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Sooo.. I bought a NEW trailer today ... add ons?

71PA_Highboy said:
Rockyota wins.

Ramps are 4 foot long and end to end fit under the deck.

Stupid and I want to change it.

Will get to it eventually.

Finished the rub rails today,,, mostly, Some cleanup when I can get to it and then paint... Tractor supply gloss black implement paint.

Deck is not PT. Any recommendations on sealer other than used motor oil?
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Mine is like that, other than having to carry the ramps to the rear what's the complaint?
There's not much to do better on a dove tail with out heavily modifing the rear cross member and seriously needing to beef it up.
 
71PA_Highboy said:
Deck is not PT. Any recommendations on sealer other than used motor oil?
Click to expand...

I just redid my trailer deck, used 50/50 diesel and hydraulic fluid (universal tractor junk we were getting rid of at work).

Turned out well, sprayed it down with half the sprayer. Let it sun and soak in for a few days, then a second coat. Just shy of 2 gallons of fuel/oil mix applied. I keep extra in a pop bottle to touch up when the deck gets gouged dragging stuff on and off.

Now that it's dried, it doesn't come on my hands or clothes, but dust from dirt roads did stick all over the trailer on the first couple trips. Should fix itself with a rain storm or two.


Coat 1:
1000005124.jpg

Coat 2: Classy red undertone from the cherry fuel.
1000005145.jpg
 
That actually looks pretty good, and I have basically an unlimited supply of used hyd oil at work. Maybe I have to grab a couple gallons of red diesel and try that with mine.
 
CarterKraft said:
Mine is like that, other than having to carry the ramps to the rear what's the complaint?
There's not much to do better on a dove tail with out heavily modifing the rear cross member and seriously needing to beef it up.
Click to expand...

My PJ had them side by side sliding in between rear spring hanger and beaver tail
 
CarterKraft said:
The move I want to do is to use one upfitter to disable the truck backup lights when another up filter is on, this would be awesome when you are towing, prevent the glare from the towed vehicle
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I've got my truck extra lights (4" LED cubes) mounted down and at a angle on the factory bumper as opposed to straight back and wired to an upfitter swithch. So I have no glare from anything on any of the trailers, and the ability to turn on/off the extra lights as needed. Would like to be able to do the same with the trailer lights, if I ever decide to mess with them again.
 
ridered3 said:
I've got my truck extra lights (4" LED cubes) mounted down and at a angle on the factory bumper as opposed to straight back and wired to an upfitter swithch. So I have no glare from anything on any of the trailers, and the ability to turn on/off the extra lights as needed. Would like to be able to do the same with the trailer lights, if I ever decide to mess with them again.
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I'm talking about the trucks lights glaring on the front of a 5er for example, box trailer etc.
 
CarterKraft said:
I'm talking about the trucks lights glaring on the front of a 5er for example, box trailer etc.
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Ah gotcha. I don't have that issue with our all white enclosed gooseneck, but did have that problem with our old red enclosed that had a diamond plate front cover piece. Nothing a few cans of spray paint didn't fix for me though.
 
71PA_Highboy said:
Lowrollin70gmc

Looks good

How long does that treatment last? Have you done it before?
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I haven't done it before. Didn't want pressure treated, and did make sure to leave about an eighth gap for water and gunk to flow between.

I had looked into wood sealers, but other than linseed oil most seem to suck on a trailer. I didn't want to pay for a couple gallons of linseed oil and knew plenty that swear by used motor oil. I just couldn't convince myself to spray black oil on everything. I mixed diesel with the oil to help it soak in the wood.

My plan is spray a new coat yearlyish late summer/early fall to maximize snow resistance. Easy to do with a weed sprayer, and I think the key to less residue is to let it sit in the sun for a few warm days to soak in. Gravel dust stuck to it the first trip (two days after second coat). Mainly where the oil ran down on the frame. Should rinse off with some rain, or I'll hose it off eventually.
 
Gumbybronco said:
Tongue box, HF rubber chalks, spare tire with under deck winch up mount, good straps and extra straps, gloves.
I also put removable jack mounts on the rear so I could park a loaded trailer and I have a synthetic line on my winch, so I have extra protective sheathing for it. Back up light.
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On the way to getting this all done... and more.

I noticed there are no tie downs on the front or rear of the trailer so I decided to put in some 4-gage stake pockets on the front under the rail because - GASP - Arse is right. Someone will try to tie down to the stop bar and with nothing else to secure things to I can understand.

So on the ass end I was looking at Hooks, but trying to decide between Slip hooks and clevis hooks. I realize they could probably hook to the ramp pivot bar, but then it will get stretched out of shape and piss me off as well. I am going to go with Bolt-on (and extra reinforcement) because I don't think I can preheat enough for the little Hobart 135 to get enough penetration to actually stick... ;)

arse_sidewards said:
OP should figure out a way to keep the goddamn ramps from rattling. :laughing:
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I did.... and it allows them to lock as well... But that comes second to relocating them... The question is going to be how well it works once the ramps are bent to shit from doing stupid stuff.

welndmn said:
Shocks were always on my list as well, but I was hoping to find some decent take off shocks off something and put them on, then I forgot about it....
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Odd question, are they needed on all four corners (2 axles)?

ridered3 said:
Only thing I'd like to change is to wire the trailer backup lights to the extra truck backup lights that are wired to an Upfitter switch. This way I can easily have extra backup lights when in reverse or extra loading lights like on the truck.
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I fab'd up some custom brackets that will hold the same button style marker lights that are on there now as well as button backup lights that will not shine forward. I will have 3 on each side and then looking to put 8" strips at the rear. I will test the buttons before I add the ones on the beaver tail. This should give me enough 'surround' light, we will see what reality surprises me with... ;)

Just another day in NC....
 
71PA_Highboy said:
So on the ass end I was looking at Hooks, but trying to decide between Slip hooks and clevis hooks. I realize they could probably hook to the ramp pivot bar, but then it will get stretched out of shape and piss me off as well.
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If your ramp rod just so happens to be 1" I posted a bracket that holds a 1" rod and welds above a 3/8 grab hook.

irate4x4.com

Tuesday trailer question

That looks miserable to bleed. Should work great. Bleed the bottoms like normal, crack the top caliper at the hose fitting and you're good to go. I'm more worried about needing to make an extra long banjo bolt for the top because the "double" bolt I bought probably isn't gonna be tall enough...
irate4x4.com irate4x4.com
 
71PA_Highboy said:
I fab'd up some custom brackets that will hold the same button style marker lights that are on there now as well as button backup lights that will not shine forward. I will have 3 on each side and then looking to put 8" strips at the rear. I will test the buttons before I add the ones on the beaver tail. This should give me enough 'surround' light, we will see what reality surprises me with... ;)

Just another day in NC....
Click to expand...
Sounds good on the button backup lights and curious to see how that works out for you.
 
arse_sidewards said:
If your ramp rod just so happens to be 1" I posted a bracket that holds a 1" rod and welds above a 3/8 grab hook.

irate4x4.com

Tuesday trailer question

That looks miserable to bleed. Should work great. Bleed the bottoms like normal, crack the top caliper at the hose fitting and you're good to go. I'm more worried about needing to make an extra long banjo bolt for the top because the "double" bolt I bought probably isn't gonna be tall enough...
irate4x4.com irate4x4.com
Click to expand...

I will think on it... at first my head says no... but then I think some more and maybe...
 
71PA_Highboy said:
I will think on it... at first my head says no... but then I think some more and maybe...
Click to expand...
I forgot to mention, I cut the top ~180deg off those brackets and had to do some selective grinding of the hard corner to get them to clear the commodity aluminum ramps with the ~1" hook that everyone sells. I made the bracket a full circle because it was cheaper to buy many of one part and cut them than to buy two distinct parts.
 
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