The Moonshine Motel - Enclosed Gooseneck "Crawler Hauler" Build

[Drummer79]

Wired in the genny control, transfer switch, and 240v breaker box today. Got the Ac put back together and wired as well. We have cold air boys :D Running the Ac overnight as a test, but damn does it work well, even without insulation.

I'm amped as fuck.

What kind of AC is that? Looks like it would fit well in a boat. is it under a hatch sucking in outside air or anything?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

What kind of AC is that? Looks like it would fit well in a boat. is it under a hatch sucking in outside air or anything?

It's your typical RV rooftop unit. Mounted to the roof, and the only thing inside is that grill/control pictured.

It could work on a boat, just need to have 120v AC to power it.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Rewind to last Tuesday, I heated and beat the hinge flat so the door was closed enough for travel. Looking at this pic now, you can see the cracking developing in the door frame around where the hinge is welded on. But it closed enough to get the door bar latched, and I was able to roll out to Windrock.

Got in my spot, and unloaded Moonshine. Pulling out, the hinge snapped off, and in process, totally taco'd the door lol

Also, the drive over ramps didn't stay in position while unloading, and the center support rolled. Didn't permanently damage the ramp, but I need to come up with a way to keep these in place. Wasn't keen on screwing them to the floor directly, but that may be the best route:

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Took 5 guys pushing on the ramp door to get it closed enough to latch, but that's fine. Repositioned and set up:

Had to move the rig after the first night due to a paul blart looking mf'er on a power trip, but overall the rig was a great success. Ran the rooftop AC off of my honda eu2200i no problem, which was an awesome surprise.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Workaround for the broken ramp door hinge (only one out of the three was broken) was to use jackstands to straddle the hinge. Loaded at windrock that way no issue, and unloaded at my house yesterday no issue. What was unexpected was that the door straightened itself out after that last loading/unloading session. Can't explain that, but I'm hopeful that I can repair this door instead of completely rebuilding it now. This pic is with the door being held up by the door spring only, no door bar locks closed. I'm stoked about this.

Also, the awning light and under-goose light came in over the weekend. Should be good quality, we will see:

Finally, the whole rig gross weight is right about 24,500# coming home. That's minus beer, some water, and firewood. She's heaver than expected, and I expect it'll be around 26k when fully finished and wet. Getting close to the actual axle ratings (tandem 7ks). :o

Comparing to the empty weight from a month ago, it looks like I picked up almost no pin weight, and 7000# of trailer axle weight. Wondering if I need to drop the hitch height to gain some more pin weight, or if this is what it is. The wheeling rig straddles the wheel wells of the trailer, so I need to either change my ramp situation to get the truck farther forward, or figure out how to add weight to the pin.

 

[Firstram]

Awesome

 

[87manche]

I assume you want the drive over ramps to be removable?
build them as a self contained truss with a bottom plank. Let you screw them all together and make them stable, without permanently bolting them to the floor. At least that way you can huck them under the trailer for the weekend.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I assume you want the drive over ramps to be removable?
build them as a self contained truss with a bottom plank. Let you screw them all together and make them stable, without permanently bolting them to the floor. At least that way you can huck them under the trailer for the weekend.

Good idea. Had considered that, but I was trying to use up scraps.

I am going to chop up the fender wells in the trailer to get the wheeling rig farther forward, meaning the ramps will have to get modified to suit. I'll use your suggestion then.

 

[ParadisePWoffrd]

Also, you could use the fenderwell to "key" the ramps into place. If they go over top or around the ends of the fenderwell, they cant slide front to back when driving over them.

Or, if you are going to have to rebuild the fenderwell anyway, could use some tubing to allow them to be driven over.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Also, you could use the fenderwell to "key" the ramps into place. If they go over top or around the ends of the fenderwell, they cant slide front to back when driving over them.

Or, if you are going to have to rebuild the fenderwell anyway, could use some tubing to allow them to be driven over.

Great minds my man. I didn't picture it, but I set these ramps up with some wood blocks spaced to lock into the fender wells. Worked well driving in, but coming out I must have turned the wheel, which kicked the ramp out from the fender wells.

Tubing though, that's another good one. Just need one hoop per side to make them strong enough

 

[ridered3]

For the 38' trailer I made some removable driveover fenders out of scrap pieces of 4x6 and smooth plywood. I "keyed/sandwiched" the front and rear faces of the driveovers with the actual trailer fenders to make sure they didn't move when loading/unloading. They weren't screwed into anything since I would unload, and pull the driveovers out when people stayed in the back half of that trailer (which seemed like most trips). It wasn't bad for the amount of effort I put into them, but they were overly wide and pretty heavy/awkward to move all the time.

I'm really pleased with the driveovers in the 28' trailer we have now. They are screwed to the trailer fenders, don't take up much floor space since they are ~5' wide, and seem very secure to driveover. Plus they double as extra seats inside of the trailer too.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

For the 38' trailer I made some removable driveover fenders out of scrap pieces of 4x6 and smooth plywood. I "keyed/sandwiched" the front and rear faces of the driveovers with the actual trailer fenders to make sure they didn't move when loading/unloading. They weren't screwed into anything since I would unload, and pull the driveovers out when people stayed in the back half of that trailer (which seemed like most trips). It wasn't bad for the amount of effort I put into them, but they were overly wide and pretty heavy/awkward to move all the time.

I'm really pleased with the driveovers in the 28' trailer we have now. They are screwed to the trailer fenders, don't take up much floor space since they are ~5' wide, and seem very secure to driveover. Plus they double as extra seats inside of the trailer too.

Just for reference, these are the ones you still have right?

Pic of ridered3 's trailer interior:

 

[87manche]

Good idea. Had considered that, but I was trying to use up scraps.

I am going to chop up the fender wells in the trailer to get the wheeling rig farther forward, meaning the ramps will have to get modified to suit. I'll use your suggestion then.

I'd maybe even consider some sort of mesh steel on the bottom for the grips on the trailer floor. Or maybe just some glued on sandpaper?
for those times you have to load your junk and only the front axle works.
BTDT, kicking ramps out. Had to use the winch to load it.

 

[ridered3]

Just for reference, these are the ones you still have right?

Pic of ridered3 's trailer interior:

Correct. They work well and match my 106'' wheelbase/tire contact areas perfectly so the rig sits perfectly between them.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I'd maybe even consider some sort of mesh steel on the bottom for the grips on the trailer floor. Or maybe just some glued on sandpaper?
for those times you have to load your junk and only the front axle works.
BTDT, kicking ramps out. Had to use the winch to load it.

Almost had that exact problem this past weekend. Fried the rear driveshaft in my wheeler.

I'll have to go through the pics, I want to say my rear axle is in the gap between the ramp door and the trailer deck when the front is climbing the ramp. Good tip man, thank you.

 

[87manche]

Almost had that exact problem this past weekend. Fried the rear driveshaft in my wheeler.

I'll have to go through the pics, I want to say my rear axle is in the gap between the ramp door and the trailer deck when the front is climbing the ramp. Good tip man, thank you.

I had the same problem.
rear tires coming off the ramp and the lip of the door opening, front tires on the ramp incline.
uhaul wheel wells were gigantic, so I only ever had kicker ramps on the front to get over because there was 0 traction on the aluminum floor.
turns out the ramps don't grip on the aluminum floor either.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Fixed up the hinges on the ramp door finally. Jacked the door up squareish, cleaned and welded the broken hinge on, then scabbed on a 2"x6" piece of 3/16" plate. Seems to be better now.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Chopped a 45* incline to the back of the wheel wells to allow moonshine to move about 5" farther forward. Shortened the ramps, and screwed them to the floor this time. Should work well.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Picked up a led palm tree because nostalgia, and stuck a waterproof outlet on the curb side. It has big rubber glands front and back to keep water out, should work well.

Finally, picked up some 4' led shop lights and screwed them to the roof. I have a ton of 12v puck lights that I intend to put in when the ceiling is in, but these will work wonderfully until then, either on genny power, or on shore power, or with the future inverter.

Also, apparently my Ac unit wasn't installed in the center of the roof, lol. The lights are centered.

Rolling out for AOAA and Rausch Creek Wednesday night.

 

[ridered3]

Changes to the ramp door hinge and fender wheels look great!

I’ll just let you borrow the 700 pounds of weight I need to lose for your additional PIN weight.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Weight slip heading out to AOAA/Rausch this past weekend. Somehow I picked up 500# of weight. Not sure if I was more full of fuel on this scale, or I drink more beer than I thought, but iiwii. Big thing is that weight is mostly on the truck now, and not on the trailer. Between the repairs/tires on the ford, or increased (assumed) pin weight, the trailer tows rock solid now. This rig absolutely crushes miles.

Set up at AOAA trailhead campground:

Set up at Twin Grove RV resort for Coal Mine Cruiser Classic:

The inside makes a pretty good covered workspace for putting together wheels and tires:

I love this palm tree

 

[ridered3]

Glad you are getting to enjoy it after all the work! While it's a great way to describe where you are setup for the weekend, can't decide if I want to show the Palm Tree to the wife or not since she'll want one or three of them as well.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Glad you are getting to enjoy it after all the work! While it's a great way to describe where you are setup for the weekend, can't decide if I want to show the Palm Tree to the wife or not since she'll want one or three of them as well.

Haha, get one, you know you want it too!!

 

[ridered3]

Haha, get one, you know you want it too!!

It would certainly make for an easy way to describe which place is ours.

 

[Firstram]

Glad to see you enjoying it instead of working on it!

Insulation in the near future?

 

[vetteboy79]

Set up at Twin Grove RV resort for Coal Mine Cruiser Classic:

You should see that place when they do the East Coast Bronco Roundup. Definitely some beautiful trucks that come out for that one.

My group stays there twice a year for events, great facility but it sure isn't getting any cheaper.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Glad to see you enjoying it instead of working on it!

Insulation in the near future?

Right? That was the goal, lol.

Haven't decided what I want to do for insulation yet. Still not sure if sprayfoam or insulation boards are the better option, but I am thinking of cutting the e-track off the walls before doing that now. Just don't see myself using the e-track with how the truck sits in the trailer.

Maybe insulation this winter, we will see.

You should see that place when they do the East Coast Bronco Roundup. Definitely some beautiful trucks that come out for that one.

My group stays there twice a year for events, great facility but it sure isn't getting any cheaper.

Nice. It's a good place, but you're right, it's not cheap. That being said, when the hell did Rausch creek get so fucking expensive? $50+ a day per driver/truck? Fuck that noise.

 

[ridered3]

Got any updates on the Motel?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Not a thing. Still mulling over the layout of the shower/shitter.

Feel like I want to have a 27"x42" wet bath, but I don't want to sacrifice that much space to a shower/shitter situation. I think I'm going to do a 27"x27" shower pan/bathroom stall and just move the composting toilet when I want to take a shower.

I am trying to get my hands on some insulation at a good deal, hopefully tomorrow. If I can get some, I'll get to work on the trailer again to get it insulated before the trips coming up later this year.

 

[ridered3]

Not a thing. Still mulling over the layout of the shower/shitter.

Feel like I want to have a 27"x42" wet bath, but I don't want to sacrifice that much space to a shower/shitter situation. I think I'm going to do a 27"x27" shower pan/bathroom stall and just move the composting toilet when I want to take a shower.

I am trying to get my hands on some insulation at a good deal, hopefully tomorrow. If I can get some, I'll get to work on the trailer again to get it insulated before the trips coming up later this year.

Understandable all around on not much progress. Other than for storage and to replace taillight assemblies with some bright ass LED's, I haven't touched ours in two months. Thankfully changing that with planned trips in mid-September and late November.

For the wet bath, that was the one thing the wife said we would not have. She's pretty lenient on amenities, but said no to a shower/shitter combo unit. The current trailer came with a composting/portable toilet, but we never used it. Swapped it out for a plastic toilet and small-ish black tank. Thankfully our rig fits just right to have a shower and separate toilet, but we are quite a bit smaller rig wise.