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The Scoob

'Tis all.

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2mm is a tight fit on the gear selector retainer pin hole. Measured a 0.140" gap between the rod end ball and drill bit.

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Salvage yard parts run tomorrow. Hopefully there's still parts left that I'm in need of. Should ordering the cables shortly as well.
 
Had 30 minutes left in my day. Ducked under to start dropping the diff. Got all the mount nuts off and and felt the backlash. Holy hell, the pinion flange turns about 20 degrees between sides. The 4.44 LSD I bought feels right as spec, lucklily.

And then I started draining the oil. That was cleanest damn oil I've ever dropped out of any used driveline part. Like I was pouring straight from a fresh bottle. In the used oil pan it went :homer:

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'02 Legacy Outback with a 4EAT uses the correct stubs. Also found an open diff that I may snag for a Torq Locker.

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More score. The open diff I got is already 4.44's. Time to order up a 5-bolt Torq Locker, I guess. I have the 4.44 LSD as well, so if I don't like the locker, it's a quick swap back to OE stuff.

Breather hole measures 0.470" ID. Think I'll tap it for a fitting and run a line up higher somewhere.

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Grabbed a 12mm rod end today. Slipped over the longer barrel bolt, it leaves 15.5mm of thread engagement on the cable ends. This will work.

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This may be a photo dump more than anything. I found all my pics from when I started this. I'll try to explain it all the best I can.

Rock Krawler joints and air shock fitment.

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Energy Suspension 9.9106 bushing for the rear lower laterals.

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Turned down some DOM for the poly bushings.

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Turned down the bodies of the Rusty's 2.5 builder joints so that they would press into the trailing arm eye.

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Think I filed a flat for drilling.

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Drilled and tapped for a grease zerk.

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Lined up the zerk holes.

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Pressed 'em in.

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Inner view.

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Mounted - and a direct fit.

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Mocking up more Rock Krawler joints for the upper laterals. There's a third one somewhere, but as said before, it was really short and not needed.


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All welded.

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And test fitting.

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Had to come up with stuff to take up the space on the uppers.

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Lower lateral with a bracket from Barnes 4WD. I'll have to look for it on their website to see what it was designed for. It fit the Energy Suspension bushing just right.

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This setup allows me to flip the lower laterals either way. I flipped the for more ground clearance.

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Modified a couple parts on the lathe today.

Drilled and tapped a 12-1.75 bolt to take the 8-1.25 cable end threads. Cut down the OE 8mm sleeve to .300" long to take up up space in the ID of the 12mm rod end.

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Sort of assembled pic. Button head screw in place of where the cable will thread in.

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Walked next door today to grab a brass barb adapter. 1/4" NPT has the right amount of meat on it to turn the threads off to a press-fit OD into the read diff cover. Smallest barb they had with 1/4" NPT was a 1/4" barb. I'd like to go 1/8", but my usual go-to for extended a breather is a 1/4" barb>1/4" fuel hose>1/4" small engine fuel filter. I'll poke around, though I don't think I can find any kind of filter in the 1/8" flavor.

Don't think it's worth tapping the diff cover breather hole when I can just turn a fitting to press in


Edit: There's this - McMaster-Carr
 
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One naked 6MT output shaft awaiting fresh bearings. Think I'll order all that stuff tonight.

Probably going to open up the transfer gear bearing plate to see what's in there. That one has some slop as well.

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Not terrible, but probably worth replacing while I'm in it. The dimensions were easy to find online.

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Quick look on the parts site - it's a lot cheaper than I thought it would be. I'll look to see if there's a standard ball bearing that would fit, though replacing this with such may not work out. The transfer gear rides against a thrust washer that is on the back of the center diff, so I guess it's not like the transfer gear bearing really has to be bolted to the output housing.

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4.11 diff is out. Me thinks that pinion shield is supposed to be on the underside.

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I have Energy Suspension bushings on the way for all four diff mounts. At the salvage, the car I was pulling the 4.44 open diff from had the full T bar diff mount that extends just ahead of the fuel tank. I'm deciding if I want to go back and grab that as it adds rigidity to the driveline and a bunch of shielding.
 
And there is still this. Speedo sensor that broke off the 5MT. There is no sensor on the Crosstrek 6MT. I'm not really interested in GPS speedometers, but I guess that may be the route I go.

I don't currently know what the sensor output signal would be. I'd like to work out a tone ring and such to use the OE circuit, but that may be more work than it's worth.

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Poly bushings came in. Dunno if I'll get any installed tomorrow. There's and inch or so of rain dumping on us tonight.

Rear diff, steering rack, and shifter bushings. I swear Subaru uses some of the lowest durometer rubber in their cars just to make for an enjoyable ride in a soda can on wheels. Most of mine are kinda ragged out.

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Progress. Might toy with the shifter next. I have the cables ordered from Midwest Control, but no word on shipping yet.

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Those are done. Just need the damn cables so I can figure out how and where to mount everything else.

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Didn't think about this until a bit ago. I think I can fudge the mounting on the tail housing. Using the 5MT housing on the 6MT trans would be easy, though I would have to cover up the shift rail.

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And there's that. Oh Really's had it next day. I avoided shipping lol.

Looks a little silly. As long as it works, though. Certainly takes up far less space than the OE intake.

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Edit: Wondered what room it had under the hood. Fits great. I can pass my hand between the filter and hood.
 

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Thinking I'm going to make an adapter plate to fit the 5MT shifter to the 6MT.

Poked around and the old battery tray off my dump truck is a suitable thickness to make something from.

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