The TRACTOR thread

arse_sidewards said:
Regardless of the fact that he screwed up the number the change in leverage between tire and 3pt hitch is huge.
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My 3 points aren’t empty doing nothing. I’ve got the 3 points occupied. A weight box back there would have to go on and off on and off. The extra thousand pounds in each tire never needs to get out of the way
 
Great ideas and conversation about the tire bias!

Sounds like I should consider wiper fluid or used antifreeze. I will probably be running tubes, so to figure out a decent way to put the fluid in. Maybe a tank that I can fill then push the fluid through with compressed air?
 
[486] said:
how bout filling the wheel centers with concrete and whatever small steel you've got (buckets of ****ty bolts make excellent heavy aggregate, nuts somewhat less so)
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Actually not a bad idea. Weld some pipe in to access the lug nuts and tie in some rebar or pipe or whatever to those.
 
2big bronco said:
Actually not a bad idea. Weld some pipe in to access the lug nuts and tie in some rebar or pipe or whatever to those.
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five gallon bucket deck screwed to the hub flange makes a void form which is tapered for removal
the valve stem hole would prolly need somehing like a two liter bottle

tarp the wheel with a couple three layers so the whole **** is removable instead of being stuck in there
few bent pieces of allthread stuck through the tarp and the wheel center's available holes for retention
 
[486] said:
five gallon bucket deck screwed to the hub flange makes a void form which is tapered for removal
the valve stem hole would prolly need somehing like a two liter bottle

tarp the wheel with a couple three layers so the whole **** is removable instead of being stuck in there
few bent pieces of allthread stuck through the tarp and the wheel center's available holes for retention
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I’ll stick with Beet juice. :laughing:
 
Rimguard (beet juice) for me.

On a side note while pushing some **** out the way the other night I took a decent sized stick up under the pedal assembly and think it stretched my return spring. My HST pedals now wont return to neutral unless the opposite pedal is pushed. Time to dig in and lube some linkage up and start ruling things out. Luckily it looks like that spring is only $5.
 
Alpine4x4 said:
Rimguard (beet juice) for me.

On a side note while pushing some **** out the way the other night I took a decent sized stick up under the pedal assembly and think it stretched my return spring. My HST pedals now wont return to neutral unless the opposite pedal is pushed. Time to dig in and lube some linkage up and start ruling things out. Luckily it looks like that spring is only $5.
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There is also a return to center adjustment.
 
Cheapest R1 on the market, 11.2-24 $270.

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Getting my grapple on. Been wanting one, need a third function but no dedicated kits for the Kubota L45. On the phone with Summit in AZ and we think we can make a kit they have for other Kubotas work. I just need to find my PB, power beyond, port.
Found it, 12 O clock 90 degree line going to the right. That line goes to the 3rd function. Return is the brass fitting behind it
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Have to find a spot to mount third function valve. Hoses coming up are from/to PB. I'll just weld the bracket on.
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Wiring. Got to replace the stock handle with the Summit and find 12 volts
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Mocked up the hoses for test
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It worked!
 
back woods said:
Grapple is a life changer.
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Agree.

This was my morning activity. Two trips with the tele-grapple and I was done. Would've taken me 10 trips the "old" way with my little tractor, forks and a couple straps.

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I'd still like to put a light duty grapple on my little 790, but the power beyond kit is long unavailable for it and I haven't seen many other options. I think my loader connections also complicate things.
 
bgaidan said:
Agree.

This was my morning activity. Two trips with the tele-grapple and I was done. Would've taken me 10 trips the "old" way with my little tractor, forks and a couple straps.

1777729637230.png



I'd still like to put a light duty grapple on my little 790, but the power beyond kit is long unavailable for it and I haven't seen many other options. I think my loader connections also complicate things.
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Have you talked to Summit? The guy in AZ I talked to was pretty sharp. Or is your PB port not accessible?
 
ANGELO said:
my fords got the 3.1L 3-cyl diesel. Does anyone know what the injection timing should be? Ive got a pulse adapter. We are about to adjust the valves. I want to check the timing and see if its off to try and stop it from smoking at idle.
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Levigarrett76 said:
Would like to hear this also, have always just lined up the line on the pump to the "0" on the timing cover.
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There is no dynamic timing spec for these engines. The only actual timing spec in the book a complex process to set pump internal timing with a special jig. Just line the line on the pump up to zero or put it back where it was originally. Should run decently, and can try adjusting from there is needed. End of the day, these engines are relatively insensitive to timing.

Pretty much zero chance timing is causing smoke at idle. More likely worn injectors or wear elsewhere. Some amount of idle smoke is also fairly normal even with a new engine.
 
back woods said:
My little stump tractor build got some paint. It is now 99% complete, just needs a little more paint and a belt guard installed. Took a little over 1.5yr from start to finish, worked on it mostly in the winter.
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Friggin awesome 🍻
 
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