The TRACTOR thread

87manche said:
that may have been me and the mother in laws little 1220.
damned thing's practically never seen rain.
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I've got one of those too!

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I have to say my 1220 has been a great tractor - though the old man who owned it before me definitely beat on it so I've had to fix some stuff here and there. Hydrostatic is awesome. As is the backhoe. Digging in northern NV is next to impossible without one.
 
i'm jelly of your FEL.

I've been looking for one, but they're damned pricey and never near me.
FordFascist said:
I've got one of those too!

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I have to say my 1220 has been a great tractor - though the old man who owned it before me definitely beat on it so I've had to fix some stuff here and there. Hydrostatic is awesome. As is the backhoe. Digging in northern NV is next to impossible without one.
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I've got a old Ford/new Holland with 600 hours I got for like 3k I use all the time. I don't think I could have cleaned up this property without the loader.
Ssqa is definitely a must.
I've been thinking about a grapple bucket after seeing how quickly the tree guys cleaned my front yard with theirs. Can I just plumb it into the rear hydraulics and run hoses up front?
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I have a Deere 5400 2wd with FEL here

I have a 60" grapple, pallet forks, 7' brush hog, 7' box blade, 9' swivel blade, 6' tiller, 2 bottom plow, 8' 3 point disc and a post auger.

I use the grapple more than anything. with the box blade and swivel blade being a close second. The tiller gets a lot of use in the spring when i am doing gardens for my side hustle.

100% put beet juice in the rear tires. Completely changes the tractor when you are putting all the power to the ground. Even with juice in the tires I will put the box blade or tiller on the 3point to give even more traction. Like was said before it's not a skid steer and isn't meant to dig. It works great for scooping up loose dirt or gravel though. The grapple is the cat's meow for cleaning up junk, brush, or rocks. **** breaking my back picking **** up. :laughing:


Edit to add: I added the 3rd function to my tractor for the grapple. I got one of the last NOS kits for adding the 3rd SCV to my tractor according to the dealer. It was almost $900 but it works pretty good and my FEL runs off the first two SCV set up that way OEM. Having the grapple function as a button on the loader controls would be nice but mine works for as much as I use it. (non commercial)
 
BUCKLAND said:
Our snowmobile clan has 2 of these, haven’t tried one on my tractor yet. They seem good, but not like a mulching head on a mini good.

lanesharkusa.com

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They make badass 3pt/pto forrestry mulchers for small tractors
 
ANGELO said:
I've got a old Ford/new Holland with 600 hours I got for like 3k I use all the time. I don't think I could have cleaned up this property without the loader.
Ssqa is definitely a must.
I've been thinking about a grapple bucket after seeing how quickly the tree guys cleaned my front yard with theirs. Can I just plumb it into the rear hydraulics and run hoses up front?
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you can but depending on where the lever is you may hate it. It's awfully nice to be able to grab, curl and lift all at once with one hand.
 
JeffsJeep04 said:
It’s crazy how cheap used big tractors are
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Hell I was hoping it would go way cheaper than it did! At least it looks pretty solid other than needing a cab kit and seat. Tires are like brand new though so that's close to 8-10 grand worth of rubber. My 8630 (with 50 series engine) needs an engine rebuild it's using more oil than it should and has quite a bit of blowby, so I figured I could get this 8650 and then have more time to rebuild the engine in the 8630. I also recently purchased a 4366 international from a neighbor for $3000. It's only a 225hp tractor though so it probably wouldn't be happy pulling my disc ripper and needs tires. Too cheap for me to pass it up though.

I definitely have too many tractors for the amount of acres I farm, but the old "2 is one, one is none" saying rings true... I'd rather have extra tractors I can hook up to if **** goes south.

MuntCuffin said:
Very limited market, all new farming **** has to be retrofitted (autosteer, gps, etc), doesn't have the hydros to run modern big planters, and the typical kids that work on farms don't wanna sit in a tractor like that.
Its a blessing/shame depending how you look at it. Those tractors are rock solid for discing/grain carting. No electronics for deere to come out and "diagnose". Parts are getting scarce, though.

The top transmission cover on that thing, which has an integrated hydraulic fitting on it, is unobtainium, gotta go to a tractor salvage yard to get it.


The ass pad cushion for that seat is about $140 and a couple hours labor to rip the seat outta the cab and brake it down on a bench. Dealers can usually get the ass pad next day.
2spd clutches are starting to become available again.
Just too big for home gamers, and too old for a lotta farms. We'd run it, but we already have 5 86 series Deere machines. If you aren't accustomed to the old mechanical stuff, it feels like a step back.
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Hell the 8650 is one of the top 3 newest tractors I own now. Have a Case 2294 that is probably one of the earlier ones so 84-85ish and a Versatile 296 that is probably an 85-86 Everything else is older. I run a lot of 86 series internationals and 66 series internationals.
 
So I have a Yanmar 3T80 in my 1987 JD750. Probably haven’t changed the antifreeze in 2+ decades. The owners manual calls for cool guard 2. Is there something I can use from tractor supply. Also while we’re on the subject, does anyone know hydraulic oil too?
 
WoodburyZuk said:
So I have a Yanmar 3T80 in my 1987 JD750. Probably haven’t changed the antifreeze in 2+ decades. The owners manual calls for cool guard 2. Is there something I can use from tractor supply. Also while we’re on the subject, does anyone know hydraulic oil too?
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Just flush the system and use whatever green concentrate is on sale and mix 60/40 with water to get the same as the jd stuff. As far as hydraulic oil you will be fine with whatever "universal" stuff is on sale at tractor supply, however Walmart is usually cheaper.
 
I have never had good luck running anything but JD hydraulic fluid in JD tractors. I had a 2020 Deere that Grandpa used Champion fluid in it and the wet brakes came apart and clogged the filter, twice.. Hydragard isn't that expensive so I run green fluid in green tractors.
 
87manche said:

they mention preventing cavitation of the liners, so I'd use anything that would work in a ford IDI from the parts store. They all have the anti cavitation **** in them.
probably whatever fleetgaurd says to use in a ford.
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This.

I'm not sure on the Yanmar engines, but JD diesels have a long history of cavitation tearing up liners when cheap coolant is used. I use the JD coolant, but I think Manche is right that anything with the anti-cal additives will be fine.
 
billybob_81067 said:
Hell the 8650 is one of the top 3 newest tractors I own now. Have a Case 2294 that is probably one of the earlier ones so 84-85ish and a Versatile 296 that is probably an 85-86 Everything else is older. I run a lot of 86 series internationals and 66 series internationals.
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4 8630's and 1 8640 here, all with the 50 series engine swap. Getting long in the tooth, though. We are thinking the 40 popped a head gasket this spring discing in some sand, and a 30 popped a head gasket pulling an air seeder around.


Also got 3 9410's and a 9220 for yanking around planters and anhydrous applicators. I strongly dislike how plastic the new tractors are.
 
Any of you tractor owners spend the money on a hydraulic top link or side link? Was it worth the investment?
I'm really considering a top link right now, and doing a multiplier diverter solenoid so I only use one set of remotes for top and side link.
 
Wheelin66bronco said:
Any of you tractor owners spend the money on a hydraulic top link or side link? Was it worth the investment?
I'm really considering a top link right now, and doing a multiplier diverter solenoid so I only use one set of remotes for top and side link.
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I don’t get how they sell tractors without them, I would say worth it.

Unless you work on a completely flat surface.
 
Wheelin66bronco said:
Any of you tractor owners spend the money on a hydraulic top link or side link? Was it worth the investment?
I'm really considering a top link right now, and doing a multiplier diverter solenoid so I only use one set of remotes for top and side link.
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I didn't when I bought the tractor, but bought this guys kit for my tractor a few months back. Remote Hydraulic & Hitch Kits | Tractor Innovations


Well worth it, makes everything work better. cutting in a small ditch with the box blade, or using the brush cutter makes it much easier and quicker to get things set the way you want them. Hand cranking the links sucks and takes forever.
 
Wheelin66bronco said:
Any of you tractor owners spend the money on a hydraulic top link or side link? Was it worth the investment?
I'm really considering a top link right now, and doing a multiplier diverter solenoid so I only use one set of remotes for top and side link.
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Top link, yes.
Side link, I don't do enough 3 point dirt work to use it.

Aaron Z
 
Anyone have experience with a FEL quick attach rock bucket? Teeth, no teeth, several different styles?
I'm getting a lot of rototilling work, but rocks play hell on the tiller and I've sheared enough tine bolts on one job to not make it worth it unless I can remove rocks prior.
I'm getting mostly virgin ground, so I'm thinking even a disk or tine style ground breakup first, then rock bucket, then till?
 
Wheelin66bronco said:
Anyone have experience with a FEL quick attach rock bucket? Teeth, no teeth, several different styles?
I'm getting a lot of rototilling work, but rocks play hell on the tiller and I've sheared enough tine bolts on one job to not make it worth it unless I can remove rocks prior.
I'm getting mostly virgin ground, so I'm thinking even a disk or tine style ground breakup first, then rock bucket, then till?
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Seen them used on a skid steer, they work well for larger (bread loaf and larger) rocks.
On beaking tine bolts, if you are breaking tine bolts on a 3 point tiller before breaking a shear pin or slipping a slip clutch you need to use a weaker shear pin, or adjust your slip clutch before you shred your gearbox.

Aaron Z
 
Wheelin66bronco said:
Any of you tractor owners spend the money on a hydraulic top link or side link? Was it worth the investment?
I'm really considering a top link right now, and doing a multiplier diverter solenoid so I only use one set of remotes for top and side link.
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Bought the top and tilt kit with the tractor and all of the extra hydraulics available. At the time after market kits were not as available as they are now, and I didn’t have time to tear a brand new tractor apart.
 
Wheelin66bronco said:
Anyone have experience with a FEL quick attach rock bucket? Teeth, no teeth, several different styles?
I'm getting a lot of rototilling work, but rocks play hell on the tiller and I've sheared enough tine bolts on one job to not make it worth it unless I can remove rocks prior.
I'm getting mostly virgin ground, so I'm thinking even a disk or tine style ground breakup first, then rock bucket, then till?
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DO you have a slipper clutch?
 
Wheelin66bronco said:
I am not familiar with that term/part, part of the tiller? Just looked the manual over, no mention of slipper clutch.
The bolts are soft on the tines, so I assumed they were the shear pins.
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It bolts/mounts between the pto output on the tractor and the pto shaft. If you dont have one and are rototilling rocks you will break the transmission in your tractor. It allows the pto shaft to "slip" instaead of breaking tines/bolts/ transmisions/ect.
 
2big bronco said:
It bolts/mounts between the pto output on the tractor and the pto shaft. If you dont have one and are rototilling rocks you will break the transmission in your tractor. It allows the pto shaft to "slip" instaead of breaking tines/bolts/ transmisions/ect.
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If you're using shear pins and not bolts in your pto you shouldn't break transmissions.
 
Well I picked up the buzz saw. Not sure it was really worth the 5 that I paid for it. But after talking to the guy, he got it from my uncle that passed away recently. My uncle was telling me that he built one out of angle iron some 30 years ago. Looking at the construction of this one I'm pretty sure it's the same saw. So there is some sentimental value to it. I'll probably build a feed system for it out of more angle iron and well pipe for rollers then park the splitter next to it for a proper whitetrash wood processor.
 

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WhiteTrash303 said:
Well I picked up the buzz saw. Not sure it was really worth the 5 that I paid for it. But after talking to the guy, he got it from my uncle that passed away recently. My uncle was telling me that he built one out of angle iron some 30 years ago. Looking at the construction of this one I'm pretty sure it's the same saw. So there is some sentimental value to it. I'll probably build a feed system for it out of more angle iron and well pipe for rollers then park the splitter next to it for a proper whitetrash wood processor.
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Handy as a pocket pussy on a deployment for cutting slabs into firewood.
 
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