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Two post lift installation in shop

SLOWPOKE693 said:
Reminds me alot of my old shop back home. I used to refer to it as the "tunnel". :laughing:
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Yea, that is an added-on bay for a motor home that the previous owner did. I want to open up the wall between it and the rest of the shop for sure.

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Mouse said:
Which lift did you buy? How did you anchor it in the concrete?
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It’s an Apex lift from www.shopequipmentlift.com. Built by Dover, the same folks who make Rotary, but at a homeowner friendly price. I used a Rotary for 10 years as a professional tech, and this one looks almost identical. Should be plenty for the junk I work on! It’s anchored to the concrete with the supplied Hilti 3/4” anchors at 3.5” depth and torqued to 110 ft/lbs per the install manual. I don’t think it’ll fall over :cool:
 
Check the anchors every so often. Over time expansion anchors can loosen up and need a retorque. Probably not much of an issue with the few cycles in a home shop though.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
Check the anchors every so often. Over time expansion anchors can loosen up and need a retorque. Probably not much of an issue with the few cycles in a home shop though.
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Yeah that’s the plan. We had annual inspections at the shop for that reason, as well as checking the rest of the fasteners and cable tension. Amazing how bad a shop full of guys can tear up what seems like indestructible equipment.
 
reklund5 said:
Yea, that is an added-on bay for a motor home that the previous owner did. I want to open up the wall between it and the rest of the shop for sure.
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dear god that is a terrible roof line for anywhere that isn't a desert.
 
arse_sidewards said:
dear god that is a terrible roof line for anywhere that isn't a desert.
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Yeah it really is. I'm working on some gutters and flashing to try and mitigate future problems.

The add on was done prior to my ownership, so I just have to work with it. You can see in this photo they tried to add some pitch to the original building to channel the runoff to the front and rear, but I have a feeling I'll have a roofing expert out this spring to help evaluate the situation.

F5AA6596-716D-4339-91FF-24805B4F75FC.jpeg
 
Are you on bedrock?
If you can dig, put in an in-ground
fuck that aboveground shit
 
reklund5 said:
Yeah it really is. I'm working on some gutters and flashing to try and mitigate future problems.

The add on was done prior to my ownership, so I just have to work with it. You can see in this photo they tried to add some pitch to the original building to channel the runoff to the front and rear, but I have a feeling I'll have a roofing expert out this spring to help evaluate the situation.
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I'd just toss up some 2x6 rafters and tin between the peak of the single bay and the peak of the tiled roof, looks like it has enough slope to drain down to the tiled side, and as a bonus it shades part of the roof so it doesn't get as hot in there.
 
[486 said:
;n266221]

I'd just toss up some 2x6 rafters and tin between the peak of the single bay and the peak of the tiled roof, looks like it has enough slope to drain down to the tiled side, and as a bonus it shades part of the roof so it doesn't get as hot in there.
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That may be a possibility. Probably gonna wait until we do some other construction and bundle it in. There's talk of an addition on the house and putting a metal roof on the whole mess.
 
I'm generally not a fan of minimum spec. This happened to a co worker lifting an empty passenger van. Well within the lifts capacity and on the light side of what we normally work on. Thankfully no one was hurt.

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No overlay, its epoxy paint. Low grade concrete gave way after a decade of use.
 
I bet the expansion anchors weren't set down deep enough either. There is quite a bit of bolt projection on those bolts.
 
Smithy said:
No overlay, its epoxy paint. Low grade concrete gave way after a decade of use.
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Looks like they way over finished it then. Work concrete too much and you bring all the "paste" to the top and all the aggregate gets pushed to the bottom.
 
bkfj40 said:
I bet the expansion anchors weren't set down deep enough either. There is quite a bit of bolt projection on those bolts.
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bgaidan said:
Looks like they way over finished it then. Work concrete too much and you bring all the "paste" to the top and all the aggregate gets pushed to the bottom.
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I'm guessing it's true on both accounts. Not looking to derail reklund5's thread, but a warning to watch over whomever is doing the concrete pour and lift installation. Make sure both understand the intended application. It may bite you in the future.
 
Is it common to have someone install a lift for you, or is it more of a do it yourself thing?
 
woods said:
Is it common to have someone install a lift for you, or is it more of a do it yourself thing?
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You have a fucking tractor with a loader on it. Even if it is an overgrown lawnmower you shouldn't be asking that question. :flipoff2:
 
arse_sidewards said:
You have a fucking tractor with a loader on it. Even if it is an overgrown lawnmower you shouldn't be asking that question. :flipoff2:
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So its a pretty straightforward thing then. I didn't know if shit like angles, load bearings, and proper mounting was to be done by someone that does it for a living. Like how somethings are just best to be hired out.
 
It looks fairly easy to do, but I've never installed one myself. We've added 6 more lifts to the shop last year. The guy who installs them muscles everything in place by hand, no tractor or forklift. The anchor bolts and hardware should be provided with a new lift. Measure and mark out a few chalk lines that will line up with points on the lift base. Make sure the columns are plumb, drill and bolt it down.
 
snivilous said:
$2k shipped for 9000lb atlas from Greg smith equipment
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I have two of these. One in my commercial dealership shop, that goes up and down 20+/- times a day. We put diesel trucks up it, but if Im working on anything that requires manhandling the truck I toss tall jack stands under 4 corners. Nothing on anything lighter/shorter though. I think the concrete measures between 4-5'' when I put it in. The other one is at home in my shop and currently holds my 68 camaro up out of the mice's reach. The concrete it is in is roughly the same as above, 4-5'' and was the original floor in my shop that burned down. Probably shouldnt have put the lift back in that concrete, but meh, its still there and doing fine. :laughing:
 
xr-nut said:
I have two of these. One in my commercial dealership shop, that goes up and down 20+/- times a day. We put diesel trucks up it, but if Im working on anything that requires manhandling the truck I toss tall jack stands under 4 corners. Nothing on anything lighter/shorter though. I think the concrete measures between 4-5'' when I put it in. The other one is at home in my shop and currently holds my 68 camaro up out of the mice's reach. The concrete it is in is roughly the same as above, 4-5'' and was the original floor in my shop that burned down. Probably shouldnt have put the lift back in that concrete, but meh, its still there and doing fine. :laughing:
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Did you buy the tall jack stands or make some? Anything much heavier than my buggy I get scared to spend much time on the lift and being under it, I've never had any issues but without some redundancy to save me...
 
woods said:
Is it common to have someone install a lift for you, or is it more of a do it yourself thing?
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I managed to find a guy on CL to install mine last summer. Was $500 for install cost, but he picked it up downtown for way less than standard customer price. So it was really like $200. Plus having the 3/4” concrete bit and such setup already. He sure did knock it out quick and muscled the posts up off the trailer using leverage and physics.

snivilous said:
Did you buy the tall jack stands or make some? Anything much heavier than my buggy I get scared to spend much time on the lift and being under it, I've never had any issues but without some redundancy to save me...
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I got a pair via Amazon finally. That much threaded rod and basic thrust bearings has to add up quick compared to that pricing.

http://Sunex 6809A, Underhoist Support Stand, ¾ Ton Capacity, 12 Inch Diameter Base, Contoured Saddle, Bearing Mounted Spin Handle, Self-Locking ACME Threaded Screw, Supports Vehicle Components https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AHIWN78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_hoIcGbA95QSYV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Ive only used them when installing the suspension on the JLU a few weeks ago so for. Being able to spin them up and down was worth it over a pinned/fixed Jack stand.
 
RPS1030 said:
I managed to find a guy on CL to install mine last summer. Was $500 for install cost, but he picked it up downtown for way less than standard customer price. So it was really like $200. Plus having the 3/4” concrete bit and such setup already. He sure did knock it out quick and muscled the posts up off the trailer using leverage and physics.
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Noted. That's kind of what I was wondering. If there's already a guy with all the tools and experience that can knock something like this out. :beer:
 
woods said:
Noted. That's kind of what I was wondering. If there's already a guy with all the tools and experience that can knock something like this out. :beer:
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I found it really easy to install. The hardest part was unloading it off the trailer, but a skid steer made short work of that. Me and a buddy stood up the columns and shuffled them into position by hand tho. I borrowed a hammer drill and bought a $30 3/4" bit for it. Hardest part was running to NAPA for hydraulic fluid. It called for starting with 8qts, so I bought 12. Turns out it took all of 4 gallons, so I had to go back the next morning before I could finish bleeding the cylinders.
 
snivilous said:
Did you buy the tall jack stands or make some? Anything much heavier than my buggy I get scared to spend much time on the lift and being under it, I've never had any issues but without some redundancy to save me...
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I bought otc stands. I think they're rated at 1500# each. these: https://www.penntoolco.com/otc-stin...MJ9NGJGOhne4WzFy_vsuZ081it_cVsgAaAtSdEALw_wcB

I only use them when I have a fullsize diesel truck on the lift, or say if I'm pulling the rear end out of something I'll prop up the front. plus they're super useful for regular lift work too. Ex: was putting a starter in an s-10 last week and it wouldnt come out without lifting the rear of the trans up. Perfect tool to do that the underhoist stand.
 
crisbee1 said:
From Bendpaks website...
Pre-Existing Minimum Floor Requirements:

TWO‐POST MODELSMIN. THICKNESSMIN. COMP. STRENGTHREINFORCEMENTREBAR SPACING
GP‐7 SERIES MODELS4‐1/4"3000 PSI / 28 Day Aging#6 Rebar12 in
XPR‐9 SERIES MODELS4‐1/4"3000 PSI / 28 Day Aging#6 Rebar12 in
XPR‐10 SERIES MODELS4‐1/4"3000 PSI / 28 Day Aging#6 Rebar12 in
XPR‐12 SERIES MODELS6 1/2"3000 PSI / 28 Day Aging#6 Rebar10 in
XPR‐15 SERIES MODELS8"3000 PSI / 28 Day Aging#6 Rebar10 in
XPR‐18 SERIES MODELS8"3000 PSI / 28 Day Aging#6 Rebar10 in
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Old post, I know, but since this thread is back on the first page: Anyone know why the minimum floor requirements for an existing versus a new slab are so different?

New slab reqs from Bendpaks site:

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