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Shop and Tools: Tips and Tricks

Resetting the steering box meshload in the Pooperdoodie requires an in-lb torque wrench that measures from zero to 20in-lb somewhat accurately. None of mine went that low.

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Yotota said:
Resetting the steering box meshload in the Pooperdoodie requires an in-lb torque wrench that measures from zero to 20in-lb somewhat accurately. None of mine went that low.

PXL_20221009_181903242.jpg
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so did you reduce the 20 in-lb by the length of the ratchet handle?
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
I've seen this cloth fabric drill bit trick on a couple videos recently.

This video freaks me out with high speed drill press drilling large holes in sheet metal held by hand. Seems to work though
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I skipped over this when you posted it. This is a game changer and fucking amazing👍
 
IowaOffRoad said:
A special tape that is tough but only sticks to itself... barely.:flipoff2:

Gorilla tape is trash. I've been suckered into buying it too much. Want good 'Duct tape'? Go get some from an HVAC/plumbing contractor. There is a 'good' commercial version of the traditional duct tape. Stuff that's tough, sticks well, and tears by hand. Gorilla tape is only one of those three.
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Polyken 236 is my go-to duct tape...used hundreds of rolls of the shit when I did HVAC. Better than anything Home Depot or Lowes has.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
I've seen this cloth fabric drill bit trick on a couple videos recently.

This video freaks me out with high speed drill press drilling large holes in sheet metal held by hand. Seems to work though.

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OK i had to try this out.

i didnt have any cloth that looked like what he had so i just grabbed some shit from around the shop.
Bottom to top: No cloth. Microfiber towel. Blue shop towel. Scotch bright. It works but I'm still not trusting it without a glove or vice grip. Blue Shop Towel and Scotch Bright performed best. Microfiber collected chips well so mental note next time you don't want chips to get in somewhere.

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Would like to try some thicker cloth like he had. Might hit up the thrift store for a bunch of random shirts/pants/pillow cases/ leather vest.
 
gozuki said:
Saw it, hard pass. I've been spanked by the flinging-material-off-the-drillpress game.
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The guy in the video is a madman, but that doesn't mean the "trick" is useless. Drilling thin shit can be a pain in the ass, if this helps then it's awesome.

I'm completely with you though, and I won't be handbombing razor sharp either.
 
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Muckin_Slusher said:
The guy in the video is a madman, but that doesn't mean the "trick" is useless. Drilling thin shit can be a pain in the ass, if this helps then it's awesome.

I'm completely with you thought, and I won't be handbombing razor sharp either.
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Hell, if the fabric makes a round hole in sheet metal,
The "trick" is worth it's weight in platinum :lmao:
 
I drilled a couple holes in the pad on my transmission jack that line up with the studs on the transmission mount. Raise the jack up, run the nuts on snug, and the tranny is secure on the jack.
jack saddle.jpg

It holds the transmission and transfer case solid, and it doesn't feel like you are risking life and limb when pulling a trans.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
bit of a stretch on the tips and tricks theme. Just saw a trailer building facility in a youtube vid.

Overhead slung mig welders. Obviously not for everyone, but looks damn convenient.

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They's the shit. Had dem where I used to work. If you've got lot's of stuff to build that doesn't fit on a 3x4 welding table you could do worse than find a used industrial rig or build your own.
I will say that with a bit of work you can make a remote wire feeder work on a standard mig, or even an arc welder power supply if you'd like. I'd like to pick up a good LN7 Lincoln wire feeder and build a jib in the shop just for welding.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
bit of a stretch on the tips and tricks theme.

Overhead slung mig welders. Obviously not for everyone, but looks damn convenient.
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I have a hand torch on my little Plasma table, but like to use my Plasma occasionally for other things in the shop. I ordered a 50' lead when I upgraded the torch to the newer system (Hypertherm stopped supporting the old G series stuff) and so I made this gantry that swings and allows me to feed the torch lead through it. I can reach over the press and other stuff that are kind of in the way and get to the post lift or even outside the shop door which is not quite seen to the left. I picked up an old sign from the interior of the Arlington Memorial Bridge during an inspection back around 2013 before they rehabbed it and it says "Danger 4000 Volts". Its a good test of who walks in the shop and knows what they are looking at vs the people that freak out and don't go near it. 8 foot ladder for scale. The shelving is from a Bed Bath and Beyond that closed; it was some of their storeroom shelving.

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Muckin_Slusher said:
I've done a handful of redecked trailers with 1/4 inch or 5/16 floor screws.

Next time I do I'm fuckin' building this jig. Old fat me hurts more than young fat me.

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jigs are the shit:grinpimp:

I have gone to full floating decks
stick the ends under the lip in the front, and flat bar across the back. Not one screw in the whole deck

but I live where it is wet, and the woods stats pretty tight. I know it isn't for everyone, but that is how I do it.

and if you need to replace the deck, or a single board, you just pop them off, and throw it back down
 
Thats a better idea than mine. I turned the threads off so they would slip in because when I didnt it made screwing them out a pain in the ass. Course my projects seem to always be in the vehicle so I dont know if ai could always get a screwdriver on them either.
 
Stuck said:
Thats a better idea than mine. I turned the threads off so they would slip in because when I didnt it made screwing them out a pain in the ass. Course my projects seem to always be in the vehicle so I dont know if ai could always get a screwdriver on them either.
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These are all used in on vehicle service. The holes in the end of the sm 465 to bellhousing set are to unscrew them with a pick or awl.
 
Damnit, that's smart. Could have totally used them over the weekend trying to bell up my trans and t-case. All my Nissans use the same size threads for both the trans and t-case so I'd only need to make a couple. :idea:
 
I just found my new favorite flap wheel.

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If you need to blend or get right up to an edge, these things rock.

They either came from Lehigh Valley or Roark. I'll have to check the box tomorrow.


Edit: Checked the box and they did come from Roark
 
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Finally converted my old drop light reel to 4 gang. My other 4 gang cord gets dropped all the time because there isn't a way to hang it so on this one I tried to solve that.

It's a generic wood screw style hook. I cut the threads off and welded a nut up on the shank. Drilled a hole in the center knockout and tack welded it all the way around. Welded another nut on the inside to make a swivel.

I might have to add this to the old 4 gang cord.
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If you need to grind aluminum or cut it with a zip disc, buy some Boelube. Spin your grinder up, hit the wheel on the lube, and aluminum won't stick to the wheel.
You will have to re-apply pretty often, but it makes a huge difference in material removal and heat build up.
I use flapper wheels, I am not sure how it works on hard wheels.
I just grind the plastic tube down as I use it.
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We have Tapmatic Edge lube and it's a game changer for grinding aluminum for sure! I'll have to try the Boeing stuff, their tapping paste rocks.
 
I have a few grinding wheels made for aluminum... Probably came from some auction. Never have tried them, I just usually use what is already in the grinder, and hardly ever mess with aluminum anyhow.
 
billybob_81067 said:
I have a few grinding wheels made for aluminum... Probably came from some auction. Never have tried them, I just usually use what is already in the grinder, and hardly ever mess with aluminum anyhow.
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They work great in aluminum. They're designed to wear down extra fast, so I guess the aluminum doesn't get a chance to gum them up.

Of course I'm not the one buying them...
 
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