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Skittles aka: Timber Tiger
- Thread starter Mr Stubs
- Start date
Mr Stubs
Taste my rainbow, bitches
Well, this sucks....
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
The step down on the stub makes no sense either
Mr Stubs
Taste my rainbow, bitches
Talk to SpiderTrax about that, I didn’t make em.
crazybluerider
Squirrel!
You like the base of your splines being a stress riser?
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
He's also making me a full set of upper and lower links right now.
Sorry to play a part in your delay.
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
Look at the yoke side, then the flange side. Why do two different methods?
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
The spindle bearing has to ride somewhere
rockdog57
Getto fab garage owner
What does spider have to say about that? It isn’t like you can hog out the knuckle.
Ghetto Fab.
No idea what I'm doing
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 208
- Messages
- 555
Can you not pull the knuckle off, insert shafts then put the knuckle back on over the shaft?
Kevin
Kevin
pulling a knuckle off to get a shaft out is a big fat NOPE for me. id open up the knuckle bore before i signed myself up for something like that.
It looks like it's the ctm that's hitting? Can you clearance 2 sides? Like a small slot on the left and right the size of the caps. Fit it through, rotate 90°, slide the other half in?
Just throwing stuff at the wall. Sucks no matter how you slice it.
Just throwing stuff at the wall. Sucks no matter how you slice it.
vetteboy79
It's bent. #ttb
The spindle bearing has to ride somewhere
It's a unit bearing, there is no spindle.
Yep. This was pretty common back with the Yukon 4340 D60 shafts. You either had to grind down the yokes a little bit or clearance a few spots on the bore. Generally we did the bore as we didn't want to get stuck somewhere having to swap in a shaft and not have it fit.
I wouldn't go all the way around as the unit bearing and bore are meant to be a tight fit, but a few small lines with a die grinder to sneak the caps past isn't the end of the world.
It's a unit bearing, there is no spindle.
Yep. This was pretty common back with the Yukon 4340 D60 shafts. You either had to grind down the yokes a little bit or clearance a few spots on the bore. Generally we did the bore as we didn't want to get stuck somewhere having to swap in a shaft and not have it fit.
I wouldn't go all the way around as the unit bearing and bore are meant to be a tight fit, but a few small lines with a die grinder to sneak the caps past isn't the end of the world.
I thought there was something about the Rockwell or Big Bell stuff needing 4 “corners” clearanced in the SuperDuty 60 knuckles also.
Mr Stubs
Taste my rainbow, bitches
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
It's a unit bearing, there is no spindle.
There is still a spindle, it is just integrated with the bearing
Whatever you want to call it, there is still a small bearing that presses into the inside of the unit bearing to support the axle shaft
Blase
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2020
- Member Number
- 2043
- Messages
- 177
I THINK the splines under the yoke are being used differently (press or interference fit) v/s the slip fit splines on the drive slug end. They see different forces and SpiderTrax is skilled enough to know when the relief adds strength and when it takes it away!
Glad to see the updates started back up!
Question: Did you have this same issue with the front axle? Both use 99-04 outers with Spider Trax Axles and CTM joints correct?
Glad to see the updates started back up!
Question: Did you have this same issue with the front axle? Both use 99-04 outers with Spider Trax Axles and CTM joints correct?
Mr Stubs
Taste my rainbow, bitches
I did not have the same issue with the front. This leads me to believe that there are definitely different castings, and for what reason/years I don’t know.
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
I bet the 99-04 stuff is all the same. Your issue seems to be the register for the unit bearing, I cant imagine it has a great variance.
Mr Stubs
Taste my rainbow, bitches
Marked out the high spots and got after them. Now I just have to click the shafts in order to slide them in and out.
Mr Stubs
Taste my rainbow, bitches
Links all mounted up and hydro lines bled. Getting the toe set on the front and back axles.
crazybluerider
Squirrel!
I dig the paint on the rams.
Mr Stubs
Taste my rainbow, bitches
We will see... I’m not 💯 on how it’s going to look once it’s all together.... but I fucked up the paint on the rams during fabrication of the mounts and they needed something.
Mr Stubs
Taste my rainbow, bitches
Provience
Kill!
Mr Stubs
Taste my rainbow, bitches
So I’m a cheap fuck and improvise all the time…
I use small washers and bend them for my poly brake line attachment points.
I use small washers and bend them for my poly brake line attachment points.
Blase
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2020
- Member Number
- 2043
- Messages
- 177
Man I love the brake line hold downs. I'm going to use that on my build!!
Since this is somewhat brake related.....you mind me asking what your brake set up is and how you like it? master(power or manual, Size) calipers? rotors?
Since this is somewhat brake related.....you mind me asking what your brake set up is and how you like it? master(power or manual, Size) calipers? rotors?
Mr Stubs
Taste my rainbow, bitches
Manual brakes.
Spidertrax rotors, Cutting brake lever for rear axle, Willwood calipers, 1 1/16 Willwood MC, and I forget the pedal length.
Absolutely no complaints, they work great.
Mr Stubs
Taste my rainbow, bitches
No oiling issues.
I run a gallon of oil in the diffs. That’s just up to the small fluid level plug on the back of the housing.
I run a gallon of oil in the diffs. That’s just up to the small fluid level plug on the back of the housing.
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