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Side Charging ARish

Cci quiets are about the biggest dumbassery I know of. I can't fathom why I'd use them when standard velocity is subsonic and stable.
 
Texas97 said:
Cci quiets are about the biggest dumbassery I know of. I can't fathom why I'd use them when standard velocity is subsonic and stable.
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i really like the standard, it works in everything SA or not without issue and it seems to make less of a mess in the revolvers. after seeing the standard do 12+" into the gel, hell i'm not even going to talk any shit against carrying it as a "self defense" round :laughing: i thought it had merits anyways, but even moreso now.

seems like the CCI sales pitch for the even lower velocity rounds seems to focus on being cleaner, i dunno, i've never owned a can to know how much regular 22lr leaves crud everywhere inside versus the lower powder rounds
 
Provience said:
i really like the standard, it works in everything SA or not without issue and it seems to make less of a mess in the revolvers. after seeing the standard do 12+" into the gel, hell i'm not even going to talk any shit against carrying it as a "self defense" round :laughing: i thought it had merits anyways, but even moreso now.

seems like the CCI sales pitch for the even lower velocity rounds seems to focus on being cleaner, i dunno, i've never owned a can to know how much regular 22lr leaves crud everywhere inside versus the lower powder rounds
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22lr is dirty. You have to clean 22lr cans every 800 to 1000 rounds.
 
Glad to see your build runs good! I read somewhere on the internet (that I probably wrote on the intardnet) that, for higher velocity .22lr, anything longer than a 12" barrel is superfluous. Empirically, I have no data supporting any of that, but I am running an 11.5" barrel. My dedicated upper can be somewhat finicky at times and I'm not sure why. Sometimes I experience more FTEs (almost all malfunctions I suffer are FTE) with the suppressor mounted, other times it will run hundreds of rnds just fine. I clean it religiously, never gone more than 300 rnds before cleaning. I have several different recoil/return springs and the heaviest one "seems" less prone to FTEs along with a lighter hammer spring (I ground off about half of the hammer "spur", too). Other times a plastic lip magazine runs better than a steel lipped mag, it just depends. I do have 50 rnd drum that runs *almost* flawlessly. I have broken three bolt carrier slide thingys (CMMG has always sent me a new one, free, when I tell them) over the thousands and thousands of rnds my AR-22 has digested. I know that beggars can't be choosers right now but mine seems to run best on the Browning .22lr (orange and black box). If there was one thing I would like to try is a very, very lightly fluted chamber (H&K style) to see if that aids in ejection. I have tried one box of sub-sonic .22lr, I won't be doing that again. I hope this helps you, or anyone.

And, perhaps in my quest for 100% perfection, I'm expecting a level of perfection these (mine especially) just can't deliver.
 
FrankenToy said:
Glad to see your build runs good! I read somewhere on the internet (that I probably wrote on the intardnet) that, for higher velocity .22lr, anything longer than a 12" barrel is superfluous. Empirically, I have no data supporting any of that, but I am running an 11.5" barrel. My dedicated upper can be somewhat finicky at times and I'm not sure why. Sometimes I experience more FTEs (almost all malfunctions I suffer are FTE) with the suppressor mounted, other times it will run hundreds of rnds just fine. I clean it religiously, never gone more than 300 rnds before cleaning. I have several different recoil/return springs and the heaviest one "seems" less prone to FTEs along with a lighter hammer spring (I ground off about half of the hammer "spur", too). Other times a plastic lip magazine runs better than a steel lipped mag, it just depends. I do have 50 rnd drum that runs *almost* flawlessly. I have broken three bolt carrier slide thingys (CMMG has always sent me a new one, free, when I tell them) over the thousands and thousands of rnds my AR-22 has digested. I know that beggars can't be choosers right now but mine seems to run best on the Browning .22lr (orange and black box). If there was one thing I would like to try is a very, very lightly fluted chamber (H&K style) to see if that aids in ejection. I have tried one box of sub-sonic .22lr, I won't be doing that again. I hope this helps you, or anyone.

And, perhaps in my quest for 100% perfection, I'm expecting a level of perfection these (mine especially) just can't deliver.
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i'm curious where you are breaking the bolt carriers :confused: it seems like the heavier spring would help keep them from slamming so hard
 
Provience said:
i'm curious where you are breaking the bolt carriers :confused: it seems like the heavier spring would help keep them from slamming so hard
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Two were broken at the 90* end plate where the return/recoil spring guide rod rests in that end plate. They both broke where it's welded to the bolt slide (from the factory it's only welded on the bottom side, should be welded on both top and bottom side I think). You *can* repair it if you are able to do a little precision welding. Last one broke one of the slide legs off where the "chamber cap" sits preventing the bolt from squirting out of the slide.. Take that with a grain of salt, I literally have gone through several, several thousands of rounds.
 
FrankenToy said:
Two were broken at the 90* end plate where the return/recoil spring guide rod rests in that end plate. They both broke where it's welded to the bolt slide (from the factory it's only welded on the bottom side, should be welded on both top and bottom side I think). You *can* repair it if you are able to do a little precision welding. Last one broke one of the slide legs off where the "chamber cap" sits preventing the bolt from squirting out of the slide.. Take that with a grain of salt, I literally have gone through several, several thousands of rounds.
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How long did the bolts last usually before they broke?
 
FrankenToy said:
Two were broken at the 90* end plate where the return/recoil spring guide rod rests in that end plate. They both broke where it's welded to the bolt slide (from the factory it's only welded on the bottom side, should be welded on both top and bottom side I think). You *can* repair it if you are able to do a little precision welding. Last one broke one of the slide legs off where the "chamber cap" sits preventing the bolt from squirting out of the slide.. Take that with a grain of salt, I literally have gone through several, several thousands of rounds.
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good to hear, the right 2 bear is, what appears to be, their own clone version of the CMMG stuff. so it will be interesting to see if there are differences in where they wear.
 
Aisin said:
How long did the bolts last usually before they broke?
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Bolts will last a good long time, it's the carrier that it slides on that breaks (dammit I can't find the flipoff emoji). Empirically, I don't know exactly but I want to say I went through at least 8K rounds.
 
FrankenToy said:
Bolts will last a good long time, it's the carrier that it slides on that breaks (dammit I can't find the flipoff emoji). Empirically, I don't know exactly but I want to say I went through at least 8K rounds.
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what are you using for a heavier recoil spring? not that i'm having any issues currently, but a heavier spring sure seems like the hot ticket, if nothing else to limit the ejection distance but also likely to help take some stress off the frame

edit: well, maybe i just don't care :laughing: need to go shoot it some more
 
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Provience said:
what are you using for a heavier recoil spring? not that i'm having any issues currently, but a heavier spring sure seems like the hot ticket, if nothing else to limit the ejection distance but also likely to help take some stress off the frame

edit: well, maybe i just don't care :laughing: need to go shoot it some more
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The short answer is the blue one (or is it red?).... Honestly, it has been a few years since I bought the package of assorted recoil/return springs and all I can recall is that I am using the stiffest one that came with the assortment. I can't find the site where I purchased the package now either (the plastic bag that the remainder of the springs are in doesn't have a label :( ). Not much help, apologies.
 
FrankenToy said:
The short answer is the blue one (or is it red?).... Honestly, it has been a few years since I bought the package of assorted recoil/return springs and all I can recall is that I am using the stiffest one that came with the assortment. I can't find the site where I purchased the package now either (the plastic bag that the remainder of the springs are in doesn't have a label :( ). Not much help, apologies.
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not a problem, mostly just curious :beer:
 
my wifes dad happened up the other day, he is one of the millions of new gun owners as of last year :D

so of course, now that he's got one he wants more and he actually liked this 22lr pistol. damn near everything is available except for barrels. :confused: couldn't find a dedicated 9" barrel available. he is probably going to pick up a lower on his own and then have me assemble it for him. he's got smaller hands than me and i had him try it out with a standard charging handle and it seemed to work out easier for him.
 
Provience did you have to use the collar with the barrel? Kinda confused whether it’s needed or not.
 
Collar? No, floating handguard still just hand tight. The dedicated 22lr bolt and barrel lock up pretty far inside the upper. Lot's of room to party
 
everything runs the CCI "standard" 40gr stuff pretty dang well, so that is what i try to stick with generally.
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I did a test with a bunch of different ammo to see what my M&P 15-22 Performance Center liked best, and the best group I got was with the Wolf Match Extra made by Eley, various Prime, Lapua and SK ammo was good as well, but the big surprise was CCI standard velocity black box 40g was right up there with the big boys.
 
Provience said:
Collar? No, floating handguard still just hand tight. The dedicated 22lr bolt and barrel lock up pretty far inside the upper. Lot's of room to party
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Sorry, I read it wrong. The collar is to use a conversion kit with a dedicated .22lr barrel. I’m currently waiting on a bolt and barrel from CMMG. They are saying 20 plus weeks for back order. :shaking:
 
Aisin said:
Sorry, I read it wrong. The collar is to use a conversion kit with a dedicated .22lr barrel. I’m currently waiting on a bolt and barrel from CMMG. They are saying 20 plus weeks for back order. :shaking:
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Wow!

Right to bear had their version in stock the other day, but not with the barrel length I wanted.
 
PAE said:
I usually wouldnt link to a "arfcom" thread but the knoledge you may gain in the thread linked below could save you some time in club fed.

That is if you are smart enough to realise what guy you have in your pics is both illegal on a statenof Washington and federal level.

With the application of the full auto parts and or andn with both the lower receiver and posession of the full auto parts you have created a situation known as Constructive possession.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/hometown...te-/15-631846/
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You're a damn idiot for believing that shit.

It's nothing more than fear mongering. If you don't have a 3rd hole in the reciever it's not a machine gun and they can't do anything to you.

Quit being a tinfoil hat wearing fudd.


Provience. There is a much easier way to install the bolt release. Couple pieces of tape and a pair of channel locks. Squeeze the pin into the first side to start, add parts, squeeze it through. Takes about 15 seconds. Tape off anything you don't want scratched.
 
Texas97 said:
Cci quiets are about the biggest dumbassery I know of. I can't fathom why I'd use them when standard velocity is subsonic and stable.
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They're much quieter without a suppressor out of an 18" barreled rifle. Bolt gun so there's no functioning to worry about.
 
Chevy_man said:
You're a damn idiot for believing that shit.

It's nothing more than fear mongering. If you don't have a 3rd hole in the reciever it's not a machine gun and they can't do anything to you.

Quit being a tinfoil hat wearing fudd.


Provience. There is a much easier way to install the bolt release. Couple pieces of tape and a pair of channel locks. Squeeze the pin into the first side to start, add parts, squeeze it through. Takes about 15 seconds. Tape off anything you don't want scratched.
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Ive been charged with possission of a MG back in the mid 1980's so when you spend 20K and have BATFE and Calif DOJ breathing down your back doing their best to come up with more and more things tk charge you with, then you can talk about who the idiot is, fyi they were able to manipulate the M16 selector and create a situation where it doubled as in fired two rounds with one pull of the trigger.

So if you are willing to chance it and have 20-50K to waste and are also willing to risk being convicted of a felony and losing your RTKBA than have at it put all of the M16 parts in your AR15 you like, then when you get busted whos the idiot!!

You stupid mother fucker.
 
PAE said:
Ive been charged with possission of a MG back in the mid 1980's so when you spend 20K and have BATFE and Calif DOJ breathing down your back doing their best to come up with more and more things tk charge you with, then you can talk about who the idiot is, fyi they were able to manipulate the M16 selector and create a situation where it doubled as in fired two rounds with one pull of the trigger.

So if you are willing to chance it and have 20-50K to waste and are also willing to risk being convicted of a felony and losing your RTKBA than have at it put all of the M16 parts in your AR15 you like, then when you get busted whos the idiot!!

You stupid mother fucker.
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You are a lying sack of shit.


They don't just run around finding people and testing their guns. You can't have a double unless you had modified parts. The mil-spec trigger doesn't go full unless you have the lower drilled to install the auto-sear. An auto hammer and bcg are not enough to go auto.
 
Nope not lying total truth.


You would be dangerous if you had half a brain.
 
PAE said:
Nope not lying total truth.


You would be dangerous if you had half a brain.
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So explain just how it came to be that LE had your rifle and was investigating it? What kind of illegal shit were you into that they were trying to pin a machine gun on you?

Considering you display tendencies of a schizophrenic, it's hard to believe any of the bullshit you spew.
 
Was at a shooting area in angeles National forest , that area got too (what I felt was unsafe with people drinking and getting loud etc so we left and drove further up the road into the area the usgs maps call "something saddle", forest service LEOS (green trucks with red and blue light bar) drove up wanted to inspect everything that was laid out on truck tailgate, they spotted my shorty CAR15 clone and test fired it as seen in later court paperwork (discovery and statements) when selector was manipulated the firearm would fire twice most likely like whats called a binary trigger.

The firearm was a kit build that was purchased from a local gun shop in the glendale area and I suppose the owner kf that shop didnt know the difference between M16 FCG and AR15 FCG parts and how having a "full house" of M16 parts with the exception of the sear was forbidden and would in some instances perform more like a M16 as in the doubleing when the selector was manipulated in the correct way when pulling the trigger.


This isnt bullshit its the honest truth, If I didnt GAF about my fellow man I wouldn't have said a word, If I can save another the legal BS I went thru its worth the ridicule from individuals like yourself.
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Hmmmmm, I suppose if the gun were built from an M16 kit (FA hammer, BCG is not important but the disconnector and selector would be). If one had the selector in SEMI and then pulled the trigger the gun would discharge normally and the hammer would reset (caught be the disconnector). Now, if the trigger remains depressed and THEN the selector is twisted to AUTO then the disconnector would release and the gun would discharge again, this time with the hammer following the BCG rendering the gun, essentially, inert until recharged while the trigger is not being depressed. Plausible, however only someone VERY familiar with the operation of the M16 would know to do this. I would think this beyond the scope and understanding of most LEOs.

I guess the lesson here is: If one is to build a gun from a M16 parts kit, grind the tail of the disconnector off BEFORE taking it to a range.
 
Under CA laws [PC 16880(b) mere possession of a select-fire (full-auto/burst) M16/M4 lower parts kit equates to possession of a MG.

Law section

leginfo.legislature.ca.gov

Or did you want federal law ?

(c) The term “machinegun” also includes any weapon deemed by the federal Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives as readily convertible to a machinegun under Chapter 53 (commencing with Section 5801) of Title 26 of the United States Code.

(Amended by Stats. 2011, Ch. 296, Sec. 228. (AB 1023) Effective January 1, 2012.)



guys on THR talk about this very issue.

Legal Question: M16 parts in an AR15

alright- everyone knows that putting M16 parts in an AR15 is illegal according to the BATF. My question is "which parts?". obviously parts that facilitate full auto fire are out- but lets say I bought one of these M16 parts kits floating around and replaced the receiver, trigger group, fire...
www.thehighroad.org



1619919442587.png
 
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