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We run 255 Mastercraft CXT's and like them but looks like they are out of stock everywhere, not sure if thats just "out" or no longer available. Seems so stupid that a 255-80R17 is more than 285-70R17 in the same brand and model tire when your are getting less tire but I guess they don't sell as many so charge more per.
 
Working on an axle broke in half is a chore.
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The ford axle had moogs and looked recently rebuilt, but they were loose and falling apart once I got the knuckles off. Made an order with ECGS, hopefully get it back together this weekend. Spicer joints and looking forward to trying the umhv bearings and updated seals. Been 10 years since I've dealt with a 60 of this vintage.

What's the latest and greatest grease to repack the bearings?

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TRINDU said:
I'm all ears if you have a "you need to do this while you're in there" suggestion.

I cant find one upgrade for F350 brakes. Going to experiment with using 99-02 dodge brakes for slip on.
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AFC Live, delete fuel plate, advance timing, kdp, check & eliminate boost leaks.

Stock F350 brakes worked fine for me, but only if I don’t tow. Prone to warping. Rotors are thin, like 1.1”, vs stock dodge rotors at 1.5”.
 
TRINDU said:
Yep. Or the 08.5+ but the pitman needs to be tapered. Apparently a 01.5-02 pitman works with the 08.5

Bought a set of 3rd gen alloys today. If I stick with my original plan, 255/85R16 KM3 are $265ea... 255/80R17 are $320 :eek:

But damn they look so much better.

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I love my 3rd gen wheels. Fits perfectly with 315/70R17 and F350 outer swap. No rubbing anywhere.
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TrailTamer said:
I tried them. The plastic bushing wallowed out and that seal isn’t an upgrade.

Stay with the oe stub shaft needle bearing and use ford super duty’s d50/60 seal. 1,000s times better.
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Well, shit. Already knocked in the bushing so I'll run with it. May eyeball and advance the timing.

TrailTamer said:
AFC Live, delete fuel plate, advance timing, kdp, check & eliminate boost leaks.

Stock F350 brakes worked fine for me, but only if I don’t tow. Prone to warping. Rotors are thin, like 1.1”, vs stock dodge rotors at 1.5”.
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I ordered the chevy wheel cylinders for the rear. Wanted to swap disc but people are too retarded and want $1k+ for a rear. I'll run the drums for now.

Just did the KDP. Dont wont to turn it up yet with the stock 213k 47re.


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TrailTamer said:
I love my 3rd gen wheels. Fits perfectly with 315/70R17 and F350 outer swap. No rubbing anywhere.
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Awesome, I settled on 285s.
 
TRINDU said:
Well, shit. Already knocked in the bushing so I'll run with it. May eyeball and advance the timing.



I ordered the chevy wheel cylinders for the rear. Wanted to swap disc but people are too retarded and want $1k+ for a rear. I'll run the drums for now.

Just did the KDP. Dont wont to turn it up yet with the stock 213k 47re.

Awesome, I settled on 285s.
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I helped a good friend swap an ~02 disc brake rear in his 97. Said he noticed zero difference except that it looked goofy because the rear was wider than the front. :homer:

Disc's would be nice for serviceability, but at least the 2nd gen discs are not a performance upgrade.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I helped a good friend swap an ~02 disc brake rear in his 97. Said he noticed zero difference except that it looked goofy because the rear was wider than the front. :homer:

Disc's would be nice for serviceability, but at least the 2nd gen discs are not a performance upgrade.
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It would be about dead even since the ford outer swap adds ~1.5" overall.

Also, AAM 3rd gen brakes are a bolt on upgrade to late model 2nd gen axles. But then the rear would be worlds better than the front. Ford is an upgrade, but not by today's standards.
 
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TRINDU said:
It would be about dead even since the ford outer swap adds ~1.5" overall.

Also, AAM 3rd gen brakes are a bolt on upgrade to late model 2nd gen axles. But then the rear would be worlds better than the front. Ford is an upgrade, but not by today's standards.
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I have the axle in my truck that your outters are from, if it's an upgrade the stock stuff must suck :laughing:

Hydroboost helped with pedal feel, but I haven't gotten a chance to tow with it yet. Does this truck have hydroboost? My 95 dodge 2wd did not.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I have the axle in my truck that your outters are from, if it's an upgrade the stock stuff must suck :laughing:
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96 Dodge single pot vs 97 Ford twin

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Also, best modification to date and possibly ever. Door/key buzzer removed. Dont know how it made it this long.

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Well, went to bolt up the aluminum dodge 17s to the ford hubs... and the dodge centers are a CH too small to fit over the register on the hubs. Pulled them off to have the hubs machined.

So future reference. Dodge "3rd gen" wheels (so I'm guessing 2003 to 2018 all together) dont fit <1997 ford hubs.

Ford 4.88"
Dodge 4.75"
 
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Wheel centers are stupid easy to open up DIY style. Tons of people on youtube showing various methods. Most involve a router.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Wheel centers are stupid easy to open up DIY style. Tons of people on youtube showing various methods. Most involve a router.
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It was easier to tell a friend "turn this down to 4.75" ... and I dont own a router. Gave him the center caps to to cut a hole so i dont have to buy a 4" hole saw either.
 
I think you went right way on it man. Turning down hubs gives you ton of options on wheels where opening up wheels gives you 1 set of dodge wheels that now fit a ford. If you have the money then turning hubs is right call. I have a set of H2's someone hogged out to fit ford or dodge hub and set of jeep 6x5.5 aluminum slots that were opened up for toyota hub and I wish they weren't lol. I have also had wheels machined before so I'm not passed doing that but I want them done cleaner than router bit deal, though I'm thinking a flush cut bit and wheel spacer as a guide might be how I clean these up.
 
Sweet. Sucks that you had to wait but can't beat the price. Did you happen to get lucky and nab a set of the forged aluminum wheels or are they the normal cast with cladding? Look good either way
 
350TacoZilla said:
Sweet. Sucks that you had to wait but can't beat the price. Did you happen to get lucky and nab a set of the forged aluminum wheels or are they the normal cast with cladding? Look good either way
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Forged, by far my favorite factory wheel out of anything made the past 30 years. I hate the chrome clad, have a matte set on another truck and they're ok. The same guy will eventually cut the caps for me as well for the lockouts.

Need to sand and polish them.
 
They looked like the forged ones. They are nice, I had 1 that came with a truck as spare but couldn't find 3 more I could afford since most people sell 4 at a time so sold it to recoup some cash.
 
TRINDU said:
Forged, by far my favorite factory wheel out of anything made the past 30 years. I hate the chrome clad, have a matte set on another truck and they're ok. The same guy will eventually cut the caps for me as well for the lockouts.

Need to sand and polish them.
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The Ford Alcoas are better :flipoff2:
 
ProjectTwin or anyone else who wants to interject their opinion...

I'm going to pull the interior for a through cleaning. Speakers are getting replaced (memphis PRX60 6.5s), but I haven't found a good sub setup so I'll probably just keep it stock (factory HU and no amp). I however want to quiet the cab down and insulate. Not pulling the dash, its intact and I'm not risking it.

•Full coverage of CLD. Roof, pillars, doors, everything.

• Jute on the entire cab sans doors.

• Megazorbe on roof and doors

• MLV on floor and cab walls.

The back wall is bare, so debated on cutting/glueing a piece of wood in for future amp mounting.
 
TRINDU said:
ProjectTwin or anyone else who wants to interject their opinion...

I'm going to pull the interior for a through cleaning. Speakers are getting replaced (memphis PRX60 6.5s), but I haven't found a good sub setup so I'll probably just keep it stock (factory HU and no amp). I however want to quiet the cab down and insulate. Not pulling the dash, its intact and I'm not risking it.

•Full coverage of CLD. Roof, pillars, doors, everything.

• Jute on the entire cab sans doors.

• Megazorbe on roof and doors

• MLV on floor and cab walls.

The back wall is bare, so debated on cutting/glueing a piece of wood in for future amp mounting.
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Don’t forget MLV on the floor and back wall over the CLD/jute layers.

Second Skin has a 4th of July special right now.
 
ProjectTwin said:
Don’t forget MLV on the floor and back wall over the CLD/jute layers.

Second Skin has a 4th of July special right now.
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What is a good adhesive for the CLD to jute to MLV? Or megazorbe to CLD.

Im afraid of moisture and jute within the doors.

Planned on MLV for the floor, back wall, and the entirety of the club cab sans roof. Or is it not warranted above the window line?
 
TRINDU said:
What is a good adhesive for the CLD to jute to MLV? Or megazorbe to CLD.

Im afraid of moisture and jute within the doors.

Planned on MLV for the floor, back wall, and the entirety of the club cab sans roof. Or is it not warranted above the window line?
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To keep the jute (I use HeatWave Pro since it has two thermal layers) in place over the CLD just use this double-sided tape from Second Skin.

MegaZorbe is hydrophobic. Will not absorb water. Makes it great for doors. Do not use jute in the doors. You could get 2-3 layers of the 1/2" MZ in the door on the outer door skin.

When you order Megazorbe you can pick from peel and stick or no adhesive. Get the peel and stick version. Just have to look below the spot where you choose the sq ft amount to select if you want to select peel and stick or no adhesive. If you don't specify, you get the version with no adhesive.

In the truck I'd do CLD on everything I can reach. HeatWave Pro on the floor/cab wall and use MegaZorbe on the roof skin over the CLD. Also use MZ or Heatwave Pro on the back side of panels.

Then use Luxury Liner on the floor and cab wall over the jute/HeatWave Pro. MLV isn't something you want on the roof.
Easiest way to get MLV to stay in place on the cab wall is 3M's Dual Lock. Cut out a section of the HeatWave Pro and stick the Dual Lock to the CLD and MLV.
 
CAD lockout was easy. Popped the e clip, slid fork over, clip back in. Threw away the indicator harness and frame vacuum lines.

Things I've never encountered...

After I slap it all together I notice the UPPER BJ boot/seal is twisting with the motion of travel. Lower is good to go. I did the proper torque sequence when I stalled them. Convinced myself that the bushings are worn (215k and had moogs so someone has been in there before) allowing the BJ to seat too far binding the seal. Ordered new spicer 0° bushings (from downtofab, anyone know who that is?) So hopefully that fixes the issue 🤞 getting so close to actually driving the truck.

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Downtofab is awesome. My friend David Plumley and family's business.
 
Since everything up front is brand new... I'm debating on control arm bushings. Either the finest oem style chyna has to offer. Or energy poly. Or just run it.


Grendel said:
Downtofab is awesome. My friend David Plumley and family's business.
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Badass. I reluctantly order a lot from amazon/rockauto, but try to order from offroad independent shops when I can.

I'll check their site more often.
 
They also came up with and did a 40 page thread on the Ford hub conversion you did.

They're those people.
 
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