Build 1988 Samurai Turned Buggy

I mean mound the ram in the right place for it.

Is it just the Pic or are your tierods going to be angled either up or down?
They’ll be slightly angled. I’m thinking about running the bolts underneath the steering arm. Not sure how many degrees it will be angled.

Just going to run misalignment spacers.

Honestly I should have just built my own mounting system from scratch instead of trying to make this TG one work.
 
They’ll be slightly angled. I’m thinking about running the bolts underneath the steering arm. Not sure how many degrees it will be angled.

Just going to run misalignment spacers.

Honestly I should have just built my own mounting system from scratch instead of trying to make this TG one work.

Then start over, do it right.
 
Then start over, do it right.

I wouldn’t say “right,” just slightly better. Problem is I’ll be $150 into materials for something that will ultimately do the same thing.

Any idea what maximum angle is for a tie rod on a ram? Obviously level is better, which I can do by moving this down a smidge.
 
I wouldn’t say “right,” just slightly better. Problem is I’ll be $150 into materials for something that will ultimately do the same thing.

Any idea what maximum angle is for a tie rod on a ram? Obviously level is better, which I can do by moving this down a smidge.

The problem with angled is it pits a side load on the ram. Those rods can bend somewhat easy.

It's best to have them level.
 
Pretty much completed the front ram, welded weld nuts to my body tabs, got the rear winch solenoid mounted, and did some other odds and ends. Snapped some pics, trying to get insurance on this.

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Do you guys think these two items would be sufficient for future upgrades of “tons and 40’s?” My research is saying it should be fine for my crawling application. But want to confirm. I have a high flow TG pump.

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Yes, but you can get the same thing for way way less.

Example

Derale Cooling Products 13249 Derale Heat Sink Fluid Coolers | Summit Racing


 
Yes, but you can get the same thing for way way less.

Example

Derale Cooling Products 13249 Derale Heat Sink Fluid Coolers | Summit Racing



I was just using the standard in the off road world. Should’ve known. :laughing:

I found a Derale 12” dual pass that dumps out on the same end, which is what I need.

Still going to run the off road PSC reservoir. The filter being with the resi makes packaging so much easier. Kind of fighting for space up front as is.
 
Also, got my gussets this week from Wuz-A-zuk

Dude hooked me up by sending him all of my odd cardboard templates. Stuff came back way nicer than my buggy deserves! I’m building a Dollar General buggy and he sent me gussets from Target. :flipoff2::laughing: It’s a shame I have to hammer some of these to fit, as I knew they would need slight bends added by me later.

Thanks, Wuz! :smokin:

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I was just using the standard in the off road world. Should’ve known. :laughing:

I found a Derale 12” dual pass that dumps out on the same end, which is what I need.

Still going to run the off road PSC reservoir. The filter being with the resi makes packaging so much easier. Kind of fighting for space up front as is.

The "filter" is a nice addition. Although I think it's just a screen, not sure that it's worth the extra ~$200 + the fittings you need, but that's up to you. I've never had a filter in my systems. If I were running a fancy radial dynamics pump I'd be more inclined to run a filter. But for $300 I can buy a spare pump and have money left over :laughing:
 
The "filter" is a nice addition. Although I think it's just a screen, not sure that it's worth the extra ~$200 + the fittings you need, but that's up to you. I've never had a filter in my systems. If I were running a fancy radial dynamics pump I'd be more inclined to run a filter. But for $300 I can buy a spare pump and have money left over :laughing:

I think it’s more than a screen. My Kioti doesn’t run a filter on it’s full hydro either, but it does have a hood and I’m not taxing it like a buggy will.

From the product description:

“An internal 35 micron filter cartridge virtually eliminates fluid cavitation which is the leading cause of excessive pump noise and fluid overheating and helps prevent loss of pressure in the system and catastrophic damage to the pump.”
 
I think it’s more than a screen. My Kioti doesn’t run a filter on it’s full hydro either, but it does have a hood and I’m not taxing it like a buggy will.

Wtf does hood have to do with it? :flipoff2:

From the product description:

“An internal 35 micron filter cartridge virtually eliminates fluid cavitation which is the leading cause of excessive pump noise and fluid overheating and helps prevent loss of pressure in the system and catastrophic damage to the pump.”

Do whatever you want, but most psc stuff is super over priced for what it is. Personally I'm not paying $300 for a can with a piece of screen folded over the outlet.

If you want a filter, get one with an actual spin off filter.

Fwiw, my last full hydro system was around 15+ years old and still working fine on its 3rd rig when it burnt in the fire. No filter, just made sure I didn't dump dirt in it when the cap was open.
 
Also, got my gussets this week from Wuz-A-zuk

Dude hooked me up by sending him all of my odd cardboard templates. Stuff came back way nicer than my buggy deserves! I’m building a Dollar General buggy and he sent me gussets from Target. :flipoff2::laughing: It’s a shame I have to hammer some of these to fit, as I knew they would need slight bends added by me later.

Thanks, Wuz! :smokin:

Glad I could help. As always anything I could do just let me know.

Looking good. Almost done! :flipoff2:
 
I think it’s more than a screen. My Kioti doesn’t run a filter on it’s full hydro either, but it does have a hood and I’m not taxing it like a buggy will.

From the product description:

“An internal 35 micron filter cartridge virtually eliminates fluid cavitation which is the leading cause of excessive pump noise and fluid overheating and helps prevent loss of pressure in the system and catastrophic damage to the pump.”
It has an actual filter that is serviceable. I have the same resi in my current beater.

I have a RD resi and Earls external filter assembly for the new one. Howe makes a solid inline cooler like the PSC one you linked for around the same $$.

Howe Performance Large Power Steering Oil Cooler 3" Dia. 11-1/2" Long Uses AN -12 ORB Inlet/Outet - Kartek Off-Road

I'll be running that one this next go round.
 
Yes, but you can get the same thing for way way less.

Example

Derale Cooling Products 13249 Derale Heat Sink Fluid Coolers | Summit Racing



That PSC reservoir he posed has a filter in the bottom of it.
 
It has an actual filter that is serviceable. I have the same resi in my current beater.

I have a RD resi and Earls external filter assembly for the new one. Howe makes a solid inline cooler like the PSC one you linked for around the same $$.

Howe Performance Large Power Steering Oil Cooler 3" Dia. 11-1/2" Long Uses AN -12 ORB Inlet/Outet - Kartek Off-Road

I'll be running that one this next go round.

I ordered up the PSC resi last night.

Also ordered a Derale 17” like Jeff posted. I’ve ran Derale coolers on my 4Runner and Tahoe for years. Should be fine. I went 17” for ease of mounting. It should keep this system plenty cool under the floor of the buggy.
 
So, not wanting to tear apart this ram and add stops, and not really happy with using the Fail Gear mounting tube, I re-did my ram today.

I like this a lot more, it uses all 8” of throw and won’t capture mud.

Burned up my M18, so as soon as I replace it I’ll add a tube in front of the aluminum brackets as a rock guard.

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Consider some plate in between the legs for that ram mount. All the force is left to right, and not in the direction those legs are supported currently. :cool:cool
 
Your the only person I've ever seen find TDC on a front axle. :lmao:

It’s how I lined everything up. TDC was easier than writing CENTER. :flipoff2:
:homer:

I have since learned that Byro’s “eyecrometer” method is way more accurate than pulling measurements on these things. I am used to building with straight stuff. Nothing straight or even in the automotive world. There’s curves and differences everywhere.
 
It’s how I lined everything up. TDC was easier than writing CENTER. :flipoff2:
:homer:

I have since learned that Byro’s “eyecrometer” method is way more accurate than pulling measurements on these things. I am used to building with straight stuff. Nothing straight or even in the automotive world. There’s curves and differences everywhere.

More often than not the eye don’t lie.
 
Thoughts on this…

Milwaukee packout mount level with the rear/back tube, or build out a lower mount and create a “bed” in the rear if the buggy. The bed would be open, no sides. It would serve to only mount the pack out lower. It would also be in my way of accessing the upper links and rear driveshaft more easily.

I don’t even know how many tools I’ll carry with this. I’ve got standards, metrics, allens, all types of different bolts and nuts on this thing. It might end up just being a cooler with a mini sledge and 2 crescent wrenches. :laughing:

I like the idea of mounting it flush as I like the simple look of the rear. But also realize it affects COG.

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