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Sway Bar Tech

Trying to figure out what bar length, arm length and mounting scheme to get a sway bar to play well with the rest. The outside frame track bar mount really fucks this up. Bar would have to be around 5-6" longer to mount it centered, and pivot/load point is out from frame. Then tire clearance is an issue, axle mounts to close laterally to bar.
I think redesign of track bar bracket is the only decent solution. Below frame and not outward. Reservoirs have to move also.
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Frame is 34 wide, TK1's 40.5" bar with ends is 37.5 inside. Resulting gap is 1.75" per side
Next down is 39, 1" gap to frame. too tight?

TK1's 1.25" bar tapers to 1", so with 13-16" arm length the rate is around 150-225 lb/in.
is there room to run the swaybar behind the axle?
 
I am sure that it would mean a custom bar, but has anyone ever put the arms inside the frame rails, with the bar supported on the outside?
 
is there room to run the swaybar behind the axle?
Not that I see. Driveshaft would make it difficult to mount bar
or, what about putting the bar on the axle with the arm facing the rear?
This axle came with one like that but was bent around the diff. It wouldn't work with the brackets I used, too wide so scrapped it.
Everything is tight on top of the diff, so mounting bar on HP axle would be a challenge. Easier to just burn a new track bracket on plasma table.
You can even tie the arms to the link bars.
Interesting, like a fox body mustang. Same challenge with bar on axle.
 
Finished my sway bar install. I went with a TK1 Ultra4 1.25" medium heat treat bar (39"). Front travel is 10". Used 16" arms and 12.5" links. Effective diameter is 1.0625, yielding spring rate in 150-200 lb/in at 14 -16 inch arm. resulting force is 1500-2000 lbs at 10" difference. Front of truck is about 3200#

Had to make a new track bar bracket, bar and move reservoirs. Limit straps should move also. Shoulda deigned in sway bar first, but my ignorance said radius arms would provide some roll resistance. They flex great and ate bushings. Severe lean in cornering at any speed. lots of torque roll.

Road manner are as expected, much better for my tall BGT. Can jerk wheel hard at speed and it stays stable. Worth the $600 and time to install and move all the other shit.

At ride height.
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Full droop
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at about 8" of flex. should allow the full 10" (4 up 6 down) without issue.
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are you talking about this part?
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yes ... as it wears it will split and slide over the crossover and get stuck and well then bad things happen. big problem for the east coast guys who deal with mud and such since they wear sliders out at a decent rate. west cost not as big a problem, but it is still something to be mindful of.

the other benefit is that it protects the shock body on full droop from the springs. people run them long side up when they dont selected springs properly. min 2" longer spring on the lower than shock travel always.
 
your spring sliders are on upside down ... yes i know thats they arrived, but theyre wrong. long side goes down.
yes ... as it wears it will split and slide over the crossover and get stuck and well then bad things happen. big problem for the east coast guys who deal with mud and such since they wear sliders out at a decent rate. west cost not as big a problem, but it is still something to be mindful of.

the other benefit is that it protects the shock body on full droop from the springs. people run them long side up when they dont selected springs properly. min 2" longer spring on the lower than shock travel always.
I had Radflo make me custom ones for all the reasons you mentioned. My shock bodies were taking a beating before.
 
I had Radflo make me custom ones for all the reasons you mentioned. My shock bodies were taking a beating before.
next time just run the fox ones or if you want to be fancy AGM AL ones with the inserts
 
next time just run the fox ones or if you want to be fancy AGM AL ones with the inserts

Well, my C/Os are Foxes, but the sliders they came with (old version) were too short for the way my 16" C/Os ended up sitting in the rear.....so Dan? over at Radflo (on the old board) hooked me up with some custom length ones. That said, my rear suspension was far from optimal....so that probably explains why I needed the band-aid in the first place.
 
In for some more tech: I understand arm length, diameter of the bar, and length of the bar change rate.

I see some use bigger bars but gun drill them vs a smaller solid bar thats turned down in the middle. Why? It softens rate I assume but maintains twisting yield strength from a bigger OD?

Is there a difference in rate or strength from a 1in bar at the splines but .75 at middle vs 1.25in at the splines but .75 in the middle.

Should a front bar always be thicker than a rear bar? OEMs usually use thicker front than rear but I’ve seen some U4/buggy’s do the opposite.

How much does material change rate? Oem cast bars vs bars from Currie or TK1. I noticed TK1 mentions heat treating changes rate too. How does that work?

I guess that’s all my questions for now :flipoff2:
 
From my understanding, anyone please pick apart anything you feel is incorrect - When you have the middle section turned down beyond the minimum diameter of the splines, that becomes the "working length" of the bar, and the full diameter outer areas will have minimal effect on observed rate. So in your two examples, as long as the .75" diameter sections are the same length on both bars, I would expect the rates to be essentially the same.

From what I remember about previous gun drilling conversations, as a solid bar twists the material near the outside tries to shrink in diameter, but the material near the center doesn't allow it so it has more internal stresses. By boring the center out, you're giving the material somewhere to go as it gets stressed. That makes me believe a gun drilled bar can twist more degrees than a solid bar before plastic deformation, but I could be wrong there.

Single bar in front vs back has to do with F/R chassis weight balance and driving style. Trophy trucks like to run 55% or more rear weight from what I've gathered, and they seem to install a rear bar before all else. Front biased U4s might prefer a front far first for the same rationale. But as a basic blanket statement regarding driving preference, I believe having just a rear bar leads to a looser oversteering feel, where a front bar makes a tighter understeering config.

Interested to hear more on material differences as well
 
In for some more tech: I understand arm length, diameter of the bar, and length of the bar change rate.

I see some use bigger bars but gun drill them vs a smaller solid bar thats turned down in the middle. Why? It softens rate I assume but maintains twisting yield strength from a bigger OD?

Is there a difference in rate or strength from a 1in bar at the splines but .75 at middle vs 1.25in at the splines but .75 in the middle.

Should a front bar always be thicker than a rear bar? OEMs usually use thicker front than rear but I’ve seen some U4/buggy’s do the opposite.

How much does material change rate? Oem cast bars vs bars from Currie or TK1. I noticed TK1 mentions heat treating changes rate too. How does that work?

I guess that’s all my questions for now :flipoff2:
Disclaimer: I am not a material scientist. I am just throwing out the circular bar equations from my Mechanics of Materials textbook, which to be fair I've used at work before and no one yelled at me :grinpimp: I don't design sway bars, but a shaft is a shaft. All of this applies to axle shafts also (Spidertrax even mentions this in some of their promo videos in a sentence explaining why they gun drill their shafts).

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I would ASSume that gun drilled vs turned down in the middle mainly comes down to manufacturing capability. Gun drilling is usually superior because it removes the least efficient section---the center. Stress (ie torque generated) is proportionate to the distance from the center. This means the center (neutral axis) does nothing and has zero stress, where as the outside sees max stress and does the most work. If you remove the center of a bar you remove a lot of material that isn't doing much. I don't see a scenario where turning down the middle is better, which is why I suspect it's a manufacturing thing--it's easier to turn down a bar than it is to gun drill it, so you can easily dial in your spring rate even if it's not the most mass efficient.

To throw up some numbers to prove that, here are two bars putting out the same torque:

1701833228132.png



The left bar is solid with an OD of 0.88in, and an area of 0.6in^2 (effectively the mass for all purposes). The bar on the right has an OD of 1" but a 0.8" diameter gun drill, so only 0.12" larger OD but a massive hole in the middle and an area of 0.28in^2 so weighs less than HALF the bar on the left---but both of them have the same spring rate, the angle of twist is ~12deg @ 1000ft-lbf. You can think of the left bar as "necked down" and the right bar as being gun drilled. Same stiffness, but the gun drill weighs half as much because that whole center section of the bar that doesn't do much is removed.

The one thing that should be noted though, is the max shear stress is higher with the gun drilled bar. Why? Because it's outer diameter is larger, and both bars are deflecting the same amount, and as stated above stress is proportionate to diameter so a larger diameter bar at the same deflection will experience more stress. So the gun drilled bar weighs less, has the same stiffness, but it's max angle capability is lower.

Here's another picture to compare another setup:

1701834035275.png


The left bar is unchanged, 0.88" OD. The right bar is NOT gun drilled and has a 1.0" OD. Two solid bars side by side. Only 0.12" between them in diameter. Going down the equations, you can see Moment of Inertia is way different, nearly double just increasing the diameter by ~14%! Max shear stress has decreased also, even though the outer diameter has increased and we know stress increases with diameter---however as you go down, angle of twist has DECREASED with the larger diameter. Same torque, the larger bar deflects less (intuitively makes sense) and less deflection usually means less stress. Now if we set the deflections to be the same, both bars twist 12deg---then the right bar has a higher max stress because the deflection is the same but the larger outer diameter is moving more due to it's distance from the bars centerline (shown below):

1701834287567.png


But note in this photo, angle of twist is the same at ~12deg, but to get to that 12deg we had to increase the torque on the right bar. The right bar is stiffer. Stiffer bar = more torque to twist = more stress to twist further.

I could show more screenshots to show differences how you change sizes, but all the equations are there if you want to punch the numbers. The main takeaways are this: the center of the material has low stress so isn't doing much. The outer diameter has the most stress. A larger outer diameter at the same deflection will have MORE stress. A larger outer diameter has a huge effect, as you can see Moment of Inertia is a 4th power equation so a small change makes a big difference----this doesn't just apply to sway bars either! Links, brackets, if you make something thicker it makes a drastic difference in performance even though the geometry might not change much (albeit heavily dependent on loadings and setup, so don't apply that idea to everything).



How much does material change rate? Well in the above equations there are two material values: shear modulus and max stress. Max stress is how much does the material need to be able to handle and cycle and be fine. Usually this is lower than yield by a factor of safety. Max stress allowables are determined by the material, such as chromoly or DOM being able to handle more stress before yielding than A36 steel. Shear modulus though is harder to change. Chromoly and A36 steel both have the same shear modulus, and the same modulus of elasticity. Similarly 6061 aluminum and 7075 aluminum have the same modulus, even though 7075 can handle way higher stresses without issue. This is a key discrimination: there is STRENGTH and there is STIFFNESS. In the above example, you could pick any steel and the angle of twist would be the same. But if you used A36 steel you would yield it quickly, you couldn't deflect it very far and because of that wouldn't withstand a lot of torque. Or you could use chromoly and it could twist further and handle more torque. But regardless if it was A36 or chromoly, they would behave the same until you hit the yield stress of one of them since their stiffness is the same.

Stiffness is how much force you get for an amount of deflection, and doesn't strictly have to do with stress (as you can see in the above equations, Angle of Twist has nothing to do with stress). Yield is how much raw force can you ultimately handle.

Tk1 mentions their heat treat changes rate. I'm not a material scientist, but I'm slightly skeptical of that claim. The heat treat might change what the maximum stress (and thus the max angle of twist) is, but modulus doesn't usually change for materials in my experience. With that said, I may be wrong, TK1 is pretty guarded with what he does since I've asked about what material he uses before so I could calculate what an allowable angle of twist was and he wouldn't give me any information to do my own analysis.
 
I learned about sway bars years ago helping a circle track team work on and prep their sprint car. We had different bars depending on the track, some were solid, some were gun drilled and all had slight differences in diameters.

In general, the gun drilled bars "reacted" faster than a solid bar. We used the gun-drilled bars when we needed a sharper bite coming out of the corner and the solid bars when we wanted a softer bite coming out of the corner.

From my understanding, anyone please pick apart anything you feel is incorrect - When you have the middle section turned down beyond the minimum diameter of the splines, that becomes the "working length" of the bar, and the full diameter outer areas will have minimal effect on observed rate. So in your two examples, as long as the .75" diameter sections are the same length on both bars, I would expect the rates to be essentially the same.

From what I remember about previous gun drilling conversations, as a solid bar twists the material near the outside tries to shrink in diameter, but the material near the center doesn't allow it so it has more internal stresses. By boring the center out, you're giving the material somewhere to go as it gets stressed. That makes me believe a gun drilled bar can twist more degrees than a solid bar before plastic deformation, but I could be wrong there.

Single bar in front vs back has to do with F/R chassis weight balance and driving style. Trophy trucks like to run 55% or more rear weight from what I've gathered, and they seem to install a rear bar before all else. Front biased U4s might prefer a front far first for the same rationale. But as a basic blanket statement regarding driving preference, I believe having just a rear bar leads to a looser oversteering feel, where a front bar makes a tighter understeering config.

Interested to hear more on material differences as well

That's it in a nutshell AP.

For an absolute over-simplification and totally ridiculous explanation, remember back as a kid playing with licorice, grab red rope licorice (solid kind) and start twisting, because it is solid, the center starts bunching up and expands, splitting and fracturing outwards. Then grab a red vine (hollow kind) and start twisting. Because it is hollow, as you twist, there is room for the wall material to go and it start collapsing inward and gets smaller in diameter. Again an absolutely ridiculous way to explain it, but it works. (BTW-Black licorice way better than red).



Great write-up snivilous. I'm cutting and choosing for efficiency, no offense meant if I left out an important bit.

circular bar equations from my Mechanics of Materials textbook

That's it, it is simple circular bar equations.

but a shaft is a shaft.
All of this applies to axle shafts also

SPOT ON.
Sway bar, axle shaft, suspension torsion bar, they are all the same. Nothing more than a circular bar of the proper diameter to resist the right amount of twisting motion.


Gun drilling is usually superior because it removes the least efficient section---the center. Stress (ie torque generated) is proportionate to the distance from the center. This means the center (neutral axis) does nothing and has zero stress, where as the outside sees max stress and does the most work. If you remove the center of a bar you remove a lot of material that isn't doing much.

This right here ^

All shafts have a certain amount of dead material in the center, remove it to lighten it up

I don't see a scenario where turning down the middle is better, which is why I suspect it's a manufacturing thing--it's easier to turn down a bar than it is to gun drill it, so you can easily dial in your spring rate even if it's not the most mass efficient.

The only reason to turn down the center is to make the main body do all the work AND to keep the twisting stresses from creating cracks at the spines.


A larger outer diameter has a huge effect, as you can see Moment of Inertia is a 4th power equation so a small change makes a big difference.

Yep, it's all about the girth and small changes make huge improvements. That's why you'll see big strength upgrades going from a 1.30" 30 spline to 1.50" 35 spline to 1.75" 40 spline axle shaft.

snivilous, you used different bar diameters in your write-ups. Run the equation using the same bar OD for both the right shaft and left shaft, but one drilled and one not. Then one that both are same OD, but have different drilled diameters.
 
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Thank you guys! This is awesome tech, so I would be curious for rock crawling if you want a "snappier" bar thats gun drilled or just a solid one. I guess it depends.
 
Can someone help me understand how you decide on the sway bar rate you need for what to want it to accomplish.

Say I want to remove X amount of lateral roll degrees that results in the outboard coilover compressing 4" from ride height. If the spring rate during those 4" of compression is 100lbs/in, would it be correct to assume I'd want a sway bar with a 100lbs/in rate? That's assuming that bar size/width/arm length worked out to a rate of 100lbs/in.

In that example, I think I would have only remove half of the roll compression of the shock. If the lateral load transfer was a total of 400 lbs, I would have hit that point with 2" of combined spring rate from the coilover and sway bar,

Is my thinking correct here, or am I missing something?

I may have mentioned this before, but I want two sets of sway bars. One for the street and one for offroad.

The street set I want to eliminate all but an inch or two of body roll. Not a easy task with mushy offroad spring rates in the coilovers which generally make for exciting times on the street. The good part is that you really don't need all the available wheel travel, That will be a high rate bar. Will sill be mushy in a straight line, but I have bypass's I can crank down.

Offroad set, I'd just like to hit the point of limiting movement at full articulation. My bump stops will only be compressed about one inch at full articulation, so not a lot of help. I'd like the sway bar to be at the point where axle movement has all be stopped when the shocks bottom out.
 
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The street set I want to eliminate all but an inch or two of body roll. Not a easy task with mushy offroad spring rates in the coilovers which generally make for exciting times on the street. The good part is that you really don't need all the available wheel travel, That will be a high rate bar. Will sill mushy in a straight line, but I have bypass's I can crank down.
Don’t go crazy.
A stupid high rate bar will make the handling not great at all.
 
Using this calculator


My front sway bar rate is 52. It’s a Currie anti rock.

Luckily I still have my stock rear sway bar and I did the calculations and it’s 178. Since it’s factory it’s cast (I think) so I’m not sure how material plays a role in it. Hopefully that gives you a general idea
 
And someone help me understand how you decide on the sway bar rate you need for what to want it to accomplish.

Say I want to remove X amount of lateral roll degrees that results in the outboard coilover compressing 4" from ride height. If the spring rate during those 4" of compression is 100lbs/in, would it be correct to assume I'd want a sway bar with a 100lbs/in rate? That's assuming that bar size/width/arm length worked out to a rate of 100lbs/in.

In that example, I think I would have only remove half of the roll compression of the shock. If the lateral load transfer was a total of 400 lbs, I would have hit that point with 2" of combined spring rate from the coilover and sway bar,

Is my thinking correct here, or am I missing something?

I may have mentioned this before, but I want two sets of sway bars. One for the street and one for offroad.

The street set I want to eliminate all but an inch or two of body roll. Not a easy task with mushy offroad spring rates in the coilovers which generally make for exciting times on the street. The good part is that you really don't need all the available wheel travel, That will be a high rate bar. Will sill mushy in a straight line, but I have bypass's I can crank down.

Offroad set, I'd just like to hit the point of limiting movement at full articulation. My bump stops will only be compressed about one inch at full articulation, so not a lot of help. I'd like the sway bar to be at the point where axle movement has all be stopped when the shocks bottom out.
You could just adjust the position of the axle link for street vs trail, instead of swapping a bar. Or run F&R rear bars and disconnect one of them for the trail.
If my thinking is correct, moving the link inward on the sway-bar arm should stiffen it up for the same rate.
 
Don’t go crazy.
A stupid high rate bar will make the handling not great at all.

Agreed. I certainly don't want to be driving the "over steer special". But I don't want to look like a trophy truck going around a corner on the street either. I want to be somewhere in the middle of those two.

Multiple holes on the arms would be best case. I can't even remember the last time I had best case fall into my lap though.:flipoff2:

I honestly don't think there would be a huge difference in rates between the two sets of bars.
 
For what it’s worth, on the calculator. 1in in moved me from 52 to 62 and 2in in moved me to 74 so 20% and 45% increase in rate. Probably set it up to be straight up and down for the end links in off-road settings and if it’s angled in a little for the street setting it doesn’t matter as much since you won’t be hitting full droop
 
Can someone help me understand how you decide on the sway bar rate you need for what to want it to accomplish.

Say I want to remove X amount of lateral roll degrees that results in the outboard coilover compressing 4" from ride height. If the spring rate during those 4" of compression is 100lbs/in, would it be correct to assume I'd want a sway bar with a 100lbs/in rate? That's assuming that bar size/width/arm length worked out to a rate of 100lbs/in.

In that example, I think I would have only remove half of the roll compression of the shock. If the lateral load transfer was a total of 400 lbs, I would have hit that point with 2" of combined spring rate from the coilover and sway bar,

Is my thinking correct here, or am I missing something?

I may have mentioned this before, but I want two sets of sway bars. One for the street and one for offroad.

The street set I want to eliminate all but an inch or two of body roll. Not a easy task with mushy offroad spring rates in the coilovers which generally make for exciting times on the street. The good part is that you really don't need all the available wheel travel, That will be a high rate bar. Will sill be mushy in a straight line, but I have bypass's I can crank down.

Offroad set, I'd just like to hit the point of limiting movement at full articulation. My bump stops will only be compressed about one inch at full articulation, so not a lot of help. I'd like the sway bar to be at the point where axle movement has all be stopped when the shocks bottom out.

I think this might have been said on one of the earlier pages, but t's really hard to make those kind of direct calculations. One of the biggest factors is the CoG height vs the roll center of your rig. The longer that lever arm is, the more body roll a chassis has. So you can have two rigs with the same sprung weight, same unsprung weight, same coilovers and spring rates, same sway bars, and have them respond very differently because the roll centers and roll axes are different.
 
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