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Shop wood stove thread

Redtruggy

I cant type or spell.
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
427
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184
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Gone crazy
I didnt see another thread so figure ill start one.
Im done heating my shop with diesel heaters, too damn expensive lately and noisy. Gonna build up a wood stove this summer and gathering idea. Roughly 2000sqft shop, half 12 tall other half 19. Right now the tall section is all insulated, ahort side isnt as it was walled off for storage til this spring i opened it all up for work, will be insulated before winter though.

Plans now are for a 4ft deepx4ft tallx2.5wide box style with heat soak tubes thru the top section with fan pushing air thru them, and maybe fins on too outside for more heat soak witj fan blowing across.

What you got that works or dont work or ideas to try for best results?
 
I like the looks of the ones like this... Could add a square tube down the middle at the bottom and actually force air through the ducts with a fan if you wanted to.

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Check with your insurance first.

Most won't touch wood stoves. Very few of the ones that will, will touch homebuilt stoves (vs UL rated stoves).
And in a shop that's going to have fumes from gas, paint, etc, I doubt that's insurable at all.
I seem to recall a building or fire code specifically banning wood stoves in shops, but I may be incorrect.

If it was me, I'd do an outdoor wood boiler or outdoor furnace.
 
AKnate said:
Check with your insurance first.

Most won't touch wood stoves. Very few of the ones that will, will touch homebuilt stoves (vs UL rated stoves).
And in a shop that's going to have fumes from gas, paint, etc, I doubt that's insurable at all.
I seem to recall a building or fire code specifically banning wood stoves in shops, but I may be incorrect.

If it was me, I'd do an outdoor wood boiler or outdoor furnace.
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I do metal fab/race fab. The fire danger from stove is less than the fire danger from myself welding.
Full metal shop so not much to go up,and 300ft from house and any other buildings. Ins gonna screw me no matter what anyways
 
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ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Don’t need to get that fancy.
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The stove on the left will heat this 90x120 with no issues. Just a steel tank and no more than 1/2 wheelbarrow load of wood at a time. Any more and it will cook you out lol.
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That pic in your thread is what made me make this one, i think you got a lil more sqft than me😂
 
Redtruggy said:
I do metal fab/race fab. The fire danger from stove is less than the fire danger from myself welding.
Full metal shop so not much to go up,and 300ft from house and any other buildings. Ins gonna screw me no matter what anyways
Click to expand...

Yes, but if insurance says no, not much you can do if you need the insurance.
It was just a thought in case you hadn't thought about that part of it.

I had a hell of a time finding anyone to insure my "textbook" 3 bed 2 bath house because of a woodstove.

I got bullshit reasons like being too far from a fire plug, (~1000 ft) too far from a fire station (2 miles), house off a dirt road, (tons of dirt roads here), roof was over a few years old, house has vinyl siding, etc, etc
 
42 years ago I made my house wood heater from a 40 gallon electric water heater tank. A couple years later I made another for my shop heater. Both are still going strong in the same locations. 10 years ago we made another for my son in law's shop.
Build a Recycled Water Heater Wood Stove – Mother Earth News

I've since moved to Michigan and have 4000sqft shop, I heat 600sqft all winter and I can heat another 800sqft. Put the partition back up
 
read up on secondary combustion air and pay some attention to designing the firebox to get a good secondary burn going
you really want to burn up all the volatiles that get boiled out of the wood instead of sending it up the stack
you'll get twice the heat from the same amount of wood
 
_ogre said:
. Put the partition back up
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While i agree with you, thats not gonna happen. Those bays are race kart bays for kiddos and mine and he loves to tinker with them way too much so ill make sure they stay usable
 
How do you cook dinner on something like that, I have a 6 burner wood stove that does more than boils water.

Pics later if I can find them.


billybob_81067 said:
I like the looks of the ones like this... Could add a square tube down the middle at the bottom and actually force air through the ducts with a fan if you wanted to.

th-2290997184.jpg
7250ad216ee782bb0eb785cb7ef603d4.jpg
Click to expand...
 
[486] said:
read up on secondary combustion air and pay some attention to designing the firebox to get a good secondary burn going
you really want to burn up all the volatiles that get boiled out of the wood instead of sending it up the stack
you'll get twice the heat from the same amount of wood
Click to expand...

Is that the same idea as the trendy smokeless fire pits? Basically getting the smoke itself to burn
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Is that the same idea as the trendy smokeless fire pits? Basically getting the smoke itself to burn
Click to expand...
just like diesels
particulate is unburned fuel

with secondary air you can burn this separate from heating the solid fuel more

like how dumb wood stoves burn clean with full draft, you choke them down and you got a bunch of white smoke, you don't choke them down and you're burning a fuckton of wood anyways

you give some extra draft away from the fuel and it'll burn the shit without cooking more of the shit outta the wood, nomtombout?
 
[486] said:
just like diesels
particulate is unburned fuel

with secondary air you can burn this separate from heating the solid fuel more

like how dumb wood stoves burn clean with full draft, you choke them down and you got a bunch of white smoke, you don't choke them down and you're burning a fuckton of wood anyways

you give some extra draft away from the fuel and it'll burn the shit without cooking more of the shit outta the wood, nomtombout?
Click to expand...

I think I get it, but not picturing how to accomplish is on a home made deal.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I think I get it, but not picturing how to accomplish is on a home made deal.
Click to expand...
You weld in a second floor under the stove that has holes to let in cool outside air. This air is isolated from the fire, so it can't burn, but it gets really fucking hot. The air continues up the back or side walls of the stove to the top. Here it gets released into the stove under the baffle (steel plate that's below the chimney hole). Make sure it comes out in tiny holes or slots to encourage good mix with the smoke.

If you built it right, the smoke will catch fire.

You can also add pipes in the fire box to do the same thing.

Search, there's lots of pics and tech out there.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
You weld in a second floor under the stove that has holes to let in cool outside air. This air is isolated from the fire, so it can't burn, but it gets really fucking hot. The air continues up the back or side walls of the stove to the top. Here it gets released into the stove under the baffle (steel plate that's below the chimney hole). Make sure it comes out in tiny holes or slots to encourage good mix with the smoke.

If you built it right, the smoke will catch fire.

You can also add pipes in the fire box to do the same thing.

Search, there's lots of pics and tech out there.
Click to expand...

So exactly the same idea as the smokeless fire pits.

Good to know.
 
you don't really need to pre-heat the secondary air though it does help keep the firebox temperature up
the baffle is kinda to keep the fire further from the flue pipe, and to keep the flue gasses in the firebox longer (and to keep the secondary air somewhat closer to the fuel rather than just running right out the flue)

pretty much the starting air goes through the wood directly, the secondary air goes atop the firebox, with the oxygen from it only interacting with the wood if it hadn't encountered woodgas to burn before it tumbled around and got to the wood, so it does still burn the wood, just only after burning the rest of the volitiles first

once you got the firebox hot the starting air into the wood is shut off and the secondary air takes over
 
[486] said:
you don't really need to pre-heat the secondary air though it does help keep the firebox temperature up
the baffle is kinda to keep the fire further from the flue pipe, and to keep the flue gasses in the firebox longer (and to keep the secondary air somewhat closer to the fuel rather than just running right out the flue)

pretty much the starting air goes through the wood directly, the secondary air goes atop the firebox, with the oxygen from it only interacting with the wood if it hadn't encountered woodgas to burn before it tumbled around and got to the wood, so it does still burn the wood, just only after burning the rest of the volitiles first

once you got the firebox hot the starting air into the wood is shut off and the secondary air takes over
Click to expand...

Is this method used in home wood stoves? Or does it get too hot? :laughing:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Is this method used in home wood stoves? Or does it get too hot? :laughing:
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it's how all the newer non-catalytic ones do it

ETA: kinda cool that with really dry wood you can sometimes get a 12hr burn out of a tiny little 16x16x12" firebox
nothing compared to catalytic stoves, but fuck catalysts
 
A customer of mine has this giant in their shop. Definitely keeps the shop warm. Biggest stove ie ever seen.
 

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Anyone add a secondary burn baffle setup to an older wood stove?

My house stoves both have a baffle setup, but my dinosaur in the shop doesn't. The dampener on the exhaust side in the stove seems to also only allow it to be either full open or closed. Should I try and make it adjustable, or add a dampener in the flue?

I really need to get it running a bit more efficiently this winter as I will basically need a fire burning 24/7 keeping the shop a decent temperature for some cnc machines this winter.

Another bridge I need to cross is moving warm air from the stove area into another separate shop area where the machines will be. I am thinking some round ducting and inline fans pulling air from right above the wood stove. Possibly running the fan on thermostat in the machine room so it stays a bit more consistent temp wise.
 
Pook said:
"bunch of text"
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You can add on a cadillac converter on top of your stove, it just fits in like a piece of chimney, takes care of burning all the wasted smoke (unburned fuel).

Also, for air movement you can salvage combustion blowers from old house furnaces and powered water heaters. They're noisier than bathroom exhaust fans (which also work great).
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
You can add on a cadillac converter on top of your stove, it just fits in like a piece of chimney, takes care of burning all the wasted smoke (unburned fuel).

Also, for air movement you can salvage combustion blowers from old house furnaces and powered water heaters. They're noisier than bathroom exhaust fans (which also work great).
Click to expand...

does a person have to steal it from a cadillac or use a generic Rock Auto type? Is there a specfic model or year? :flipoff2:
 
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