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Sooo.. I bought a NEW trailer today ... add ons?

71PA_Highboy said:
So I have only seen these OEM. Does someone make an off the shelf version for shit like this
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Your Amazon one should work fine

I kind of like using junkyard stuff, because I wound up running a $2 swap meet proto 3/8" ujoint and some Jack rods welded to a lugnut so that I didn't need to carry anything but a 4 way wrench.

Then some goober with a forklift knocked it off and I haven't gotten around to fixing it, just use pliers for now
 
71PA_Highboy said:
So I have only seen these OEM. Does someone make an off the shelf version for shit like this?
Click to expand...

Projectjunkie said:
Your Amazon one should work fine

I kind of like using junkyard stuff, because I wound up running a $2 swap meet proto 3/8" ujoint and some Jack rods welded to a lugnut so that I didn't need to carry anything but a 4 way wrench.

Then some goober with a forklift knocked it off and I haven't gotten around to fixing it, just use pliers for now
Click to expand...
On the last trailer, I ran a solid rod, welded a lug nut to the end, bushing thru the frame rail, the cross drilled and pinned into the winch drives. Did both sides so dual spares on a 16’er.

Current trailer fits a ton of stuff plus a spare inside the toolbox. Can strap a second spare on when less local.
 
71PA_Highboy said:
It has stake pockets down the sides... should I put a rub rail down the length and if so, is 3/16" sufficient?
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5/16 or 1/4 so that a 3/8 grab hook fits on it with a good amount of slop. x2 on 1/8 being useless.

3/8 hook on 3/8 stock is kinda tight and lends itself to binding rather than sliding, side loading shit, and is just generally crappier.
 
arse_sidewards said:
5/16 or 1/4 so that a 3/8 grab hook fits on it with a good amount of slop. x2 on 1/8 being useless.

3/8 hook on 3/8 stock is kinda tight and lends itself to binding rather than sliding, side loading shit, and is just generally crappier.
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Maybe I misunderstood the purpose, I thought it was to be used as a tie down as needed.
 
CarterKraft said:
Maybe I misunderstood the purpose, I thought it was to be used as a tie down as needed.
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That's what I thought too. Drop a grab hook onto that shit. Once you have rails and shit that don't rattle you'll wonder why you put up with a trailer that had rattling D rings and shit for so long.

OP should figure out a way to keep the goddamn ramps from rattling. :laughing:
 
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CarterKraft said:
Maybe I misunderstood the purpose, I thought it was to be used as a tie down as needed.
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I wouldn't tie down to 1/8" unless it was 1/4 rope or bungee cords, but it'd be lighter and easier if you just want a rub rail to slide the side around things without getting hung up in whatever.

I dunno. Guess it depends on use
 
What's the spread between pockets? 1/8" is not good for any real strapping, and stake pockets tend to rip off without a good rub rail. Maybe they put it on there just to reinforce the stake pockets?

Where does the spare tire mount?
 
TSEJEEPERS said:
air pressure monitoring system. Most show the temp too.
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CarterKraft said:
These are a pretty good low budget alternative.

Tire Pressure Monitor Caps | Truck & Trailer Tire Pressure Monitoring Valves

Tire Pressure Gauge monitoring tire pressure of your truck, trailer, ambulance and other commercial vehicles. We provide “30 Day Money Back” and “100% Satisfaction” guarantee.
www.quickpressure.com www.quickpressure.com
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Do they work well if you’re using multiple trailers with multiple trucks?
 
If you had 17+ Fords with tow technology packages you could put factory TPMS modules on them.

After market sensors you would need a monitor for each truck, or swap between trucks and sensors on each tire. Could swap sensors to each trailer but that might get annoying.
 
When running backup lights on a trailer are you running a relay off the trailer battery or are you running straight off the vehicle wiring? I am running 16 GA back from the cab, but not sure how stout the NP435 B/U light switch is.

Is there a charging regulator between the hot wire and the battery on a trailer installed battery?

I am planning on adding a winch and smaller battery (24F - same as 4 of my vehicles and the generator) in a tongue box, so either is easy enough to do, just wondered what others are doing.

Thanks for any response.
 
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I’ve done both. I think my car trailer is currently reverse signal -> relay -> lights. But I also have a battery in toolbox
 
71PA_Highboy said:
When running backup lights on a trailer are you running a relay off the trailer battery or are you running straight off the vehicle wiring? I am running 16 GA back from the cab, but nut sure how stout the NP435 BU light switch is.

Is there a charging regulator between the hot wire and the battery on a trailer installed battery?

I am planning on adding a winch and smaller battery (24F same as 4 of my vehicles and the generator) in a tongue box, so either is easy enough to do, just wondered what others are doing.

Thanks for any response.
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My trailer backup lights (4" LED cubes) just run straight off the truck wiring (2012 F250) with no relay. Only have a small breakaway battery onboard for now, but no winch or bigger battery yet. After having them, I never want to have another trailer without backup lights as they are a game changer.

Only thing I'd like to change is to wire the trailer backup lights to the extra truck backup lights that are wired to an Upfitter switch. This way I can easily have extra backup lights when in reverse or extra loading lights like on the truck.
 
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My current trailer is straight to the truck, but it only has a small breakaway battery and isn't a forever trailer. With LED reverse lights, it's not a huge amperage draw on the truck wiring.

On my next trailer I'll run a relay, wired so the truck runs them in reverse and it won't backfeed the truck when manually switched (could diode it, but relay is also easy). I'll also have a second relay triggered by the same toggle switch for additional work lights that wouldn't be great when in reverse.

Normal 5 pin relay:

30: Trailer reverse lights
87: Trailer battery +
87a: Truck reverse (via 7 pin)
86: trailer battery +
85: toggle switch on trailer (switch to ground)
 
She's home....

20240914_135858.jpg
 
Working on the 1/4" x 2" rub rails.Not being a fabricator I admit to having made several mistakes, but not costly ones.

Thought I had some .035 wire... and I did, but flux core... :barf:

So since it was Saturday, HF here I come.... they only had the 11lb spool, so I have .035 for life.

I did, however, get reminded that welding is a perishable skill, but you can get better while you are doing it. Also, cleanliness is a virtue.

i started on the right side, so the welds on the left side should look MUCH better.

They will all hold, right? ... I mean boogers hold, right?

:lmao::lmao::lmao:
 
I've seen this on a couple of other trailers, and I always immediately think the ramp is falling out... is there a reason for this design?
 

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ridered3 said:
My trailer backup lights (4" LED cubes) just run straight off the truck wiring (2012 F250) with no relay. Only have a small breakaway battery onboard for now, but no winch or bigger battery yet. After having them, I never want to have another trailer without backup lights as they are a game changer.

Only thing I'd like to change is to wire the trailer backup lights to the extra truck backup lights that are wired to an Upfitter switch. This way I can easily have extra backup lights when in reverse or extra loading lights like on the truck.
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The move I want to do is to use one upfitter to disable the truck backup lights when another up filter is on, this would be awesome when you are towing, prevent the glare from the towed vehicle
 
Upon review (and less alcohol) Gbkeith wins.

Ramps are 4 foot long and end to end fit under the deck as shown.

Stupid and I want to change it.

Will get to it eventually.

Finished the rub rails today,,, mostly, Some cleanup when I can get to it and then paint... Tractor supply gloss black implement paint.

Deck is not PT. Any recommendations on sealer other than used motor oil?
 
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