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Rudy

My $0.02 on what to change...

The axle side panhard mount can't improve much, it's probably close to the shock at full flex+droop as it is. Not much to improve there. But the frame side could easily move outboard of the frame rail to gain a good 6" of panhard length. Anything will help.

The axle side upper link mount being angled back is a killer for that link length, but it looks like the panhard bar is stopping it from moving forward. What does the frame side mount look like?

As for the lowers... Getting the axle side mounts directly behind the tube will not only help rock clearance, but shorten the links and also make them flatter at ride height. And if the frame side mounts came forward it would help too. The "rule of thumb" for front 3 link is equal length links too and bottom.

But I'm probably not helping as everything looks fully welded out at this point and I'm commenting a month too late. Who determined the link lengths and suspension design?
 
The axle side panhard mount can't improve much, it's probably close to the shock at full flex+droop as it is. Not much to improve there. But the frame side could easily move outboard of the frame rail to gain a good 6" of panhard length. Anything will help.

The axle side upper link mount being angled back is a killer for that link length, but it looks like the panhard bar is stopping it from moving forward. What does the frame side mount look like?

As for the lowers... Getting the axle side mounts directly behind the tube will not only help rock clearance, but shorten the links and also make them flatter at ride height. And if the frame side mounts came forward it would help too. The "rule of thumb" for front 3 link is equal length links too and bottom.

But I'm probably not helping as everything looks fully welded out at this point and I'm commenting a month too late. Who determined the link lengths and suspension design?
where the panhard bar is mounted no it swings with the drag link. if anything it needs to be moved on the axle side witch could be done but yes everything is welded. Have to get pictures of the upper link mount at the frame.

The lowers are angles like that to get 9" of link separation from the upper to lower. Link length was cause of packaging. The transfer case mount is in the way and was told they would be too short if mounted on the front of the t-case mount.
 
where the panhard bar is mounted no it swings with the drag link. if anything it needs to be moved on the axle side witch could be done but yes everything is welded. Have to get pictures of the upper link mount at the frame.

The lowers are angles like that to get 9" of link separation from the upper to lower. Link length was cause of packaging. The transfer case mount is in the way and was told they would be too short if mounted on the front of the t-case mount.

The panhard can shift either way, as long as it is parallel to the drag length in all planes at ride height. Moving the axle mount further out has the exact same effect as moving the frame mount further out the other direction. It could be 3 feet away in any direction as long as it's parallel and equal length it will always remain parallel and function the same.
 
Might as well put up the suspension measurement i do have and get your guys opinions

Tire measures 36"
lower link length 43"
track bar 27"
upper link 31"
upper link mount to lower link mount axle side 9" with adj. to 8-7"
upper link mount to lower link mount frame side 5"3/4 with adj. 4"3/8-3"
track bar/panhard bar mount to lower link axle side 9" 1/2 adj. to 8"1/4-7"1/4
drag link 37"3/4
tie rod 48"1/4
 
Update, been working on the truck the last few nights. Got the double sher pitman arm built, mounted the bed, mounted the rear shocks, and finished all the power steering stuff. I moved the bed back 3" for a future exo cage.
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looking good. you may want to think about the angle of the rear shocks. just do some research and such on that angle. lots of info out there. one option is put the lower mount on the side of the axle tube that would drop the lower mount almost 3-4 inches. just ideas
 
looking good. you may want to think about the angle of the rear shocks. just do some research and such on that angle. lots of info out there. one option is put the lower mount on the side of the axle tube that would drop the lower mount almost 3-4 inches. just ideas
What's wrong with the angle of the shocks? I set the shocks up with the suspension fully drooped out. Moving the lower shock mounts lower on the axle would limit my down travel. I might some day change to a more straight up shock angle just have to see how this does
 
here are a couple of screen shots that i found that explains it better than i can. and a link to a good read


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Yeah I'm not really worried about the shock damping being affected the truck is pretty light but I wonder if it will kill the bushing from the springs moving front to back. I usually run them straight up but I didn't want to cut holes in the bed.
 
i was thinking you did not want to cut the bed, but i mentioned just encase.

it would be worth flexing it out with no shocks and take multiple measurements from different spots on the axle and upper mount and see what you can come up with, who know maybe you dont need a crazy long shock. then again run it. i ramble and over think shit sometime to a fault. :)
 
Alright update, got the truck together to go to Johnson Valley. Run turkey, resolution, hwy something, big Johnson, sunbonnet, and probably some others that I can't remember the names. The rear shock angle made it ride like shit. The pitman arm still hit my tie rod when at full bump. Idk if I covered that yet? Ended up taking out one of my jam nuts on my links and tightening the links as far as they would go still hits. Going to shorten the pitman arm now hopefully that does the trick. Had my buddy come over and help finish it before the trip. Cut down a 4x4 bumper through some lights on it and call it good. I really like how it turned out. Finished the exhaust, transfer case mount, and other miscellaneous stuff. Overall the truck did really good. Didn't break anything just a few leaks. Need hydro assist bad I got a work out turning spooled 37s on the rocks
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Some what of an update.
Bob the bed it's a complete hack job. Finally got all the air out of the brakes. Our annual January trip to Johnson valley is coming up so it's time to fix this turd.

To do:
New frame link mounts
Fix front axle drain
Hydro assist
Hydro e-brake
Replace gear oil

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Ego points for posting them bob pics:beer:
I've heard these guys eat their own young:flipoff2:
 
I'm really surprised you guys haven't ripped me apart for how shitty my bobbed bed is lol.
Got a few hours in the shop today. Fixed a drain plug on the front diff ,helps to have your welder set to the right setting before you start:shaking:. Built a new rear drive shaft out of poop pipe and mounted a hydraulic handbrake. Should be some more updates link mounts and some other miscellaneous stuff.
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Got some more time in the shop yesterday Got my steering box swapped out. Added a bracket to my hydraulic handbrake mount plumbed up the handbrake. My buddy touched up the bobbed bed an added some new frame link mounts that push the links inward about an inch per side. Before the link mounts on my frame were wider than on my axle this was done so that my tires wouldn't hit my links but under flex the tires still hit the links. The front suspension is pretty fucked the more I look at. Almost everything needs to be changed. Leave all that for another time.
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Our Johnson valley boys trip was successful didn't run as many trails as I would have liked to but still had fun. My kustom driveshaft vibrates at 40ish witch caused one of my transfer case shifters to fall off. Drilled a hole in it and plug welded it. Think I'm going to piece together a single ram full hydraulic steering setup. Does anyone know if a modified Toyota power steering pump can put out enough pressure to get the job done? I have my pump drilled out now and if I'm not on the throttle it's pretty much useless.

Here's a few pictures from the trip..Didn't get that many
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