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TTB Camber Bushing Puller

FleshEater

Ordinary Average Guy
Joined
May 21, 2020
Member Number
832
Messages
3,453
Loc
Pennsylvania
I’m kicking my own ass for this, as I should have added adjustable camber bushings when I had the entire front axle torn down. I put in factory front springs that were labeled HD...did not anticipate it leveling the front of the Bronco.

These camber bushings have been beat on with chisels, punches, sledged all around, heat put to them, Deep Creep, they just won’t come out now.

Found this camber bushing puller, but never heard of ToolSource.com. Can anyone recommend them? Anyone ever use one of these tools? Looks like a good thing to have. The other one I found was $272 for just the tool, which is way too much coin.

https://www.toolsource.com/castercamber-adjustment-c-433_554/ford-oe-sleeve-puller-p-116733.html
 
I got nuthin on that company, but the adjustable camber bushes rock!
fixed my 93 ttb 50 right up
 
I never had any luck getting them out without separating the knuckle. I’ve heard that they are supposed to come out, but I always ended up taking a pickle fork to them.

Hammer and a punch works titties once the knuckle is off though:flipoff2:

Yeah, if I could get these brand new ball joints to fall the fuck out it’d be easy peasy. I don’t know if they’re at such a bad angle they’re locked up or what. I even turned the castle nut around and tried beating down on the top all ball joint stem. All I did was mess up a couple threads.
 
Stop being lazy and pull the knuckle. It's a split bushing with a taper rammed into it and then cranked with a bolt. You're stupid if you expect that to come off on its own. You might be able to spin it in the beam with a big socket which is what the alignment shops do.
 
Stop being lazy and pull the knuckle. It's a split bushing with a taper rammed into it and then cranked with a bolt. You're stupid if you expect that to come off on its own. You might be able to spin it in the beam with a big socket which is what the alignment shops do.

There is nothing to spin with a socket. I don’t think you understand what I’m working with. It’s a 0 degree bushing.

Also, the tool is designed to pull the bushing out with the ball joints installed...:homer:
 
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There is nothing to spin with a socket. I don’t think you understand what I’m working with. It’s a 0 degree bushing.

My point was that the taper is forcing the bushing to expand and it's going to take a serious amount of force to move it at all let alone pull it out with the ball joint.

Also, the tool is designed to pull the bushing out with the ball joints installed...:homer:

:shaking:

And in a few hours the "morons from the commiefornia desert" will wake up and tell you how you can remove leaf spring bolts with a crescent wrench and should be able to pry the bushing up with a screwdriver.

I don't think you understand what happens when a taper gets rammed into a split bushing. That bushing is being forced outward into the sleeve by a heck of a lot of force. You need to remove that ball joint (and therefore the knuckle) so that the bushing can compress inward if you want to get the bushing out. Those specialty puller tools simply don't work with even the slightest amount of rust. Maybe if you grease the bushing and the ball joint when you reinstall it will work next time but there is no way in hell you're pulling that bushing out with the ball joint forcing it into its bore and with the body of the ball joint holding on to the knuckle with however many years of rust. The rust acting on all the components increases the interference (stretching the outer sleeve) fit between the components. You need to remove something in order to make space.

Quit trying to be lazy and remove the ball joints and knuckle. You're working on a 30yo vehicle with some amount of rust. Shit isn't on easy mode. Stop expecting shit to work like it does on easy mode.
 
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My point was that the taper is forcing the bushing to expand and it's going to take a serious amount of force to move it at all let alone pull it out with the ball joint.



:shaking:

And in a few hours the "morons from the commiefornia desert" will wake up and tell you how you can remove leaf spring bolts with a crescent wrench and should be able to pry the bushing up with a screwdriver.

I don't think you understand what happens when a taper gets rammed into a split bushing. That bushing is being forced outward into the sleeve by a heck of a lot of force. You need to remove that ball joint (and therefore the knuckle) so that the bushing can compress inward if you want to get the bushing out. Those specialty puller tools simply don't work with even the slightest amount of rust. Maybe if you grease the bushing and the ball joint when you reinstall it will work next time but there is no way in hell you're pulling that bushing out with the ball joint forcing it into its bore and with the body of the ball joint holding on to the knuckle with however many years of rust. The rust acting on all the components increases the interference (stretching the outer sleeve) fit between the components. You need to remove something in order to make space.

Quit trying to be lazy and remove the ball joints and knuckle. You're working on a 30yo vehicle with some amount of rust. Shit isn't on easy mode. Stop expecting shit to work like it does on easy mode.

Thanks for nothing.

Truck is from Texas. When I had the whole axle torn apart I could lift them out with my fingers. Hence why I said I should have replaced then when I had it all torn down before.

The tool will most likely work.

Also, you can go fuck yourself with the lazy comments.
 
Loosen ball joint nuts if you havent already, and smash the fuck out of the axle side of the C until the shock pops the ball joints free. Axle shaft will probably bind up a little but fuck it. Should gain you the little you need to get the bushing out. This is one of those awkward times arse_sidewards is half right, the upper BJ is pinching the bushing more than likely.
 
Loosen ball joint nuts if you havent already, and smash the fuck out of the axle side of the C until the shock pops the ball joints free. Axle shaft will probably bind up a little but fuck it. Should gain you the little you need to get the bushing out. This is one of those awkward times arse_sidewards is half right, the upper BJ is pinching the bushing more than likely.

Already tried that. Had the bottom nut loosened about a 1/2” above the bottom of the knuckle, top castle nut off and turned around backwards. Myself, and my dad, beat the fuck out of that knuckle everywhere, and on top of the ball joint on top to try and free them from the knuckle.

No dice.

So tearing the whole motherfucker down is going to do what? Lose the weight of the wheel bearings, hub, calipers, and rotors? Shit still ain’t gonna fall out like a miracle.

I’m at the point of needing a puller of some sort. If I use anything on those ball joints I’ll probably ruin the new joints and have to re-do all the work again.

Just another one of those fuck these TTB moments.
 
This is the side I beat the fuck out of. Honestly, I’m afraid of cracking any of the metal on this taking full swings with a sledge to drop those ball joints out.

Local 4WD shop that builds desert runners, crawlers, and SEMA trucks every year said to run it down and they’ll see if they have a puller to use on this POS.

They build my struts when I need a big ass compressor to do it and are always good with their work.

882B6158-8BB3-43B9-BA5D-881D9FDF379D.jpeg
 
I have had to back off both ball joint nuts, unseat the ball joint tapers and then run the truck around the block before to help get those bushings out.
 
With a damn bottle jack, piece of I beam, and couple lengths of chain. The bushings are a lot less barbaric :laughing:

Well, I thought about just using limiting straps to fix it, so I guess that idea was on par. :laughing:

Your screen name sums up how I feel.
 
I have used the Harbor Freight ball joint press on those, If you have the spindle out it's pretty easy. Impact that fucker down and get ready for the pop.
 
Just a thought, but if are banging on the top of a C, could it be deflecting/absorbing the shock since it isnt supported? Or this is 2wd and I haven’t seen one forever, so I’m talking out my bunghole.

Definitely have that with tie rods, once the end is supported a good hit pops them right off.
 
Just a thought, but if are banging on the top of a C, could it be deflecting/absorbing the shock since it isnt supported? Or this is 2wd and I haven’t seen one forever, so I’m talking out my bunghole.

Definitely have that with tie rods, once the end is supported a good hit pops them right off.

I don’t know. I’m going to get it in the air tonight and work on getting those ball joints to drop out. If nothing works I might try a separator. I know if those ball joint stems will let loose it will make life easier, but I’ve never fought so hard with all new parts to get them to let loose.

Figure I’ve got probably 4-6 weeks before my antique plate shows up, so I can just take my time and try not to get pissed off enough to sell this thing.
 
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