Build 1988 Samurai Turned Buggy

AR400-600 is the way. Weld it straight to the chassis for strength and simplicity, just don't forget to cut drain holes so you can service your fluids easily. 3/16" AR will be plenty for your light buggy. If you're worried about weight, get 1/8" AR and weld some mild steel reinforcement to the back. Weight on the very bottom of the chassis is the best spung weight you can have.
 
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'84 Bronco II said:
AR400-600 is the way. Weld it straight to the chassis for strength and simplicity, just don't forget to cut drain hole so you can service your fluids easily. 3/16" AR will be plenty for your light buggy. If you're worried about weight, get 1/8" AP and weld some mild steel reinforcement to the back. Weight on the very bottom of the chassis is the best spung weight you can have.
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As much as I want to weld it, I don’t think I’ll be able to access my lower t-case mount bolts.
 
i would want bolt in myself. now yotatie has a good idea make once section bolt in and weld the rest. my reson for bolt in is to get all the mud and bull**** out of the skid plate from time to time. sure there are drain holes but thats not enough.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
i would want bolt in myself. now yotatie has a good idea make once section bolt in and weld the rest. my reson for bolt in is to get all the mud and bull**** out of the skid plate from time to time. sure there are drain holes but thats not enough.
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That’s a good point, too. East coast and mid west definitely can pack up some mud.
 
FleshEater said:
As much as I want to weld it, I don’t think I’ll be able to access my lower t-case mount bolts.
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Thats what swivels, 3' extensions and impacts are for :flipoff2:

If you want to bolt it on, the way Chappy suggested is pretty good. I also saw a good idea from David Sirota (unklhuck on Instagram) where he cut holes in the AR plate around where he bolts his skid on and welded small pucks of mild steel into the AR plate so he could countersink his bolts,
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Maybe run 2 pieces of flatbar running front to back welded to those tcase tubes with a few nutserts, or just nuts welded on the back.
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game changer from josh at goat built. he showed me these and omg.....
these thing are meant to be welded. i love these things. best thing since sliced bread...... and i am under selling them :smokin::smokin::smokin:
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Opiebennett said:
I'm going to disagree with Jeff, I think unsupported UHMW is a poor choice, I also think while a welded AR plate provides some shear, the tube he added in belly are well worth the weight penalty.

Bolt on AR if you can find it and stomach the cost, or 3/16 or 1/4" mild steel if you have to. The steel will be plenty slippery and won't groove up or peel off.

I think my buggy belly is like 2'x3', and add an extra square for the oil pan skid.

7 sq ft at 10.2 lbs per square is 71.4lbs for 1/4" plate
7sq ft at 7.65 lbs per square is 53-1/2lbs for 3/16 plate.
7 sq ft at ~4lbs per square for 1/8" AL and UHMW is ~30 Lbs, but need more fasteners.

My 2017 buggy is on its original 3/16 mild steel bolted belly skid. It's not flat anymore when it's not bolted to the car, but comes of and goes back on just fine.

If sourcing material is tough, build something and go wheeling. can always buy more exotic light weight things later if 40lbs is the difference you need.
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I called my steel supplier and asked about AR500 3/16”. If they can’t get it, might have to just go with 1/4” mild steel.

Mild steel will probably last a lifetime. AR500 is overkill, but saves weight.

EDIT: Well, $1,040 and change for AR400. I’ll be using mild steel. :shaking:
 
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Dude you don't need 1/4" steel plate.

How about this.

Make the center steel skid I mentioned, make it bolt on to tie the link and tcase mounts together. Personally I'd be really happy with 1/8" steel.

Then add your full uhmw belly under that?
 
where can you even buy uhmw? is it sold local in alot of towns? also i have heard about something they line dump truck beds with that even better . just pure speculation no proof
 
chaplinfj60 said:
where can you even buy uhmw? is it sold local in alot of towns? also i have heard about something they line dump truck beds with that even better . just pure speculation no proof
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I can buy it local, but it’s actually way more than mild steel.

It’s like anything that’s light and strong is triple the price.
 
Okay, going with 3/16” mild steel, and I’m going to heat it and beat it to form it around the tube. The mounts will be on the inside of the rocker tube. This will allow my UHMW sides to overlap the 3/16” belly and my aluminum door panels.

The comment previously made me rethink 3/16”. It’s light, and will get beat to hell, but if it works it works.
 
Dropped the Koyo races to run V6 carrier bearings on my 4 cyl. Grizzly and the knuckles/arms off at the machine shop yesterday. He text me today that everything is done.

He turned down the races to a press fit and added chamfer to mate to the Grizzly.

$220. Not bad.
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Been working on so many things this past week.

While waiting on parts to show up, I took the LP ring gear and pinion and welded up another open carrier to use as a trail back up for the rear third member.

Then I got all the parts in to re-gear my high pinion third. I hate re-gearing diffs, I can never read the patterns well so I bug Byro non stop. :laughing::homer:

This FJ80 stuff is WAY more refined than any of the old pickup stuff I’ve worked on, so that was nice.

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After that I built out my knuckles again, with the brakes I got off Byro’s buddy (2017 4Runner caliper/rotor combo and FROR caliper bracket).

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Lastly I started on my full hydro mount. This is crude, but all I’m working with is an angle grinder. :flipoff2: Also, before anyone says anything, the ends of the hydro skid will be gusseted later on. I also need to get weld nuts and run allen key bolts down through instead. These clamps are gayer than aids.

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Mike Honcho said:
Looks good to me. Should be plenty strong for your golf cart buggy :flipoff2:

I would build a removable bridge on the top.

Mine
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My winch will be mounted on the axle. Above and behind it the ram.

YotaAtieToo said:
What throw is your ram? You plan to use the inner or outter holes in those arms?
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8”. The holes closest to the axle put me right in line with my ram when fully turned out. Just going to have little tie rods.
 
FleshEater said:
My winch will be mounted on the axle. Above and behind it the ram.



8”. The holes closest to the axle put me right in line with my ram when fully turned out. Just going to have little tie rods.
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Why not put it further out and take advantage of the throw you have available?
 
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