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What did you do for your ford today?

I did some overlanding in the Bronco 2.
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Finished moving with it. Sold the house in Tooele, Utah, moved up to Idaho falls. Truck and camp trailer were sitting in my dads backyard for the last 10 weeks, finally brought them home.

Checked fluids and straps on the ‘86, and hit the road. Figure about 12K lbs total, with the trailer full, the bed full of tools, and the cab full of tools, guns, and ammo. Did the 200 miles without issue, but the 460 got about 7mpg doing it. Has 3.55’s and 35’s, so cruising on the flat ground was fine, but on the hills it was working a bit.
 
Picked up leafs. Gonna go start the disassembly process after I get the kid to bed. Oh, and picked up a new u bolt to hold the airbag bracket on. Dunno how I broke that:confused:

So I need the leaf to shackle bolts, and u bolts...should I just buy a shackle flip while I'm here? Could get rid of the block that way. Better ride, no block, but it can make for a shit pinion angle....sometimes. If I'm ditching the 4" block, I'd want a 4" lift reversal kit....right?

Truck is daily driven, flatdecked, used to haul materials and tools, and dirtbikes, and drag our 19' bumper pull travel trailer around. Has a set of firestone bags on it that I pump up when needed.

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Took delivery of this hunk of shit and got it into my driveway (74 F250). The pictures really don't show what a pile it is. Good thing all I care about is the frame for smog exemption. Guy had a super sick trailer. Once the truck came out he was able to lower the Torino down several feet.

Anyone want to buy a 390/C6 that starts up/runs, rear Dana 60 or anything else?

All I plan to keep is the frame, fenders, hood, and I'm cutting up the bed/cab for parts I need.
 

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After reading the dually spacer thread I decided to remove my .5" spacers.:laughing:
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I bought them to use with the HMMWV tire/rim spare.
The HMMWV rim center hole is 1/16th of an inch smaller than the cast hub ring at the base.
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This is a pic of a HMMWV center up against said ring/said ring is .5" deep:
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Said spacer covers said ring so I can use the HMMWV spare tire/rim:
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so you're running your wheels not bolted tight against the hub flange now?
If they don't fit over the hub register without the spacer and you removed the spacer...
 
I hopefully didn't just cost myself an over priced group 65 battery.

I replaced that corroded connecter a while back but somehow managed to swap two wires..... The power lock power wire and the door courtesy light power wire. So I took my battery down to 0.00v twice. for a couple days straight.

It's been charging all afternoon, hopefully it comes back.

Edit: well it held a charge over night.
 
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Exciting stuff on the Bronco2, Added a new A/C condensor from rock auto for $40 and the 2 core 1991 Auto trans explorer radiator. ($100)
Last weekend the Bronco2 didn't over heat on me, it just ran on the L of NORMAL with the A/C climbing in the mountians, so might as well swap out the radiator. The condenser was just trashed.
Yes, I have a nice shop that is full of other crap, so I work in the gravel with garbage cans as tables.
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Brought the camper home for next weekend. And it actually fit in the driveway. I was not expecting it to actually go in due to the driveway pitch.
 
Some water got into a plug wire boot and some extremely corrosion occurred on the cap/wire for #4 cylinder. So I made some new wires and put a new cap on
 

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Ordered the two tie rod halves.

Hoping to reuse both adjustable sleeves.
The exposed threads on both tie rods are completely worn down flat, so turning said adjustable sleeves are difficult/impossible.
I figure I can spread said adjustable sleeves enough with a large screwdriver in order to unscrew them.
 
Gonna give my OBS some love......

I ordered a complete grill/headlight/marker light kit along with tail lights and a new set of cab clearance lights a few days ago. They are all original from 97 and have seen better days.

I've also been eyeballing the Sky's Offroad SD axle conversion brackets recently. I think I want to convert my truck over to a coil sprung setup and possibly a dually if I can find a pair of OBS rear dually fenders that are not priced at a zillion dollars. :smokin:

Who has OBS dually fenders for me? :grinpimp:
 
Been trying to find the source of random violent up and down shaking, which I think is coming from the front suspension. This suspension has been under the Explorer for nearly ten years and it just appeared. Very stable and smooth right up until it starts shaking. I replaced every bushing and rod end. It got less frequent, but still hits occasionally at speeds about 50 MPH on highway after going through a dip or a bump, then down to 25 or so. I found the bushings were snug but not loose at the radius arm head units on both sides (I have Duff long arms), tightened them down some more. Coil overs are at Radflo getting rebuilt and their engineer is looking at them after they are apart to see what he can see. Have had them for seven years so its time for a rebuild anyways, getting the compression valved a little lighter. Have new Eibach springs waiting at the house. If its not fixed, then I will have to start looking at the rear axle, but I don't see how a leaf sprung axle could do that. Custom leaf pack of 10 leafs and Rancho 9000 shocks, built a little stiff for when I load it up with crap and take it on long distance excursion type trips. I moved the tires around, same issue. I checked the rear axle shafts and there is no play. Not the steering because the steering wheel is shaking up and down with the rig, not turning.
 
BDK said:
Been trying to find the source of random violent up and down shaking, which I think is coming from the front suspension. This suspension has been under the Explorer for nearly ten years and it just appeared. Very stable and smooth right up until it starts shaking. I replaced every bushing and rod end. It got less frequent, but still hits occasionally at speeds about 50 MPH on highway after going through a dip or a bump, then down to 25 or so. I found the bushings were snug but not loose at the radius arm head units on both sides (I have Duff long arms), tightened them down some more. Coil overs are at Radflo getting rebuilt and their engineer is looking at them after they are apart to see what he can see. Have had them for seven years so its time for a rebuild anyways, getting the compression valved a little lighter. Have new Eibach springs waiting at the house. If its not fixed, then I will have to start looking at the rear axle, but I don't see how a leaf sprung axle could do that. Custom leaf pack of 10 leafs and Rancho 9000 shocks, built a little stiff for when I load it up with crap and take it on long distance excursion type trips. I moved the tires around, same issue. I checked the rear axle shafts and there is no play. Not the steering because the steering wheel is shaking up and down with the rig, not turning.
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What’s your track bar set up like on the axle side? Is it a stock d44 mount with a stud sticking out? If so I keep running into those being all ovaled out causing issues like that and Dorman makes a stud repair kit for it. Just a shot in the dark.
 
It's a BC Broncos track bar with rod end at top and poly bushing at axle mount. Both mounts are double sheared. I've had that bushing completely blown out and the only way I knew was I felt a bump and went looking. Has new bushing and rod end.
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BDK said:
Side picture. It's patiently waiting return of the shocks.
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Hubs unlocked? I was a little hung over one time heading home from ocotillio, the truck started doing something similar. Turns out if you have the hubs locked an very uneven tire pressures it does fun stuff at speed. I was almost to Henshaw before I figured it out :lmao:
 
Tore into doing the cam phaser lockout deal, every single lower valve cover bolt on the drivers side has rounded heads! I was able to get them out with my easy out sockets. Apparently they are unobtainable, even Ford doesn't well them any more, I have two options,, hit up the junkyard for some upper side used ones or clean up my lowers and weld a nut on to each one. @#$%ing Fords! LOL
Once I got the cam phaser off it decided it wanted to be in two pieces! The timing ring fell off, the three little pins that hold it on, one is missing and the other two had wallowed out the holes. I ordered two new phasers, still going to put the lock outs in. Had to yank it out of the garage and push it aside for the time being. The good news is for a motor with 218K on it it doesn't look that bad. The cam phaser was genuine FOMOCO :flipoff2:

ETA: went the junkyard route, grabbed 8 valve cover bolts, didn't bring a 7mm socket to remove the coils with me so I couldn't get more, I'll head back in a day or two.
 
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I replaced the GEM body module to get the electric shift 4WD working right. What a PITA. It shifts good now but if it pulls this crap again it’s gonna be manual shift transfer case and solenoid switches.
 
Started pulling the 74 f250 parts truck apart that I bought for it's frame and title (to make my 78 F150 smog exempt here in CA) and realized the cab is in WAY better shape than the F150's. This changes my plans drastically:
since I don't need the F150 to be smog exempt until I swap the motor out (current plan is a Godzilla 7.3) I'm going to continue building on the F150 (all I have planned is the 1-ton swap and related upgrades), strip the F250 down to the frame, keep the cab/hood/fenders/ frame (shorten it for the F150's short-bed), box some areas, prep it for the 4wd and 1-ton swap, sandblast/paint, and then store it until I have money to do the engine swap.

When the time comes I'll paint the cab & bed and move it all to the F250 frame which is actually thicker than the F150 frame and smog exempt, and finish it off with the engine swap for what is basically a frame-off restomod rockcrawler I guess. A lot of sleepless nights and days obsessing to think out all of the possible approaches to this and this makes the most sense to me.

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Hadn't been to the shop in a couple of weeks to work on the 67 Bronco but went this past Thursday: did a power steering conversion to it with an F150 box which was a huge win (since my GF will be driving it), got the column in.

Next up is: install 23 gallon fuel tank, put a steering wheel on it, install master cylinder/prop valve (already have new lines/hoses in place), finish mounting the dash/gauges/wiring, then I can focus on starting it up. Super close to getting this thing moving under it's own power.

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