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Shop wood stove thread

You can add on a cadillac converter on top of your stove, it just fits in like a piece of chimney, takes care of burning all the wasted smoke (unburned fuel).
gonna have to look into this, because most of the magic about the catalytic stoves is how airtight they are, letting you damp the fire down to barely a smolder
 
I guess i should update this as i kinda forget about it. About a month or so ago The day before i was to start building my stove i happened to come across this for sale on fb for 500$. Got it home and set up and even ducted three ducts off it to move the air. Last weekend was finally cold enough and got her raging hit and blowing and withen about two hrs i had to start cracking doors to cool it down inside. Definitely worth the 500$,woulda spent that on building one even since i had most the steel already.
 

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I guess i should update this as i kinda forget about it. About a month or so ago The day before i was to start building my stove i happened to come across this for sale on fb for 500$. Got it home and set up and even ducted three ducts off it to move the air. Last weekend was finally cold enough and got her raging hit and blowing and withen about two hrs i had to start cracking doors to cool it down inside. Definitely worth the 500$,woulda spent that on building one even since i had most the steel already.

How's the furnace fan off the back scavenge the hot air? I need to get building something. :laughing:

Edit: google makes it look like its just a tin box surrounding the woodstove, pulling the hot air off the outside of the stove.

I am thinking I will just fab up some aluminum fins that sit on my current stove. stick them in a sheet metal box on top of the wood stove and draw the air through it to pipe around the shop.
 
Edit: google makes it look like its just a tin box surrounding the woodstove, pulling the hot air off the outside of the stove.
that's all most of them are

I've got one sitting here that actually has a fire-tube heat exchanger built into it, but that's the exception and rather high maintenence
 
Edit: google makes it look like its just a tin box surrounding the woodstove, pulling the hot air off the outside of the stove

that's all most of them are

Yep. I've got a Woodchuck furnace, very similar to Redtruggy's. Remove the outer tins and it looks like this:
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The fan goes on the bottom left in this picture, and blows through the opening you can kind of see, up around the firebox, and into the plenum.
 
Yep. I've got a Woodchuck furnace, very similar to Redtruggy's. Remove the outer tins and it looks like this:
nc_ohc=81GV8Z9P7i0AX801rh9&_nc_ht=scontent.fagc1-2.jpg


The fan goes on the bottom left in this picture, and blows through the opening you can kind of see, up around the firebox, and into the plenum.
Thanks
 
gonna have to look into this, because most of the magic about the catalytic stoves is how airtight they are, letting you damp the fire down to barely a smolder

Are you thinking of the afterburner type stoves? The ones that inject hot fresh air at the top of the stove where the smoke is. I know those ones rely on being airtight.

Took some pics for you. This is on the stove it came with. I've never lit a fire in it.

I looked into it before, and I recall the wood stove company pioneered the cadillac converter for wood stoves. Two names for the same company, or something like that. Later models got the converter built into the stove.

(the second pic is the badge on the stove, not the converter).

I'm having trouble posting pics, but the converter brand is "Dorwood". On the side there's a badge indicating slide handle to bypass the converter when opening the stove door, or when the converter shows less than 500F

PA301313.JPG
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I'm going to be installing the Lopi pre regen stove in a 40' container shop, soon...
Yea big deal:flipoff2:



Pee
Esssss
It's spelled
Catalytic
Fukkin
Converter:flipoff2:
Epa caddies got TINY PIPES:flipoff2:
 
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Yep. I've got a Woodchuck furnace, very similar to Redtruggy's. Remove the outer tins and it looks like this:
nc_ohc=81GV8Z9P7i0AX801rh9&_nc_ht=scontent.fagc1-2.jpg


The fan goes on the bottom left in this picture, and blows through the opening you can kind of see, up around the firebox, and into the plenum.
Yep that about it. Seems to work fairly good for my use so far. Built a plenum for the top with 3 8in ducts coming off it,two ducts plumbed to opposite side of shop and the other one just a piece of duct up and a 90 to direct it to other end as the stove is offset in shop. I also added a small harbor freight fan blowing on the back of stove around exhaust as the frint and back if the stove are not tinned off and do carry some good heat,seems to be doing good.
 
I need a heat exchanger/baffle setup bad, old stove has no internal/secondary burn ( shop is T shirt warm, but burning lots of wood ) and a better way of moving the air through the shop.
 
I thought we had another thread on this already...


This is the one in my shop. I need to build a diverter duct thing for the top of it - just putting that piece of scrap sheet leaning against a jack stand made a pretty big difference. If I ever run out of other projects, I'll eventually build a full duct system that actually pushes the air completely around the shop.

1670357730472.png
 

Mine has a rectangular duct flange, so it needs to be a big box with a bend. If I get creative enough, I could do a box with round side outputs and stick a couple 6" or 8" 90's on them and help direct the air where I want it.

Bonus thought, that would choke down the output size which would increase velocity on the smaller round ducts, which should help throw the warm air further.


Random internet pic of my same furnace
1670361869682.png
 
If I get creative enough, I could do a box with round side outputs and stick a couple 6" or 8" 90's on them
That's what I did in my house, if you need some inspiration:

nc_ohc=1pK8SpvW4hIAX_bAewJ&_nc_ht=scontent.fagc1-1.jpg


2 8" on the near side that got connected to the house ductwork and 2 6" on the far side that blow into the basement.
I even offset the split to send air to each side, proportionally to the output area.
 
That's what I did in my house, if you need some inspiration:

nc_ohc=1pK8SpvW4hIAX_bAewJ&_nc_ht=scontent.fagc1-1.jpg


2 8" on the near side that got connected to the house ductwork and 2 6" on the far side that blow into the basement.
I even offset the split to send air to each side, proportionally to the output area.

That'd do it. I only need front and 1 side though (I really need to rearrange stuff and move those shelves since they block flow entirely to the left of the stove. I'd be tempted to put them all on top of the box so you have more options to point them.

I need to see if there's an hvac shop in town that can make me something like that. I have a few sheets of light guage galvanized, but by the time I buy the flanges and the time it'll take me to cut and bend it up, I'm probably not far off paying someone an hour or two's time to nock it out.
 
Insurance companies are definitely cracking down or not insuring wood stoves in shops.

For anyone that encounters that look into wood boilers. Plus the heat is controlled
 
Insurance companies are definitely cracking down or not insuring wood stoves in shops.

For anyone that encounters that look into wood boilers. Plus the heat is controlled
which makes no sense to me, TBH. Insurance said "no" to wood stove in our house, but full thumbs up to open faced fireplace.
 
which makes no sense to me, TBH. Insurance said "no" to wood stove in our house, but full thumbs up to open faced fireplace.
Fireplaces you’re typically home when they are on. Wood stoves are a fill it and forget it type deal
 
I don't know anyone who burns an open fireplace for anything other than ambiance and a little extra heat when you're sitting down to watch a movie. I don't think there's many left they're running 24/7 come heating season
 
We converted a buddy's stove to used oil this weekend. Small drip and a bit of shop air. Easy to maintain 600-700* stove temp. Easy to het it to 1,000* also.

Best we can figure it uses about .25 gallons an hour.

Running it pretty hard in the video to see what it would do. Eailsy melted the stainless pot under the rotor and got the rotor flowing cherry red.

Takes less fuss then the wood stove to get going and heats up aloy quicker. Plus once it's going its kinda a set it and forget it.

20221205_202135.jpg

 
do tell more about this oil burner, how long does it take to fire up? hell in one night i would use a gallon witch is not alot considering how much oil get changed around here. that would be alot easier than cutting wood....
 
We converted a buddy's stove to used oil this weekend. Small drip and a bit of shop air. Easy to maintain 600-700* stove temp. Easy to het it to 1,000* also.

Best we can figure it uses about .25 gallons an hour.

Running it pretty hard in the video to see what it would do. Eailsy melted the stainless pot under the rotor and got the rotor flowing cherry red.

Takes less fuss then the wood stove to get going and heats up aloy quicker. Plus once it's going its kinda a set it and forget it.

20221205_202135.jpg

The auto garage near me burnt to the ground 2 years back because of what you posted. They heated the garage like that for probably 15-20 years. One day it got away and Burnt the bitch to the ground. Insurance said too bad so sad. Quite a few of the neighbors helped him rebuild.
 
just watched a couple you tubes wow not complicated at all and you could still keep it as a wood burner also if you wanted too. cool
 
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