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Shop and Tools: Tips and Tricks

Roll tap, moly d lube, and a carbide drill for a backup plan
 
Well, about 2 minutes of google searching says that form tapping is better for copper than cutting threads.

Where I work, that kind of work would be done in the machine shop, by machinists. That's why I assumed your gender er I mean profession :flipoff2:
Toolmaker to be precise.:flipoff2: We dont even have a machine shop anymore.

I am the goto guy for shit like this and if I had exotic (Please...dont get me started...) shit like form taps....

As above, sulphurated oil (meant for god knows what) was the best I could find. My hands will stink for days.

Obviously buying tooling wasnt an option (Time) and we had 1300 people going who were going to be out of work for a day if this wasnt able to be done.

First three holes sucked ASS as even though I went .005 over on the drill size, they were closing up on the tap. I pinned them and was able to go .010 over and stay within spec.

This was a grounding lug for a Connential washer our product goes through before brazing. It caught fire due to excess grease and lack of water a few weeks ago and melted the seal to this part and today it shit the bed.

Its all in a day as we never have what we need, just want to vent and hopefully make someone chuckle.:beer:
 
Roll tap, moly d lube, and a carbide drill for a backup plan
Believe it or not we cant have moly-d.

They took away cool-tool, Stainless cutting oil, tapmagic and the other shit I disremember the name of.

They took away all spray paint and spray on DyChem, brush on only.

Plant is in NJ.
 
Found the root of the problem :flipoff2:
dUDE, WE DIDNT EVEN HAVE GUN TAPS UNTIL A COUPLE YEARS AGO.

Fuck, I cant even capslock good.:homer:


We go by two sayings at work:

The beatings will continue until morale improves!

And the old rag, We have done so much for so long with so little...

Interesting side note, 1/3 (statistically) of the people in this country and and 1/2 of all snowmexicans (who have this appliance) trust our equipment to not burn their house down.
 
I've heard that you use cream (as in the milk product) for machining copper.

Dunno, but I'd give it a go for tapping as you can do it near a floor drain
 
One job I worked we did a lot of copper parts. They were tapped and surface ground. We used a 50/50 mix of refined cutting lard and a synthetic coolant. Worked very well, smelled a little funky.
 
One job I worked we did a lot of copper parts. They were tapped and surface ground. We used a 50/50 mix of refined cutting lard and a synthetic coolant. Worked very well, smelled a little funky.

Oh man... I could see that crap going rancid if not swapped out frequently. I shop I worked at ran all canola oil in their machines which got strained and filtered, but rarely disposed of. I don't miss that smell.
 
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A tool I made to do one thing, one day that has really came in handy time again.


My personal shop is like move something to do something. It’s my own organized chaos.

The shop I work in still has molyD as a tapping lube, but cool tool, and spraying dye-Chen blue was never a thing. Brush on was used, but they just announced that a new, water based dye is mandated.
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Those OEM jacks are the shit for all sorts of ghetto projects where you need something to be adjustable.
 
Does anybody else here use toothpaste on little welding burns? I’m always amazed at how many people have NEVER heard of that as long as it’s been around..

No, but now I'm going to throw one of those little travel tubes in the welding toolbox and try it.
 
9c946dff-4a93-43f4-b3bf-e1fba7799559-jpeg.jpg

A tool I made to do one thing, one day that has really came in handy time again.

Those OEM jacks are the shit for all sorts of ghetto projects where you need something to be adjustable.


90's Nissan 4x4's came with these excellent little screw jacks. Most of the pick n' pulls around here pull them before they go out to the yard, but every now and then I find one. I think I have 5 or 6 by now. :laughing: The OEM shaft is like 3/8" so you can just chuck it in a drill and spin up the jack.

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If you do the socket trick, an old, cheap universal is even better than a socket.
 
If anyone knows a good ghetto solution for measuring travel on a machine that doesn't have markings on the handles now would be a good time. I can do half an inch at a time with a dial indicator but squaring that up gets old quick.
90's Nissan 4x4's came with these excellent little screw jacks. Most of the pick n' pulls around here pull them before they go out to the yard, but every now and then I find one. I think I have 5 or 6 by now. :laughing: The OEM shaft is like 3/8" so you can just chuck it in a drill and spin up the jack.

If you do the socket trick, an old, cheap universal is even better than a socket.
Yeah the Nissan one is my favorite for actual jack use since it has a nice base. I have a couple of them but they live in vehicles for that reason. The stamped style ones lend themselves better to bolting/welding to other shit. Bolt them to old brake rotors/drums and they make some great light duty jack stands.
 
If anyone knows a good ghetto solution for measuring travel on a machine that doesn't have markings on the handles now would be a good time. I can do half an inch at a time with a dial indicator but squaring that up gets old quick.
Longer travel dial indicator?

For most of what I do on my lathe, a 3" dial indicator would mean I don't have to look at the dials.
 
If anyone knows a good ghetto solution for measuring travel on a machine that doesn't have markings on the handles now would be a good time. I can do half an inch at a time with a dial indicator but squaring that up gets old quick.

Trav-a-dial? Keep an eye on ebay....I think I picked mine up for $120-ish.

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Watch this one. $125, 3 days to go with no current bids.
 
If anyone knows a good ghetto solution for measuring travel on a machine that doesn't have markings on the handles now would be a good time. I can do half an inch at a time with a dial indicator but squaring that up gets old quick.

Yeah the Nissan one is my favorite for actual jack use since it has a nice base. I have a couple of them but they live in vehicles for that reason. The stamped style ones lend themselves better to bolting/welding to other shit. Bolt them to old brake rotors/drums and they make some great light duty jack stands.
they sell cheap digital readouts that can be bolted to the carriage & bed. I have them on my lathe
 
The cheapo 2" dial indicator seems to be the way to go. This is just a stopgap until I get a DRO.
Trav-a-dial? Keep an eye on ebay....I think I picked mine up for $120-ish.
A DRO setup is like $500 (mag tape and encoders a reputable manufactuer, Chinese digital display). If I'm gonna spend $100+ I'll just wait a month and buy the DRO

they sell cheap digital readouts
They stop being cheap when you need them to be 8ft long.
 
The cheapo 2" dial indicator seems to be the way to go. This is just a stopgap until I get a DRO.

A DRO setup is like $500 (mag tape and encoders a reputable manufactuer, Chinese digital display). If I'm gonna spend $100+ I'll just wait a month and buy the DRO


They stop being cheap when you need them to be 8ft long.
Are you constantly using the whole 8 feet of bed? how much precision are you looking for?
 
Trav-a-dial? Keep an eye on ebay....I think I picked mine up for $120-ish.

1621274223732.png


Watch this one. $125, 3 days to go with no current bids.
Getting harder to find: Southwestern Industries made those, they've moved on to making CNC's and such and discontinued those and all the parts. I've been scrapping for repair parts on those for a few years now.
 
Are you constantly using the whole 8 feet of bed? how much precision are you looking for?
Well if I'm gonna spend the money to slap a DRO on it I'm not gonna settls for only being able to use the DRO in certain points on the bed. Besides, with a mag tape DRO all the money is tied up in the reader head. The difference between 4ft and 8ft is like $30 in tape and $30 in support channel.

I have no delusions about being able to do sub-thou work but I want the DRO to be able to do sub-though. I figure I want to be able to measure one order of magnitude better than what I can actually hit.
 
If anyone knows a good ghetto solution for measuring travel on a machine that doesn't have markings on the handles now would be a good time. I can do half an inch at a time with a dial indicator but squaring that up gets old quick.
make some fuckin' dials?
ain't hard to brain out the pitch of the screw, or measure out the travel per turn on the carriage (though carriage dials always seem to be a little bit wonky)
 
make some fuckin' dials?
ain't hard to brain out the pitch of the screw, or measure out the travel per turn on the carriage (though carriage dials always seem to be a little bit wonky)
That's not a bad idea actually. Make some scribe marks on the handle sleeve or whatever every 5 thou on the cross slide and compound, that should be plenty to get you in the neighborhood.
 
Well if I'm gonna spend the money to slap a DRO on it I'm not gonna settls for only being able to use the DRO in certain points on the bed. Besides, with a mag tape DRO all the money is tied up in the reader head. The difference between 4ft and 8ft is like $30 in tape and $30 in support channel.

I have no delusions about being able to do sub-thou work but I want the DRO to be able to do sub-though. I figure I want to be able to measure one order of magnitude better than what I can actually hit.
If I cant jog my memory today Ill look tomorrow and give you the name of the new DRO we just got.

It was cheap-$300-400ish for the XY bridgeport unit and surprisingly good for the cost.

If the total length is within the range of whatever the largest measuring devise you have, measure with that until youre within the range of your indicator, then switch to that for the last - .500 .

Im talking Vernier's, not a tape measure.
 
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