TRINDU
PBB Orphan
I'll do an in depth review for the conversion when I'm done. Theres a few little things that tripped me up, but I did change a few things.
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Snowball
- Thread starter TRINDU
- Start date
I'll do an in depth review for the conversion when I'm done. Theres a few little things that tripped me up, but I did change a few things.
Grendel
Iron Sharpens Iron
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 297
- Messages
- 3,038
Lol, I don't need it... they did it more than 10 + years ago, on that other board.
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
Both spicer, same part #, should be identical in every way....
The new ones are physically shorter. Which according to my theory should work perfect for me. But still... wtf
The new ones are physically shorter. Which according to my theory should work perfect for me. But still... wtf
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TRINDU
PBB Orphan
She fixed. Now I need to put the GM rear wheel cylinders in. Then take it to get aligned.
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
new WMS ~ 72.75" with Ford outers
350TacoZilla
Well-known member
Congrats on getting it together even after few setbacks. Now that you have done it do you think the full C & knuckle swap is worth it over just the spindle swap style that retains the ram BJ's? I had made my newb thread so I didn't clog yours up with questions like this lol.
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
I plan do do an in depth write up in the dodge section shortly.
GM "1 Ton" rear wheel cylinders
Got passenger set up, getting excited to drive it. Went to do the driver and noticed the hub seal leaking
Guess I'll drop the cover, do both sides, and figure out what friction modifier a D70 wants along with 85w140 synthetic.
This bastard should make fuel, but its fighting me thr entire way.
GM "1 Ton" rear wheel cylinders
Got passenger set up, getting excited to drive it. Went to do the driver and noticed the hub seal leaking
Guess I'll drop the cover, do both sides, and figure out what friction modifier a D70 wants along with 85w140 synthetic.This bastard should make fuel, but its fighting me thr entire way.
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TRINDU
PBB Orphan
Figured out why its leaking. I've never seen a spindle do this. Guess I'll sand and see what happens
Figured out why its leaking. I've never seen a spindle do this. Guess I'll sand and see what happens
That's weird
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
Imagine the inner/bearing side of the wheel seal all nicked up. Not the rubber, but metal surface. That was the factory seal from '96. No idea how that could've happened.
I could see the outer from outside contamination, but the bearing side... Must've been a bad one from the factory floor. That's union labor for you
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
Well. Meh.
The steering is tight and very responsive. Braking chatter and soft pedal kicked my ass on the first test run. Bled it again and triple checked all the hardware. Much better pedal but the rear is locking up and very touchy. Still feel a chatter from the ass.
Truck has NO ABS from factory.
Going to get it aligned. Maybe put the smaller wheel cylinders back in to take away from rear brakes.
Ultimately keep an eye out for a late model disc D70.
Good news is it runs and shifts great.
The steering is tight and very responsive. Braking chatter and soft pedal kicked my ass on the first test run. Bled it again and triple checked all the hardware. Much better pedal but the rear is locking up and very touchy. Still feel a chatter from the ass.
Truck has NO ABS from factory.
Going to get it aligned. Maybe put the smaller wheel cylinders back in to take away from rear brakes.
Ultimately keep an eye out for a late model disc D70.
Good news is it runs and shifts great.
Or just use an adjustable prop valve on the rear brake line to calm them down some.
My '97 had one stock. I recall them being problematic (it's been a long time), I think I ended up just disconnecting it so the rear brakes got full pressure all the time.
Pete
TrailTamer
🤣🖕🏻
Put the OEM size wheel cylinder back in… seriously.
I did the same GM wheel cylinder mod and hated it. Problem went away when I put the smaller OE wheel cylinders back in. Rear end still lock up if I want it to even with heavy weight on rear axle while towing.
Don’t bother with D70. Go D80.
I did the same GM wheel cylinder mod and hated it. Problem went away when I put the smaller OE wheel cylinders back in. Rear end still lock up if I want it to even with heavy weight on rear axle while towing.
Don’t bother with D70. Go D80.
I did the GM wheel cylinders on my '97 way back in the day, it didn't make much of a difference. But what I learned was that they went to a larger bore cylinder from the factory at some point (perhaps '97?), and my original ones were almost as big as the GM ones. Not sure if it matters, but mine was a 2500 with the Dana 80.
Pete
Pete
Curbkrawler
Shitbox Connoisseur
I recently buffed the paint out on my Grand Wagoneer using a $100 buffer from Amazon, a larger Dewalt buffer, and 3M 3 step buffing compound with great results.The paint is still good minus the coon/cat the climbed up on the hood while it was in a barn. Suggestions on a good buffer and compound. I just rubbed some by hand and took 80% out pretty easy.
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After:
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
Never had a problem with a 70. Had an 80 eat a pinion bearing before.
$100 + $50 in fuel and I have my self a boat anchor. D70, 3.54, power lock. I'll spend a few hundred on the rebuild. Was in a truck that was stripped/vandalized sitting in a field in BFE. Very nice redneck couple who knew the code to the gate/lock... but wasnt their field or truck...
~71.5" WMS
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TrailTamer
🤣🖕🏻
My truck went through 2 D70 assemblies. Band aided the 2nd D70 (carrier bearings went bad) to get by as I built my D80.
D80 is like 14b. Install and forget it.
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
Looks like ~$600 for new everything to rebuild it. Seals, bearings, calipers, rotors, pads, lines, ebrake cables, backing plates. Hopefully recoupe some selling the one that's in it.
It accumulated a little rust from sitting in sandy loam, but nothing a wire wheel and paint wont fix. Has OEM rotors, fluid looks decent, so shouldn't have excessive miles on it.
A/C sorta worked when I got it. Apparently theres a leak and now the compressor just cycles. Just going to replace everything.
Rockauto is going to love this next $1000 order.
It accumulated a little rust from sitting in sandy loam, but nothing a wire wheel and paint wont fix. Has OEM rotors, fluid looks decent, so shouldn't have excessive miles on it.
A/C sorta worked when I got it. Apparently theres a leak and now the compressor just cycles. Just going to replace everything.
Rockauto is going to love this next $1000 order.
this
i need one for my tow rig, big ass dually drums on my 14b with all new parts lock up my rear tires too easy. adjust them out and a few weeks later theyre back where they were
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
Went back down the 15/16th cylinders as TrailTamer suggest. Braking is back to even, not trying to lock up the rears immediately. Still a slight shudder, but not near as bad as it was.
However... as the old man was helping me bleed it and get a second opinion, he noticed the pedal would fall and not stay firm. Thinking the master may be bad.
Holding off on the disc 70 for now. It needs everything brakes related, and I just dont feel like spending that money.
However... as the old man was helping me bleed it and get a second opinion, he noticed the pedal would fall and not stay firm. Thinking the master may be bad.
Holding off on the disc 70 for now. It needs everything brakes related, and I just dont feel like spending that money.
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
Got the new master on... 
No shudder and this pig will stop on a dime. Doesnt pull left to right. No ABS jerkoff. Just as god intended.
Now back to fixing the a/c and clean up the interior. Glad this isn't my main rig... yet
Have an appointment monday for 18% ceramic and 5% eyebrow.
No shudder and this pig will stop on a dime. Doesnt pull left to right. No ABS jerkoff. Just as god intended.
Now back to fixing the a/c and clean up the interior. Glad this isn't my main rig... yet
Have an appointment monday for 18% ceramic and 5% eyebrow.
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
Trying to dial in the a/c, and realized theres nothing I can do with this shit design. Theres a good inch of dead space between the radiator and intercooler. Then the condenser. It just doesnt get enough airflow sitting and the pressure peaks to ~70/400. Spritz the condensor with water and it drastically and immediately drops. An electric fan (or two) to cut on with the compressor is definitely a future project
350TacoZilla
Well-known member
I kinda wondered with some vehicles why they put time into making the fan shrouds taper nice and cover 100% of the radiator but no type of shroud or ducting to direct air through condenser and such. Like just a piece of plastic that bolts or clips in place that directs air through the whole stack. Guessing so you have room to clean between them but.... maybe make it removable?
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
While its fresh on mind. Just took it on a 450 mile round trip to the coast.
There's a vibe over 75mph, so I just kept it under 2k. Thinking u joint(s) or carrier bearing as the whole truck shakes. Tires are brand new Michelins at2 so ruling those out. Speedo was within <1mph.
a/c sucks at idle, rev it up to 1200 and it gets better. Froze my ass off in 90° going down the highway. Speaking of idle, it's around 550-600 if the tach is near right. Needs to bump up to ~800 where it smooths out.
Thetes an odd shuffle/wobble with no rhyme of reason. Big enough for me to notice, suttle enough not to worry (for now). It's like the truck untracks and gets loose. Doesnt feel like death wobble as the steering doesnt shake. Steering is actually solid.
First 200 miles was 17mpg, second 200 was 18.8mpg. Cant complain. Didnt see another 12V the entire run, which was cool.
There's a vibe over 75mph, so I just kept it under 2k. Thinking u joint(s) or carrier bearing as the whole truck shakes. Tires are brand new Michelins at2 so ruling those out. Speedo was within <1mph.
a/c sucks at idle, rev it up to 1200 and it gets better. Froze my ass off in 90° going down the highway. Speaking of idle, it's around 550-600 if the tach is near right. Needs to bump up to ~800 where it smooths out.
Thetes an odd shuffle/wobble with no rhyme of reason. Big enough for me to notice, suttle enough not to worry (for now). It's like the truck untracks and gets loose. Doesnt feel like death wobble as the steering doesnt shake. Steering is actually solid.
First 200 miles was 17mpg, second 200 was 18.8mpg. Cant complain. Didnt see another 12V the entire run, which was cool.
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
Grabbed some electric fans, but dont know the optimum way to mount. Figured have the cut on when the compressor is on, and highway speed will overrun the fan cfm.
Will the cheesey push through plastic mounts work well enough? Grille just barely clears the top one. Or I could mount both behind the bumper.
I have an infinite source of these, all they say is, made in usa. No idea on cfm.
Will the cheesey push through plastic mounts work well enough? Grille just barely clears the top one. Or I could mount both behind the bumper.
I have an infinite source of these, all they say is, made in usa. No idea on cfm.
![[486]](https://data.irate4x4.com/avatars/m/0/94.jpg?1700178133){kind=avatar}
[486]
smells things
yeah normal is to just wire them in with the compressor clutch
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
Think I'm just going to do a single fan, in the void in the middle of the bumper. Need to test it before going all out.
Otherwise...
Love this truck. Still have a laundry list of small things to fix, all age related. I drove to Houston and back and didn't see another 2nd gen Dodge. Turned down a legitimate offer for $20k.
Anyone who lives in rust free areas... I cant fathom spending the coin on a new truck. 100% happy with every penny spent.