JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
And I must not be anywhere near my picture limit. Just realized yesterday morning that my red skull had expired. I'll keep it comin' for now. My money has to keep going to towards parts for the Scoob.
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The Scoob
- Thread starter JNHEscher
- Start date
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Fuckers put red loctite on the throwout sleeve.
And there it is. Now to spend the next half an hour searching for snap ring pliers.
And there it is. Now to spend the next half an hour searching for snap ring pliers.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
5MT front axle stubs fit the 6MT diff just fine. Sigh of relief.
I have a '18/'19 Crosstrek front axle on the way. Curious to see if the snap ring off it will fit on the stub. I won't be tearing down the 6MT just to put some friggin' stubs in.
I have a '18/'19 Crosstrek front axle on the way. Curious to see if the snap ring off it will fit on the stub. I won't be tearing down the 6MT just to put some friggin' stubs in.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
And for some shifting shenanigans - I'm undecided on maintaining OE cable control, picking out small pneumatic/hydraulic cylinders to air or hydro shift, or something else. Pretty much wide open on this part.
Measured all but the stroke of the rail selector arm.
Gear selector arm. OD of the pin - 0.313"
Bracket for gear selector arm cable. ID - 0.960"
Rail selector arm. P/pivot ball OD - 0.392", S/shaft OD - 0.315", B/base OD - 0.392"
Gear selector arm stroke
Measured all but the stroke of the rail selector arm.
Gear selector arm. OD of the pin - 0.313"
Bracket for gear selector arm cable. ID - 0.960"
Rail selector arm. P/pivot ball OD - 0.392", S/shaft OD - 0.315", B/base OD - 0.392"
Gear selector arm stroke
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
And an eBay seller has some really clear pics of what the transmission looks like with cables attached. Suppose I could have used the rail selector cable bracket. Not sure why the yard left me the gear selector cable bracket. There's plenty of places to bolt other brackets on.
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JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Interesting tidbit.
The Crosstrek trans still uses the angled selector shaft.
The Crosstrek trans still uses the angled selector shaft.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
For my reference or anybody else's.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Guessing that was in reference to the roll pins lol. Arse being Arse, I suppose. Where'd the comment go???
2018/2019 Crosstrek front axle came in. Hopefully I can see if the snap ring fits on the 5MT axle stubs.
2018/2019 Crosstrek front axle came in. Hopefully I can see if the snap ring fits on the 5MT axle stubs.
arse_sidewards
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 71
- Messages
- 8,555
I was talking about the bendable clip that retains the wiring harness on the side of the trans but then I realized I was looking at the old trans.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
All good. That was my first thought. Edit: the new trans still uses those too lolI was talking about the bendable clip that retains the wiring harness on the side of the trans but then I realized I was looking at the old trans.
Personally, I still like the metal wrap clips over all the plastic.
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JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Sorta planning to. The OE cables have a lot of plastic, and from what I been find, they break before long. Been looking at aftermarket cables.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Exhaust and trans are out. I have to pull the engine to reaseal pretty much everything. Head gaskets, cam seals, and valve cover gaskets are all leaking. Typical Subaru.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
5MT stub snap ring grove OD 1.45"
5MT stub snap ring groove width 0.056"
6MT inner joint groove width 0.087"
Couldn't measure the groove OD as my caliper wouldn't fit in. Thinking of grabbing a Dremel to clamp on my lathe tool post to cut the 5MT stub groove to fit the 6MT ring as that's my easiest route to making the extended-length axles work on the 6MT.
I did test fit the Crosstrek axle in my Outback hub. Fits relatively well, but the seal sizes between the two are different and the Crosstrek doesn't use a tone ring on the axle.
All major differences shown below
Crosstek axles are longer and use a tripod inner CV
Seal surfaces differ, no tone ring (not that I care on my car), spline length of the Crosstrek outer is shorter but leaves enough for the nut to grip.
And the inners. Only real differences are the snap ring grooves and the seal surface.
5MT stub snap ring groove width 0.056"
6MT inner joint groove width 0.087"
Couldn't measure the groove OD as my caliper wouldn't fit in. Thinking of grabbing a Dremel to clamp on my lathe tool post to cut the 5MT stub groove to fit the 6MT ring as that's my easiest route to making the extended-length axles work on the 6MT.
I did test fit the Crosstrek axle in my Outback hub. Fits relatively well, but the seal sizes between the two are different and the Crosstrek doesn't use a tone ring on the axle.
All major differences shown below
Crosstek axles are longer and use a tripod inner CV
Seal surfaces differ, no tone ring (not that I care on my car), spline length of the Crosstrek outer is shorter but leaves enough for the nut to grip.
And the inners. Only real differences are the snap ring grooves and the seal surface.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
And on the shifter control -
I'm kinda back to mini cylinders. Cables are costly and would require thread adaptation due this being a metric transmission and cables made for the U.S. market being SAE. The OE cables end are plastic and around $200 or so for the pair.
Also have the reverse lockout to deal with. This is accomplished on the Crosstrek shifter console. I hate those things with a passion, but there's very little motion on the rail selector arm between the 5/6 rail and reverse. I'll probably wing it for the time being and figure out a detent or some sort of stopper later.
Edit: Think I'll actually stay with cable operation. 8mm rod end on the gear selector pin, 8mm cables from Midwest Control Products, and a 10mm ball to 8mm thread ball joint on the rail selector ball. All matching threads. Hell, all this comes in relatively cheap and all steel parts. Still searching the part. Rod end on Summit Racing and ball joint from McMaster. Rod end might come from MCP as well as soon as I find it. Easier to buy everything from one place, but McMaster is the only place I can find the ball joint with the right sizes.
I'm kinda back to mini cylinders. Cables are costly and would require thread adaptation due this being a metric transmission and cables made for the U.S. market being SAE. The OE cables end are plastic and around $200 or so for the pair.
Also have the reverse lockout to deal with. This is accomplished on the Crosstrek shifter console. I hate those things with a passion, but there's very little motion on the rail selector arm between the 5/6 rail and reverse. I'll probably wing it for the time being and figure out a detent or some sort of stopper later.
Edit: Think I'll actually stay with cable operation. 8mm rod end on the gear selector pin, 8mm cables from Midwest Control Products, and a 10mm ball to 8mm thread ball joint on the rail selector ball. All matching threads. Hell, all this comes in relatively cheap and all steel parts. Still searching the part. Rod end on Summit Racing and ball joint from McMaster. Rod end might come from MCP as well as soon as I find it. Easier to buy everything from one place, but McMaster is the only place I can find the ball joint with the right sizes.
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JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
What I've got so far for the shift control.
Ball joint. 10mm ball, 8-1.25 female threads. For the rail selector.
www.mcmaster.com
Cables. 8-1.25 ends with 18mm bulkhead mounting.
midwestcontrol.com
Rod end. 8mm bore, 8-1.25 female threads. I need to measure the distance from the gear selector plate to the retainer pin hole on the gear selector pin. There's a few options on ball width - the closer to the pin specs, the better, I suppose.
Ball joint. 10mm ball, 8-1.25 female threads. For the rail selector.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com
Cables. 8-1.25 ends with 18mm bulkhead mounting.
Cables, Push-Pull M8 x 1.25 1400 mm Long
M8-1400-BH-BH-76.2, Cables, Push-Pull, M8 x 1.25 1400 mm Long Bulkhead Style 76.2 mm Travel
midwestcontrol.com
Rod end. 8mm bore, 8-1.25 female threads. I need to measure the distance from the gear selector plate to the retainer pin hole on the gear selector pin. There's a few options on ball width - the closer to the pin specs, the better, I suppose.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
0.600".
About to dismantle some of the Outback shifter assembly. Kinda looks like it won't be much trouble to fit some cables to it.
About to dismantle some of the Outback shifter assembly. Kinda looks like it won't be much trouble to fit some cables to it.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Posting the Torq Locker part number here for later reference. Torq Master's website doesn't work all that well.
For the 5-bolt open rear - TL-R1605B
For the 1-bolt open rear - TL-R1601B
For the 5-bolt open rear - TL-R1605B
For the 1-bolt open rear - TL-R1601B
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arse_sidewards
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 71
- Messages
- 8,555
At least the part number makes sense.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Posting for later.
www.iagperformance.com
Air Lift Replacement Air Spring Sleeve Type - 58405
This Air Lift replacement sleeve is an exact replacement for an original Air Lift air spring. It is made with sturdy rubber construction and synthetic fabric reinforcement.
www.iagperformance.com
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Parts website is working for me again. The above axle stubs are for the front diff.
The left is what is more commonly found in the earlier manual transmissions and is a 38415AA100.
The right is what is found in the 4EAT and is a 38415AA070.
My 5MT stubs are a direct fit to the Crosstrek 6MT other than the Crosstrek using the snap ring that is found on almost all other inboard CV axle splines. I only need to head to a local yard to yank the stubs from an auto scoob.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
McMaster parts for the trans are ordered. Hopefully headed to the Pick n Pull this week to grab a few parts. Should be ordered the cables soon.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Stuff arrived.
OE 5MT shifter uses an M8 bolt with an M8 x M12 x M33.2 spacer to fit a clevis style setup.
![20230210_153021[1].jpg](https://irate4x4.com/attachments/20230210_153021-1-jpg.645134/ "20230210_153021[1].jpg")
Rather than using an OE Crosstrek shifter that's almost all plastic and probably an awkward fit for my Outback, I'm fitting parts to use my OE shifter and adapting M8 cables to.
Accurate Mfg. Products group Z1636MPAK-! 40-43mm Grip Button Socket 12mm barrel.
QA1 MXFR8 rod ends.
Suspa D68-01092 ball joint for the rail selector on the 6MT.
I had the parts picked out and then hastily ordered them before checking fitment once more. For some reason, I was thinking a rod end would slip over the barrel OD. I'll either grab and machine a spacer or order a shorter barrel screw. Don't think there will be enough threads left in the barrel if I just machine it to length. A cone spacer is probably best so that the rod end is guaranteed plenty of flex.
![20230210_161429[1].jpg](https://irate4x4.com/attachments/20230210_161429-1-jpg.645136/ "20230210_161429[1].jpg")
On another note, I seem to be getting parts from McMaster quicker and cheaper than anywhere else. They used to cost more than most anyone. Their catalog is better than most, as usual.
OE 5MT shifter uses an M8 bolt with an M8 x M12 x M33.2 spacer to fit a clevis style setup.
Rather than using an OE Crosstrek shifter that's almost all plastic and probably an awkward fit for my Outback, I'm fitting parts to use my OE shifter and adapting M8 cables to.
Accurate Mfg. Products group Z1636MPAK-! 40-43mm Grip Button Socket 12mm barrel.
QA1 MXFR8 rod ends.
Suspa D68-01092 ball joint for the rail selector on the 6MT.
I had the parts picked out and then hastily ordered them before checking fitment once more. For some reason, I was thinking a rod end would slip over the barrel OD. I'll either grab and machine a spacer or order a shorter barrel screw. Don't think there will be enough threads left in the barrel if I just machine it to length. A cone spacer is probably best so that the rod end is guaranteed plenty of flex.
On another note, I seem to be getting parts from McMaster quicker and cheaper than anywhere else. They used to cost more than most anyone. Their catalog is better than most, as usual.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Reverse engineering.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Ass end of the 6MT. Same, but different.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Reason for taking both apart is I was working on the idea of designing a bolt-on crawl box for the Subaru manual transmission. As usual, Subaru has change part specs again, making the idea even more difficult. Perhaps I'll continue on this later on if/when I have more spare transmission parts on hand for measuring and test fitting. For now, I'll be putting my shit back together and getting on with putting my car back on the road.
I still have to pull the engine and tear it down to replace several seal. This might take a couple months due to funds.
I still have to pull the engine and tear it down to replace several seal. This might take a couple months due to funds.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Gonna run the engine as is and fix or replace it later.
Putting the 6MT back together. Wanted to investigate compatibility between tail housing internals.
The 6MT uses tapered bearings. The outboard bearing race on the output shaft doesn't fit in the housing bore snuggly and spins on the shim. Great.
The outboard roller beating of the 5MT fits. Both shafts mesh properly, but the 6MT uses a longer shaft, therefore the inboard bearing pocket is deeper in the extension housing.
I can't get the inboard bearing numbers off the 6MT shaft without pulling either race. And I doubt any of the parts supplier will show it.
May not be worth it, but I'm considering getting new roller bearings to swap onto the 6MT shaft so that I'm not dealing with spun bearings and shims keeping alignment.
Outboard 5MT roller
Inboard 5MT roller
Putting the 6MT back together. Wanted to investigate compatibility between tail housing internals.
The 6MT uses tapered bearings. The outboard bearing race on the output shaft doesn't fit in the housing bore snuggly and spins on the shim. Great.
The outboard roller beating of the 5MT fits. Both shafts mesh properly, but the 6MT uses a longer shaft, therefore the inboard bearing pocket is deeper in the extension housing.
I can't get the inboard bearing numbers off the 6MT shaft without pulling either race. And I doubt any of the parts supplier will show it.
May not be worth it, but I'm considering getting new roller bearings to swap onto the 6MT shaft so that I'm not dealing with spun bearings and shims keeping alignment.
Outboard 5MT roller
Inboard 5MT roller
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Started wiping the 6MT inboard race clean and it spun too. So I pulled it out. It's smaller than the 5MT inboard roller. I'll punch in the bearings to get dims and see what I can change out.
Think I may file a small drain groove at the bottom of the pocket. There was a reasonable amount of crud held behind the bearing race.
Think I may file a small drain groove at the bottom of the pocket. There was a reasonable amount of crud held behind the bearing race.
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JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Found the dims on all four bearings. Going to see what's out there as far as a ball bearing replacement for the small tapered bearing in the 6MT. Looks like the large ball bearing is a direct swap.
