Build TrashE

[Dan]

Well i just read this cover to cover and I dig it, Fab work is fantastic!
Keep the updates coming
Nice shop!

At least I won't feel as bad looking at your fab work. Its demoralizing to be out fabbed by someone in a dirt floor tent.

Well at least I wasn't the only one thinking that....

Thanks guys!




I finally scored the axle I need for this truck. I’ve had some trouble finding one of these locally for some reason.

It’s from a 2000 drw pickup.

The wms on these is a little over 72”.

And since it is from a drw it already has longer wheel studs.

Just an edit to clarify the longer wheel studs are metric .

 

[posford]

Cool project!

 

[Dan]

Thanks to the user who offered to send me their DXF files for leaf spring sliders, after the site had trouble your message was gone and I forgot your user name.


I ended up building this generic set in the garage.

1/4” p&o for the box structure and the slider rails are 1/4” AR400.

Fitting up the rails, UHMW is for mock up

Clamped to the table for welding.

Went ahead and fused the inside to seal everything up.

Added a couple more pieces of 1/4” to box them up.

Then mig welded everything together.

Tack welded to the chassis, these will be one of the very last things I weld.

The first of many cycles.

 

[fl0w3n]

Do you keep the UHMW tab as the slider piece or what's the actual sliding piece going to be made out of?

 

[Dan]

Do you keep the UHMW tab as the slider piece or what's the actual sliding piece going to be made out of?

I might run it for a little bit to see how it does, I might also build an anti-wrap bar and use the uhmw there.

What I plan to use long term is this piece of 932 bearing bronze cut into 2x2 squares. They will ride on the ar400 slider rails.

 

[Dan]

When I cut all the ifs off the frame I just trimmed the factory engine x-member to fit the axle underneath. Basically got the axle to fit so I could make the truck a roller.

Took some quick measurements of the factory clearance then tacked a temporary x-member across the frame and removed the rest of this oily junk.

 

[Dan]

I had to cut these tube connectors down so they would work with .250 tube.

The majority of the x-member is 1.5x.250” DOM. I bent a piece of 1.5x.120” tube first but didn’t like the way things were going so I used mitre joints instead and like the way it came out.

Coming together.

 

[Dan]

Basically made a cradle for the frame side engine mounts using 1/4” plate and then connected my tubes to that.

That’s all 1/4 material.

 

[Dan]

Added some lacing using 1.5x.120 DOM.

The chunk tucks in between the cross member. A little bit tight but not too bad at full bump.

 

[Dan]

This part is removable. Only picture with it unbolted is me being dumb trying to secure it before welding.

 

[Dan]

New and old steering gear.

From psc

 

[Dan]

Got the steering box located.

The frame jogs in and back out where the old box was which makes for a fun install. The back bolt sleeves through both sides of the factory frame and the front 2 bolts only go through the inside portion.

 

[Dan]

I used some of this 1” tube to sleeve the steering gear bolts. That little piece on the bolt is a spacer psc sent with the box, I don’t need it.

It’s a pretty decent fit, closer tolerance and thicker than what it replaced.

 

[350TacoZilla]

Good idea on the crossmember. I'm sure others have done it but I don't remember seeing it so that's an idea I'll have to tuck away to steal lol

 

[Dan]

The frame had to be notched a little bit to clear part of the box.

Cut some 3/16” plate to start the inner frame reinforcement/mounting location for the box.

Nice round holes

 

[Dan]

Opening up the holes for the mounting bolt access.

The 1” tube sleeves are welded everywhere they pass through the frame, the bottom frame notch helped a ton for getting in there with the welder.

Started welding the inside plate. Added a little cover piece at the end to box in the top.

 

[Dan]

Made a little thingy to tie in the inner and outer frame where the bolt goes through.

Bolted it on there.

But it wasn’t right.

 

[Dan]

So I made it look like this.

Put it back on.

And now it looks like this.

 

[Dan]

Extended the steering rod about 5 inches. Everything clears nice and tight.

 

[rattle_snake]

Slick work on the box mount.

 

[Dan]

Capped the bottom frame rails.

Steering box mount in there. There will be one plate from the steering box mount to the 4x4 cross member in front. I just need access to the weld joints before covering everything with said plate.

Spring clears at bump, I had to touch that weld with a grinder to smooth it out so it’s close.

 

[Dan]

Tie rod and drag link are pretty straight forward. Drag link basically sits flat at RH.

Tie rod at full lock clears the diff cover.

Drag link with both sides at bump. Tie rod is on the top side of the solid knuckles.

 

[Dan]

Front shocks next. 285-24-106

Test fitting with the axle fully articulated and the steering at full lock. All kinds of room under there.

Using these $40 ford shocks mounts made this easier. Everything clears at droop. These are 14” travel shocks and there is 13.5” of shock shaft showing here.

 

[Njt]

That was me that offered the DXF files. Looks like you came up with something pretty slick! Nice to see another leaf converted 2nd gen.

Finally drove mine out of the garage under its own power today.

Great job on the frame trim and steering box mount. Looks really good!

 

[Penetrode Offroad]

here.

Dont you know you are not supposed to use lift blocks in the front.... especially wood blocks

 

[Dan]

That was me that offered the DXF files. Looks like you came up with something pretty slick! Nice to see another leaf converted 2nd gen.

Finally drove mine out of the garage under its own power today.

Great job on the frame trim and steering box mount. Looks really good!

Dude sick! It must feel good driving it! That thing is badass!

 

[Dan]

Dont you know you are not supposed to use lift blocks in the front.... especially wood blocks

It will be fine after I carve a degree shim into it.

 

[Dan]

The shock tower going into the engine compartment was getting into the air intake box a little bit. So I took it out and cut the part that is marked.

Flipped the cut out piece over and tacked that into place.

Then welded it with the tig. The triangle cut out piece on the side is a drain since the old one is now useless.

 

[Dan]

Kind of hard to get a picture but that’s the shock tower and air filter box.

 

[Dan]

Making the front bump stop mounts. Packaging them right under the shock towers and tying them together.

Other side. Ended up having to notch the passenger frame a little bit for the drag link.