What's new

Turbo Charging and Forced Induction BASICS

I am in no way a turbo guy. It's been a long time since I've had the numbers and theory fresh in my mind but you really don't want to force more air through a turbo than it's intended to have that just builds stupid amounts of heat.

Many people have used turbos off of 90s diesel trucks to make respectable power on 80s and 90s smallblocks and you can get a HX35 in damn near any configuration for any power level. I would start there.

i think it's going the other way, dropping efficiency due to low volume, rather than stuffing too much air through. basically, trying to find something with a large turbine (exhaust) to deal with the volume but a lazy compressor (intake) so that it isn't trying to make 2 bar or better. i guess the only downside is that the exhaust pressure relief/bypass valve (wastegate) would be regularly running in bypass mode. doesn't seem like too big of a deal
 
here is yet another link, this is the turbonetics inc. catalogue. keep in mind, their main theme is "we have bazillions of combinations, PLEASE give us a call to discuss and we can get you exactly what you need!"

untitled (turboneticsinc.com)

choose turbo step 1.png




choose turbo step 2.png


choose turbo step 3.png


choose turbo step 4.png


choose turbo step 5.png
 
choose turbo step 6.png


choose turbo step 7.png





What this last picture is saying, any point NOT on the island, is a point that won't flow apparently. or, i guess more accurately, to flow the 4.0 pressure ratio through THAT setup, it would introduce about a 1.0 pressure ratio increase on the exhaust side, i.e. the head won't be able to evacuate enough through the turbo, so making 40 psi at the intake nets the same as making 30 psi at the intake, because of the 10 psi in the exhaust.

apparently staying on the island of the map is important :rasta:
 
Continuing through their catalog, they offer a "full" kit for a 2010-2013 Camero LS3 to go from the factory 364 hp rating (sounds about right) to 550 hpat 6.8 PSI of boost. certainly sounds low enough to be easy on parts.

Turbonetics 15192 Turbonetics Turbo Systems | Summit Racing

summit lists the complete kit, which includes things like spark plugs and bolt in exhaust, honest to god, spend money, bolt on, kick ass, CARB compliant kit, for $6,250

it's interesting to me that they are running dual small wastegates and a single turbo with that kit.


Turbo HP-76 / F1-75 (turboneticsinc.com)

this is the turbo they are using - entry level LS is pretty well going to cover the "more" but without overdoing it crowd


Introducing the perfect entry level turbo for LS engine builds. This turbocharger features a HP76 compressor and the F1-75 turbine wheel utilized in this unit is housed in a T4 turbine housing. Turbonetics exclusive F1-series turbine wheels feature a 10-blade design and tall tip height configuration to maximize the exhaust gas energy and keep back pressure low. As an option this turbocharger also feature Turbonetics patented Ceramic Ball Bearing system. Turbonetics exclusive design is made with almost indestructible silicone-nitride ceramic balls


Template for Compressor Maps V1 (turboneticsinc.com)

here is the compressor map

HP 76 com map.png


yeah, i cut the top off. nobody is running 2.6+ (23.5 psi) pressure ratio on a stock bottom end, for that full custom nonsense, pull up the full map :flipoff2:

it's at the very bottom of the map, but 1.3 PR (5psi) and 1.5 PR (8psi) and 1.7 PR (10 psi) are all on here in some reasonable form.

obviously this compressor would be more happy making 55 lb/min (~550hp) at 2.4 PR instead of 1.6, but that would require about a 170 cubic inch engine that could handle the ~24 psi rather than a 350 cu in lazying along with ~9psi
 
Last edited:
welp, from them and using that turbo for ~500 hp at 5-10 psi depending on engine size of 300-400 cubic inch, running a small air-air intercooler for 500 hp and a single 35mm wastegate (up to 500hp according to the catalogue) and their cheaper BOV, cuz, meh. plus a bit of fab work for tubes/exhaust work and figure $500 with MSD depending on a whole bunch of things and roughly $2k for decent stuff direct from turbonetics (dealers likely cheaper than direct)

turbo price list example.png
 
GAM_Turbo-Tech-103_Expert-1.pdf (garrettmotion.com)

garrett motion "reading compressor maps" 13 page article

Click image for larger version Name:	garrett comp map 1.png Views:	0 Size:	177.9 KB ID:	342142


Click image for larger version Name:	garrett comp map 1.png Views:	0 Size:	177.9 KB ID:	342142


Click image for larger version Name:	garrett comp map 1.png Views:	0 Size:	177.9 KB ID:	342142






Alright, this now puts me the other way. it is not desireable to be beyond the "choke line" to the TOP RIGHT of the map due to overspeed and eff drop issues, hence the "go larger" advice. However, falling off on the BOTTOM RIGHT won't involve the high risk overspeed issue, you just have the loss of efficiency. i'm glad it is more related to an Eff % rather than some damaging thing :laughing:

the greater detail explinations of the garret article make me feel much more comfortable looking at comp maps. don't want to fall off the bottom right, but if it isn't too far off, not a big deal. at all.

edit: further down in the reading, comes this note. Apparently i wasn't mindful at just how steep those Turbo RPM lines are getting as they fall off the choke line, and they bring up the excellent reminder about VE calculations versus RPM calculations versus "max RPM"

for reference, compressor map for GT3076R. This turbo has a 76mm, 56 trim compressor wheel.

Click image for larger version Name:	garrett choke line 4.png Views:	0 Size:	229.8 KB ID:	342147



..

on the next chart, the 5.0 dot is just off the edge of the map to the right of the choke line, the statement is "clearly too small and would not be considered" :eek: yeah, so unless you are looking to make your peak power right at max engine RPM, don't risk going very far across the choke line :laughing:
 
Last edited:
went ahead and played with Garrets "boost adviser". using the low efficiency ford 400, i called it a 320 cu inch to get something close. the advisor assumes a pretty high VE for more modern stuff and a target HP max of 450 :rasta:

also, keeping your peak torque and peak HP number guesstimates from being too far spread out helps as well, if you happen to use it and get a "no results found" try bringing them closer together.

GTW3884R


841297-5005S
841691-5005S



and


GTW3684R


841297-5002S
841691-5002S

where the two rec'd compressor/turbine/housing combo's, with the GTW3684R being the smaller of the two.

Garrett Boost Adviser | Garrett Turbo Calculator Match & Identification (garrettmotion.com)
 
Not to derail this thread but figured I’d add it in for a cheap turbo setup and probably the only LS turbo setup that has appealed to me so far. Most LS turbo setups I have seen are all about max HP at max RPM and that’s probably what I see online because most people doing turbos are racing. For a crawler I don’t want to have to open up the motor, gap rings, have it handle 20+ psi of boost and I don’t want it to hit at the top end. This guy did that. I’m curious how “safe” it is in terms of cylinder pressure but I love that it’s low boost and it hits early with tons of TQ. I’d love to do a remote mount setup with this.
90D57A32-106D-4DA4-A885-2DDE5A1A1353.png


90D57A32-106D-4DA4-A885-2DDE5A1A1353.png
 
Not to derail this thread but figured I’d add it in for a cheap turbo setup and probably the only LS turbo setup that has appealed to me so far. Most LS turbo setups I have seen are all about max HP at max RPM and that’s probably what I see online because most people doing turbos are racing. For a crawler I don’t want to have to open up the motor, gap rings, have it handle 20+ psi of boost and I don’t want it to hit at the top end. This guy did that. I’m curious how “safe” it is in terms of cylinder pressure but I love that it’s low boost and it hits early with tons of TQ. I’d love to do a remote mount setup with this.]

no such thing as off-topic, this is exactly the kind of stuff i'm interested in :smokin: :smokin:

something I do not understand though "VS racing 69mm turbo". that doesn't mean anything to me! :laughing:

maybe this one? VS Racing Cast 67/65 T4 .96AR VSR Turbo LS 5.3/5.7/6.0

VS Racing Cast 67/65 T4 .96AR VSR Turbo LS 5.3/5.7/6.0 | eBay

$320, so the price checks out.

SPECS:

T04E Compressor Cover

Cast Wheel 67/102.4 P Trim Turbine Wheel

3" Filter & 2" Outlet

Turbine Housing : ..96ar Open T4


VSR 67/65 T4 .96ar Cast – VSRacing (turbo4less.com)

VSR 67/65 T4 .96ar

Cast wheel 67mm/102.4mm P trim turbine wheel with .96ar open T4 housing.

T04E compressor cover 3″ filter 2″ outlet


same basic description on their website. I guess that is the major difference between the cheap stuff and the expensive stuff, paying for testing and verification of what is going on. i guess you could always find a garret, for example, and then find a cheapie with similar wheels and A/R ratio listed and figure it is close enough.
 
Yeah, I would say sizing is the only important thing because that size turbo is making killer TQ down low. It’s much more appealing then something making peak TQ and HP closer to redline.

I’d love to do it, packaging is a fucking nightmare for me though
 
Yeah, I would say sizing is the only important thing because that size turbo is making killer TQ down low. It’s much more appealing then something making peak TQ and HP closer to redline.

I’d love to do it, packaging is a fucking nightmare for me though

that's where the remote mounted ones have bigly appeal. sure the STS DIY remote kit is spendy, but it comes with a seperate oiler and all the little doo-dads which is nice

Compact Constant-Flow-Rate Pump for Water and Oil, Harsh-Environment, 12V DC, 0.61 gpm

mcmaster carr 8220K43 would probably do the trick with a little home fabbed reservoir and such....hmm, maybe that would be a thing
 
a couple interesting notes from the garrett catalogue

Catalog-Volume-8_Full-Version_FINAL_web-version_June_2020_PAGES.pdf (garrettmotion.com)

now that i'm much more comfortable reading the compressor maps, a bit of the same information from elsewhere presented in slightly different phrasing

Wheel Trim

Trim is a common term used when talking about or describing turbochargers. For example, you may hear someone say "I have a GTXxxxx". What is trim? Trim is a term used to express the relationship between the inducer and exducer of both turbine and compressor wheels. More accurately, it is an area ratio. Based on aerodynamics and air entry paths, the inducer for a compressor wheel is the smaller diameter. For turbine wheels, the inducer is the larger diameter. The trim of a wheel, whether compressor or turbine, affects performance by shifting the airflow capacity. All other factors held constant, a higher trim wheel will flow more than a smaller trim wheel. However, it is important to note that very often all other factors are not held constant. So just because a wheel is a larger trim does not necessarily mean that it will flow more. Compressor Trim = (Inducer² / Exducer²) x 100 Turbine Trim= (Exducer² / Inducer²) x 100

garret wheel trim.png


and later on

A/R (Area/Radius) describes a geometric characteristic of all compressor and turbine housings. It is defined as the inlet (or, for compressor housings, the discharge) cross-sectional area divided by the radius from the turbo centerline to the centroid of that area.

Compressor A/R - Compressor performance is comparatively insensitive to changes in A/R. Larger A/R housings are sometimes used to optimize performance of low boost applications, and smaller A/R are used for high boost applications. However, as this influence of A/R on compressor performance is minor, there are rarely A/R options available for compressor housings.

Turbine A/R - Turbine performance is greatly affected by changing the A/R of the housing. Using a smaller A/R will increase the exhaust gas velocity into the turbine wheel providing increased turbine power at lower engine speeds and resulting in quicker boost response. The smaller A/R also causes the flow to enter the wheel more tangentially, which reduces the ultimate flow capacity of the turbine wheel. This will increase exhaust backpressure and reduce the engine's ability to breathe effectively at high RPM, adversely affecting peak engine power.

Using a larger A/R will lower exhaust gas velocity, and delay boost response. The flow in a larger A/R housing enters the wheel in a more radial fashion, increasing the wheel's effective flow capacity, resulting in lower backpressure and more power at higher engine speeds.

When deciding between A/R options, be realistic with the intended vehicle use and choose the A/R to bias the performance toward the desired powerband characteristic

garret ar picture.png






I think an important soft and loose rule to take away from this is that the Compressor is sensitive to Trim and the Turbine is less so, while the Turbine is sensitive to A/R and the Compressor is less so.
 
note about turbo vs supercharger:

it is easy to see and understand how a supercharger takes power to make power, because it has a belt right there. turbo's also take power to make power, but they do it via exhaust restriction and especially when you are maxing out a turbo, i.e. too small turbo and flowing too much volume at low pressure or trying to spin higher engine rpm and producing more and more pressure, you are robbing power just the same as the belt driven supercharger.

like all things pressure; differentials matter.

random thought from reading too much :rasta:
 
T70 Turbocharger Turbo Charger T4 3" Universal V-Band 500+ HP 0.70 0.81 A/R | eBay

ebay sub $300 turbo with the following specs:

T4 turbocharger to fit our single vortec turbo kit




Inlet4"
Outlet2.5"
BearingWet Floating Bearings
CoolingOil
FlangeStandard T4
Compressor.70 A/R Compressor
Turbine.81 A/R Turbine
Compressor Wheel91mm/61mm
Turbine Wheel74.7mm/62mm
Hot Side3" V-band

some interesting notes, comparing that to the garret catalogue. compressor 61/91 * 100 = 67, so the ebay turbo runs a bit higher trim than the garrets, which claim to stick closer to 0.65 trim

looks similar to garrett G35-900 using a 62/76 * 100 = 65 trim. so maybe very very roughly it would be similar to that compressor map, though with worse low end performance and probably lower performance overall as i trust garret to maintain better quality control, etc.


ebay turbine 0.81 A/R housing and 62/74.7 * 100 = 83 trim

the G35-900 uses a 62/68 * 100 = maths out to 91 trim, but is listed at 84 trim :confused: and is available with a 0.83 A/R housing

the point overall is that I WOULD GUESS the ebay turbo would be marginally more lazy and with reduced life than the garrett. head to head drag race and you could probably notice the difference. street driving? i dunno, it's tempting :laughing:
 
that's where the remote mounted ones have bigly appeal. sure the STS DIY remote kit is spendy, but it comes with a seperate oiler and all the little doo-dads which is nice



mcmaster carr 8220K43 would probably do the trick with a little home fabbed reservoir and such....hmm, maybe that would be a thing

Wouldn’t a remote mount be a disaster in a rock crawler? Mud and water getting in the turbo?
 
Wouldn’t a remote mount be a disaster in a rock crawler? Mud and water getting in the turbo?

no :confused: super easy to duct the compressor intake into the cab out up to wherever. seems like there is usually more room available in the rear though :laughing: the dedicated oil pump means less likely to kill the turbo when in weird positions and you get the typical momentary oil starve on the engine :rasta:

I could see water being an issue on the cast housings with a bunch of heat though. mount the fucker on the roof rack :lmao: I dunno, just a thought.
 
this is handy

turbo specs (gm-8, Hx-35, hx-40) | Diesel Place

Missing some or all
yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7
,

there have been thread where this was discussed, mainly the HX40 thread. Here is some stuff Ive measured or recall


Gm-8 (borg warner used on 6.5L diesel)

Compressor
Inducer: 53mm
Exducer: 75mm
Trim: 50
blades: 6
A/R:


Turbine
Inducer: 62mm
Exducer: 52mm
blades: 12
A/R: About 0.56, which is around 9cm^2 cross section area housing

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hx35 (holset used on dodge 5.9)

Compressor
Inducer: 54mm
Exducer: 83mm
Trim: 42
blades: 8 or 7 depending on year
A/R: 0.55


Turbine
Inducer: 70mm
Exducer: 60mm
blades: 12
A/R: Holset uses Area, not A/R, compared to Garret. Stock is 12cm^2, which if you convert to inches and divide by the Radius, you would get around 0.63

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hx40wII (CKO)

Compressor
Inducer: 57mm
Exducer: 75mm
Trim: 57
blades: 8
A/R:
Can also get lower 52 trim wheel with 60mm inducer and 83mm exducer

Turbine
Inducer: 76mm
Exducer: 64mm
blades: 10 or 12
A/R: 14cm^2 cross section area housing, about 0.73 A/R

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hx40 (CKO)

Compressor
Inducer: 60mm
Exducer: 83mm
Trim: 52
blades: 8
A/R:
Can also get higher 57 trim wheel with 57mm inducer and 75mm exducer



Turbine
Inducer: 76mm
Exducer: 64mm
blades: 12
A/R: 16cm^2 cross section area housing, about 0.83A/R
Other wheel option is 10-blade 85mm inducer, 75mm exducerhttps://www.dieselplace.com/threads/turbo-specs-gm-8-hx-35-hx-40.455047/
https://www.dieselplace.com/threads/turbo-specs-gm-8-hx-35-hx-40.455047/
 
BorgWarner MatchBot

matchbot is fun to play with and let's you view all kinds of compressor maps easily.

the 76S75 with 57mm ind and 76.2mm exd is probably pretty close to what the GM-8 might be for junkyard finds

borg warn com map.png
 
Boost referencing a Holley carb - The BangShift.com Forums

posts 18-21

Re: Boost referencing a Holley carb

-> Modified to add photos...

This is an interesting topic. I had to spend a fair amount of time researching this myself to understand what boost referencing provides in a blown application.

To start with, the term ‘boost referencing’, however cool it sounds, is somewhat of a misnomer when dealing with carburetors. It should really be called ‘vacuum referencing’ or something similar since boost really has nothing to do with power valves. ‘Boost referencing’ is appropriate however when talking about boost referenced fuel regulators or ignition timing, etc. My two cents <g>.

Most carburetor power valves sense vacuum levels in the intake manifold directly through a port on the bottom base plate of the carb. This is a problem with blower-mounted, suck-through carburetors, since the vacuum levels seen at the *top* of the blower do not reflect the actual manifold vacuum *below* the blower. We’ll see below why this is a problem and why you should really consider adopting boost referencing for your blower application.

Basically, power valves constitute part of the idle-to-WOT transition circuits within a carburetor, designed to ensure the air/fuel mix stays within acceptable limits. Too rich (excess fuel) and you'll foul plugs and over time, wash cylinder walls and rings causing scoring and premature wear, etc. Too lean (excess oxygen) and you run the risk of inducing abnormally high cylinder temperatures which can burn valves and pistons, trigger catastrophic detonation, etc. Power valves are rated in inches of vacuum (4.5, 6.5, 10.5, etc.), indicating at what point they will open to introduce more fuel into the air flow. A 6.5 power valve remains closed at vacuum levels *above* 6.5 inches but will begin opening when vacuum drops to 6.5 inches or lower. Your individual motor build (number of carbs, cam lift & duration, compression, etc.) will dictate what power valve rating you should use.

Boost referenced carburetors have a modification which supplies a vacuum signal, obtained from *beneath* the supercharger, directly to the power valve. The original base plate vacuum port is blocked and a new passage is drilled through the body of the carburetor. An external vacuum line is used to route the vacuum signal from a port on the intake manifold (below the blower) to the new direct port on the side of the carburetor. Once this is in place, the power valves in the carb can operate normally, smoothly bridging transition from initial idle through throttle opening on to main metering jet draw and WOT.

The original build on my Camaro had a pair of non-boost-referenced Dominators sitting on the blower. In addition to the overly rich eye-and-nose-searing carb settings (running 10.5 power valves on both primaries and secondaries on each Dominator), the lack of smooth transition under throttle made for some interesting stop and go traffic experiences. Think ‘pull the pin and wait for the big noise’. This is *not* the behaviour you want in a blown big block ride with 4.88 gears. Like I said, interesting :o

You can modify your existing carbs to provide a vacuum signal by blocking the original vacuum port and drilling through the side of the throttle body. I considered doing this to mine and had located a shop over in Carson City, NV who quoted $350 per Dominator to rebuild and convert the carbs. Instead, I opted for the newer Holley 4150 HPs because I wanted to change the profile and look of the engine / hardware. If not for the purely cosmetic considerations it would have been well worth the dollars to do the conversion on the original Dominators. So user experience (drive-ability, etc.) and risk mitigation (avoiding a fatal lean condition for your blower motor) are strong incentives to modifying your carbs.

Please feel free to contact me if I can help out with your application.

Here is a current view of my ride:

IMG_0156.jpg


This is what the original build looked like with the 4500 Dominators - very 'in your face':

Blower_Dominator.jpg


Here's a shot of the current build - much cleaner, and a lot better behaved (taken at the Good Guys event in Pleasanton, CA, Mar 2007):

Blower_4150HP.jpg


I have one of the early Weiand blower intakes on this BBC, produced without a boost/vacuum port in the casting. I had to drill and tap a port, as seen below (in the newer manifolds there is a port available back near the distributor):

Boost_Vacuum_Port.jpg


This is a view of the boost-referenced Holleys as installed. I'm certain you could duplicate this on a standard Holley carb pretty easily:

boost_reference.jpg


$350 per carb may be reasonable machine shop charge for a dominator. I did the boost (okay vacuum) referencing myself, following the instructions from the Holley Carb book mentioned in prior posts.
Here are the pictures of what I did. It was really easy... Just requires a bit of thought and some careful drilling (and tapping).
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ournalid=64741

There is a real simple way to do this. If you are not using your ported vac connection on the side of the metering block you can use that passage to feed the power valve well by either milling a slot in the main body or you might be able to just trim the gasket to allow the pressure in. Of course you need to epoxy the stock power valve well feed hole and the ported vac passage in the main body though.

I know this sounds confusing but just look at the back of the metering block. Tha rest is kinda self explanitory.


Eric68,

The boost refed power valve is used alot on blow thrus too. The issue is the press above the carb is a little higher than below, since the bowls are vented to the higher pressure above it can actually push the power valve shut under boost. There are lots of ways to skin a cat though, on theturboforums.com you can find like half a dozen ways to do this ;)


not that anybody uses carbs, but it seems pretty interesting. more or less, low pressure blow through doesn't need much of anything changed in the carb aside from tuning lean/rich under various loads as normal. medium to high need more work
 
If you run a blow through carb with a carb hat you basically just need float (will collapse under the pressure) and pump (more pressure) mods.
 
If you run a blow through carb with a carb hat you basically just need float (will collapse under the pressure) and pump (more pressure) mods.

that's most of what i'm finding out. apparently the floats will be find to at least 10 psi. i'd like to get my hands on a cheapo on to tinker with
 
Carburetor and Intake Manifold Design for Superchargers on Older Motorcycles (victorylibrary.com)


Eaton supercharger data (victorylibrary.com)

despite claiming to be all about motorcycles, this page has some awesome supercharger information.

apparently Eaton's are sized by C.I.D. with the M122 being ~$1200 on ebay, the M112 ~$600, the M90 being ~$300

let's pretend 5.5k is our engine max rpm.

M122 max sustained RPM = 11k = 1,342,000 CID/M * 0.000578 = 775.67 CF/M is theoretically 570hp would give up 2:1 pulley ratio gives us "cruise" engine RPM of 2.2k and supercharger "theoretical" airflow of 310 CFM or about 227hp would put us about 540 lbft

M112 max sus rpm = 12k = 1.344M = 776.8 CFM is the same theoretical 570hp with a 2.18 ratio pulley "cruise" airflow of 310 CFM ... huh

M90 max sus rpm = 12k (but apparently get modded up to 17k?) is 624.2 CFM is about 460hp same 2.18 ratio pulley "cruise" airflow of 249 CFM is 183 hp and about 436 lb-ft

Page Title (mscperformance.com)

this is also an interesting page, it has a chart that shows the M90 requires 28-42 hp to operate depending on if you are running 5 psi or 10 psi

honestly, looking at those charts makes it look like there is almost nothing to gain except for heat from running the M90 at 10 psi instead of 5 psi (well, less than 10% gain inlet airflow for about doubling the heat on average)

n stock configuration, the M122 blower provided a peak of 8.7 pounds of boost, but for our needs, we wanted to find out what was possible by running the smallest blower pulley possible. This meant the installation of a 2.59-inch blower pulley (using a smaller pulley requires machining of the blower snout).

Factory blower and turbo cars are great because additional power is just a pulley change away. Of course, these swaps require proper air/fuel and timing values that are commensurate with the available fuel octane. The combination of the performance tune and swapping on the 2.59 blower pulley brought the peak power output from 443 to 518 hp

Mustang GT500 Supercharger Tests - Twin Screw Vs. TVS (mustangandfords.com)

For 5 psi the M90 requires 20 hp at 10 000 rpm, and increases the air temp by 95 degrees F. The M112 for the same 5 psi requires 25 hp and heats the air an extra 115 degrees. The M90 does a better job - that's why it's on the RUSH blower. The M90 also builds boost quicker.
http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/m5lp-0906-gt500-supercharger-tests
http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/m5lp-0906-gt500-supercharger-tests

Planet Soarer: Estimating Boost and Eaton Pulley Change

I can see a pretty good push for the M112 with a lower RPM engine

with the M122 being a "theoretical" 570 hp and producing on the dyno 520 hp, knowing we lose ~25hp at least just to turn the thing, i'm pretty happy with that estimation.



i'm surprised that the M112 and M122 are so close in flow at their max sustained. despite finding many things that say "charts are easy to find" I actually can't find power/airflow/rpm charts for the M112 and M122 :confused:

this is all spawned from arse_sidewards suggesting the AMR500 and me spending an hour or more thinking about what it would take to rig up 4 of them together :laughing: :flipoff2:
 
Eaton Compressor Maps | Eaton Superchargers (superchargerforums.com)

acorvetteactioncenter-com_specs_c6_2009_zr1_images_64271-gif.554.gif



Flow on the X axis is in cubic meters per hour. 1318 CMH is 776 CFM to show about the sustained max, intermittent then looks to be okay up to 1400 CMH or 824 CFM

significantly lower overall efficiency than a turbo map, but also seem to be more happier at lower pressure levels and overall just different performance. It does seem like the supercharger would be easier to use as a draw through with a carb as it's easier to get close to the intake so less chance for the fuel to go from mist to glob compare to a turbo.
 
EEC-V for last 460's? - Page 2 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (ford-trucks.com)

need to park this somewhere, converting 460 BBF from speed density to mass air flow

I have an EFI 460 in my Kaiser military truck (M-715 1-1/4 ton) that I recently converted to mass-air. The computer and wiring harness came from a 1996 F-350 California/Massachusets emissions truck. The conversion was prompted partly from my desire to have Mass Air (for future engine mods) and need to add wiring/change EEC-IV processor to support my recent swap from C6 to E4OD.

The results were worth the effort. I can't believe how much better the engine runs with the EEC-V processor. The idle is smoother and WAY, WAY more stable. The EEC-IV (1993 harness/'puter) would routinely have hunting idle issues and/or stalling while in gear no matter how I had the TPS, minimum airflow and timing adjusted. I made no adjustments or chages to the engine, just swapped wiring and 'puter and all those problems went away! The other thing that's gone is a tendancy for the speed-density system to run rich at idle. BTW, the motor is internally stock. I have some intake mods (see below) and the exhaust consists of Heddman EFI 460 headers (crap, BTW, Banks are MUCH better), Flowmaster Y pipe (dual 2-1/2" to single 3-1/2"), mandrel bent 3.5" tubing and single Edelbrock 3.5" in/out Victor 409 stainless muffler. I run 39.5" swampers with 5.13's and a Detroit Locker out back. I have no problem lighting up the back tires at will with this setup and outrunning just about anything that isn't a "performance car or truck" from a stop to about 30-40mph. Oh yeah, the motor is a VERY tired 1987 longblock that has low compression in two cylinders and burns about THREE QUARTS of oil per 30 gallons of fuel! (Part of the credit goes to the fact that an M-715 isn't much heavier than a 1/2 ton pickup at 5,500#.)

Here is a short list of parts used to make the swap and some install notes:

1. Engine wiring harness is 1996-97 F-350 7.5L CA/MA emissions.

2. MAF from aforementioned application (6-pin plug) or earlier Lincoln Mark-VIII (4-pin plug). Both are 80mm MAFs and appear to have the same MAF curves. I have two different harnesses made so I can use either MAF and the engine runs identically on both. Also, my research seems to indicate the 1996-97 460 MAF is the same part number as the MAF on later Mark VIII's. Apparently that's when they went to the 6-pin Sumitomo connector. The part # on the 1996 460 MAF is F50F-12B579-AA, which supercedes to F50Y--12B579-AA, which supercedes to F8LZ-12B579-AA (notice the latter is a Lincoln part #?). I did not use the air intake plumbing that came with the MAF, but the airbox lid appears the same as other MAF-equipped F-series trucks and Broncos however the intake elbow and "Y" pipe is larger to accomodate the bigger MAF. I already had a custom intake which consists of a Lincoln Mark-VII (not a typo, Mk7) airbox, 80mm MAF with MAF adapter, 80mm to oval intake elbow from 1999 Lightning, and BBK dual 62mm Throttlebody for 4.6 Cobra/6.8 V10.

3. EEC-V processor from 1996-1997 F-350 or E-350 7.5L CA/MA emissions. The original computer I used was from a F-350, catch code "FEZ2", engineering #F6TF-12A650-AMC, service part #F6TZ-12A650-AMD. That one had a bad SS2 driver and was replaced with one from a 1996 E-350, whose #'s I don't have handy right now. The interesting thing to note here is the 1996-97 460 MAF F-trucks did NOT have air injection, but the vans DID. The F-truck engine harness had plastic caps over the TAB/TAD solenoid plugs. My truck does not have to have air injection so it was removed to make room for a second A/C compressor. When I switched to the van computer I had to add 1.2k ohm resistors across those plugs to eliminate the trouble codes.

4. These computers/applications are OBD-II. That means an OBD-II DLC (data link connector) instead of the EEC-IV "STAR" diagnostic plug. It also means some additional emission control hardware. First there are THREE heated O2 sensors. They are Bank 1 Sensor 1 (Right manifold), Bank 2 Sensor 1 (Left Manifold) and Bank 1 Sensor 2 (after cat). The first two are similar to the 5.0L Mustang setup. The 3rd is for measuring catalyst efficiency. At the present time I don't have the 3rd hooked up and have no problems other than a couple codes that set. I have already wired up a dummy load to simulate the heater circuit which takes care one code. I and still working on a "o2 sensor simulator" which mimics the signal generated by a "real" after cat o2 sensor. These are readily availbale for purchase already, BTW. The O2 sensors are the 4-wire type, some compatible parts #'s include: Bosch (autozone) #15717 $49.99 10" wire, Carquest #75-1649 $49.66 16" wire, Carquest #75-1651 $48.14 6" wire.


5. A PWM EVAP purge valve is used, like other OBD-II Ford trucks instead of the CANP valve on the left side of the engine. There is no fuel tank vapor pressure sensor, however. You can omit this and put a 1.2K dummy load on the plug but it will still set a trouble code. Apparently, the EEC-V opens the EVAP purge at idle and checks for an idle speed fluctuation. Lacking this fluctuation, a trouble code is set. No real problem and easy enough to convert to the new style Evap purge valve.

5. A Flow-sensing EGR system is used instead of the EGR lift sensor, again like other OBD-II Ford applications. This system measures the pressure drop across an engineered restriction in the EGR pipe between the exhaust manifold and EGR valve. The good news is you can rewire the plug and connect it to the old style EGR lift sensor (EVP) and there seem to be no ill effects -- the EGR works, the engine runs fine (no surging or pinging) and no trouble codes are set.

6. A "Misfire Sensor" has been added. It is basically a VRS Crank Position sensor like other Ford engines, except with a 4 tooth wheel instead of 36-1 teeth. The front timing cover was redesigned to provide a mount for this sensor and the 4 tooth reluctor is pressed onto the crank balancer. The new timing cover is easy to identify as it has no fuel pump opening on the left side (which previous timing covers had a block-off plate there). The good news is it is NOT NEEDED for the engine to run as the primary timing signal is still the PIP sensor in the distributor. The bad news is it will set a trouble code if not connected/not functioning. My engine has been running fine without it for months and ignition advance works fine.

7. This system *IS* SFI (sequential injection). The computer is pre-programmed with the correct engine firing order and will work fine as long as your distributor reluctor is the "Signature PIP" type. Most EFI 460's have the correct reluctor, which is easy to identify by 7 wide teeth and one narrow one.

8. This system uses the newer BLACK TFI-IV ignition module, and NOT the Grey one. They are NOT interchangable, but the engine will run with the wrong one but may exhibit hard starting and misfire. The big difference is the BLACK modules rely on the EEC processor to control dwell, the GREY modules control dwell internally as a function of RPM. The other difference is one of the pins changes functions. On the GREY modules, one pin is hot while cranking to increase dwell to make the engine easier to start. The BLACK modules use this pin to internally generate the IDM (Ignition Diagnostic Monitor) signal the EEC uses to make sure the ignition is working correctly.

9. This system uses an airbox-mounted IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor instead of the manifold-mounted one. The connector is the "new" style Sumitomo type instead of the traditional Ford round 2-pin. The two styles of sensors appear to be electrically identical, but failure to move the sensor to the airbox will result in artificially high readings and fueling/timing errors (ie ignition retard when air temp is very high and engine is under heavy load).

10. A few other sensors have also been updated to the new Sumitomo connectors. They are: ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) and TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). These new style sensors are used on most other Fords 1996-up.

11. The EEC-V expects a 8k PPM (pulse per mile) VSS (vehicle speed sensor) signal from the PSOM (speedo module) just like other EEC-IV equipped 1987-1997 F trucks (and unlike other EEC-V applications that use a 16k or 40k PPM VSS signal). It is also compatible with the Ford VRS (variable reluctance sensor) speed sensors. I was able to use a F-450/550 extension housing on my E4OD which has a OSS (Output Shaft Speed) sensor boss in it (and is also a much stronger cast iron part, instead of cast aluminum as the F-150/250/350 housing are). I had a 3 tooth reluctor made that is an interference fit on the E4OD's output shaft (the F-550's had a 18 tooth reluctor and matching splined output shaft). The result is a perfect 8k PPM signal to feed to the EEC-V (and Ford Cruise Control module) that is independant of the transfer case low range gearing. This means the shift scheduling is not affected by using low range even though my truck has two different low range ratios (2:1 or 4:1), none of which match the stock BW t-case ratios.

I have some pics here: Mass air 460 pics
and here: 460 mass air EEC-V and ouput speed sensor

Feel free to ask any questions as I plan to be asking some questions of my own about my engine build-up. The MAF setup came complete with a 1996 460 engine (fan to flexplate) that I'm planning to turn into a firebreathing 513+ci monster.
thumb.gif
 
EEC-V for last 460's? - Page 2 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (ford-trucks.com)

need to park this somewhere, converting 460 BBF from speed density to mass air flow

For what you're doing I'd stick to a carb. It's just not worth the aggravation.

Absolutely do not waste your money fucking around with EEC-IV and EEC-V. You need too much money in hardware to tune EEC-IV and EEC-V support for the early stuff is spotty (i.e. sporty cars only). Also don't fuck around with those 94-95 "basically EEC-V in an EEC-IV form factor" computers. Their tuning support is even worse.

If you really want to stick with EEC-IV you should buy a '93 Mustang EVTM, repin (or butt splice) your ECU connector so the pin-out matches and then buy a Tweecer and figure out how to tune it or buy this for a grand https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...d-mustang-5-0/

Seriously, don't fuck around with poorly supported truck stuff. Ford tried to lock down EEC-IV as much as they could so there's 20+yr of documented workarounds and hacks out there. Most of them are shit compared to the options available to us today. If you really want to ditch the carb then bite the bullet and go for a completely tunable setup (A9L + Tweecer or a MS ECU).

Or just get a TBI EFI system from Holley or FITech. But since every EEC-IV ford comes with a very well engineered MPFI system you should probably not do that.
 
For what you're doing I'd stick to a carb. It's just not worth the aggravation.

Absolutely do not waste your money fucking around with EEC-IV and EEC-V. You need too much money in hardware to tune EEC-IV and EEC-V support for the early stuff is spotty (i.e. sporty cars only). Also don't fuck around with those 94-95 "basically EEC-V in an EEC-IV form factor" computers. Their tuning support is even worse.

If you really want to stick with EEC-IV you should buy a '93 Mustang EVTM, repin (or butt splice) your ECU connector so the pin-out matches and then buy a Tweecer and figure out how to tune it or buy this for a grand https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...d-mustang-5-0/

Seriously, don't fuck around with poorly supported truck stuff. Ford tried to lock down EEC-IV as much as they could so there's 20+yr of documented workarounds and hacks out there. Most of them are shit compared to the options available to us today. If you really want to ditch the carb then bite the bullet and go for a completely tunable setup (A9L + Tweecer or a MS ECU).

Or just get a TBI EFI system from Holley or FITech. But since every EEC-IV ford comes with a very well engineered MPFI system you should probably not do that.

my motorhome is already EFI from the factory. :laughing:

really i was trying to figure out what it would take to make that EFI 460 work well with anything. there is fuckall for support for them it seems, so adding a turbo and possibly going to larger injectors seems like the thing to do. optimized? no. Functional and better than stock? probably :rasta:

the 400 is the F250 is staying carb, that's half the joy of owning it :)
 
Top Back Refresh