Had 30 minutes left in my day. Ducked under to start dropping the diff. Got all the mount nuts off and and felt the backlash. Holy hell, the pinion flange turns about 20 degrees between sides. The 4.44 LSD I bought feels right as spec, lucklily.
And then I started draining the oil. That was cleanest damn oil I've ever dropped out of any used driveline part. Like I was pouring straight from a fresh bottle. In the used oil pan it went
More score. The open diff I got is already 4.44's. Time to order up a 5-bolt Torq Locker, I guess. I have the 4.44 LSD as well, so if I don't like the locker, it's a quick swap back to OE stuff.
Breather hole measures 0.470" ID. Think I'll tap it for a fitting and run a line up higher somewhere.
Mocking up more Rock Krawler joints for the upper laterals. There's a third one somewhere, but as said before, it was really short and not needed.
All welded.
And test fitting.
Had to come up with stuff to take up the space on the uppers.
Lower lateral with a bracket from Barnes 4WD. I'll have to look for it on their website to see what it was designed for. It fit the Energy Suspension bushing just right.
This setup allows me to flip the lower laterals either way. I flipped the for more ground clearance.
Drilled and tapped a 12-1.75 bolt to take the 8-1.25 cable end threads. Cut down the OE 8mm sleeve to .300" long to take up up space in the ID of the 12mm rod end.
Sort of assembled pic. Button head screw in place of where the cable will thread in.
Walked next door today to grab a brass barb adapter. 1/4" NPT has the right amount of meat on it to turn the threads off to a press-fit OD into the read diff cover. Smallest barb they had with 1/4" NPT was a 1/4" barb. I'd like to go 1/8", but my usual go-to for extended a breather is a 1/4" barb>1/4" fuel hose>1/4" small engine fuel filter. I'll poke around, though I don't think I can find any kind of filter in the 1/8" flavor.
Don't think it's worth tapping the diff cover breather hole when I can just turn a fitting to press in
Not terrible, but probably worth replacing while I'm in it. The dimensions were easy to find online.
Quick look on the parts site - it's a lot cheaper than I thought it would be. I'll look to see if there's a standard ball bearing that would fit, though replacing this with such may not work out. The transfer gear rides against a thrust washer that is on the back of the center diff, so I guess it's not like the transfer gear bearing really has to be bolted to the output housing.
4.11 diff is out. Me thinks that pinion shield is supposed to be on the underside.
I have Energy Suspension bushings on the way for all four diff mounts. At the salvage, the car I was pulling the 4.44 open diff from had the full T bar diff mount that extends just ahead of the fuel tank. I'm deciding if I want to go back and grab that as it adds rigidity to the driveline and a bunch of shielding.
And there is still this. Speedo sensor that broke off the 5MT. There is no sensor on the Crosstrek 6MT. I'm not really interested in GPS speedometers, but I guess that may be the route I go.
I don't currently know what the sensor output signal would be. I'd like to work out a tone ring and such to use the OE circuit, but that may be more work than it's worth.
Poly bushings came in. Dunno if I'll get any installed tomorrow. There's and inch or so of rain dumping on us tonight.
Rear diff, steering rack, and shifter bushings. I swear Subaru uses some of the lowest durometer rubber in their cars just to make for an enjoyable ride in a soda can on wheels. Most of mine are kinda ragged out.
Didn't think about this until a bit ago. I think I can fudge the mounting on the tail housing. Using the 5MT housing on the 6MT trans would be easy, though I would have to cover up the shift rail.