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Traction Off Road - 17x9 Friction Double Beadlocks

Dookey

WINNAR
Joined
May 11, 2020
Member Number
17
Messages
229
Loc
Thornton, CO
I started my own wheel company. :grinpimp:

Introducing the flow formed 17x9 Friction Double Beadlock.

  • 17x9 with 4.5" Backspacing.
  • We can customize your wheels however you like. The base wheel has a diamond machine finish. We can powder coat, paint match, mirror shine, brushed finish, and just about anything you can think of. If you have a desired finish to a wheel we can make it happen.
  • This wheel uses a machined double bead lock insert to retain both beads.
  • 1/2" Socket Cap screws and flange nuts for easily sourced hardware.
  • Externally installed valve stems in case you knock one off on the trail. Easily replaceable.
  • Simple o-ring for easy install.

The diamond finished wheels are $550/ea shipped inside the United States. Additional finishes are extra depending on what we do.

I keep everything in stock for quick turn around times.

There are a few ways to get in touch to order.

Call the shop at 720.596.4861.
Email: [email protected]
Website is open 24 hours a day. Traction Off Road

If you have any questions or if I can help in any way please let me know. I'll be adding more pics along the way.



Friction5x5.jpg


RedConeTesting.jpg


SFF1.jpg
 
Last edited:

Dookey

WINNAR
Joined
May 11, 2020
Member Number
17
Messages
229
Loc
Thornton, CO
This is the back half of the wheel. Notice the easy install oring groove. No getting it wrong.

WBHF.jpg



The front half of the wheel is super simple.

WFH.jpg
 

Provience

Kill!
Joined
Jul 8, 2009
Member Number
15
Messages
8,075
Loc
Thurston County, WA
sweet :smokin:

what do they weigh fully assembled?

do they shit for free with a 1/2" socket cap driver for a 1/2" or 3/8" socket wrench? 3/8" hex is a common stopping point, sending the 1/2" driver would be a huge plus as a default/opt-out kind of thing.
 

Dookey

WINNAR
Joined
May 11, 2020
Member Number
17
Messages
229
Loc
Thornton, CO
sweet :smokin:

what do they weigh fully assembled?

do they shit for free with a 1/2" socket cap driver for a 1/2" or 3/8" socket wrench? 3/8" hex is a common stopping point, sending the 1/2" driver would be a huge plus as a default/opt-out kind of thing.

8 lug application is 47ish pounds fully assembled depending on what insert we have to use. The insert width varies on the tire used.

The socket cap screws require the 3/8" socket driver but I don't want you to impact those on install. I prefer everyone to torque the flange nuts on the back half of the wheel. I use serrated flange nuts to hold the torque. If you hammer dog the socket cap screws you'll chew through the coating and they will rust in short order. So hold the bolt with a ratchet while you torque the flange nuts.

I also have an easy install kit that uses a bearing setup to make install simple. I felt like keeping as much weight off the wheel was a benefit. So the hardware that holds the wheel halves together is only long enough to do that. I figure the wheel will spend 99% of its life installed. So keep the weight off.

- For Irate4x4 Red Skull members only I'll toss in the install kit for free if you supply the 3/8" socket driver that you should already have in your tool box. :smokin::smokin:
 

Dookey

WINNAR
Joined
May 11, 2020
Member Number
17
Messages
229
Loc
Thornton, CO
ah, i read 1/2" socket cap and for some reason thought of 1/2" drive :homer:

imma-idiot.

Thanks for the feedback! :beer: :beer:

The hardware is 1/2x20 with the matching flange nuts. The socket driver is 3/8 drive and 3/8 allen.

The 1/2" hardware is easy to source anywhere in the world. No proprietary lug studs or BS. Just simple.

I'm including the socket cap screws because it keeps the tools off the wheel during install. Hex cap bolts let the socket hit the face of the wheel. So I feel like this is a better solution.

Your question put it in my mind to include the install kit. So everyone should call it the Provience private parts special. :laughing::laughing:
 

Weasel

Red Skull Member
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
712
Messages
1,686
Loc
Black Hills, SoDak
I like them as well!

The only thing I have come to like on mine and not sure how you'd do it on your is the thick beadlock rings keep rocks out of the inner face of the wheels and valve stems.

On the hardware side, the flange nuts seem to be working? Mine never stay tight on my beadlock rings and I switched to top locks.
 

YotaAtieToo

Thick skull
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
142
Messages
4,662
Loc
Bonners Ferry, ID
I was always told to put your wrench on serrated flange nuts and not to spin them. Was this wrong?

Love the wheels, just out of curiosity, what would the odds of getting the outer lip done in steel for retard drive by brail types?
 

Dookey

WINNAR
Joined
May 11, 2020
Member Number
17
Messages
229
Loc
Thornton, CO
I like them as well!

The only thing I have come to like on mine and not sure how you'd do it on your is the thick beadlock rings keep rocks out of the inner face of the wheels and valve stems.

On the hardware side, the flange nuts seem to be working? Mine never stay tight on my beadlock rings and I switched to top locks.

The valve stem is up in there at the flange as far as it can go. And it is small. Worst case is you break it off and just EZ out the thing and replace it. It screws in from the outside so you don't have to tear the wheel down to replace it. And I used a smaller 1/8" NPT fitting in case you had to hog the hole out larger.

I've checked torque on the flange nuts and bolts often over my R&D time and they haven't backed off yet. Since the outer ring is keyed to the back half of the wheel you remove quite a bit of work from the nuts and bolts. Plus, the flange is smushed together 100%. So once the two halves are together the torque should hold. There's zero give between the halves once they are installed leading to a much easier maintenance schedule.

The flange nuts are serrated and have a 130% removal value over install. The flange nut will chew into the face of the wheel. I suggest 115-120lb/ft to install so they are over 150 to remove. However, should you be interested, I'd happily swap the serrated flange nuts for lock nuts. You'll just have to replace hardware more often should you tear up your tires. I think the top lock nuts are great. But so far I haven't seen any need to use them. However, I never ask people to go against their gut instinct. So I'm open to doing things differently should that make you happy.
:beer:
 

Dookey

WINNAR
Joined
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Member Number
17
Messages
229
Loc
Thornton, CO
I was always told to put your wrench on serrated flange nuts and not to spin them. Was this wrong?

Love the wheels, just out of curiosity, what would the odds of getting the outer lip done in steel for retard drive by brail types?

I believe the serrations should "machine" the face flat a bit. Especially if you have a painted wheel surface. You can torque the socket cap screws down after the serration does its job on install. That's how I constantly check torque without removing a wheel from the wheel hub to do so. Which would get around the hammer dog impact setup I was referring to earlier. You can impact the screws all you want. But the coating comes off. Nothing a sharpie won't fix. :laughing:

As far as the steel outer ring... I don't think I'll get there. I do plan to offer replacement outer rings should you find their limits. :smokin:
 

YotaAtieToo

Thick skull
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
142
Messages
4,662
Loc
Bonners Ferry, ID
Makes sense.

I guess the steel ring would probably be a little dumb. Just adding material to the aluminum outer would be a better option, but probably not necessary for almost anyone.

I was asking because I know someone whore broke an out ring on the other brands aluminum double bead lock. Even being a dealer for them, they told him he had to buy a whole wheel :homer: so good on you for offering rings alone.
 

Dookey

WINNAR
Joined
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Member Number
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Messages
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Loc
Thornton, CO
Makes sense.

I guess the steel ring would probably be a little dumb. Just adding material to the aluminum outer would be a better option, but probably not necessary for almost anyone.

I was asking because I know someone whore broke an out ring on the other brands aluminum double bead lock. Even being a dealer for them, they told him he had to buy a whole wheel :homer: so good on you for offering rings alone.


I quit thinking stuff won't break. Stuff breaks. We're hard on parts and for the most part it is fun to watch others do it. :laughing:

I feel like it is better to just account for it. I can have an outer ring swapped out in under 10 minutes. It's pretty easy with a short 2x4 and a rubber mallet. I've taken a few of my wheels apart multiple times just to test what's going on. It works really well.
 

Dookey

WINNAR
Joined
May 11, 2020
Member Number
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Messages
229
Loc
Thornton, CO
Agree

Are these like most other double beadlocks where the insert needs to be matched to the sidewall thickness?

Correct. Have to match up the insert width to the tire you're running. There is a wide range of bead thicknesses from 5/8" up to an inch. So the insert should account for it. Most of the time guys go up in tire size so the insert width needs to come down. Should someone be handy with a table saw or a jig saw it is simple to trim the inserts to width. Which I'm willing to help people understand how to make it happen.

If it is a situation where the old insert won't work with the new tire I'm happy to swap them out if you pay the freight both ways. The pipe will work forever. I would never sell a used insert with a new wheel but an exchange program will get people around the issue.
 

Dookey

WINNAR
Joined
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Member Number
17
Messages
229
Loc
Thornton, CO
Paint match in process today on some outer rings. The owner requested no pics so I took the color out. :laughing:

PaintMatchBooth.jpg
 

Dookey

WINNAR
Joined
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Member Number
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Messages
229
Loc
Thornton, CO
And the master install kit. I stole that from the Dana60 Bible I think. :lmao:

You don't have to use this to install if you already have some longer bolts. The bearings really help make it super simple. If you have a red skull I'll toss these in for free. :smokin:

FRIMIK.jpg
 

YotaAtieToo

Thick skull
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
142
Messages
4,662
Loc
Bonners Ferry, ID
If it is a situation where the old insert won't work with the new tire I'm happy to swap them out if you pay the freight both ways. The pipe will work forever. I would never sell a used insert with a new wheel but an exchange program will get people around the issue.

:smokin: that's awesome.
 

Weasel

Red Skull Member
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
712
Messages
1,686
Loc
Black Hills, SoDak
The valve stem is up in there at the flange as far as it can go. And it is small. Worst case is you break it off and just EZ out the thing and replace it. It screws in from the outside so you don't have to tear the wheel down to replace it. And I used a smaller 1/8" NPT fitting in case you had to hog the hole out larger.

I've checked torque on the flange nuts and bolts often over my R&D time and they haven't backed off yet. Since the outer ring is keyed to the back half of the wheel you remove quite a bit of work from the nuts and bolts. Plus, the flange is smushed together 100%. So once the two halves are together the torque should hold. There's zero give between the halves once they are installed leading to a much easier maintenance schedule.

The flange nuts are serrated and have a 130% removal value over install. The flange nut will chew into the face of the wheel. I suggest 115-120lb/ft to install so they are over 150 to remove. However, should you be interested, I'd happily swap the serrated flange nuts for lock nuts. You'll just have to replace hardware more often should you tear up your tires. I think the top lock nuts are great. But so far I haven't seen any need to use them. However, I never ask people to go against their gut instinct. So I'm open to doing things differently should that make you happy.
:beer:
Nice idea on the valve stem. I am one of those retards that ends ups with rocks and sticks in places they should be. No sweat on the flange nuts. I usually swap out hardware for CAT bolts.
 
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