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rockota said:
Yeah... picked up some on amazon. Easy fix, just a bummer. I stared at the ceiling for 45 minutes and came to conclusion that I'd ether be buying cords or completely moving electrical...
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Or just use it as an excuse to buy more lights. That's what I'd have done.
 
This cord is what I need, to extend the lights apart more, the spacing of my purlins is 5' so a 5' cord is a few inches too short.

1643298307781.png
 
rockota said:
doesn't work for me w/o moving electric. i went down that path. :)
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These cords I linked are 10' just cut the end off at the correct length and install these plugs, thats what my dad did in his 8' celing shop so there wasn't any extra wire.

1643298869917.png
 
CarterKraft said:
These cords I linked are 10' just cut the end off at the correct length and install these plugs, thats what my dad did in his 8' celing shop so there wasn't any extra wire.

1643298869917.png
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They're black. They'll clash against the tin on the ceiling.:flipoff2:

I think i have it all worked out now. Though now you got me thinking about hanging them perpendicular to how I was planning... dammit.
 
rockota said:
They're black. They'll clash against the tin on the ceiling.:flipoff2:

I think i have it all worked out now. Though now you got me thinking about hanging them perpendicular to how I was planning... dammit.
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LOL
If I had flat drywall ceilings it would be easy but metal building is making it tough.
1643300143765.png
 
CarterKraft said:
LOL
If I had flat drywall ceilings it would be easy but metal building is making it tough.
1643300143765.png
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decided I can't make perpendicular work unless/until I put tin on the ceiling... Right now, rafters are 5' apart, which would make it weird to hang 8' lights perpendicular to that.
 
Hung 3 of of my 8 footers last night just to get a feel for the output. The pics don't do it justice, but its a shit ton brighter with just 3. Granted, I'm running shitty 60w equivalent LED bulbs in the old fixtures that are not as bright as the 90w CFLs that were in them, but still way, way brighter.

With the length of the linking cables, I'm going to have to put 5 across the 55' width. I'd be more than happy with 4, but I'd have to either wire them individually or buy longer cables, which will cost more than the extra fixtures!


It's actually got me thinking it may be too bright for every day use and I may want to try to wire every other one on a different switch. It'll be a pain in the ass, but I probably already have enough spare wire up there between all the old fixtures.


My current setup has two switches, one for each side - 1/2 of the shop get lit up with each switch. It's not bad because most of the time I'm only working on the lift side and the other side is mostly storage at the moment.

Before:
1643569619462.png

After:
1643569645050.png
 
Thefishguy77 said:
Anyone suggest mounting lights on the walls in the areas your planning on doing detailed type work. 2-3’ off the ground.
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I'm going to mount something on the uprights of my lift to get some light under it. Not sure if I'll use the same type of LED tubes are something a little more diffused and less harsh.
 
TTMotorsports said:
I had a 4000 sq ft shop 16ft eves and I ran 14 of these. and only had 14 because of the office I didn't need any lights over that area in it. With that many I had dimmers and I only ran them at about 60% power and it was plenty of light. My new 2400 sq ft shop I am going to have 8 of them and I know it will be more light than I will need. Not that cheap but work awesome.

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I got quotes from 2 outfits for a 30x42 14ft ceiling and they are saying 6 lights will be enough. I'm considering just putting 8, more is better anyhow right? 8 would be around $600

The 150w high bay units are 21,000 lumen.

I have a bunch of 4 tube 4 ft LEDs, they are 8500 lumens, 72 watt. So roughly the same power usage for light output.
 
CarterKraft said:
These cords I linked are 10' just cut the end off at the correct length and install these plugs, thats what my dad did in his 8' celing shop so there wasn't any extra wire.

1643298869917.png
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I was even cheaper in my shed. I cut the cord, cut out the extra and then spliced it back together. Didn't have to buy anything, had the butt connectors and heat shrink on hand.
 
Has anyone tried these T5 LED replacement bulbs?

3500 Lumens, 25W, 5000K, 4 ft. LED T5 Tube Lamp, Type B Ballast Bypass, F54T5/HO Replacement, Double-Ended Power, 120-277V, Case of 25, PLT LEDT-10081 | 1000Bulbs.com

Do you have old T5HO fluorescents that hum or flicker? Be free of those issues by retrofitting to LED with these LEDT-10081 T5 tubes from 1000Bulbs.com!
www.1000bulbs.com www.1000bulbs.com

Type B - Ballast Bypass: Type B LED tubes require bypassing (or removing) the ballast and rewiring to line voltage.
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I'm beginning to have lights die in my shop. Figured I could swap these in as the old T5's die.
 
gt1guy said:
Has anyone tried these T5 LED replacement bulbs?

3500 Lumens, 25W, 5000K, 4 ft. LED T5 Tube Lamp, Type B Ballast Bypass, F54T5/HO Replacement, Double-Ended Power, 120-277V, Case of 25, PLT LEDT-10081 | 1000Bulbs.com

Do you have old T5HO fluorescents that hum or flicker? Be free of those issues by retrofitting to LED with these LEDT-10081 T5 tubes from 1000Bulbs.com!
www.1000bulbs.com www.1000bulbs.com




I'm beginning to have lights die in my shop. Figured I could swap these in as the old T5's die.
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I had them at my old place. They worked great. Took maybe 5 minutes per light to delete the ballast and drop them in.
 
I had LED replacements in my old garage at my house. Worked good and same took about 5 min to delete the ballast and they were much brighter as well.
 
Not T5s, but I replaced my T12s with ballast delete LEDs about two years ago. They're working well.

img_4803edit-jpg.443245
img_4803edit-jpg.443245


They're 8' and replace T12 HO units - left is an old T12 HO and right is the new LED.
 
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gt1guy said:
Has anyone tried these T5 LED replacement bulbs?

3500 Lumens, 25W, 5000K, 4 ft. LED T5 Tube Lamp, Type B Ballast Bypass, F54T5/HO Replacement, Double-Ended Power, 120-277V, Case of 25, PLT LEDT-10081 | 1000Bulbs.com

Do you have old T5HO fluorescents that hum or flicker? Be free of those issues by retrofitting to LED with these LEDT-10081 T5 tubes from 1000Bulbs.com!
www.1000bulbs.com www.1000bulbs.com

I'm beginning to have lights die in my shop. Figured I could swap these in as the old T5's die.
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Their T8 version is decent, they do not have anything over the glass tube though.
We have used them, I prefer these (for T8s) as they are cheaper ($5.49/each), universal and have a shatterproof outer cover on the tube: https://www.amazon.com/Parmida-LED-Single-Ended-Double-Ended-Shatterproof/dp/B01BW516B8/

Aaron Z
 
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Nobody has said they suck yet, so that's a good sign.:smokin:

Brighter is always welcome. I hate shadows in the shop.

I like the idea of just being able to swap them out over time. I have 160 T5 bulbs in my shop.
 
gt1guy said:
Nobody has said they suck yet, so that's a good sign.:smokin:

Brighter is always welcome. I hate shadows in the shop.

I like the idea of just being able to swap them out over time. I have 160 T5 bulbs in my shop.
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Missed that they were T5 rather than T8, no experience with their T5 bulbs, the only T5 bulbs we had at work were on 480V and got swapped to 208V and replaced with 200W UFO fixtures.
We redid the shop at work with the 5000k T8 PLT bulbs from 1000bulbs 4-6 years back and they have held up well so I would have no qualms about going with PLT.

I would get the 5000K vs the 3500K unless you like "warm white" light.

For the T8 version, the PLT ones came in a "cardboard" (paper with a flat layer and a corrugated layer) sleeve in a box so if they got hit on the side in transit they will snap.

The Parmida ones came with a foam insert for each layer that the bulbs sit into and they hold up better to the "kind and gentle" handling that packages receive in transit these days, but as long as you inspect them when they arrive, that is the seller's problem..

Aaron Z
 
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