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Waste of time and money... Turbo TBI

arse_sidewards said:
Plenty of pictures of people doing bungs and rails in a drill press...
Click to expand...
You got a favorite example?

Id love to add some bungs to my Victor Jr and use the FuelTech 500 I have.

I need some confidence...

I've been really tempted to buy the SpeedMaster China manifold.
 
CarterKraft said:
You got a favorite example?

Id love to add some bungs to my Victor Jr and use the FuelTech 500 I have.

I need some confidence...

I've been really tempted to buy the SpeedMaster China manifold.
Click to expand...
I'll be honest, I'm not too sure why you couldn't make them seal decent enough if they were hand drilled

O-rings on the top and bottom of the injectors, right? Pretty tolerant to some misalignment. Spray pattern and angle into into the runner/port are probably importanter
 
CarterKraft said:
You got a favorite example?

Id love to add some bungs to my Victor Jr and use the FuelTech 500 I have.

I need some confidence...

I've been really tempted to buy the SpeedMaster China manifold.
Click to expand...
I’ll try and remember to get it tomorrow but one of the intake threads on Fordsix Performance had one.
 
Provience said:
I'll be honest, I'm not too sure why you couldn't make them seal decent enough if they were hand drilled

O-rings on the top and bottom of the injectors, right? Pretty tolerant to some misalignment. Spray pattern and angle into into the runner/port are probably importanter
Click to expand...
Getting the holes drilled and nice doesn't seem to be the problem it's the precise alignment to the rails IMO.

Maybe just build a drill jig to use on the raw rails and the manifold then the spacing doesn't really matter cause the jig will align them to be the same.

I'm trying to keep this low budget and heavy DIY.
 
CarterKraft said:
Getting the holes drilled and nice doesn't seem to be the problem it's the precise alignment to the rails IMO.

Maybe just build a drill jig to use on the raw rails and the manifold then the spacing doesn't really matter cause the jig will align them to be the same.

I'm trying to keep this low budget and heavy DIY.
Click to expand...
Have you got weld in bungs as well?

Drill holes all sloppy like, install injectors with rails and wet set the bugs into the holes with epoxy :flipoff2:
 
Provience said:
Have you got weld in bungs as well?

Drill holes all sloppy like, install injectors with rails and wet set the bugs into the holes with epoxy :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
I really thought about that plan...

I have a nice enough drill press to do it that way.
I'm stuck cause I wanted a LS+ not a SBC...
But since I have the FuelTech already I was curious how cheaply I could cobble up a mpfi or even throttle body setup possibly boosted in the meantime.
 
CarterKraft said:
You got a favorite example?

Id love to add some bungs to my Victor Jr and use the FuelTech 500 I have.

I need some confidence...

I've been really tempted to buy the SpeedMaster China manifold.
Click to expand...
I couldn't find the OG picture of this setup using a drill press but I found someone who copied him.

21WsIWl.jpg



IIRC he said they make a special drill reamer thing for fuel rails. He said he didn't need it for the manifold side but it's helpful for the fuel rail side for some reason.

Also found this gem where someone put the head on the table and used blocking to set angle. :laughing:

fimanifold_drilling_bungs1.jpg
 
Also, just drill two holes at the right distance in a scrap using your pilot drill and use that and a spare bit or pin or whatever locate all the holes in both the rail and manifold.
 
I think you are really overthinking this. Keep it simple: 454 throttle body unit, but put a late model fuel pressure regulator spring mated with early model injectors. This will increase both the pressure and fuel flow rate from the throttle body to match what you are trying to do. If you find it starving, at that point you should upgrade to the vortec or LT1 pump.
 
CarterKraft said:
Getting the holes drilled and nice doesn't seem to be the problem it's the precise alignment to the rails IMO.

Maybe just build a drill jig to use on the raw rails and the manifold then the spacing doesn't really matter cause the jig will align them to be the same.

I'm trying to keep this low budget and heavy DIY.
Click to expand...
i have a Bridgeport mill. i have been looking for a reason to buy a new DRO.
 
DRTDEVL said:
I think you are really overthinking this. Keep it simple: 454 throttle body unit, but put a late model fuel pressure regulator spring mated with early model injectors. This will increase both the pressure and fuel flow rate from the throttle body to match what you are trying to do. If you find it starving, at that point you should upgrade to the vortec or LT1 pump.
Click to expand...
But starving under boost would be at what HP?
 
gunracer1 said:
i have a Bridgeport mill. i have been looking for a reason to buy a new DRO.
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Does your mill not have dials on the hand wheels? Because if the dials work the DRO is mostly luxury. Not having to think about backlash is real nice though.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Not having to think about backlash is real nice though.
Click to expand...
My lathes are from the 1800's and my mill is more clapped out than OP's mom. Using those dials would be like doing T9-word in a Rotary Phone.


OP needs to put a Sneaky Pete system and the other fuel mods on it and see how long the 305/transmission will hold on. Depending on engine mileage, the rings are already gapped for a 100 shot. :smokin:
 
bad zuki said:
My lathes are from the 1800's and my mill is more clapped out than OP's mom. Using those dials would be like doing T9-word in a Rotary Phone.
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My shit is like that but the only thing that I slapped a DRO on was the lathe because the dials on the mill work just fine, albeit sometimes with a lot of record keeping. :laughing:

The DRO is awesome but not having it never stopped me.
 
why not just grab a sniper throttle body?
pretty sure some of them come with 4 injectors.
slap some beefy lb/hr boys in it with your fueltech to run them and roll out.
 
87manche said:
why not just grab a sniper throttle body?
pretty sure some of them come with 4 injectors.
slap some beefy lb/hr boys in it with your fueltech to run them and roll out.
Click to expand...
I was looking at them last night, terminator X good for 1250 hp is $1k+

IMO that is LS swap money...

I don't have a good (high hp) sbc block so building a lot of hp in the current platform is not going to be economically possible.
 
I have a 91 TBI engine that I put a TBI designed Whipple supercharger on about 10 years ago. At 7 psi of manifold pressure at 3750 RPM's it went extremely lean, so I installed a 454-throttle body and it raised the lean condition to about 4100 RPM's. Took the vehicle to a dyno shop that could tune a TBI, and he was able to get a little more fuel out of it but still went lean about 4500 RPM's. Helped the power from the 2000 - 4000 RPM range but was not worth the money or trouble. Took the whole system off this year and installed a Fitech fuel injection system. Has more power over 4000 than it did with the supercharger. Morale of the story...install the turbo but use a fuel system that can flow some fuel. The TBI system will never get you what you desire.
 
Dadnson1 said:
I have a 91 TBI engine that I put a TBI designed Whipple supercharger on about 10 years ago. At 7 psi of manifold pressure at 3750 RPM's it went extremely lean, so I installed a 454-throttle body and it raised the lean condition to about 4100 RPM's. Took the vehicle to a dyno shop that could tune a TBI, and he was able to get a little more fuel out of it but still went lean about 4500 RPM's. Helped the power from the 2000 - 4000 RPM range but was not worth the money or trouble. Took the whole system off this year and installed a Fitech fuel injection system. Has more power over 4000 than it did with the supercharger. Morale of the story...install the turbo but use a fuel system that can flow some fuel. The TBI system will never get you what you desire.
Click to expand...
Lean is fast:stirthepot:

don't talk OP out of turning 305 into FE/AL alloy ingot:flipoff2:
:lmao:
 
Dadnson1 said:
I have a 91 TBI engine that I put a TBI designed Whipple supercharger on about 10 years ago. At 7 psi of manifold pressure at 3750 RPM's it went extremely lean, so I installed a 454-throttle body and it raised the lean condition to about 4100 RPM's. Took the vehicle to a dyno shop that could tune a TBI, and he was able to get a little more fuel out of it but still went lean about 4500 RPM's. Helped the power from the 2000 - 4000 RPM range but was not worth the money or trouble. Took the whole system off this year and installed a Fitech fuel injection system. Has more power over 4000 than it did with the supercharger. Morale of the story...install the turbo but use a fuel system that can flow some fuel. The TBI system will never get you what you desire.
Click to expand...
Holy crap... a new member with useful information? Say it ain't so!:laughing:
 
Dadnson1 said:
I have a 91 TBI engine that I put a TBI designed Whipple supercharger on about 10 years ago. At 7 psi of manifold pressure at 3750 RPM's it went extremely lean, so I installed a 454-throttle body and it raised the lean condition to about 4100 RPM's. Took the vehicle to a dyno shop that could tune a TBI, and he was able to get a little more fuel out of it but still went lean about 4500 RPM's. Helped the power from the 2000 - 4000 RPM range but was not worth the money or trouble. Took the whole system off this year and installed a Fitech fuel injection system. Has more power over 4000 than it did with the supercharger. Morale of the story...install the turbo but use a fuel system that can flow some fuel. The TBI system will never get you what you desire.
Click to expand...
This was always my understanding, thanks for chiming in.
 
Thinking about drilling/welding I think I might have been to critical.

If the bungs are reasonably inline F-R then the spacing doesn't actually matter at all.
You drill and weld bungs then measure actual drilled spacing and cut UN-drilled rails to match, easy enough to achieve with a drill press and layout tools.

Under $200 in bung rails parts I bet.
 
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