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Shop and Tools: Tips and Tricks

If I cant jog my memory today Ill look tomorrow and give you the name of the new DRO we just got.

It was cheap-$300-400ish for the XY bridgeport unit and surprisingly good for the cost.

If the total length is within the range of whatever the largest measuring devise you have, measure with that until youre within the range of your indicator, then switch to that for the last - .500 .

Im talking Vernier's, not a tape measure.
$500 is about what I'm gonna spend for a unit that does the whole lathe. Like I said, I'm just looking for a sub-$50 interim solution. I like the idea of making dials.
 
Not my trick, but was just posted on GJ. I got an entire drawer full of these things.

I believe this trick also works for air fittings on air tools...

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Awesome idea for the vise grips. I will make one on my cnc plasma so if I want the one in the middle I won't have to slide them all off to get it.
 
Awesome idea for the vise grips. I will make one on my cnc plasma so if I want the one in the middle I won't have to slide them all off to get it.
Yes, it was mentioned on GJ that this only works "when they're all the same" like near the welding bench with 30 pairs of clamps.

For those of us without a CNC plasma, you could just make the slots go into the square tubing sideways (drill two holes that lineup on adjacent corners then connect with a zip disk).
 
Machineshop edge breakers.

They are life-changing. If you've don't have one or never saw one, trust me and buy one. This one was from amazon I think and came with a bunch of spare blades in the handle. Cheap as dirt and I still haven't broken or dulled the first blade.

You just run it around holes with sharp edges and it shaves a nice chamfer for you, instantly. Works on sheet metal as well as thicker stuff like the ends of tubing.

GOPR0519.jpg
GOPR0520.jpg
 
Machineshop edge breakers.

They are life-changing. If you've don't have one or never saw one, trust me and buy one. This one was from amazon I think and came with a bunch of spare blades in the handle. Cheap as dirt and I still haven't broken or dulled the first blade.

You just run it around holes with sharp edges and it shaves a nice chamfer for you, instantly. Works on sheet metal as well as thicker stuff like the ends of tubing.

GOPR0519.jpg
GOPR0520.jpg

Deburring tool for the muthafuckin win. I can't believe I went so many years without one.
 
Bet you didn't know your drill press was a mill.

Well it's a really shitty mill but actually worked pretty good for dialing in intake ports :laughing:
I have a chinese cross slide vice on the drill press. Works ok on aluminum with end mills, good enough for a lower receiver or two. The damn chuck dropped out of it's taper and I had to put a tack weld on it though. :homer:
The full Noga set kicks ass too
I dropped the pointy cone one and broke it:mad3: The hook shaped ones are great for getting the back side of a hole that you can't reach deburred, like in a piece of tubing.
 
Machineshop edge breakers.

They are life-changing. If you've don't have one or never saw one, trust me and buy one. This one was from amazon I think and came with a bunch of spare blades in the handle. Cheap as dirt and I still haven't broken or dulled the first blade.

You just run it around holes with sharp edges and it shaves a nice chamfer for you, instantly. Works on sheet metal as well as thicker stuff like the ends of tubing.

GOPR0519.jpg
GOPR0520.jpg
I have one of these and love it to deburr the inside of stuff i machine on my lathe.

Does anyone know of an item like this that deburr the outside of tubing regardless of size?
 
I have one of these and love it to deburr the inside of stuff i machine on my lathe.

Does anyone know of an item like this that deburr the outside of tubing regardless of size?
What thickness? They make ones for EMT that go in a drill and will deburr the inside and outside.

Aaron Z
 
What thickness? They make ones for EMT that go in a drill and will deburr the inside and outside.

Aaron Z
I'm usually doing .120 or .250 bushing sleeves and right now use my flap disc on the grinder and hit the edge while the lathe is spinning but would rather not have to bring that over and plug it in or use my cordless grinder for that.
 
I'm usually doing .120 or .250 bushing sleeves and right now use my flap disc on the grinder and hit the edge while the lathe is spinning but would rather not have to bring that over and plug it in or use my cordless grinder for that.
Shouldn't be using abrasives near the lathe.

Can't you just deburr inside/outside with a tool in the toolpost like everyone else?
 
or hell even a flat file

actually that reminds me, the sharp side of the radius on the tang of a flat file makes a pretty good ID burr knife, if you've misplaced the one posted earlier ITT
 
Both above mentioned methods are standard procedure depending on the job.

Always have a handle on your file and be careful reaching over the chuck to do this.
 
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I'm usually doing .120 or .250 bushing sleeves and right now use my flap disc on the grinder and hit the edge while the lathe is spinning but would rather not have to bring that over and plug it in or use my cordless grinder for that.
If it's in the lathe can you not just lightly hit it with a chamfer tool?
 
Stop using the cheese-grade drill bit in your hole saws, stuff a 1/4 inch grade 8 bolt in there instead. It won't bend at the first bindup.

Also, even if you keep the drill bit in the center of the hole saw, don't make your pilot hole with the saw attached. When the pilot bit breaks through and you smash the saw against whatever you're drilling, it'll fuck-off sidewards and wreck shit. (figured this one out a looooooong time ago, but still enjoy laughing at other people when they fuck up).

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Ibdo the same thing. Drill a 1/4" hole with drill then use my hole saw with a 1/4" bolt in the middle and it prevents it from moving as the center hole opens up a little bit with a drill bit
 
Stop using the cheese-grade drill bit in your hole saws, stuff a 1/4 inch grade 8 bolt in there instead. It won't bend at the first bindup.

Also, even if you keep the drill bit in the center of the hole saw, don't make your pilot hole with the saw attached. When the pilot bit breaks through and you smash the saw against whatever you're drilling, it'll fuck-off sidewards and wreck shit. (figured this one out a looooooong time ago, but still enjoy laughing at other people when they fuck up).

P6100708.jpg

You are a MF genius, I'm grabbing some 1/4" grade 8's this weekend to do this.
 
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