Runner! So glad you are getting to wheel and have family time again!
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Thanks! Yeah it’s been super rad. Just need to get this 4link done. Took some time off last weekend to go trail run 15 miles as part of a Ragnar relay team running 120 miles total. Had a ton of fun, especially the running at night in the rocks. Kind of reminded me of how quickly we have to scan terrain at night racing in Ultra4. Only tripped and fell once but it did trash my left ear. Luckily my ears are just decoration.
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Got back on the 4 link last night, got some of my 2” .250 links cut and tacked and started working on my coilover upper mount. I think I’ve got a good plan there. Ill be notching the frame as I want to be able to eventually run 2.5” coilovers in the rear someday. It looks like I could maaaaaaaybe just barely clear the 2.0s without messing with the frame but I’d rather have good clearance than be fighting with it. I’m going to aim to have around 8” up/down I think. I might have to change spring rates for the ride height but we’ll see.
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dumb question, why not just rebuild the rear frame section? square tube, a miter, lay it on the inside of the existing frame and build a quick and dirty body mount?
 
mobil1syn said:
dumb question, why not just rebuild the rear frame section? square tube, a miter, lay it on the inside of the existing frame and build a quick and dirty body mount?
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That definitely was a thought too. But if I were going to do THAT I might as well just do a full back half to tube. I also am nervous that if I chopped the back off the frame might jump around. I’m sure it’s tweaked/under pressure and I don’t want to to chase getting it back to square. Your idea of welding the box tube behind and then cutting the original frame section out would definitely work. If I already had some 2x4 box I’d go that route but I only have 2x6 lol
 
Yeah that’s not far off of what I’m going to do. Stand by, I should make some decent progress tonight/tomorrow.
 
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Done. Ride height is pretty much right on, I’d like it to be a tad lower but I also don’t have both bottles or any of the tools in the back. I suspect once I’ve got everything loaded up it’ll probably drop another inch or so and be totally dialed front to back. . At least it’s not saggy ass’d in the back
 
Looks awesome!

Quick question, I may have missed it, are those true Bead Locks, or Bead Grips? I'm debating keeping my rig light and running 15" NV's with Bead Grips. I've run them before, but never on a crawler.
 
Diablo169 said:
Looks awesome!

Quick question, I may have missed it, are those true Bead Locks, or Bead Grips? I'm debating keeping my rig light and running 15" NV's with Bead Grips. I've run them before, but never on a crawler.
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They’re real beadlocks. 17x9 method 105s
 
Right now, about 24” to belly with 7psi in the tires. It does have a 2” body lift so that also adds to the height appearance, without that it’d visually look a lot lower. My biggest hindrance in making the truck lower right now is the front axle suspension design and frame rails. Technically though my race Comanche was about the same wheelbase and belly height but with 35s 😂😂😂😂 My next major project is to basically front half the truck which would allow me to lower the front by probably 3” and still be able to get 5” uptravel and then I can lower the back just using different spring rated coils to get 5” up and 11” down. Right now I’m at 8 up/down. It’s definitely something I look forward to doing but I think I’m going to wait until after Hammers. I know how it is now works in the front so I really don’t want to take too many swings at once. I’m sure there’s still some dialing in to do with the rear 4 link. Gonna try and do a Hidden Falls trip maybe thanksgiving week.
 
mobil1syn said:
link angles seem steep, but it could be that the fronts are 5ft long so they appear flatter.

tie those together and then to the other side for a smooth skid, not rock anchors

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The rears are roughly 42” long. The fronts are ******edly long lol. And yep, I’m planning on doing exactly that. Maybe even a crossmember across that ties them in too and makes that whole area a flat belly like a buggy subframe. Idk though, it’d also add quite a bit more weight too.
 
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Y’all like this? I used some of my 2x6 box and cut it out to fit the gap. Next few nights I’ll be busy but Thursday night or this weekend I’ll have time to weld it up on both sides. The one bummer about doing it this way is that this locks me into this long MF front link which isn’t a deal killer but it would be nice to have a more reasonable front link length.
 
tribal4krawler said:
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Y’all like this? I used some of my 2x6 box and cut it out to fit the gap. Next few nights I’ll be busy but Thursday night or this weekend I’ll have time to weld it up on both sides. The one bummer about doing it this way is that this locks me into this long MF front link which isn’t a deal killer but it would be nice to have a more reasonable front link length.
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You can cut all that **** off when you redo the suspension, so I wouldn't worry about it to much. Having that gap filled in the meantime is going to help tremendously in the rocks.
 
tribal4krawler said:
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Y’all like this? I used some of my 2x6 box and cut it out to fit the gap. Next few nights I’ll be busy but Thursday night or this weekend I’ll have time to weld it up on both sides. The one bummer about doing it this way is that this locks me into this long MF front link which isn’t a deal killer but it would be nice to have a more reasonable front link length.
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That looks great!
 
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