Build 1978 F150 1-tons and 40s

Well that makes me feel a lot better about my plans. I do intend to run a doubler (haven't decided which) and a 6R80 is in my future whether it's behind the 400 or a modern engine. That will most likely be saved for the build on the smog exempt frame so I can take all the lessons learned here and apply them to a clean slate.
 
I'm quite happy with the C6/203/205/5.13 on 42s, it's just the lack of OD. I drive it to work once a month, and it'll cruise along at 75 just fine, but it's wound pretty tight at that speed.
Honestly, if I stay C6 long term in going to do the wide ratio kit because id love it to be even lower in 1st. If it wasn't a rock crawler then I'd prob do the wide ratio kit and 4.10s because it's got plenty of torque, but 5.13s plus 4:1 in the case is awesome off-road. Of course, a 6R80 would be even better, and would probably be a tire shredder with 4.88s after it :smokin:
 
rattle_snake said:
I run 4.10s on 40s and they are a good balance for how I use my truck, even when I ran the C6.
Click to expand...
I do have to wonder if the torque your built 460 puts out is what made it possible to run 4.10s with a C6. My stock 400 with just an RV cam is only rated for something like 200 HP/300 TQ and that's probably generous.

Having to run at 3000 RPMs to keep it at 70-75 is a huge reason I want to switch to exhaust manifolds. This thing is ridiculously loud with the janky old Flowmasters and long tube headers. Would like to do exhaust manifolds, 2 into 1 Magnaflow like I'm running on the Bronco.
 
Not an auto, but long time ago, i ran 40's and 44's with 4.10's on the street in a 79 f250 with a 4 speed behind a warm 460, it started off without excessive clutch slip in 2nd (not granny first) and generally drove well on the highway. Of course it was happier when i put in 5.13's. We all know a slush box is different animal, and you have tq. conv. stall thrown in the mix..
 
Last edited:
holdmypocket said:
I do have to wonder if the torque your built 460 puts out is what made it possible to run 4.10s with a C6. My stock 400 with just an RV cam is only rated for something like 200 HP/300 TQ and that's probably generous.

Having to run at 3000 RPMs to keep it at 70-75 is a huge reason I want to switch to exhaust manifolds. This thing is ridiculously loud with the janky old Flowmasters and long tube headers. Would like to do exhaust manifolds, 2 into 1 Magnaflow like I'm running on the Bronco.
Click to expand...
yes I think so. and a slightly higher stall converter. Motor is always in the powerband. Weight is a killer too.

I tried a few exhaust setups but it was the OD trans that really made a difference in noise level. 75 for me is 1800 rpm. 100 is 2500.
 
Little update on the iBooster install:

Stock brake booster bracket

IMG_5690.jpg


Booster rod retained to the lever arm for the brake pedal assembly by a 3/8" pin

IMG_5689.jpg


iBooster rod and clevis

IMG_5693.jpg


Clevis removed, leaves m8x1.25 thread

IMG_5694.jpg


Stock booster rod end center is at 3 and 5/8"

IMG_5698.jpg


iBooster with clevis removed is 3 and 1/4" to the bottom of the threads or 3 and 5/8" to the end
IMG_5699.jpg


Found this female-threaded (m8x1.25mm) clevis with a eyelet that I had to drill out to 3/8" on Amazon

IMG_5711.jpg


Made some 3/4" spacers out of 1" tube for mock-up... I have 3/4" aluminum with a 5/16" ID on the way. It's close but the threads fully engage. I also have some flange nuts to secure this better. If it didn't work I would space the bracket off the firewall just a bit and make the spacers shorter which make a little more space behind the arm. It seems like everything is just right though.

IMG_5721.jpg

With the Accord MC mocked up. Hood closes and doesn't obstruct anything.

IMG_5724.jpg
 
Wrapped up the iBooster install today, tested it up and down the driveway and I’m blown away.

Stuck my foot on the brake pedal, nice and hard around or before half-travel. Turned the key, heard the sound of an electric motor actuating and the pedal suddenly moved with little effort.


I was confused and thought something can’t be right, made sure I had wheel-chocks set up a half-foot away from the tires, hopped back in and put it in reverse and the truck didn’t budge like it used to with vacuum brakes (again thought it wasn’t going into gear or something) went ahead and let the brakes go and it moved along.

Stuck it in drive and tested the brakes and was just super excited by how well they worked.

Tomorrow I’ll finish welding up a bunch of **** and should be able to take it around the block for a proper test drive.
 
Finished welding the track bar mounts, tightened all the bolts, and took it for a drive around the neighborhood. Had it up to 30 mph and did great. Still need to weld shock mounts on the rear axle and get new shocks. Some fender rubbing but haven't investigated that yet. I have to clean-up some wiring that I rushed through just to get the iBooster installed, and maybe bleed the brakes again. There's quite a bit of travel in the brake pedal and I'd like to see if I can lessen that some but it stops great.

Once I button all this stuff up and feel good about driving it on the road I'll probably throw the Super Duty take-off wheels/tires I bought on Marketplace and take this thing in to get smogged so I can keep it registered in CA for another two years before my (likely) move to Charlotte, NC in the next few months (a lot of life happening lately). I don't imagine it wouldn't pass a state safety inspection since everything is in good working order (except I haven't installed new emergency brake lines yet) but would be nice to have one less thing to worry about.

If I can swing it $$$-wise I'll probably get just the rear re-geared to 4:88's and wire up the rear locker sooner than later. The front will have to wait because I need to install exhaust manifolds and a whole new exhaust to fit a front driveshaft (which I also need to order). I'm also planning on an e-locker in the front so even more $$$.

I didn't film the initial drive so I made a cheesy clip going around my cul-de-sac:


When the fender started to rub I decided to turn wider :homer:
 
Last edited:
Loves me a Cleveland and chamber mufflers. I tried Spintechs on mine and idle is kinda meh like a glass pack but holy wood over 3,000 rpm. Damn does it sound it good!

I’m assuming the axles are 3.73? My Superduty had 4.55 or 4.88 to correct the 38s so I know where you’re coming from with 40s

4.10 & 37s is almost corrected for my 78. Not sure if 4.56 for correction or 4.88 for a little more pep will be worth it- I’d rather invest in the AOD gearsets- speaking for myself, not your build.
 
WiscoF100 said:
Loves me a Cleveland and chamber mufflers. I tried Spintechs on mine and idle is kinda meh like a glass pack but holy wood over 3,000 rpm. Damn does it sound it good!

I’m assuming the axles are 3.73? My Superduty had 4.55 or 4.88 to correct the 38s so I know where you’re coming from with 40s

4.10 & 37s is almost corrected for my 78. Not sure if 4.56 for correction or 4.88 for a little more pep will be worth it- I’d rather invest in the AOD gearsets- speaking for myself, not your build.
Click to expand...
Yep 3.73s, you can really tell as I backup the driveway!
 
Not much to report, still basking in the light of having the major work wrapped up. Yesterday I started on the emergency brake cables (using a universal kit from Amazon) but need to get a few nuts from Home Depot to adapt it to the stock tensioner on the truck.

Went to throw the bumpers back on and forgot the bolts on the rear bumper were so seized that I cut the bumper off. I have new mounts but need to finish cutting the old ones off. Did manage to get the jack point I welded to the front cut off and put the front bumper on.

IMG_5821.jpeg

IMG_5822.jpeg

My focus now is getting it smogged; found all my vacuum lines and the diagram I drew up, will get that all set up this week and get it smogged asap. Will have to throw the stock super duty take off wheels/tires on for that since I haven’t regeared yet.
 
I want to do some shackle mounts like that on the front of my truck. Got anymore pics of them?

Truck is looking good.
 
WiscoF100 said:
Are you talking about replacing your rear bumper brackets?
Click to expand...
Yeah, I bough the stock style brackets off Amazon since I cut the old ones to remove the rear bumper.

Loki89t said:
I want to do some shackle mounts like that on the front of my truck. Got anymore pics of them?

Truck is looking good.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I threw them on just before a trip and looking back I should have done a better job prepping the weld area. The frame isn't very flat there either. Will be re-doing when I have to worry about mounting a winch.

IMG_0828.jpg
IMG_0834.jpg
IMG_0833.jpg
IMG_0832.jpg
66761819599__D51C5695-011B-49F4-8A0A-E2893E9BB6EE.jpg
 
This is what I bought: Amazon.com

It doesn't look at all like the picture. It looks just like what I pulled off my truck (I threw away the other half but you can see what I mean by what's left of it on the bumper):

IMG_5829.jpg
IMG_5828.jpg
IMG_5830.jpg
IMG_5831.jpg
 
- Finished re-checking bolts and torquing them.

- Finished welding the upper-links on the radius arms, and the frame mounts. Welding under the truck is a lot more difficult to do pretty than on the bench!

- Installing the universal e-brake kit for the axles resulted in me having to replace the cable up front as well. Waiting for that to arrive.

- Bilstein shocks for the rear are on back order from Wildhorses 4x4. I used the stock shock mounts on the frame, welded some new ones at centerline on the front of the rear axle. This resulted in equal travel front and rear unfortunately. I’ll have to address this in the future when I have more time.

- On a test drive today I heard a sound and smelled burnt brake pads. Rear passenger caliper seems stuck. I guess that’s what I get for buying a cheap Amazon brand (A-Premium was the name). Apparently this is common so I made sure to order a Motorcraft replacement.

- Going to start installing the smog equipment while I wait for the shocks and calipers.

Just barely too tall for the garage:

IMG_5856.jpeg
 
I have to use a 2” ratchet strap around the front axle to get mine in and out of the garage. 85” roof height.

Discovered my front right caliper locked the other day. Gonna keep an eye on that. It’s a “new” aftermarket but in its defense it sat outside unprotected.

What’s with this other cab I see……..
 
Can you move your garage door open limit switch to get the door to open up higher?

Mine on 40s fits in my garage. Door is 84" truck is 83".
 
WiscoF100 said:
I have to use a 2” ratchet strap around the front axle to get mine in and out of the garage. 85” roof height.

Discovered my front right caliper locked the other day. Gonna keep an eye on that. It’s a “new” aftermarket but in its defense it sat outside unprotected.

What’s with this other cab I see……..
Click to expand...
Good idea, will have to go pick up a strap and do the same. The driveway was heat-soaked, not fun to weld on my back under the truck on a 90 degree day.

All of my calipers were bought on Amazon by the same brand "A-Premium". When I did a search I found calipers locking up is super common and that buying a quality remanufactured unit or direct from Ford is important. The one Ford caliper costs $142 before core return, I got two for that price from A-Premium and look what happened. Now I'm worried I have three other calipers that are ticking time-bombs.

The other cab has a frame to go with it sitting on the side of the house. It's a 74 F250 2wd I tore apart, I bought it because living in CA '75 and older vehicles are smog-exempt. Even though I'm likely moving to NC, my plan was/is to start building up that frame and do the best job to my ability. I honestly slapped the '78 together so being able to enjoy it while I start the "new" build will allow me to take my time to do it right and think things out. I'd also like to put a modern drivetrain in it, coil overs, and 4 link the rear. That cab is also in much better shape as it only needs new floors.
 
rattle_snake said:
Can you move your garage door open limit switch to get the door to open up higher?

Mine on 40s fits in my garage. Door is 84" truck is 83".
Click to expand...
It's already flush with the opening. Funny, this garage is also 84" my truck measures about 85". I'm moving out of here by the end of the year, hopefully into a house I own, so we'll see what accommodations I can come up with to cater to this stuff.
 
Update:

Bilstein shocks are still on a nation-wide backorder. Wildhorses 4x4 says they may not ship until November. Running a set of short Bilstein shocks for test-driving in the rear (fronts are fine). I get like 1-2" of down-travel with these things but it seems to work around the neighborhood for now.

Installed some stock Super Duty wheels and tires I bought off of FB Market Place since I haven't done the axle gears yet and I'll probably need to have these on the truck when I ship it across the country.

SMOG stuff is all set and ready to go.


Looking for insight/ideas/etc:

I took the truck to fill the tank with gas and while I was driving back I noticed I was going about 45 MPH and the front end felt a bit loose (like there was more play than I expect). I turned the wheel back and forth once just a bit and suddenly experienced the worst death-wobble I've ever encountered.

Took it easy going home but when I inspected the drag link and track bar which are both adjustable I was able to adjust them just by twisting the link. I did tighten these before but now I'm wondering if I need to Loctite them or throw a tack weld on there. I know I read about this happening in another thread somewhere but I thought I could get away with a little cruising around the neighborhood before I had to worry about that.

On another note, I did replace the seized caliper on the rear passenger side and noticed the parking brake drum seems to drag even though I adjusted it all the way down. When I slapped this thing together I trimmed the backing plate as much as possible. When I had the rotor off I did my best to make sure it was clear of everything but it's hard to tell, could be pushing on the drum shoes.

Anyway, the questions are:

1. Is it most likely just the loose drag-link/track bar that caused it? Should I just tack the nuts and call it a day?
2. Are my lengths and angles the problem? The drag-link is 50" and the track bar is 44.5". They're both at 6.5 degrees.
3. If I'm going to pull the rear axles to remove the backing plates is this all I need for consumable parts: Sterling 10.5" Hub and Wheel Parts for 1999-2016 Ford F250, F350 Rear Axle


IMG_6157.jpg

IMG_6158.jpg

IMG_6159.jpg

IMG_6146.jpg

IMG_6147.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh