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Sway Bar Tech

I think this might have been said on one of the earlier pages, but t's really hard to make those kind of direct calculations. One of the biggest factors is the CoG height vs the roll center of your rig. The longer that lever arm is, the more body roll a chassis has. So you can have two rigs with the same sprung weight, same unsprung weight, same coilovers and spring rates, same sway bars, and have them respond very differently because the roll centers and roll axes are different.
Good explanation of the concept of suspension geometry 👌
 
I think this might have been said on one of the earlier pages, but t's really hard to make those kind of direct calculations. One of the biggest factors is the CoG height vs the roll center of your rig. The longer that lever arm is, the more body roll a chassis has. So you can have two rigs with the same sprung weight, same unsprung weight, same coilovers and spring rates, same sway bars, and have them respond very differently because the roll centers and roll axes are different.
Eh. Finding anti-roll bar rates for a given roll angle/g and arm placement is really easy. The hard part is the 3d suspension model needed for it. I don't know of any free/cheap softwares publicly available that do the 3d model, yet.
 
Eh. Finding anti-roll bar rates for a given roll angle/g and arm placement is really easy. The hard part is the 3d suspension model needed for it. I don't know of any free/cheap softwares publicly available that do the 3d model, yet.

I have/had the full version of Performance Trends Suspension Analyzer that would spit out those numbers. Unfortunately, the laptop I had everything on shit the bed and I haven't touched it since, out of fear of loosing the suspension files I have on it. A few of those files are very important and I really can't lose them. Every few months I think about getting the info off the hard drive....then I forget about it.

I think that program was $500 when I bought it ~2005


EDIT:

I started a new thread in chitchat about recovering the information from that laptop. If anyone can help, please check it out.:beer:
 
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I just saw this on IG, never seen this setup before and wonder how effective it is.

Screenshot_20231215-121909~2.png


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Old school gieser setup. It's simple and it works. Packaging is very compact. Down side is extra unsprung weight.
 
What would the effective length of the arm be in this scenario if there were a swaybar splined into the center pivot?

Swaybar.jpg
 
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What would the effective length of the arm be in this scenario if there were a swaybar splined into the center pivot?

Swaybar.jpg

Need the total length of the trailing arms also, so you can see what motion ratio is being applied to the sway bar link. Then the effectiveness of the sway bar is being reduced by whatever that motion ratio is. So if that mounting point ends up giving like a 1.2:1 motion ratio, the effective stiffness of the sway bar is reduced by that 20%. Or something along those lines
 
40" from axle centerline
9" in red + 31"

Ideally you want those measurements from the center of the control arm joint pivot instead of the centerline of the axle. So maybe the eye to eye length of the trailing arm is 36-37"? Then the sway bar mount is roughly 6" in front of the axle side pivot point? (ballpark guess). That 1.2:1 motion ratio I threw out may not be too far off
 
Any recommendations for custom order sway bars? It seemed that Speedway Engineering was the go-to shop but they just went out of business.
 
Branik is good but pricey from what I understand.

TK1 may make you whatever you want.

I used Kami Racing bars also known as Schroder. They do circle track stuff. I saw old pirate posts about the 48 spline stuff stripping out but I think that was with aluminum arms
 
I like the builder arms, exactly what I’m looking for. A little pricey but I know Branik makes solid stuff.

Branik is good but pricey from what I understand.

TK1 may make you whatever you want.

I used Kami Racing bars also known as Schroder. They do circle track stuff. I saw old pirate posts about the 48 spline stuff stripping out but I think that was with aluminum arms

TK1 may be an option, I need to build my own arms so that may be a little difficult with them. I’ll look more into Kami/Schroeder.
 
Branik will make what you want and stand behind it.

If you need some shorty arms I have a set of 10" Branik billet arms laying around.
 
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