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The Scoob

KungFooMASTA said:
Wow, I never even knew people did this stuff with Subarus.
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Most don't, but I knew of a guy in CO that built one on 33" Boggers. Aussies probably go harder.
posford said:
They don't, and thats the point :flipoff2:
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Yup. Building for actual trails. Not just gravel roads.
TrikeKid said:
I haven't been keeping up with this but holy cow man, this thing is fucking cool!
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Appreciate that. Kinda fucked some stuff up in the last week with some things that are going on. Moving forward as I can.
 
Picked up some more exhaust hardware and got the ibooster mini res installed. Exhaust donut is mostly correct. I'll have to shave it down a bit to work. Thought about making my own exhaust a while back and lost interest. Same with a battery box for the Antigravity battery. I have one on the way from Billet Proof.
 
Ordered the Swiss, but whatever. Maybe I can weld this up tomorrow.

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Got a the exhaust mounted. The crossmember I made is pushing the pipe up enough for the driveshaft to rub on a cat. Sure wish I still had an oxy torch.
 
Turns out that a street bike rear brake res was just what I needed. Hacked the res bracket off my GSX750 pile and welded that on.

Brakes are bled. All that is left is to hook up to a 40-amp circuit to have power brakes.

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A picture doesn't do anything for this, but I just charged up the Antigravity battery and started the car. Holy fucking shit does that little block of lithium crank the engine over in less than a second!
 
I also need to add that Arse was correct. I didn't warp the rear diff. The pinion slack got taken back up once I unbolted the pinion guard. Man, was my mind off its rocker that day.
 
Dropped another 21.4 lbs. Legacy manual seat swap. Pay no mind to the mismatch. I'll reupholster them later.

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I need to get new ball joints. The units I have it now are just cheapo's off Rock Auto that I used for setup.

Don't have any strength comparison between OE and Whiteline. No need to raise my roll center even more with the Whiteline joints, but it may be nice. I'll check on OE pricing soon.

Looking for material strength as Subaru ball joints are freakin' tiny. I've seen several aftermarket sxs ball joints that appear to be made from 300M and have the same shape as Subaru joints, though have no idea if they're dimensionally similar without ordering various joints and measuring them.
 
Ball joint is not a weak link. You will pretzel control arms first.

The white wagon has one of those no name $50 front end wear part kits in it. It's on it's third pass control arm.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Ball joint is not a weak link. You will pretzel control arms first.

The white wagon has one of those no name $50 front end wear part kits in it. It's on it's third pass control arm.
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Dude. Have you seen my control arms? :flipoff2:

The ball joints are now the weakest link that I can think of. I'm gonna look up OE prices tonight. I've had trouble on and off with Moog on the last four vehicles.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Did you plate them? I wasn't paying attention.
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One-off arms I made with DOM and Rock Krawler joints. Only OE section left on them is the ball joint sleeves that I built up with mig weld about twice their original girth. There's plenty of pics in here somewhere.
 
posford said:
:shaking: Why the fuck you here? Dudes slinging absurdly good tech, for a lesbaru, and you're post skimming?

This things rowdy as fuck I love it
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Sometimes I can't even remember what I did :lmao:

Kinda like how I was looking at putting third gen front knuckles on this a few years ago and didn't remember it until last night. Got a pair on the way. Getting rid of the press-in bearings so that trail fixes are a little quicker.
 
JNHEscher said:
Sometimes I can't even remember what I did :lmao:

Kinda like how I was looking at putting third gen front knuckles on this a few years ago and didn't remember it until last night. Got a pair on the way. Getting rid of the press-in bearings so that trail fixes are a little quicker.
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Do you need new calipers for the 3rd gen?

Also, FYI there's some point at which they went to 5x4.5 because the 1980s midsize car architecture was starting to show its age. The 5x4.5 bearings are more beef but you need to swap CVs around to make it happen IIRC.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Do you need new calipers for the 3rd gen?

Also, FYI there's some point at which they went to 5x4.5 because the 1980s midsize car architecture was starting to show its age. The 5x4.5 bearings are more beef but you need to swap CVs around to make it happen IIRC.
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To be determined. I do a lot of crossover checks through Rock Auto. The calipers are iffy at the moment. No biggie.

Axle splines are the same, but overall, the third gen bars are around 100mm longer. Outboard joints have different profiles, too. I'm planning to mess around with this using the extended-length axles.

Ball joints match.

I think struts bolt up. If not, I've got drill bits that say they do. :laughing:
 
JNHEscher said:
I think struts bolt up. If not, I've got drill bits that say they do. :laughing:
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Struts should bolt up. Might have to swap your upper spring plate to the new strut since there's a fair amount of variation there.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Struts should bolt up. Might have to swap your upper spring plate to the new strut since there's a fair amount of variation there.
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Easy enough. I'm still looking to get this on air anyway, so I'll probably be playing around with strut mounting a lot.
 
Knuckle swap is a go. Everything is fitting up. I gotta order some OE ball joints, bearing bolts, and maybe bearing seals.

Only thing I really need to play with is the axles. 2nd gens will work, I believe.

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Easiest route for making the 2nd gen axles work is to machine a spacer to go between the outer CV bell and bearing. Currently, the outer bell splines stop against the hub too early and don't allow retention on the bearing. Boy, do I wish Trakmotive axles were serviceable.

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Whipped up spacers and seal adapters tonight. 0.250" spacer thickness. Think I'll grab some 3rd gen wheel speed sensors from the junkyard to make some dummy plugs for the ports.

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