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Turbo 5.0L 2000 Ranger

Ummduh said:
Funny isn't it, I'm more worried about splitting the block than the stock hypereutectic pistons or rods.

I say more worried but.. I'm not really worried. I kinda want to see what it'll all take. The only real question is do I start over with an aftermarket 8.2 block or switch to the 69 351w block I have when it does go. It'll probably be similar money, just spent different.
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Get one of the early modulars that has the 5.0 pattern. They can make some stupid power if you force feed them air.

And the Lincoln LSs they come in are sub-$1k cars now.
 
Thatg9659 said:
You’re talking backwards out of your ass now.

The Lincoln LS, came with V6 or V-8 neither a modular. Duratech based iirc.
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Maybe not the LS then. I'm pretty sure it was one of the RWD cars and not the 'Vic but maybe I'm wrong. In any case, it's whatever Lincoln it was that got the first few years of 4.whatever Modular V8. That's got the SBF bell pattern and people have pushed it to some real stupid HP numbers with boost.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Maybe not the LS then. I'm pretty sure it was one of the RWD cars and not the 'Vic but maybe I'm wrong. In any case, it's whatever Lincoln it was that got the first few years of 4.whatever Modular V8. That's got the SBF bell pattern and people have pushed it to some real stupid HP numbers with boost.
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There’s no maybe about it:homer:

All of the early modulars had a small block Ford pattern. was introduced in 1991 Lincoln’s first.
 
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Thatg9659 said:
You’re talking backwards out of your ass now.

The Lincoln LS, came with V6 or V-8 neither a modular. Duratech based iirc.
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I don't remember which v6, but the v8 was a 3.9l that, iirc, was jag based or something like that.

Anyways, weird suggestion regardless

Going to an aftermarket 8.2 and aluminum heads(needed either way), but not have to change the hot side, will take as much power as I could ever hope to make. My janky headers will probably become the choke point. ..

351w, stock block will take all the power I could ever want to make, but the hot side could/will be an issue.

Swapping to a modular just accomplishes... Starting over with pretty much everything? I don't see the upside.

Edit: hell, I also have a 460 sitting here not doing anything. I still don't see where the modular fits in.
 
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Ummduh said:
Swapping to a modular just accomplishes... Starting over with pretty much everything? I don't see the upside.
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More modern aluminum v8 that breathes better and spins faster and uses the same trans.

Ummduh said:
Edit: hell, I also have a 460 sitting here not doing anything.
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Way more upside but way more expense to that. So you should do it. :flipoff2:
 
Ummduh said:
I don't remember complaining about the lack of any of that supposed upside?

I can't control what I have now.
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Well if you split the block you're kind of in the market for a new everything so might as well start with a fancier base for the second one.
 
Ah, I never posted up my winter wish list.

Priority #1 was the converter, but the wife is quitting her job soon to focus on her own business, so not sure if I'll get that done this winter.

IMG20240127175458.jpg
 
Thatg9659 said:
J mod?
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One of the engineers that designed the aod/aod-e, first name is Jerry.

He got on some forums some time back and documented how these things are supposed to be calibrated vs what the other fucks higher up thought "the people wanted". It became known is the J-mod.

By 2001 (this transmission year) standards it's really minimal, back in the early 90s it was a bigger deal.
 
:shaking::shaking:

Driveshaft has hit the cab at least once. Maybe putting in the c-notches isn't a great idea. Yet

It's .125" wall aluminum, shouldn't have tweaked it. Maybe it did and that's my vibe problem. Once I get the trans back together I'll run it on the stands.

IMG20240129192248.jpg
 
Screenshot_2024-03-13-18-16-19-66_3aea4af51f236e4932235fdada7d1643.jpg

Most expensive single item I've bought for the Ranger. Not sure on stall yet, going to talk to them and let them recommend.

$1500 converter in a $300 transmission :barf:

The lifetime warranty covers any converter damage, engine or trans can take it out and it's covered. Was a $200 upgrade.

Triple disc so I can use lockup under power.

I've got a ms3x ecu to put in at some point which means a full rewire of the engine harness. Sequential, can do whatever coils you want so I can then do some individual cylinder trimming, and tons of other stuff.
 
Ummduh said:
Screenshot_2024-03-13-18-16-19-66_3aea4af51f236e4932235fdada7d1643.jpg

Most expensive single item I've bought for the Ranger. Not sure on stall yet, going to talk to them and let them recommend.

$1500 converter in a $300 transmission :barf:

The lifetime warranty covers any converter damage, engine or trans can take it out and it's covered. Was a $200 upgrade.

Triple disc so I can use lockup under power.

I've got a ms3x ecu to put in at some point which means a full rewire of the engine harness. Sequential, can do whatever coils you want so I can then do some individual cylinder trimming, and tons of other stuff.
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Hard to get around a good converter unless you build your own and can get parts to do it.
 
CarterKraft said:
Hard to get around a good converter unless you build your own and can get parts to do it.
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Yep. That initial cost hurts though.

As long as I don't change transmission platforms this should hopefully be the only one I need to buy. They said restalls are around $350-$600 depending on what you need done.
 
We have a local shop that has always been very reasonably priced and knowledgeable, I am not sure how current they are on power adders etc. but they do a ton of the. We use them for our industrial converters too, no issues.

 
Trans is out, what a bitch. Had to cut an ear off, and I'm definitely gunna have to beat the floor to be able to put it back in.

The case connecter is full of fluid so I gotta change that too. Which means taking the vb off again.

Full awn destroyed the garage. I think every wrench I own is on the floor right now. I ended up having to use a stubby wrench, with a pry bar holding it on the bolt head ( of course it was the only bolt in shitty shape) , and another pry bar to push on the wrench, was lots of fun.

IMG20240317150133.jpg
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IMG20240317153053.jpg
 
Ummduh said:
Trans is out, what a bitch. Had to cut an ear off, and I'm definitely gunna have to beat the floor to be able to put it back in.

The case connecter is full of fluid so I gotta change that too. Which means taking the vb off again.

Full awn destroyed the garage. I think every wrench I own is on the floor right now. I ended up having to use a stubby wrench, with a pry bar holding it on the bolt head ( of course it was the only bolt in shitty shape) , and another pry bar to push on the wrench, was lots of fun.

IMG20240317150133.jpg
IMG20240317152932.jpg
IMG20240317153053.jpg
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You ever seen the guys transfer the bell housing bolt pattern to the transmission hump and drill big holes to fill with grommets?
Easy access to the bolts in the future, I always wanted to do that.
 
CarterKraft said:
You ever seen the guys transfer the bell housing bolt pattern to the transmission hump and drill big holes to fill with grommets?
Easy access to the bolts in the future, I always wanted to do that.
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Ranger is easy. Long-ass extension and hit it from approx the tailhousing area.
 
CarterKraft said:
You ever seen the guys transfer the bell housing bolt pattern to the transmission hump and drill big holes to fill with grommets?
Easy access to the bolts in the future, I always wanted to do that.
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The bellhousing hits the floor pan real bad, that's the biggest issue. That one bolt was an outlier as it was stripped out/rounded off all sorts of ways before I even got anything on it.

I'm gunna change that bolt out to something different. But yea. I'm down with hacking whatever needs to be hacked to make next time easier:smokin:

Considering cutting that whole corner of the floor out. We'll see what the beer says on Saturday
 
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Ummduh said:
Sure if it was a stock drive train in the stock location. Unless you got an extension with about a 3" Z in it, there was nothing getting on it.
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5.0 sploders are the same method. Are you not copying that location?

I'd think long and hard about cutting the doghouse out of a van and grafting it onto your firewall.
 
arse_sidewards said:
5.0 sploders are the same method. Are you not copying that location?

I'd think long and hard about cutting the doghouse out of a van and grafting it onto your firewall.
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No I put the engine/trans where they needed to be, stock shit be damned.

Also, you have a lot of weird suggestions lol
 
Ummduh said:
No I put the engine/trans where they needed to be, stock shit be damned.

Also, you have a lot of weird suggestions lol
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I never said it would open with the dash in.:laughing:

I have dealt with vans a lot and hate doing sheetmetal work from scratch. When all you have is a hammer...
 
Transmission went right in. Like way too easy.

I actually went and asked the wife if she sweet talked the damn thing.
Literally took longer to drill out a hose clamp than to get the trans mated to the engine.

Spent a ton of time re con jiggering all the different an hoses.

Tomorrow I just gotta get the trans drain plug fixered and the fuel feed line figured out. Might have to order more -6 hose cuz the new placement puts it about 8" short. I can probably make due for a fire up though.

Not having studs on the converter makes a huge difference. New one takes bolts.
 
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