Beat95yj
Rolling 24/7
I’ll dig out my FOA piston next time I’m in the garage. My main complaint was aluminum in the seals.
Didn't you do a video on it?I’ll dig out my FOA piston next time I’m in the garage. My main complaint was aluminum in the seals.
I did. But possibly I missed the burr’s. 🤷♂️. I should probably watch the video again. I don’t remember if I even mentioned that.Didn't you do a video on it?
Fuck giving some button pushing a burr knife. That's how you end up with scared parts. Those things should be deburred in the machine. Chamfer mill for most stuff, small ball mill for things it can't get too.Again easily solveable with a burr knife or a tumbler. Or flat sanding.
Problem is most of these guys don’t give a crap or don’t know better.
I’ve seen plenty of monkeys taught to use them. I prefer hollow ground three sided burr knives. Not those little things with the Spinny end that go right into your fucking thumb.Fuck giving some button pushing a burr knife. That's how you end up with scared parts. Those things should be deburred in the machine. Chamfer mill for most stuff, small ball mill for things it can't get too.
I've been doing this a long time, having the machine do it is always better. It looks way better than by hand and zero chance of a fuck up. With a dual spindle lathe and a bar feeder, those pistons should be ready to slap In a shock when they roll out of the parts catcher. If you need somebody baby sitting it to deburr parts, your loosing money.I’ve seen plenty of monkeys taught to use them. I prefer hollow ground three sided burr knives. Not those little things with the Spinny end that go right into your fucking thumb.
I agree, but using those tools assumes that you have round ports. A square port takes a lot longer even with live tooling on the lathe. An operator running 2 lathes should be able to deburr the pistons between during the cycle. At least in my experience.I've been doing this a long time, having the machine do it is always better. It looks way better than by hand and zero chance of a fuck up. With a dual spindle lathe and a bar feeder, those pistons should be ready to slap In a shock when they roll out of the parts catcher. If you need somebody baby sitting it to deburr parts, your loosing money.
Lights out overnight, no operator. There are no square ports on billet pistons. I do this every day, for the last 35 years. I know a thing or 2 about machining parts.I agree, but using those tools assumes that you have round ports. A square port takes a lot longer even with live tooling on the lathe. An operator running 2 lathes should be able to deburr the pistons between during the cycle. At least in my experience.
They're yellow so you know they're good.Just get a set of Monroe matics
Plot twist- he works at FOALights out overnight, no operator. There are no square ports on billet pistons. I do this every day, for the last 35 years. I know a thing or 2 about machining parts.
I agree, but using those tools assumes that you have round ports. A square port takes a lot longer even with live tooling on the lathe. An operator running 2 lathes should be able to deburr the pistons between during the cycle. At least in my experience.
Lights out overnight, no operator. There are no square ports on billet pistons. I do this every day, for the last 35 years. I know a thing or 2 about machining parts.
Got that ready just in time for their target audience.Any questions i need to get addressed? 😆
I have heard OverLanders talk about how they need $5000 plus in suspension to go down dirt roads and camp in a campground. That is a good target audience to have.Got that ready just in time for their target audience.
Oh definitely. So many of them dropping lots of money to keep up with the joneses.I have heard OverLanders talk about how they need $5000 plus in suspension to go down dirt roads and camp in a campground. That is a good target audience to have.
Seriously. They're right next door to each other. Well, down the street, but still...should have partnered with 74Weld!
I did try to help motochris out in the beginning. Obviously it didn't change things much.Plot twist- he works at FOA
I wish it were that simple. Once pistons come out of machines they get a quick inspection for tolerance and then go into a parts tumbler for 24 HRS. The media softens all edges and provides a smooth consistent finish. Once they come out of the tumbler they are cleaned and then ran by hand with oil on a honing stones. This ensure a very flat surface for the piston face. Once they are done they are electro-polished. This provides a final debur through chemicals and electricty and are then anodized.I've been doing this a long time, having the machine do it is always better. It looks way better than by hand and zero chance of a fuck up. With a dual spindle lathe and a bar feeder, those pistons should be ready to slap In a shock when they roll out of the parts catcher. If you need somebody baby sitting it to deburr parts, your loosing money.
Id be happy to send something for you to tear apart and find issues with. Not saying that arrogantly. Legit curious what you would have to say and if you did find something feedback is always welcome. We care deeply about making a great product and have worked hard to do so. Sometimes you have to eat some crow along the way. I apologize if I was not as welcoming with my responses in the past.They made a lot of questionable choices in the beginning. I asked about some of them, never got great answers.
Tumbling for 24 hrs? What the fuck are you using for media? Goose feathers? With ceramic media, 15 min, any more and they start to look like melted butter. Hand lapping? Waste of time. If they need hand lapping, you're doing something wrong in the lathe.I wish it were that simple. Once pistons come out of machines they get a quick inspection for tolerance and then go into a parts tumbler for 24 HRS. The media softens all edges and provides a smooth consistent finish. Once they come out of the tumbler they are cleaned and then ran by hand with oil on a honing stones. This ensure a very flat surface for the piston face. Once they are done they are electro-polished. This provides a final debur through chemicals and electricty and are then anodized.
I may or may not have chimed in on this thread. I own a full set of carbon coilovers. This purchase was late 2021 or early 2022. This is definitely not to come in with a gut punch, but I have had issues with your products from the box.Id be happy to send something for you to tear apart and find issues with. Not saying that arrogantly. Legit curious what you would have to say and if you did find something feedback is always welcome. We care deeply about making a great product and have worked hard to do so. Sometimes you have to eat some crow along the way. I apologize if I was not as welcoming with my responses in the past.
1. Ceramic media would be foolish to use on Aluminum. Plastic is the way to go. Ceramic would give a harsh surface fully of micro dents.Tumbling for 24 hrs? What the fuck are you using for media? Goose feathers? With ceramic media, 15 min, any more and they start to look like melted butter. Hand lapping? Waste of time. If they need hand lapping, you're doing something wrong in the lathe.
I completely understand your side of the story and I apologize for unpleasant experience.carbon_shocks you're welcome to check my post history. I've detailed a lot of this out in my build thread and other shock related threads.
The term your looking for is plateau hone. I would like to see shock dyno evidence that it actually does anything.1. Ceramic media would be foolish to use on Aluminum. Plastic is the way to go. Ceramic would give a harsh surface fully of micro dents.
2. Tumbling takes time and serves a purpose. If you are saying we are foolish for making are parts as smooth and burr free as possible I am not sure how to logically respond to that.
Regarding the use of a honing stone. I think your not aware of the reason for this based on your response so let me explain.
Image taking a shim with oil on it and dropping it on a mirror. Try to pick it up. It is going to be hard because of the stiction created. Now do the same thing with a surface with tiny micro scratches across the face of the mirror. By breaking the tension you allow for a more consistent opening of the shims. In addition this provide the flattest surface possible after all deburr processes.
Hand honing takes the quality up a notch and is common practice in the shock industry.
If you are saying this is foolish then you must know better than 100% of the shock tuners and people we have worked with that have long history in the shock industry.
Sounds tempting, but at this point, I don’t know that I could get to it in a timely manner. If something changes, I will let you know.Id be happy to send something for you to tear apart and find issues with. Not saying that arrogantly. Legit curious what you would have to say and if you did find something feedback is always welcome. We care deeply about making a great product and have worked hard to do so. Sometimes you have to eat some crow along the way. I apologize if I was not as welcoming with my responses in the past.
IMO that is such a rapid event when the valve opens and closes that it would be very hard to see with most of the dyno’s I have worked with. I don’t know if Roehrig has that resolution.The term your looking for is plateau hone. I would like to see shock dyno evidence that it actually does anything.