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The 3D printer thread

spaceman said:
Oops. Guess I get fawk around with the hair dryer tonight to get this off of the P1P cover. (Happened on an overnight print, didn't see it until a couple of hours after it happened). That's the silicone sock stuck in the middle of the blob, the nozzle itself is just fine.


20241111_084349 (1).jpg
20241111_084357.jpg
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Funny, that happened to mine the other day. Found some socks on Amazon, they got here before the Bambu ones would have.
 
My Bambu P1S with AMS shipped out today. I have been using an Creality with the Creality Slicer. I know how to change the values, but I still feel very confused about the project files it creates. I kinda would like to be able to choose my machine, my material and slice. Is that too much to ask?? Should I look at something besides the Bambu slicer, or is Orca the way to go? I plan to use Fusion360 for any of my neophyte design. When I took drafting classes we were doing 3 views with mechanical pencils…
 
cervelorod said:
I kinda would like to be able to choose my machine, my material and slice. Is that too much to ask??
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I used to use Simplify3D with 3 different printers. It did just that. It was great. I am looking into getting a bambu p1s now
 
cervelorod said:
My Bambu P1S with AMS shipped out today. I have been using an Creality with the Creality Slicer. I know how to change the values, but I still feel very confused about the project files it creates. I kinda would like to be able to choose my machine, my material and slice. Is that too much to ask?? Should I look at something besides the Bambu slicer, or is Orca the way to go? I plan to use Fusion360 for any of my neophyte design. When I took drafting classes we were doing 3 views with mechanical pencils…
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Untimaker Cura? That is what I use, pretty easy even for me
 
cervelorod said:
My Bambu P1S with AMS shipped out today. I have been using an Creality with the Creality Slicer. I know how to change the values, but I still feel very confused about the project files it creates. I kinda would like to be able to choose my machine, my material and slice. Is that too much to ask?? Should I look at something besides the Bambu slicer, or is Orca the way to go? I plan to use Fusion360 for any of my neophyte design. When I took drafting classes we were doing 3 views with mechanical pencils…
Click to expand...

Bambu slicer will auto adjust all the settings depending on the material you choose. You can change everything from the standard it picks depending what you’re trying to do. The only time I’ve had problems with the slicer is when I didn’t input the correct filament of extruder size for what I was running at the time.
 
If anyone wants to get rid of fumes, I highly recommend the Nevermore Stealthmax. It has HEPA for the plastic particles and a shitload of charcoal for the VOCs. I can sit next to the printer now and don't smell anything. It didn't affect chamber temps, which still sit around ~62°C.
20241111_100214.jpg
 
ndsgr said:
If anyone wants to get rid of fumes, I highly recommend the Nevermore Stealthmax. It has HEPA for the plastic particles and a shitload of charcoal for the VOCs. I can sit next to the printer now and don't smell anything. It didn't affect chamber temps, which still sit around ~62°C.
20241111_100214.jpg
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I looked it up...so you buy a parts kit and print the thing yourself? Does it require one per machine? I've been looking into filtration since apparently I'm putting my two in a walk in closet now.
 
Nevermore has a few designs out there, all open source and for different applications. You can self source parts, but the kits are often worth not hunting stuff down. They are just hardware and electronics, you provide printed parts. I think they only really work on enclosed printers though. You can use a standard room air purifier for open printers, but I think the charcoal in those are really just a placebo for this application.

This filter is primarily designed for Voron, but can work for other large printers. It is one per machine. Some other designs fit in the enclosure completely - i have another one in the enclosure, but it only has charcoal, no HEPA. I probably don't need it anymore, but it doesn't hurt.

Some of their filters are well documented and have step by step instructions. The Stealthmax does not. It took a lot of flipping between Github, Discord, and Fusion to figure it out. Apparently a build guide is in work, but that's been said since the beginning of the year. Also, the outer shell for this design requires at least a 300mm bed to print. Again, they have smaller ones too.

Edit: I print ABS almost exclusively. If it works on that, it should work fine for PLA.
 
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A buddy sent me that link and I went down the bumper/big body panels prints rabbit hole. Looks like most model a big piece but print in sections and glue them together.
 
4Eyedturd said:
A buddy sent me that link and I went down the bumper/big body panels prints rabbit hole. Looks like most model a big piece but print in sections and glue them together.
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Just like the 3D lab prints airplanes.
 
cervelorod said:
My Bambu P1S with AMS shipped out today. I have been using an Creality with the Creality Slicer. I know how to change the values, but I still feel very confused about the project files it creates. I kinda would like to be able to choose my machine, my material and slice. Is that too much to ask?? Should I look at something besides the Bambu slicer, or is Orca the way to go? I plan to use Fusion360 for any of my neophyte design. When I took drafting classes we were doing 3 views with mechanical pencils…
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Definitely use Bambu Studio for your slicer. Though Orca is good too, I default to Bambu studio most of the time
 
92 Green YJ said:
Definitely use Bambu Studio for your slicer. Though Orca is good too, I default to Bambu studio most of the time
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I think I have a project for you if you are intrested. I need one of these 3D printed with an air cleaner base around it to hold an air filter i have picked out. Printing a new one with the air filter base included or making something I can install from the bottom and epoxy to the stack would also work. Here is a picture of the part I need the base for.....

20241113_095056.jpg


I can ship you the velocity stack and the air filter if you need to scan them or anything.
 
Gots_a_sol said:
In the useful prints realm, anybody seen an stl for something like this?
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I'll finish it tomorrow. What size(s) do you want?

Other options:
1. Inset lettering and marks as opposed to raised. reduce wearing and breaking off.
2. Arm lettering and marks on 0° or 180° (as shown) of base.
3. Arm end, on outside of tube to go flush with bottom of base (as shown in your example) or with top (as I have). I left on top to ensure the arm rests on the tube.
4. What color(s) do you want?
5. What sort of accuracy are we looking at with your printer and filament? Looking for a rough idea what to make the slip in the pivot.

Extra holes are for hanging on a peg board.

1731533967186.png

1731534166177.png
 
ndsgr said:
Nevermore has a few designs out there, all open source and for different applications. You can self source parts, but the kits are often worth not hunting stuff down. They are just hardware and electronics, you provide printed parts. I think they only really work on enclosed printers though. You can use a standard room air purifier for open printers, but I think the charcoal in those are really just a placebo for this application.

This filter is primarily designed for Voron, but can work for other large printers. It is one per machine. Some other designs fit in the enclosure completely - i have another one in the enclosure, but it only has charcoal, no HEPA. I probably don't need it anymore, but it doesn't hurt.

Some of their filters are well documented and have step by step instructions. The Stealthmax does not. It took a lot of flipping between Github, Discord, and Fusion to figure it out. Apparently a build guide is in work, but that's been said since the beginning of the year. Also, the outer shell for this design requires at least a 300mm bed to print. Again, they have smaller ones too.

Edit: I print ABS almost exclusively. If it works on that, it should work fine for PLA.
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This company looks like they're selling the complete unit, but it's the smaller models.

west3d.com

Nevermore V6 Complete and Built Kits

Please note, we have updated to Nevermore V6 in most instances, this is a much harder part to assemble and print. The Nevermore V6 Duo is a 2 fan, activated carbon filter for enclosed printers that removes VOCs and reduces the odor from filaments like ABS or ASA that release fumes. It can be...
west3d.com west3d.com
 
FlatLander said:
I'll finish it tomorrow. What size(s) do you want?

Other options:
1. Inset lettering and marks as opposed to raised. reduce wearing and breaking off.
2. Arm lettering and marks on 0° or 180° (as shown) of base.
3. Arm end, on outside of tube to go flush with bottom of base (as shown in your example) or with top (as I have). I left on top to ensure the arm rests on the tube.
4. What color(s) do you want?
5. What sort of accuracy are we looking at with your printer and filament? Looking for a rough idea what to make the slip in the pivot.

Extra holes are for hanging on a peg board.

1731533967186.png

1731534166177.png
Click to expand...
What cad program are you using?
 
Dead Pool said:
This company looks like they're selling the complete unit, but it's the smaller models.

west3d.com

Nevermore V6 Complete and Built Kits

Please note, we have updated to Nevermore V6 in most instances, this is a much harder part to assemble and print. The Nevermore V6 Duo is a 2 fan, activated carbon filter for enclosed printers that removes VOCs and reduces the odor from filaments like ABS or ASA that release fumes. It can be...
west3d.com west3d.com
Click to expand...
West3D is a solid company and that is the exact internal filter I have. It definitely helps on the fumes, but doesn't eliminate them; nor does it do anything for microplastics. Also, for hot enclosed printers (>60°C) you need two types of carbon for it to be effective.

A smaller one that does both VOCs and particles is the Nevermore Mini (link: Nevermore Mini). I can't vouch for it as I haven't used it.

In the pic of my printer below, you can see the one you linked under the bed in the center.

Voron_50.jpg
 
FlatLander said:
I'll finish it tomorrow. What size(s) do you want?

Other options:
1. Inset lettering and marks as opposed to raised. reduce wearing and breaking off.
2. Arm lettering and marks on 0° or 180° (as shown) of base.
3. Arm end, on outside of tube to go flush with bottom of base (as shown in your example) or with top (as I have). I left on top to ensure the arm rests on the tube.
4. What color(s) do you want?
5. What sort of accuracy are we looking at with your printer and filament? Looking for a rough idea what to make the slip in the pivot.

Extra holes are for hanging on a peg board.

1731533967186.png

1731534166177.png
Click to expand...

That's awesome man.

3" and 2.5" OD tube for the exhaust and intercooler piping on my IH project but I don't know the radius yet as I haven't ordered any of it.

1. Inset definitely seems more durable.
2 and 3 as you have done
4. I can only do single color prints currently unless I do a manual filament swap
5. My stuff usually comes out damn near on point for what the dimensions should be
 
Java230 said:
Printed a box for the spare parts. I can't belive the hinge just prints?! It's pretty amazing.
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There’s whole working engines, transmissions, bang bang things, ect that are print in place, it’s pretty impressive.
 
Pocahontas said:
There’s whole working engines, transmissions, bang bang things, ect that are print in place, it’s pretty impressive.
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Yeah I am seriously impressed with this printer (coming from an ender 3). The hinge kinda blew my mind.
 
Ghetto Fab. said:
What cad program are you using?
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Catia. I use NX also. Probably should have used NX for this, for the simple fact that lettering/numbers/symbols/etc. are a pain in Catia. But it was what I had open at the time.
 
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Installed a few electronics upgrades this week and found that I neglected to seal off a hole in the base previously. Got an additional 5°C chamber temps with a piece of masking tape.
1000019320.jpg
 
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