skyhiranger
Well-known member
I think it is an 8” pipe cap that works on zuk axles.
Cut the lip down so it fits tighter to the axle.
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Sam I am
- Thread starter YotaAtieToo
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I think it is an 8” pipe cap that works on zuk axles.
Cut the lip down so it fits tighter to the axle.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
It's alive!
Seemed like every step took forever since I needed to fix things I've put off. Just dumb stuff like go to bolt driveshaft to diff, then realize the tcase has 2 broken mounts, then pull tcase because I remembered the hi/low detent spring is weak, but the spine needs to come off to get to it, also while pulling tcase remember that I need to bend shifter to clear bench seat..... Ect
Went for a quick spin since it's getting late, so far the 4.88s seem awesome. Much easier to get moving and lowrange seems about perfect, doesn't want to stall at an idle even pushing pretty hard on the brakes.
Seemed like every step took forever since I needed to fix things I've put off. Just dumb stuff like go to bolt driveshaft to diff, then realize the tcase has 2 broken mounts, then pull tcase because I remembered the hi/low detent spring is weak, but the spine needs to come off to get to it, also while pulling tcase remember that I need to bend shifter to clear bench seat..... Ect
Went for a quick spin since it's getting late, so far the 4.88s seem awesome. Much easier to get moving and lowrange seems about perfect, doesn't want to stall at an idle even pushing pretty hard on the brakes.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Drove it up the highway this morning. Still slow but gearing seems pretty good. 60 in 5th (down hill) is about 3300.
Also pretty happy with the rear leafs, sits pretty level and rides a bit better. I'm sure some decent shocks f&r would be a huge improvement.
but gearing seems pretty good. 60 in 5th (down hill) is about 3300.Also pretty happy with the rear leafs, sits pretty level and rides a bit better. I'm sure some decent shocks f&r would be a huge improvement.
DannyK
Well-known member
I bashed my rear diff so many times the ring gear ground a hole through it and it started leaking gear oil. I bought a new housing and put one of these on it.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Ya, I didn't realize the samurai diff housing was literally the same thickness as the body, burned through a few times welding some armor on.
Toyota axles are thin, but like 1/8" thin, not 18g thin
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
That looks awesome with those giant tires on it. Mini monster truck.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
That looks awesome with those giant tires on it. Mini monster truck.
Ya, it's pretty silly looking, definitely looks like a kids toy. Might try a snow run or 2 before they come off for the sxs tires.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Only a true zuk guy would say $42 for a laser cut and formed piece of steel is expensive
SKULLYOTA
NOOB
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Only a true zuk guy would say $42 for a laser cut and formed piece of steel is expensive
Well yeah, some of those things are 60-70 without shipping.
So that’s why I ordered the 8” pipe cap which can make two diff armors for $41 shipped
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Well yeah, some of those things are 60-70 without shipping.
So that’s why I ordered the 8” pipe cap which can make two diff armors for $41 shipped
I'll one up you and just grab chunks of rusty scrap from under the bench to weld and hammer to shape for $free.99
arse_sidewards
Contrary to my ass
Stainless for bling factor. Cast iron to show off how good a welder you are.Dollar store frying pans are probably thicker metal than a samurai axle lol. Buy one and cut in half for 2 axle skids
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YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
So the weather has been typical pnw spring for a few weeks now. Sun and 70 one day, drizzle and 50 the next. I pulled the sides off this smittybuilt top a while back, but left the top on. Today I pulled the bow off and it fits the cage really well. Pretty nice top for like $150.
Only reason it's lumpy is because of this mesh bag thing the wife got me has towels stuffed in it. Fits the back of the cage perfect.
Only reason it's lumpy is because of this mesh bag thing the wife got me has towels stuffed in it. Fits the back of the cage perfect.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Been driving this every day when it's not raining.
Earlier this year, I put in a little sxs battery a while back as an experiment and kinda forgot about it. It's been working perfectly fine and is maybe 1/3rd the wieght of a normal big battery.
Earlier this year, I put in a little sxs battery a while back as an experiment and kinda forgot about it. It's been working perfectly fine and is maybe 1/3rd the wieght of a normal big battery.
Penetrode Offroad
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- May 20, 2020
- Member Number
- 493
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Probably added 6hp of feel too
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Worked on this a bit today. Had an issue with the alternator being crooked. Switched back to the sxs tires and put the skid plate back on.
Skid plate for bent up pretty bad at Fordyce and hoodoo. Enough that it was pushing the tcase up and broke the passenger side mounts. So I straightened with a 40k lb wheel loader and a big sledge the added a rib across, just some 1 1/2" x 3/16" but should help quite a bit.
It's nice to have regular sized tires on it again, even though they're beat ass sxs tires on homemade bead locks, they still drive nicer than those dumb iroks. Although having had 36s on there now really makes me want to get some 35x10s on it at some point.
Skid plate for bent up pretty bad at Fordyce and hoodoo. Enough that it was pushing the tcase up and broke the passenger side mounts. So I straightened with a 40k lb wheel loader and a big sledge
the added a rib across, just some 1 1/2" x 3/16" but should help quite a bit. It's nice to have regular sized tires on it again, even though they're beat ass sxs tires on homemade bead locks, they still drive nicer than those dumb iroks. Although having had 36s on there now really makes me want to get some 35x10s on it at some point.
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SKULLYOTA
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YotaAtieToo is that Calmini skid only 3/16 or is it thicker?
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
It's 3/16" or possibly whatever the closest sheet guage is, definitely not thicker.
I wouldn't want it thicker, just needs some support for idiots like me who go to Fordyce or hoodoo with like 10" of clearance under it
A few simple crossmembers with a big sheet of uhmw would be ideal if I didn't already have this skid.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
It's 3/16" or possibly whatever the closest sheet guage is, definitely not thicker.
I wouldn't want it thicker, just needs some support for idiots like me who go to Fordyce or hoodoo with like 10" of clearance under it
A few simple crossmembers with a big sheet of uhmw would be ideal if I didn't already have this skid.
HDPE is cheaper. You can get matte/flat black. Like cutting board material.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
We use hdpe pipe at work, and used to use a lot of uhmw at my old work. Hdpe super tough as far as not breaking, but is not as abrasion resistant. Hence why everyone uses uhmw for skid plates.
These guys dive into it more
HDPE skid plate
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
We use hdpe pipe at work, and used to use a lot of uhmw at my old work. Hdpe super tough as far as not breaking, but is not as abrasion resistant. Hence why everyone uses uhmw for skid plates.
These guys dive into it more
HDPE skid plate
www.pirate4x4.com
I guess UHMW has always been about $100+ more than HDPE.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
For a 4x8?
Samurai should only need about 3x4
HDPE may work fine on a lighter rig, but even a 3k lb zuk I feel like it may dig in on sharper rocks.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
It's been hot af lately, so I finally switched over to the shade mesh top. Which also means I can fold the windshield down easily.
Took the boys(5, 6 and 11) and my nieces (12 and 14) to the river, the younger ones still love shifting and the older 3 took turns driving for a bit. The girls did OK for their first time and my oldest is getting pretty good at it.
Took the boys(5, 6 and 11) and my nieces (12 and 14) to the river, the younger ones still love shifting and the older 3 took turns driving for a bit. The girls did OK for their first time and my oldest is getting pretty good at it.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Funny how things come about....
I commented in the zuk for sale/wanted thread about Sami intermediate shafts being semi valuable and hard to find when you need one on Monday. Then Thursday I spit a cap out on the way home from work really glad it didn't come apart and take my foot off. That thing is cooking rpm wise at 55+
Also, Fwiw, it's possible to change it out from the side through this gap, if your lazy to pull the skid. This might be the only time I've pulled that shaft without pulling the tcase.
I commented in the zuk for sale/wanted thread about Sami intermediate shafts being semi valuable and hard to find when you need one on Monday. Then Thursday I spit a cap out on the way home from work
really glad it didn't come apart and take my foot off. That thing is cooking rpm wise at 55+ Also, Fwiw, it's possible to change it out from the side through this gap, if your lazy to pull the skid. This might be the only time I've pulled that shaft without pulling the tcase.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Got another "chase rigs on 42s+" trip for labor day. So I figured rock sliders should happen.
I've always chopped all this wasted space on samurai's, gains like 5" of clearance at the slider, which is very underrated imo.
Did a rough cut with the Sawzall and somehow missed all these wires
Not sure what else to do to it. Nothing is going to make it actually keep up
I've always chopped all this wasted space on samurai's, gains like 5" of clearance at the slider, which is very underrated imo.
Did a rough cut with the Sawzall and somehow missed all these wires
Not sure what else to do to it. Nothing is going to make it actually keep up
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I can never make shit simple, could have just used 188 and, or really 120 wall alone would be fine. Did this instead
Added 1 1/2x3/16 flatbar inside. Welded through 3 1 1/4 holes, then cut slits in the bottom between the holes.
Added 1 1/2x3/16 flatbar inside. Welded through 3 1 1/4 holes, then cut slits in the bottom between the holes.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Big trip didn't work out, but may end up going camping or whatever. Either way, it was a good excuse to knock these out.
I normally do 4 tie ins, but but figured this thing is so small, maybe 3 is enough? Tie ins are 1 1/2" x 120 square.
Rear and middle were easy, just 2 parallel angles. Rear was 15* and middle was 30* rear was able to be welded to body mount, which should help a ton.
Middle was cake. Should have probably fishplated, and should definitely add a gusset to the top of the frame, but was in a hurry.
Front was a slight challenge with the frame angled in, then the body in the way. 30* cut at the frame, then the miter is 30* up.
Then I had to notch it at a compound angle. I have a trick for this which works well but not sure I can describe it easily.
Basically you fit it up at the correct angle with a normal straight cut. Measure the gaps on each corner, mark that to the opposite corner, connect the dots and that's you angle. That's if it's a flat surface you're coming onto. This was on the corner, so I had to mark the bottom plain of the 2x2 onto the tube.
Probably only makes sense in my head, but if anyone is interested, I can do a write with pics, or maybe just make a video. It's a sweet method that take a ton of guessing out of tube fitment and gets you 95% there on the first cut.
I normally do 4 tie ins, but but figured this thing is so small, maybe 3 is enough? Tie ins are 1 1/2" x 120 square.
Rear and middle were easy, just 2 parallel angles. Rear was 15* and middle was 30* rear was able to be welded to body mount, which should help a ton.
Middle was cake. Should have probably fishplated, and should definitely add a gusset to the top of the frame, but was in a hurry.
Front was a slight challenge with the frame angled in, then the body in the way. 30* cut at the frame, then the miter is 30* up.
Then I had to notch it at a compound angle. I have a trick for this which works well but not sure I can describe it easily.
Basically you fit it up at the correct angle with a normal straight cut. Measure the gaps on each corner, mark that to the opposite corner, connect the dots and that's you angle. That's if it's a flat surface you're coming onto. This was on the corner, so I had to mark the bottom plain of the 2x2 onto the tube.
Probably only makes sense in my head, but if anyone is interested, I can do a write with pics, or maybe just make a video. It's a sweet method that take a ton of guessing out of tube fitment and gets you 95% there on the first cut.