rockota
white collar hillbilly
- Joined
- May 28, 2020
- Member Number
- 1642
- Messages
- 3,959
+2" IFS first....Well shit, now I have almost no excuse not to put a doubler in my 96
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Dragrcr65
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2022
- Member Number
- 5587
- Messages
- 29
Hmm, I must be doing it wrong, I’m using 10” down front and 12 rear 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️ My 16s hang and bump all the time 😂
2x3 .188 wall Rec tube for the frame sections
That frame chop/splice is super clean! I'm nearly ready to do the same to my 3rd gen, though I notice the OEM frame is ~ 2-3/4" wide whereas the rectangular tube is 2" wide. I plan to line up 2x3 rectangular tubing at an angle similar to the way you did, butt joint weld the top/outside/bottom, then fishplate the outside (maybe the bottom as well), but that leaves a gap on the inside frame rail transition. What did you do on the inside of the frame rail to join it to the OEM frame? Pictures are appreciated if it's not too much trouble.
I'll get some pics when I get home, but I cut pieces out of the upper and lower parts of the frame (pie cuts) then bent the inner frame section to match the width of the new rec tube.
Here’s some pics I have right now, I don’t really have any of the inner part of the frame. I capped both ends of the frame with angle then welded the new frame section to those, then added the inner/ outer fish plates.
I had it laying around, figured why not. I originally wanted to use a super duty steering box, but I couldn’t get it to fit without serious work.
I think there could be, but the frame isn’t really that hard to work with compared to the previous gen IFS frame. There’s quite a bit more clearance on this platform. But having a compete fabricated front frame section would be sweet.
kerleyfries
Member
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2022
- Member Number
- 5780
- Messages
- 23
Do you have pics of how you did the crossmember? I'm SAS'ing my 98 right now with an ecobox and looking for ideas on the crossmember to dodge the driveshaft.
I do not, haven't touched this pile since I put the duals in lol. I have a couple ideas for the crossmember, which I'm hoping to tackle this weekend. I'll try and update this if I can get it done.
kerleyfries
Member
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2022
- Member Number
- 5780
- Messages
- 23
Sounds good. I'm at the point of tacking in link mounts to cycle the front end, then I'll get to the crossmember in the next few weeks.
I ran into a couple issues when I installed mine:
1 - There is a brass gear, I believe its the 2WD/4WD synchro, that somehow got jammed on my case during install and made it impossible to shift, so make sure all the brass gears and moving freely.
2 - When mating to the transmission, the two top nuts are very difficult to get to and tighten because of the trans tunnel. Before installing the crossmember / transmission mount back on, support the transfer case with a floor jack and have it all hang pretty low, its much easier to get to all the nuts/bolts that way when mating to the transmission. For those top two nuts through, I found a set of 3/8" drive crowfoot open end wrenches at AutoZone that worked really well to get those top two nuts tight.
good to know, thanks for the tips. My motor is raised like 2" so I might need to drop it down to get to those bolts, or just cut the trans tunnel out
Sorry, I haven't been here for a while. Team Jake nailed it. I didn't have any issues, everything went together fine. Those upper fasteners can def be an issue, but dropping the case down a little helps. Cutting the trans tunnel is the best way for sure, especially if you plan on clocking the case more than 10* and to clear the shifter linkages if using the triple shifters.