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Turbo 5.0L 2000 Ranger

Some updates. Fueled by alcohol. The ranger and myself.

I hope to be able to put 13 psi or so to it this year, should be somewhere between 525 on the low end to 600 on the extremely optimistic end.

My friend with a "675hp sbc" may have finally agreed to dyno this year..
So we may see.,

I also put in some "1.5 inch " spacers in the front cuz I thought it sat a little too low with the 5.0l. haven't put it down to see how realistic that figure is yet.


And I started putting money away to build a 460 for the f250. Should be able to do that this spring. There's a 460 EFI guru out in Tacoma WA, that has a pretty reasonable top end package that he says puts down 400/530 with nothing much more than a zero decked short block. There's nothing the 250 shouldn't pull just fine with that, that isn't out of the realm of what it should even be hooked to anyways
 

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Ummduh said:
And I started putting money away to build a 460 for the f250. Should be able to do that this spring. There's a 460 EFI guru out in Tacoma WA, that has a pretty reasonable top end package that he says puts down 400/530 with nothing much more than a zero decked short block.
Click to expand...

gotta link to that?
 
Thanks for the updates, both relevant to my interests and projects.

Were you able to get anywhere with the stinger ecu on the stock 460? I picked up an 89 and i am not sure how ford did so little with so much

Also having done the turbo sbf would you do it again or do anything different? My pile of a 66 fairlane that needs an engine is curious
 
mjlogan88 said:
Thanks for the updates, both relevant to my interests and projects.

Were you able to get anywhere with the stinger ecu on the stock 460? I picked up an 89 and i am not sure how ford did so little with so much

Also having done the turbo sbf would you do it again or do anything different? My pile of a 66 fairlane that needs an engine is curious
Click to expand...

I..... Somehow am turned off by things that are too popular. Turbo ls's are fucking everywhere. They're the easy button.. and I also fucking hate gm platforms. I spent my entire life working on my friends gm garbage that was always fucking broken, driving to and fro in my ford stuff that just worked with minimal maintenance. I don't know what else to say, my ford stuff, with minimal work, just doesn't break down like my friends gm junk. I also have a spare 460 and a spare virgin bore 69 351W in the garage for future use...

So I havent reached the end of the stock 302 yet, but I'm gunna give it all the beans I have the fuel for this year and find out. Everybody seems have 1k hp these days, but for real, 400hp in this thing is fucking silly. I'm still aiming for 500 to the tire, but as is, it's absolutely stupid and nearly uncontrollable.


Anyways, yea, been plugging away at the stinger setup. I love it. I love tinkering and I love having a reason to tinker. It's endless. I could also leave it alone and it'd be 98% fine, but that isn't me. I haven't been driving it but I am going to sell the DD that I absolutely hate to pay for the engine rebuild for it.

It is fucking backwards that I have a ms3x in the 250 not being utilized hardly at all, and microsquirt junk in the toy that I am out of I/o already and need to upgrade. But ultimately I didn't gain anything cuz my engine is so wore out. I have all the typical bolt on stuff and it gained me absolutely nothing. I just thought of it as steps towards what I ultimately wanted.

Edit: I was always paranoid of the stock Ford stuff failing and leaving me stranded, there is a solid pattern of this stuff failing due to age. I didn't like the unknown. It did fail once already for fortunately it did not leave me stranded.


Edit: the only thing I am going to change on the stinger setup is adding the real time clock to the system. Without it, the sd card logging is fucking useless imo, all the logs are the same time and date. So if you use it, all the saved logs (on the internal SD card) are useless, as there is no way to differentiate which one is which. Stinger doesn't mention this at all, which I see as being a huge oversight.

Edit: edit: ultimately, ultimately, Ultimately, ULTIMATELY. Lol
 
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Haven't done much.

I think the e85 soaked up a bunch of water over the winter. the first drive started out good but went south quickly, lots of missing and sputtering.

Drained 10g out of it out and put some fresh in and it helped a lot.

Need to drive it some more and get the old gas out.

Still fighting what I suspect is a vref issue. My fuel pressure sensor gradually drops pressure as I run it although the mechanical guage stayes good.

I'm at 58psi base now and after an hour of runtime it shows ~41psi. Mechanical gauge stays consistent. I'm thinking about swapping vref for the fuel pressure over to the trans controller. Or the whole sensor and transmit over can. I think the quadspark is overloading vref. Still have to play with it. But it's back to roasting the tires at the slightest hint of throttle. And I haven't even tried to play with the boost controller yet, it's still at 6psi.
 

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Do you tink 5v ref is slowing drifting? or perhaps the ref GND is crusty someplace. 5V should not drift.

Were is you Irate sticker?
 
rattle_snake said:
Do you tink 5v ref is slowing drifting? or perhaps the ref GND is crusty someplace. 5V should not drift.

Were is you Irate sticker?
Click to expand...

I didn't get one!

Yea, I kinda think I'm over current on the vref and pulling it down. The quadspark module calls for 100ohm pull-up from vref x2, which seems really excessive but that's what it calls for..

I checked my vref voltage at one point last year when I was having problems with the sensor and I was down at 4.74v, which is right at the bottom end limit. I'll have to monitor it better.

But at the same time, if vref was sagging, I'd think I'd be having issues with everything that's using vref.

Using vref is:

MAP
TPS
ethanol sensor
Quadspark (2x pull-up)
Fuel pressure sensor
 
Been trying to get some enthusiasm going for this, but that hasn't been very easy for some reason.

Anyways, haven't had much luck with what I thought was bad fuel. It may have hurt the injectors, or now reading some other stuff, these injectors just might not like 58psi base. I'm not sure.

I drove it about an hour today and besides shitty low load, it ran good. I drained the tank and put 5g fresh e in it, and have an hour or so of messing around on that. Then I drove it about 15mins away and got another 10g. doesn't seem to have helped. It runs great at WOT, and my DC is down to 60% (was in the mid 80's), but it hates idle and most low load.

But my VREF issues all seem to be fixed, my ethanol sensor didn't freak out the entire time, though my fuel pressure sensor hates the heat. I have another brand on the way, or I'll have to move it off the fuel rail.

And I really need to change the oil.
 
Turned out that the shitty running was either bad plugs, bad wires, or a combination of both.

Swapped them out and it's running great. Drove it about an hour the other day and it's all good. At 6200 rpm, max DC is only 60%. So that's looking good.

I tried to program the boost controller and it didn't move boost at all, so I gotta figure that out. In theory, with 6lbs on the spring, I should be able to hit 12lbs boost, and it didn't budge.

Might have some shitty hoses as they're just the basic vacuum hoses from the parts sotry and they're soft as shit. While fucking with it I found some fittings loose, so I'll go over everything here probably tomorrow. 6psi was enough for a while as it's all tire smoke anyways, but I'd like to see what I can get the engine to handle anyways. I will eventually buy tires that can put some power down.
 
:eek::eek:

Uh, I got boost control working

Holy fuck. I wasn't expecting it because I didn't really try to fix any part of it, but I jumped on it and Wham! Hit spark cut north of an indicated 16psi. Giant spark cut blast. I just have the whole table at 100%DC because I couldn't get it to work last time, using a 3 port mac valve.

Once I figured out what was going on I started watching it and it went right to 16psi and I had to let off as I don't have ANY part of that tuned and I didn't have the laptop with me , was just taking the kid for a joyride.

Anyways, this thing HAULS at 14-16 psi using right foot boost control. I downshifted to 2nd at 35 and it accelerated harder than about any vehicle I've been in.
 
Ummduh said:
:eek::eek:

Uh, I got boost control working

Holy fuck. I wasn't expecting it because I didn't really try to fix any part of it, but I jumped on it and Wham! Hit spark cut north of an indicated 16psi. Giant spark cut blast. I just have the whole table at 100%DC because I couldn't get it to work last time, using a 3 port mac valve.

Once I figured out what was going on I started watching it and it went right to 16psi and I had to let off as I don't have ANY part of that tuned and I didn't have the laptop with me , was just taking the kid for a joyride.

Anyways, this thing HAULS at 14-16 psi using right foot boost control. I downshifted to 2nd at 35 and it accelerated harder than about any vehicle I've been in.
Click to expand...
Awesome man. Isnt it funny how you just want to keep your foot in it but you know you're headed into no mans land on your VE table?

Actually having boost control behaves a lot different than just running it on gate. Nice job on getting it working, I know its not straightforward on a micro
 
mjlogan88 said:
Awesome man. Isnt it funny how you just want to keep your foot in it but you know you're headed into no mans land on your VE table?

Actually having boost control behaves a lot different than just running it on gate. Nice job on getting it working, I know its not straightforward on a micro
Click to expand...

Might have just been the excitement, but it sure seemed like it took a lot of the boost lag out of it. The boost was just right freaking there.

The micro really only has a single boost DC table, doesn't have any of the fancy stuff. I can control DC vs tps vs rpm.

So I can't say I guess that I have boost control working yet, only that I was able to get more than spring pressure, but that's sorta a prerequisite to boost control, lol.

The whole table is at 100% from just trying to get it to work, so now I can start playing with it. Hopefully. I tried to make the ve table rich so if I ever went into that area it'd be somewhat safe.

Edit: I'm wrong, there is some type of closed loop boost control as well. I haven't looked into that yet.
 
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Went a car show last night that was doing 330ft drags. Had an absolute blast. I still haven't bought tires, and just roasted them for the entire 330ft. My buddy that went with me, his stuff wasn't running great so he let me borrow his 275 drag radials. Holy game changer!

I was still spinning up top, but I could actually get power down. All in all, I did probably 10-12 runs. That awd audi s4 obviously left me on the line, but I almost caught up at the end. If it was an 1/8 I would have passed him.

I definitely need a torque converter, (well and tires). Was hitting around 60-68mph in 330 ft.


Edit: just remembered, the borrowed tires were taller than my speedo calibration. 1.5" taller. So 68mph=around 72.








 
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Anybody in here familiar with using launch control on megasquirt? I think I get the general gist of it but I don't know if what I want to do is gunna bend rods or something, lol.


Also, any suggestions for torque converters that aren't $1k+? Do I need a triple disk? I really think I don't.
 
Ummduh said:
Anybody in here familiar with using launch control on megasquirt? I think I get the general gist of it but I don't know if what I want to do is gunna bend rods or something, lol.


Also, any suggestions for torque converters that aren't $1k+? Do I need a triple disk? I really think I don't.
Click to expand...
Not in Wi but someplace like this can usually whip you up a no frills stall converter pretty cheap.
It won't be whiz-bang or nothing but will do the job.


Do you have a WIT (whatever it takes transmission parts) up there? They have decent stall converters too.
Something like this at WIT.

www.bcawebstore.com

DYNAMIC DF58 REMAN AODE/4R70W/4R70E/4R75W/4R75E TORQUE CONVERTER

DYNAMIC DF58 REMAN AODE/4R70W/4R70E/4R75W/4R75E TORQUE CONVERTER
www.bcawebstore.com
 
Got my nitto 555r2's mounted in a 275/50/15, and gave the boost control a little sumthin.
NOW I'm out of fuel.17.7 psi, 99.8% duty cycle, and dropping fuel pressure.

Screenshot 2023-10-15 191118.jpg
I guess I have to turn it down [IMG]

bottom graph, blue line is fuel pressure, should be rising, not falling. Still managed to maintain 12.2 afr (gas scale), commanding 12.0.

That's probably a lil spicy for a stock explorer 5.0 anyways.
It was pretty chilly outside tonight, ~50f, so not really were these tires want to be, but still made a huge difference. Even with almost 18 psi I didn't feel like I was on the edge of death for once.
 
I kinda think I ran out of pump moreso than injector. I'm running 58psi base to make up for too small of injectors which makes the pump smaller (higher pressure = lower flow at the pump).

I think my fuel sender shit the bed anyways, so I may swap the 340lph pump out for the 450 hellcat or the 5?0 and try again. I can't run those in my current pump module because of that bulbous end they have, I'd have to swap it out to an older style. I'm a little concerned about running this stuff in an unbaffled tank though.

At the same time, I'm sure the injectors are pretty much out of capacity too, or really close behind. I want to say at 14psi I was at about 68-70% duty cycle. Ah hell now that I put this all together, I'm just out of everything. Damn.

Boost is freaking addictive.

It would be nice to have boost by gear and whatnot as well, but I have to upgrade the microsquirt out for a ms3 or better to get that functionality.
 
Not much to add but I agree from a theory standpoint. If you were just out of injector the pressure would stay up.

If you are dropping fuel pressure and getting up there in duty cycle you might really only need more pump, as your pressure drops so does flow so it will be hard to say if the % is accurate until you get pressure solid.

Maybe do a simple surge tank to help with the stock tank.
 
How many horsepower you pushing? You might be near the limits of the stock pump.
 
I wonder how much more volume my stock fuel rails are gunna take too, lol.

arse_sidewards said:
How many horsepower you pushing? You might be near the limits of the stock pump.
Click to expand...
Optimistically 18psi = ~650hp lol. realistically 18psi ~ 575-625.

I have an aeromotive stealth 340 with -6 lines.
Injectors are 62's @39psi, but I'm running 58psi base, so they're more like 72# (E85...)
 
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rattle_snake said:
the block is close to the limit at those numbers...
Click to expand...
Funny isn't it, I'm more worried about splitting the block than the stock hypereutectic pistons or rods.

I say more worried but.. I'm not really worried. I kinda want to see what it'll all take. The only real question is do I start over with an aftermarket 8.2 block or switch to the 69 351w block I have when it does go. It'll probably be similar money, just spent different.
 
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