The Moonshine Motel - Enclosed Gooseneck "Crawler Hauler" Build

[GLTHFJ60]

Understandable all around on not much progress. Other than for storage and to replace taillight assemblies with some bright ass LED's, I haven't touched ours in two months. Thankfully changing that with planned trips in mid-September and late November.

For the wet bath, that was the one thing the wife said we would not have. She's pretty lenient on amenities, but said no to a shower/shitter combo unit. The current trailer came with a composting/portable toilet, but we never used it. Swapped it out for a plastic toilet and small-ish black tank. Thankfully our rig fits just right to have a shower and separate toilet, but we are quite a bit smaller rig wise.

In hindsight, another 4' longer trailer (32' OAL) would fit my rig and junk better, but I love how nimble this trailer is.


For me the shower is the more important thing, but it would be nice to have a separate shower/bathroom. I have had an idea to put the terlet upstairs in the bedroom in a legit dry bath, then the shower downstairs but I'd need to move to a smaller mattress I think. I could get away with having the mattress sideways, but I don't know if I love the idea of the toilet upstairs anyway. I still have to mull that over.

In any case, the trailer needs to be insulated next, which will be precluded by painting the inside steel structures, sealing the panels to the studs with flexseal (or something like that) to prevent water from getting into the stud cavities, and finally resealing the roof. All of that is to prevent water intrusion as much as I can. Once all that's done, insulation, wall covering, more paint, then really actually deciding the layout.

Something I'm really enjoying is that everything is flexible right now, which means if I don't like something on a trip, I can easily change it. I intend to continue that mindset with the interior floor plan until it's been used a few times. One of those things is the power center, I want that to be on the ground floor so that I can use it without being up on the ladder.

 

[ridered3]

In hindsight, another 4' longer trailer (32' OAL) would fit my rig and junk better, but I love how nimble this trailer is.


For me the shower is the more important thing, but it would be nice to have a separate shower/bathroom. I have had an idea to put the terlet upstairs in the bedroom in a legit dry bath, then the shower downstairs but I'd need to move to a smaller mattress I think. I could get away with having the mattress sideways, but I don't know if I love the idea of the toilet upstairs anyway. I still have to mull that over.

In any case, the trailer needs to be insulated next, which will be precluded by painting the inside steel structures, sealing the panels to the studs with flexseal (or something like that) to prevent water from getting into the stud cavities, and finally resealing the roof. All of that is to prevent water intrusion as much as I can. Once all that's done, insulation, wall covering, more paint, then really actually deciding the layout.

Something I'm really enjoying is that everything is flexible right now, which means if I don't like something on a trip, I can easily change it. I intend to continue that mindset with the interior floor plan until it's been used a few times. One of those things is the power center, I want that to be on the ground floor so that I can use it without being up on the ladder.

All that makes sense to me. I felt hampered by the overall length of the 38' trailer, so really like the 28' trailer.

As far as flexibility goes, when you think you have a layout you like, tape it off/use cardboard to build boxes to represent where things may potentially go. Then spend a weekend camping around the tape/boxes to see if the layout works or not.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I like the cardboard idea. I might go so far as to make a little kitchenette in the proposed size with wood material I have on hand. Gotta figure out how to convert my rooftop AC to ducted before I build the partition wall that separates the bedroom from the rest of the camper though.

In good news I was able to pick up insulation today. Was hemming and hawing about what insulation method to use and found a guy on craigslist selling 4x8 sheets of foil-backed EPS for $12 a sheet. That pretty much made my mind up for me. Picked up 25 sheets this morning, so it's about time to start moving forward with the project again.

 

[Firstram]

For it to reflect the heat back out, leave a gap between the foil and the skin.

 

[ridered3]

I like the cardboard idea. I might go so far as to make a little kitchenette in the proposed size with wood material I have on hand. Gotta figure out how to convert my rooftop AC to ducted before I build the partition wall that separates the bedroom from the rest of the camper though.

In good news I was able to pick up insulation today. Was hemming and hawing about what insulation method to use and found a guy on craigslist selling 4x8 sheets of foil-backed EPS for $12 a sheet. That pretty much made my mind up for me. Picked up 25 sheets this morning, so it's about time to start moving forward with the project again.

I just one-upped my own idea for cardboard. Swing by a yard sale and buy a Little Tikes kitchen as the stand-in/space filler

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Finally some updates.

I sprayed down all the surface rust inside the trailer with ospho to convert it, then masked all the important bits off and sprayed a gallon of rustoleum white on all of the wall steel. Really brightened the place up.

Thanks to Mr Stubs account of how well this stuff works, I picked up a 5 gallon bucket of it. Expensive, but hopefully worth it.

Plan is to spray the interior wall cavities with this stuff to provide a tiny amount of insulation, but more importantly to create a vapor barrier, to prevent water from getting into the wall cavities from the sheet seams. I should have enough left over from painting the inside to then go back and do the whole roof on the outside. After that, insulation.

 

[DT75FLH]

I believe that works best on the roof as a top coat for insulation value

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I believe that works best on the roof as a top coat for insulation value

Agree, and I intend to use it on the roof as well. I was thinking this would give me a good moisture barrier inside the wall cavities as well.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Got a wild hair to do some last minute work on the motel last night.

Picked up this old workbench base at habitat a few days ago thinking it would make a neat looking kitchenette base. Before putting it in, I replaced the front floor section again to be able to put a proper access hatch in for the underneath storage, then replaced the header panel insulation with 1" (instead of 2") with thicker ply. This netted about 3/4" extra room, which is welcome.

The space to the left of what will become the kitchenette is for a wet bath. Currently deciding if it's large enough, or if the kitchenette needs to be narrower.

Ready for another trip.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Painted the interior walls of the motel with tropicool. It really added some mass, and sounds much less tinny when closing the man door now.

Gonna let it cure then start laying in insulation. Used probably 4 gallons total to do this.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Tropicool cures fast.

Big start on the wall cavity insulation today. Went pretty well. Leaving on a trip in a few days, stoked to see if it feels any different.

 

[ParadisePWoffrd]

Tropicool cures fast.

Big start on the wall cavity insulation today. Went pretty well. Leaving on a trip in a few days, stoked to see if it feels any different.

Once you get the roof coated and insulated, I bet it makes the biggest difference.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Once you get the roof coated and insulated, I bet it makes the biggest difference.

100%. Going to frame out the diving wall/cabinetry and shower area before tackling the roof. Have some leaks to fix up there, mull over replacing some vents with better fans, etc. Hopefully this winter, then find a warm day when I can do the tropicool to the outer roof skin.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

During the last trip, I ran a couple of medium sized buddy heaters in the motel to take the chill out. After running the two for a few hours, I cut them down to low and maintained that all night. Kept the trailer nice and cozy. I'll chalk that up to the tropicool air sealing more than anything, as there's no insulation in the ceiling yet, but I'm stoked.


Have another trip in a few weeks, and have been plugging away at the next phase. Goals are:

1. Plumb the fresh water tank
2. Reinforce the floor where the kitchentte will go (current plywood is cupping a bit)
3. Move the electrical controls into the kitchentte
4. Build the dividing wall

I've been plugging away the past couple of days towards those ends. Pulled up the front two floor pieces, got some bracing in, routed the fill and vent lines for the water tank through to the fill point on the exterior, then routed the tap line into where the kitchentte will go.

Added the angle iron center frame, and shimmed up the storage box with some steel to act as the second support. Floor is plenty rigid now.

The tank came with these "uniseal" things that are pretty neat. There are no glued-on or formed-in threaded connections on this tank at all. The uniseal works by cutting a hole in the tank, pushing the seal in, then pushing the appropriate size PVC through the seal. This forces the seal against the wall of the tank, and it's good to go.

Cut some holes in the crossmembers and routed the lines:

Detail of the tap. Put this ball valve in there with enough slack in the tap line so that I can rotate the ball valve down to the ground and drain the system.

Floor back in with the tap line through the floor into the kitchentte area.

Currently mulling over how to build this dividing wall. I'm inclined to cut away some of the insulated sub-floor and build a steel frame on top of the goose, but I'm not married to that idea. There's not much wood to attach to in the goose area. Open to ideas on how to frame this out. Included will be a cabinet that will hold a fridge and microwave.

Suppose I should update my CAD model to reflect my plan to make it easier to understand.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Got some work done on the wiring reroute and new kitchenette build. Ended up including a glory hole, lol.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

More progress tonight. Got the 120/240v wiring operational again. Moving the ground wires to a dedicated bus bar as soon as it arrives. It will be nice to work with real light again instead of a single task light. Ill probably add a 120v and a 240v outlet to the bottom of this cabinet for tools/vacuums inside.

Thinking that I'll frame out the dividing wall next, then work on laying in some 12v lights.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Got the dividing wall framed out, the 12v interior lights hung, first bank of them wired, then installed the 12v battery system. Interior 12v lights aren't super bright, but they're bright enough!

Onwards and upwards.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Finished wiring the interior 12v lights, and added the exterior LED strips from a company called Boogie Lights. Have light switches for the interior lights to match the LED strip switch on the way, but the LED strips have a dimmer :D

 

[GLTHFJ60]

More progress. Insulation in the goose, sheeted the goose side of the dividing wall, put a fuse in for the battery, and switches for the interior lights.

 

[JohnnyJ]

Nice progress

 

[GLTHFJ60]

More progress the past couple days. Looks like I'm gonna have running water for the windrock trip next week.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Water and hot water are now operational, minus the outlet I need to add for the hot water heater. Filled the under floor water tank as well. It has a big sag in it now that it's full, but I'm assuming that's expected. This tank is supposedly designed to hang like I have it set up.

Lighted carling switch to turn the pump on and off, which will end up right under the lip of the counter. Should be perfect.

 

[87manche]

designed for it or not I would be worried about that tank bottom

I'd put straps under it.
but I'm usually overkill.

 

[aczlan]

designed for it or not I would be worried about that tank bottom

I'd put straps under it.
but I'm usually overkill.

I would do straps with rubber between them and the tank...

Aaron Z

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Tank straps added. Once that was in, we filled it again, and it bulged on top, pushing the floor up, lol.

Turns out that after overfilling the tank, the fill vent gets covered with water, and it just swells. Will make sure not to overfill in the future.

I then hand planed the coatings off of the counter top and resealed it with stained poly in the house so it cures faster. Should be about one more coat and she's golden, then I can install everything for good.

 

[Dan's EB]

That's beautiful. Great work man.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Installed and mostly plumbed. Think I'm gonna rock the bucket for the sink drain for now, plumb the grey tank in later.

Please pardon the dust on the counter. The finish came out great.

Forgot to include this before, but I stuck a GFCI outlet in the wet side of the cabinet for the water heater. We now have hot and cold water though the faucet

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Another great trip. All of the additions were welcome. A buddy heater up in the goose was enough to keep us warm and cozy while sleeping. Never fired up the generator, which was really nice, and as such we didn't have hot water, but the running water was awesome. May end up running a diesel heater water heater in conjunction with this point of use tank so I can avoid using the genny altogether when I don't need AC.

The LED strip lights on the outside are fucking awesome, and even better that they're dimmable. Interior LED lights are just bright enough.

Need to add more tables inside, work on getting the spare tires I carry stowed somewhere other than the floor inside, and hopefully.

10/10

 

[Brad]

Just tuning in but damn that all looks fantastic!!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Sold some junk and bought this bad boy. Gonna be a squeeze to get it into the electrical compartment, so we'll see what can be done.