What's new
By:
Filters

Shop and Tools: Tips and Tricks

IowaOffRoad said:
A special tape that is tough but only sticks to itself... barely.:flipoff2:

Gorilla tape is trash. I've been suckered into buying it too much. Want good 'Duct tape'? Go get some from an HVAC/plumbing contractor. There is a 'good' commercial version of the traditional duct tape. Stuff that's tough, sticks well, and tears by hand. Gorilla tape is only one of those three.
Click to expand...
Really? You don’t like gorilla tape. I use it exclusively along the edges of my sluice mats to seal tight in the box. Shit sicks like a son of a bitch to the rubber mat.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Really? You don’t like gorilla tape. I use it exclusively along the edges of my sluice mats to seal tight in the box. Shit sicks like a son of a bitch to the rubber mat.
Click to expand...
Maybe they make it better in Cheezeland? Dunno, I've been highly disappointed in it. IF you clean the fuck outta the surface you stick it to and it's perfectly dry and smooth, I can get it to stick. OG duct tape gives zero fucks about prepped surfaces:smokin:
 
_ogre said:
OK... What the fuck is Gorilla tape? I always figured it was name brand duct tape, like Duck tape. I suspect it is different. I use Gorilla glue, it's just generic name brand polyurethane glue
Click to expand...

Gorilla Tape is the brand, and their "duct tape" is double thick with a very thick and sticky adhesive. I use it for tons of shit. Granted it probably has some limitations or incompatible surfaces but it works great for all my needs. I clean the surface with isopropyl beforehand if I want a long-term application.

It's nice for wrapping inner beads on wheels to keep tires on them too.

PXL_20220802_025137398.jpg
PXL_20220802_025119571.jpg
PXL_20220802_025109021.jpg
 
Yotota said:
Gorilla Tape is the brand, and their "duct tape" is double thick with a very thick and sticky adhesive. I use it for tons of shit. Granted it probably has some limitations or incompatible surfaces but it works great for all my needs. I clean the surface with isopropyl beforehand if I want a long-term application.

It's nice for wrapping inner beads on wheels to keep tires on them too.

PXL_20220802_025137398.jpg
PXL_20220802_025119571.jpg
PXL_20220802_025109021.jpg
Click to expand...
, That’s the shit I hate:laughing: Glad it works for you though, can’t argue with your own experience.
 
couple pieces of it have been on the headache rack of my truck for a couple months
just stuck them there absentmindedly, still there...
 
IowaOffRoad said:
, That’s the shit I hate:laughing: Glad it works for you though, can’t argue with your own experience.
Click to expand...

Under what uses/conditions has it not worked for you?

It's definitely not a replacement for traditional duct tape. Especially for actual ducting. It's too damn thick and is terrible to tear, the adhesive is different, and it's expensive per foot. But for certain uses I love it. Adding a wear or reinforcement layer, stick-on edge trim, light duty gap sealing, etc.
 
Yotota said:
Under what uses/conditions has it not worked for you?

It's definitely not a replacement for traditional duct tape. Especially for actual ducting. It's too damn thick and is terrible to tear, the adhesive is different, and it's expensive per foot. But for certain uses I love it. Adding a wear or reinforcement layer, stick-on edge trim, light duty gap sealing, etc.
Click to expand...
When I'm using "duct tape" it's typically as a last resort for a trail repair or something of that nature. Not using it for duct work usually. The adhesive is my biggest bitch. Where typical 'good grade' duct tape will stick to most anything for a while the adhesive on Gorilla tape seems to take a super-clean and prepped surface. It also doesn't even adhere to itself as good as normal duct tape, and it tears like shit. I also don't like how the adhesive handles sun and moisture. It deteriorates into a goopy mess but also won't go away with brake clean or acetone if you do finally get it to stick. It is thick, but doesn't seem to have the shear strength that it's thickness would indicate. It doesn't like extreme temperatures (gloopy and sticky when it gets above 90F and won't unroll/sticks to nothing if the temp is below 40F). It doesn't keep very well in the toolbox or cab of the truck, won't come off the roll or the adhesive looses its shit pretty soon after it's rolling around the truck cab. It also doesn't conform to shit you put it on very well. Yes, I know it is not meant to be a 'duct tape' replacement, but I haven't found an application yet that I would prefer it to practically anything else. A roll of 3M electrical tape, a roll of filament shipping tape, and a roll of commercial style duct tape is all you need IMO. Any of them by themselves is preferable to Gorilla tape, and you can buy all 3 for less than one roll of Gorilla tape.

Again, if it works for you and your applications:beer:. I hate the stuff. Unfortunately many places you go where you need tape "RIGHT NOW" seem to stock Gorilla tape over almost anything else. I will say that I'll buy that vs. Dollar General/Walmart brand/whatever the fuck the gas station has which is how I find myself buying a roll of it about every 18 months. :laughing:
 
Put me in the not understanding the love of Gorilla Tape camp...I've never had it actually stick to anything worth a damn.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Really? You don’t like gorilla tape. I use it exclusively along the edges of my sluice mats to seal tight in the box. Shit sicks like a son of a bitch to the rubber mat.
Click to expand...

Literally use it for the same thing, and it does indeed work like a champ! Granted the mats aren't in this photo.

20210718_184433.jpg
 
i hate duct tape, the adhesive residue left behind and generally falling apart over time.

all i use anymore is polyethylene tape. and i use for everything, the only other tape i keep is painters, and electrical tape. if duct tape find its way here it gets thrown in the trash.

the PE tape comes in different amounts of width and stickyness. 4 and 6" stuff is great for tenting off work areas. and 2" is the go to for mast anything else.

i buy it buy the case;

 
[486] said:
couple pieces of it have been on the headache rack of my truck for a couple months
just stuck them there absentmindedly, still there...
Click to expand...
i was disassembling something a couple months ago and on it was some 5yr old gorilla tape that was still sticking and not shredded into crap, i was impressed
 
tracyb said:
i hate duct tape, the adhesive residue left behind and generally falling apart over time.

all i use anymore is polyethylene tape. and i use for everything, the only other tape i keep is painters, and electrical tape. if duct tape find its way here it gets thrown in the trash.

the PE tape comes in different amounts of width and stickyness. 4 and 6" stuff is great for tenting off work areas. and 2" is the go to for mast anything else.

i buy it buy the case;

Click to expand...

Interesting.....

I'll have to snag a roll of that to try. Is it stretchy?
 
Yotota said:
Interesting.....

I'll have to snag a roll of that to try. Is it stretchy?
Click to expand...
its got some stretch to it. not like electrical tape strechy, but you can wrap stuff realy tight with it. it comes in different thickness, the stuff i linked is on the thinner side so it strectes more.

you've probably seen boats that have been shrink wrapped? the tape they use for shrinkwrapping is the same stuff. just a little thicker and usually a wide roll. sticks the wrap to the boat and doesn't leave any residue when it time to un wrap it.
 
is that that "pressure sensitive vapor barrier tape"

I don't like how difficult it is to tear, it's like working with clear packaging tape
 
_ogre said:
Same here. Never use anything but 00 and could cut a grind free bevel on sch 40 pipe. Can't say I've ever seen a #4 tip.
Click to expand...

Try cutting 2 inch plate. It's doable with a #3 but it's a massive pain in the ass. Shoot even 1/2 inch is better with a #4 (not quite as clean but quality is in the hands of the torch holder)

Going back to duct tape when I worked for the haliban they sent us Nashua tape and as much as I hate duct tape it worked better than anything else I've seen.
 
speed bump said:
Try cutting 2 inch plate. It's doable with a #3 but it's a massive pain in the ass. Shoot even 1/2 inch is better with a #4 (not quite as clean but quality is in the hands of the torch holder)

Going back to duct tape when I worked for the haliban they sent us Nashua tape and as much as I hate duct tape it worked better than anything else I've seen.
Click to expand...
Lol all my torches have a 3 or 4 in them. Anything that needs thin cutting the plasma cutters get busted out .
 
cutting torch tip size is only the center oxygen jet
"heavy preheat" will have larger preheat holes, but we aren't talking aboot that

There's a lotta stuff that a really big one is good for, it'll naturally punch a wider kerf (good if you're preheating way too much and getting the shit welding back together), if you dial the pressure way back (like 10 psi on the oxygen) it is pretty nice for depth control in gouging or bolt burning

I tend toward the smaller tips but I use my torch on a lot of very thin stuff.
You can get it to punch through thicker stuff than it is technically rated for with higher pressure (like 80 psi), and it seems to blow the shit outta the way better because of the higher velocity.

Lots of people are just dead set on being terrified of trying different pressure settings, but they ain't gonna bite you.
 
speed bump said:
Try cutting 2 inch plate. It's doable with a #3 but it's a massive pain in the ass. Shoot even 1/2 inch is better with a #4 (not quite as clean but quality is in the hands of the torch holder)

Going back to duct tape when I worked for the haliban they sent us Nashua tape and as much as I hate duct tape it worked better than anything else I've seen.
Click to expand...
The place I exchanged my co2 tank, also rebuilds torches. They had a couple rebuilt that were 4ft long and one that had to be 8ft long. I asked about it, I got an eye roll, said that they tried talking him out of it :shaking:
Spent a lot of time in refineries, chem plants and boiler rooms. Not to much steel over ⅜" anywhere
 
_ogre said:
The place I exchanged my co2 tank, also rebuilds torches. They had a couple rebuilt that were 4ft long and one that had to be 8ft long. I asked about it, I got an eye roll, said that they tried talking him out of it :shaking:
Spent a lot of time in refineries, chem plants and boiler rooms. Not to much steel over ⅜" anywhere
Click to expand...

4 ft torches get a lot of use around cement plants and mines. I can think of a few times when I wish we had an 8 ft torch. Reaching into a 500 degree cooler or a up a bucket elevator to cut out a piece of broken metal holding it up is nerve wracking. Had one about 2 years ago where we had a 4 ft torch on a 10 ft pipe and could just barely get it. That's where that #4 tip is nice, can't see it, well pre heat until you see a glow and go to town.

If you are working on something you can stand by then the 4 ft torch let's you stand up and cut (we do this with a scarfing tip a lot).
 
The polarity tab on 2 wire grinder cords pisses me off because I can't ever remember which way it faces...

I did this on another cord and it works awesome to rapidly allow my brain to orient the 2 conductor cords.

20220814_153645.jpg
 
[486] said:
There's a lotta stuff that a really big one is good for, it'll naturally punch a wider kerf (good if you're preheating way too much and getting the shit welding back together), if you dial the pressure way back (like 10 psi on the oxygen) it is pretty nice for depth control in gouging or bolt burning
Click to expand...

Funny.. I crank the oxygen up to 75ish when needed. But never thought about dropping the pressure that low. Gonna have to try that
 
you will get shit in the center hole a little more often, but it makes more of a gentle crater than a punched hole, if that makes sense.
 
When the base of your Hobo Freight fan falls apart and you've got a GM rally wheel laying around. Won't fall apart again but hopefully there aren't any flat tires in its future.
 

Attachments

  • 20220828_162642.jpg
    20220828_162642.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 60
Needed a outlet for my sewing light on the chop saw, of course I had to overkill it and waste a few hours.
Side bonus I learned after putting the wood miter saw on the stand is I can plug the miter saw into the chop saw and keep a outlet free on my 4 way extension cord.



20220828_140527.jpg


20220828_140535.jpg

Here's the sewing lights, they kick ass. Magnetic base flex arm. I put on on the drill press too but it's hard wired in. Sewing Machine Light (36LEDs) 8Watt Gooseneck Work Light with Magnetic Mounting Base, White Soft Light for Lathes, Drill Presses, Workbenches (2PACK) https://a.co/1zpbIOJ
 
Whenever I see those clip on lamps with the flexy neck at a yard sale or thrift store I grab them. They make amazing task lighting and the older ones that are rated for "60W max" can really throw out a lot of light when you throw a "250W equivalent" LED flood that draws 60W in them. :laughing:
 
Last edited:
A tip from a co-worker, when removing an O2 sensor, once it starts to bind on the carbon inside as you take it out, put a couple drops of brake fluid on the threads, run it in until it's snug and back it out again.

Did that tonight and it went from feeling like it was going to strip the threads, to coming out by hand.

Aaron Z
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh