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Rocks & Flops: a 1-Ton 3rd Gen 4Runner Build
Snowy
Well-known member
I'll second this as being a great adjustment to my rock donkey Tacoma without a ton of shock travel before it gets into the bumps.
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- #64
Toy4rnr
I swapped in a master cylinder from a late 80s Suburban, ACDelco part number 18M1884 (it has a 1.25” bore). The brake booster is stock though (dual diaphragm booster).
The bolt hole spacing on the Suburban master cylinder is slightly wider than the two bolts on my booster, so I had to wallow out the holes a little.
The plunger on the booster also had to be shaved down a little.
I also installed a Wilwood proportioning valve (part number 260-10922) for the line going to the rear brakes.
Custom flexible lines from a local shop (Crown Performance) go from the frame to a T on each axle housing, plus flexible lines were installed at all 4 calipers.
I’m very happy with my brakes, no issues stopping these 40s in a hurry.
I swapped in a master cylinder from a late 80s Suburban, ACDelco part number 18M1884 (it has a 1.25” bore). The brake booster is stock though (dual diaphragm booster).
The bolt hole spacing on the Suburban master cylinder is slightly wider than the two bolts on my booster, so I had to wallow out the holes a little.
The plunger on the booster also had to be shaved down a little.
I also installed a Wilwood proportioning valve (part number 260-10922) for the line going to the rear brakes.
Custom flexible lines from a local shop (Crown Performance) go from the frame to a T on each axle housing, plus flexible lines were installed at all 4 calipers.
I’m very happy with my brakes, no issues stopping these 40s in a hurry.
- Thread starter
- #65
All the wheels are 8x170
- Thread starter
- #66
In order to get the rear triangulated 4-link to fit properly, I swapped in an F150 fuel tank (Spectra Premium part number F1G1FA).
I wanted the fuel gauge on the dash to work like stock, so I made a bracket that can attach the Toyota sending unit to the Ford fuel pump. The float arm required some modification to fit right.
Installing the fuel tank using the eimkeith bracket kit (had to lower it all ~1/2” to fit under the cab).
For the filler neck, I reused the stock cap and used a 2” flexible fuel hose from O’Reilly to connect to the tank. The tank vent is made from 1/2” fuel hose, connecting to a barb on the tank (McMaster-Carr part numbers 5463K86 and 1171N201).
All hooked up. Fuel gauge, lines, and fill-ups all work without any issues.
I wanted the fuel gauge on the dash to work like stock, so I made a bracket that can attach the Toyota sending unit to the Ford fuel pump. The float arm required some modification to fit right.
Installing the fuel tank using the eimkeith bracket kit (had to lower it all ~1/2” to fit under the cab).
For the filler neck, I reused the stock cap and used a 2” flexible fuel hose from O’Reilly to connect to the tank. The tank vent is made from 1/2” fuel hose, connecting to a barb on the tank (McMaster-Carr part numbers 5463K86 and 1171N201).
All hooked up. Fuel gauge, lines, and fill-ups all work without any issues.
GLTHFJ60
Stupid is as stupid does
Sick build. Watching.
Blase
Well-known member
That tank looks like it was built to fit that spot!!! Fantastic work.
Awesome tech, thanksToy4rnr
I swapped in a master cylinder from a late 80s Suburban, ACDelco part number 18M1884 (it has a 1.25” bore). The brake booster is stock though (dual diaphragm booster).
The bolt hole spacing on the Suburban master cylinder is slightly wider than the two bolts on my booster, so I had to wallow out the holes a little.
The plunger on the booster also had to be shaved down a little.
I also installed a Wilwood proportioning valve (part number 260-10922) for the line going to the rear brakes.
Custom flexible lines from a local shop (Crown Performance) go from the frame to a T on each axle housing, plus flexible lines were installed at all 4 calipers.
I’m very happy with my brakes, no issues stopping these 40s in a hurry.
Prepping to swap one tons under my 3rd gen and have been thinking about brakes, this is super useful info
- Thread starter
- #71
Jblack6527
Red Skull
Man, that is some badass fab work!
I used that same type of hose initially, it sucked imo, I got a more pliable one and put a 45* metal portion right where the fender well comes down, better clearance and less stress on the clamps. Just another option for those looking, I also put a 1 way fuel door inside the filler tube at the bottom so fuel wouldn't come up the neck.24”
Fill hose, vent hose, and rear diff breather hose all go up to the gas cap.
Attachments
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- #74
Yeah it’s more stiff than I’d like, it works so I won’t change it until it becomes an issue. I do like your solution more though.
Yeah if it ain't broke don't fix it lol, I just didn't get a clamp super tight one time and it weeped a bit, that and spitting gas out when full sometimes so I decided to change it up. Has been solid since. The elbow was just at a parts store, the hose was a Gates 23972 and the valve was TNK-0635DP2 I believe.
- Thread starter
- #77
Toy4rnr Sorry for taking so long to respond.
These are the parts I ordered to build the e-brake:
First, I marked and drilled new holes in the junction bracket.
Then installed the rivnuts
Cut the wire to length going into the cab, hooked up the cables going to the axles, and then assembled it all together
Then used some zip ties to tie the cables to the axle housing and upper links to get them out of harms way.
Later I found the junction bracket had bent (too much force on it I guess), so I straightened it back out and welded a 3/16” backing plate on it.
To be honest I’m not 100% happy with the e-brake the way it is right now. I adjusted the pre-load on the drums but it seems the brake only engages on the last click of the hand brake lever (which takes a bit of arm strength to do). I think I need to crimp new wire stops on the cables leading to the axle to get more preload, I’ll edit this post once I come up with a solution I’m happy with.
These are the parts I ordered to build the e-brake:
- A cable junction bracket to split the cable (E-Stopp B-EZ200)
- A wire union (Lokar WCA-8074)
- A housing end adjuster (Wilwood 330-11488, only need one though and don’t need the bracket)
- Two Ford brake cable assemblies (Raybestos BC95820)
- Four 1/4-20 round head Philips screws from Home Depot
First, I marked and drilled new holes in the junction bracket.
Then installed the rivnuts
Cut the wire to length going into the cab, hooked up the cables going to the axles, and then assembled it all together
Then used some zip ties to tie the cables to the axle housing and upper links to get them out of harms way.
Later I found the junction bracket had bent (too much force on it I guess), so I straightened it back out and welded a 3/16” backing plate on it.
To be honest I’m not 100% happy with the e-brake the way it is right now. I adjusted the pre-load on the drums but it seems the brake only engages on the last click of the hand brake lever (which takes a bit of arm strength to do). I think I need to crimp new wire stops on the cables leading to the axle to get more preload, I’ll edit this post once I come up with a solution I’m happy with.
350TacoZilla
Well-known member
Clean work with the bracket though. E-brake seems to be something a lot of builds just never get to or never get right.
GLTHFJ60
Stupid is as stupid does
That's a clean ebrake setup, nice work.
- Thread starter
- #82
Back to the rear axle build.
In 2011, Ford started making e-lockers for the Sterling 10.5 axles. They are a popular swap into older Sterlings (they are backwards compatible with all Sterling 10.25/10.5 differentials). So I found a used e-locker to swap into my rear differential (got it from car-part.com, search 2011 > Ford Truck F250 Super Duty > Ring and Pinion Only > Rear Axle, try each of the 4 gear ratio options, and in the results make sure the description says "with electric locker" or similar). I got mine from St James Auto & Truck Parts out of Missouri for $325 shipped.
I drilled a hole through the cast, tapped it, and used the following parts to wire it all up.
With this setup, I can loosen the cord grip and remove the locker (with the wiring) if needed. Be sure to stagger the male snap-plug terminals slightly so they can fit through the cord grip opening. Also be sure to RTV to the threads of the cord grip (the threads going into the diff) and it should seal up tight.
The locker engages with a simple dash switch. The 2-wires to the locker are simply power and ground, no relay or anything fancy. It doesn't matter which wire is the power/ground wire, the locker works both ways. My dash switch is connected to an ignition wire, just in case I forget to disengage the locker when I turn off the vehicle, my locker does disengage so my battery doesn't drain.
In 2011, Ford started making e-lockers for the Sterling 10.5 axles. They are a popular swap into older Sterlings (they are backwards compatible with all Sterling 10.25/10.5 differentials). So I found a used e-locker to swap into my rear differential (got it from car-part.com, search 2011 > Ford Truck F250 Super Duty > Ring and Pinion Only > Rear Axle, try each of the 4 gear ratio options, and in the results make sure the description says "with electric locker" or similar). I got mine from St James Auto & Truck Parts out of Missouri for $325 shipped.
I drilled a hole through the cast, tapped it, and used the following parts to wire it all up.
- 2-wire cable (McMaster-Carr 7082K26)
- Cable cord grip (McMaster-Carr 69915K111)
- Butt Splices (McMaster-Carr 7227K62), used inside the diff
- Male snap-plug terminals (McMaster-Carr 7835K53)
- Female snap-plug terminals (McMaster-Carr 7835K55), not shown, used on the body side
With this setup, I can loosen the cord grip and remove the locker (with the wiring) if needed. Be sure to stagger the male snap-plug terminals slightly so they can fit through the cord grip opening. Also be sure to RTV to the threads of the cord grip (the threads going into the diff) and it should seal up tight.
The locker engages with a simple dash switch. The 2-wires to the locker are simply power and ground, no relay or anything fancy. It doesn't matter which wire is the power/ground wire, the locker works both ways. My dash switch is connected to an ignition wire, just in case I forget to disengage the locker when I turn off the vehicle, my locker does disengage so my battery doesn't drain.
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I would not have thought of that
Blase
Well-known member
I love this build. Look at it a lot. Any chance you'd share your cad model with me? I'm going to do something similar on my 99 4runner buggy and it would be nice not to start from scratch!
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- #86
DM sent
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- #87
Now onto wheels are tires. For the wheels I bought five 17x9 Raceline Avenger Beadlocks (4.5" BS). I wasn't a fan of the machine finish on a white vehicle, so I painted them with Dupli-color Graphite wheel paint (I used primer, paint, and a 2k clear coat, the finish came out decent).
And I picked up five 40" Mickey Thompson Baja Boss M/Ts (DOT version).
Assembled together (note I had to order Raceline's beadlock ring spacer, one set for each wheel, otherwise the rings would cone inward).
With the wheels/tires now on the 4Runner I was able to pull it out of the garage and give it a much needed wash!
And I picked up five 40" Mickey Thompson Baja Boss M/Ts (DOT version).
Assembled together (note I had to order Raceline's beadlock ring spacer, one set for each wheel, otherwise the rings would cone inward).
With the wheels/tires now on the 4Runner I was able to pull it out of the garage and give it a much needed wash!
- Thread starter
- #88
Without the fenders trimmed, the 4runner really couldn't do anything other than go straight. Nothing an angle grinder, sawzall, mini sledge hammer, and a welder couldn't fix.
First I ripped off the limited fender trim (there was no way I was going to be able to make that work out). Then I started cutting only what was necessary from the body at full suspension flex (I don't have a photo of it, but I used a stencil made from posterboard mounted to the hub to mark out where I needed to cut so I didn't have to keep mounting and dismounting the wheel/tire).
I didn't really like how the rear doorline was turning out, so I cut slightly into the door to blend the lines a little better. I was liking these lines much better.
Then patched it all with 18 gauge sheet metal (this all sucked doing by the way, definitely my least favorite task).
I then finished it all off by painting it with Dupli-color Perfect Match in Natural White (btw I was really impressed with how close the color match was). After painting both the outside and wheel well fenders in white, I then painted the wheel wells with some black rubberized undercoating. To finish it off, I added some thin black fender trim (Cowles Protekto-Trim 39-511-01).
First I ripped off the limited fender trim (there was no way I was going to be able to make that work out). Then I started cutting only what was necessary from the body at full suspension flex (I don't have a photo of it, but I used a stencil made from posterboard mounted to the hub to mark out where I needed to cut so I didn't have to keep mounting and dismounting the wheel/tire).
I didn't really like how the rear doorline was turning out, so I cut slightly into the door to blend the lines a little better. I was liking these lines much better.
Then patched it all with 18 gauge sheet metal (this all sucked doing by the way, definitely my least favorite task).
I then finished it all off by painting it with Dupli-color Perfect Match in Natural White (btw I was really impressed with how close the color match was). After painting both the outside and wheel well fenders in white, I then painted the wheel wells with some black rubberized undercoating. To finish it off, I added some thin black fender trim (Cowles Protekto-Trim 39-511-01).
- Thread starter
- #89
With the custom front frame section I needed to build a custom front bumper. I spent quite a bit of time designing it in SolidWorks, I wanted a low-profile plate style bumper with an excellent approach angle. I also wanted to incorporate some Baja Designs Squadron Pros and S8 lights (part numbers 597815 and 702013, thanks Austin for the group buy!), and a Comeup Seal Slim 9.5rs Winch. This is what I came up with.
All structural pieces are made from 1/4” steel, recovery points are 3/4” and plates are 11 gauge.
All structural pieces are made from 1/4” steel, recovery points are 3/4” and plates are 11 gauge.
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- Thread starter
- #90
I made skids for the radiator, transfer case, and gas tank. The transfer case skid connects between the crossmembers of the front and rear lower links to give it a pretty nice little belly skid. The bolts of each of the skids are standard hex bolts, but they are recessed so rocks don't tear up the heads. The bolts thread into some PEM nuts on tabs that were welded to the cross members.
(please ignore how dirty my undercarriage is)
The rear bumper was originally made by Nguyen Works, it was modified though to fit with the 40s and some 3/4” recovery points were added to it. Here’s everything getting ready for paint.
(please ignore how dirty my undercarriage is)
The rear bumper was originally made by Nguyen Works, it was modified though to fit with the 40s and some 3/4” recovery points were added to it. Here’s everything getting ready for paint.
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