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3rd gen 4runner/1st gen tacoma thread

YotaAtieToo said:
Ya, seems too easy. The only thing is you may loose some caster adjustment since you won't be able to rotate it front or back. But if you move the hub forward a little with the lower arm, you might not have to. I have mine set in the middle currently, so 180* and they would work perfect.

I had an entire frame chop from an SAS that I was going to use to play with. Ended up not wanting to drag it 900 miles in the move.

New replacements aren't too bad really.

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I wonder how hard it would be to reforge that LBJ mount 2" longer and re-weld on into the a-arm? Obviously, gusseting, etc...

EDIT: never mind. After looking at the pictures from the link, I think it'd be easier to slice the lower off inside of the steering stops... plate top/bottom and add new shock mount.
 
Yotota said:
YES. DOOOO EEEEETTTTT

I had the same thought when I did the SPC arms on my old 3rd Gen 4runner. The axles are the only expensive part, everything else is easy.

But there would be a bit of travel decrease... I recall the lower arms being about 16" pivot to pivot, with the coilover pivot mostly centered. A 2" stretch on the inner half of the arm would amount to an approximately 10% travel reduction from my quick CAD sketch.

If at all possible, do the stretch on the outer half of the arm (between the coilover mount and the ball joint). It would be worth the work to get an actual travel increase.
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The shock mount is easy enough to move. Just depends on the goal. Some my just want the benefit of the extra width without messing with higher spring rates. I'm sure some would definitely want the extra travel as well. If running lift coils and 5100s like most, adding some preload may be all it takes. I plan to run the ome coils on the lowest setting on the 5100s for now.

Might be worth fabbing the lower shock mount with multiple locations for testing.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
The shock mount is easy enough to move. Just depends on the goal. Some my just want the benefit of the extra width without messing with higher spring rates. I'm sure some would definitely want the extra travel as well. If running lift coils and 5100s like most, adding some preload may be all it takes. I plan to run the ome coils on the lowest setting on the 5100s for now.

Might be worth fabbing the lower shock mount with multiple locations for testing.
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Oh yeah, shock mount would be easy to move! Derp.

Okay do that. Could allow for some relocation and air bump cans while you're at it.
 
So since we're talking about spending a chunk of change on chromo cv's. What about the "long side" axle inside the diff? I broke one in my 86-95 ifs diff with stock cv's and they're the same 27 spline.

Sucks because these 96-02 shafts have a huge stub shaft, looks damn near 35 spline D60 sized.

No idea why it started doing italics, and it won't change back :laughing:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
So since we're talking about spending a chunk of change on chromo cv's. What about the "long side" axle inside the diff? I broke one in my 86-95 ifs diff with stock cv's and they're the same 27 spline.

Sucks because these 96-02 shafts have a huge stub shaft, looks damn near 35 spline D60 sized.

No idea why it started doing italics, and it won't change back :laughing:
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Focus on the a-arms and geometry... worry about your custom dana-110SL center section later. :flipoff2:
 
rockota said:
Focus on the a-arms and geometry... worry about your custom dana-110SL center section later. :flipoff2:
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It just seems silly to spend $1600 on chromo cv's only to move the weak link to a super hard part to replace. At least the 86-95 rcv's replaced everything from hub to hub.

Then there is the the 8" clamshell swap like Brian at FROR did, but that won't work with these cv's, so what's the point there :laughing:
 
The shaft inside that tube rarely breaks, I wouldn't worry about it. The ring gears seem to blow up before that shaft does.

Find a spare diff tube with the shaft inside and just swap that whole assembly if you break the shaft, easy peasy. The one and only CV I broke was when I snapped the splined end off in that tube. It was a few hours of trying to get the broke stub out of there, if I had a spare tube it would have been 30mins.
 
Slander said:
The shaft inside that tube rarely breaks, I wouldn't worry about it. The ring gears seem to blow up before that shaft does.

Find a spare diff tube with the shaft inside and just swap that whole assembly if you break the shaft, easy peasy. The one and only CV I broke was when I snapped the splined end off in that tube. It was a few hours of trying to get the broke stub out of there, if I had a spare tube it would have been 30mins.
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Thats what I thought with my 86-95 diff, untill I broke it on 28s :laughing:

It broke in the diff, and was stuck pretty good. I'm not too worried about it, but just hate to spend $1600 on chromo shafts and have no way to upgrade the intermediate shafts.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Thats what I thought with my 86-95 diff, untill I broke it on 28s :laughing:

It broke in the diff, and was stuck pretty good. I'm not too worried about it, but just hate to spend $1600 on chromo shafts and have no way to upgrade the intermediate shafts.
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Well this isn't an 86-95:flipoff2:
 
Slander said:
Sounds like something an SAS can fix!:flipoff2:
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Thats the Pussies way out :flipoff2:

0007615_f9-fabricated-independent-9-inch-center-section.jpeg
 
I did some searching...

Dirt King, Camburg, Solo, and of course Total Chaos all sell shafts for $650-750. I bet if you had custom chromoly shafts made they would cost about the same from a job shop.

Then I found this, it's a bit hack but we're talking about hack anyway... :flipoff2:

Custom long travel. CV axles? - YotaTech Forums

The Fab Shop - Custom long travel. CV axles? - I have someone here locally that is going to either extend my stock control arms by aprox. 3in. on each side or we will make tube ones from scratch using my stock ones as a guide for ball joint angles (similar to rail A arms) havnt decided which...
www.yotatech.com

1313910-custom-long-travel-cv-axles-d2_zps3447a528.jpg


1313910-custom-long-travel-cv-axles-d1_zps10397f1e.jpg
 
Yotota said:
I did some searching...

Dirt King, Camburg, Solo, and of course Total Chaos all sell shafts for $650-750. I bet if you had custom chromoly shafts made they would cost about the same from a job shop.
Click to expand...

Yes, I found those. Doesn't make sense to spend $700 and still have stock joints, when you can go full chromo for $1500.

They wouldn't need to be chromo, serves no purpose with stock joints. I don't see how they would be more expensive than the double 35 spline shafts they sell, but maybe being a non common spline ups cost. Moser will do full custom flanged full float for $450 a pair. Again, I'd think these would be cheaper, but I don't know for sure.

Yotota said:
Then I found this, it's a bit hack but we're talking about hack anyway... :flipoff2:

Custom long travel. CV axles? - YotaTech Forums

The Fab Shop - Custom long travel. CV axles? - I have someone here locally that is going to either extend my stock control arms by aprox. 3in. on each side or we will make tube ones from scratch using my stock ones as a guide for ball joint angles (similar to rail A arms) havnt decided which...
www.yotatech.com
Click to expand...

I had thought about that also. I've heard of guys doing it in cars while doing engine swaps with good luck. Honestly, with stock cv's, you'd probably be fine, especially with an open diff.

Maybe that's the route I'll go to start with. Not like cv's are expensive.
 
Well I almost ate dick on my screaming deal used arb :homer: got it for $300 and knew it was a little rusty, but figured it would be fine. Ecgs said it will be about $600 to rebuild and the spider gears are kinda rough. I paid $25 to ship it to them, and guess how much a new one is? $920 :homer::homer::homer:

I have had almost no success buying used diff shit, every single one had wound up breaking or being junk.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Well I almost ate dick on my screaming deal used arb :homer: got it for $300 and knew it was a little rusty, but figured it would be fine. Ecgs said it will be about $600 to rebuild and the spider gears are kinda rough. I paid $25 to ship it to them, and guess how much a new one is? $920 :homer::homer::homer:

I have had almost no success buying used diff shit, every single one had wound up breaking or being junk.
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A-arms done yet?
 
Some how my diffs got separated, rear arrived today, so since it's 2wd no matter what I figured I'd drop it in.

I was curious how close the speedo would be with 35s and 5.29s. On my test drive, it was exactly the same ~6 mph off at 60. I'm literally thinking these mother fuckers sent me the wrong diff :mad3:

So I get home, do the old jack and spin the tire, count the driveshaft trick. 5.3 turns.....

I'm sure most of you are ahead of me, but about then I started questioning where these go the speedo signal from..... the fucking wheel sensors, not the tcase like the older junk :laughing:

:homer::homer::homer::homer::lmao:

So I didn't even really get a feel for the gearing because I was all pissed off :laughing: it's still a turd, but at least I don't feel like I'm destroying my trans.

Also put the 891 coils in and holy shit they are almost 3" taller than some stock replacement moog coils and 1.5" spacers. Hopefully they settle a little because I'm not into the stink bug shit.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Some how my diffs got separated, rear arrived today, so since it's 2wd no matter what I figured I'd drop it in.

I was curious how close the speedo would be with 35s and 5.29s. On my test drive, it was exactly the same ~6 mph off at 60. I'm literally thinking these mother fuckers sent me the wrong diff :mad3:

So I get home, do the old jack and spin the tire, count the driveshaft trick. 5.3 turns.....

I'm sure most of you are ahead of me, but about then I started questioning where these go the speedo signal from..... the fucking wheel sensors, not the tcase like the older junk :laughing:

:homer::homer::homer::homer::lmao:

So I didn't even really get a feel for the gearing because I was all pissed off :laughing: it's still a turd, but at least I don't feel like I'm destroying my trans.

Also put the 891 coils in and holy shit they are almost 3" taller than some stock replacement moog coils and 1.5" spacers. Hopefully they settle a little because I'm not into the stink bug shit.
Click to expand...

shouldn't it be from the rear of the tcase? Pick up one of the aus made correction kits? Have one on my tacoma and it's been awesome.

edit: link for Yellr. Official home page of the Yellow Box Speedo Recalibrator
 
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YotaAtieToo said:
Guess I'm not the only retard :flipoff2:

Apparently tacoma is, but 4runner has individual wheel sensors. Hence the gearing not effecting the speedo at all, only the tires.
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that explains the dang ABS crap...

Maybe Dakota Digital? they have a solution that goes in teh dash, IIRC.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Guess I'm not the only retard :flipoff2:

Apparently tacoma is, but 4runner has individual wheel sensors. Hence the gearing not effecting the speedo at all, only the tires.
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Another retard here. :flipoff2:

That's fawking funny, on my old 3rd Gen I was always a bit baffled by the speedo readout and when it changed/didn't change over all my different tire and diff combinations.

Is the odometer and trip meter based on data from the wheel speed sensors as well?
 
Yotota said:
Another retard here. :flipoff2:

That's fawking funny, on my old 3rd Gen I was always a bit baffled by the speedo readout and when it changed/didn't change over all my different tire and diff combinations.

Is the odometer and trip meter based on data from the wheel speed sensors as well?
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Good question. Mine is a 96, so it has the mechanical odo. I wonder if the odo is off the tcase?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Good question. Mine is a 96, so it has the mechanical odo. I wonder if the odo is off the tcase?
Click to expand...

Yeah, mine was a 98 which also had the mechanical ODO/Trip.

There is a VSS Vehicle Speed Sensor on the transmission itself but it feeds into the ECU so who knows how the readouts are determined...
 
I don't think I've ever cussed Toyota engineering as much as I have removing this stupid front dip that's wedged in between every goddamn component in the front end of the vehicle:mad3:

I also noticed that the new diff has a bushing on the driver side that the CV rides on. I was kinda pissed and emailed ecgs about it. Then Google it, and guys are saying the bushing is better? :confused:

Looks used to me :homer:

20220310_145401.jpg
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