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Replace load bearing wall with beam. My house remodel.

non-OP said:
footings footings footings

don't think i have seen a reply here about them
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South end is in exterior wall and will be carried down to basment poored concrete wall. Not much thought put into it other than that.
Don't know if green and yellow posts can be wood, psl post, or need to be steel. I will probably do wood of some sort.
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North end is similar, carry to basement floor.
Inspector said there is likely already a footing poored parallel with posts in place. So just carry with post down to concrete floor.
I may just completely box in between the 2 basement posts with a 6" wall to match the basement beam. This would not be a big deal in the basement in this area. It may be overkill. I may do this instead of thinking of what bare minimum would be.
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arse_sidewards said:
If structure were the concern I'd bolt some flat stock on using those holes.

Since uppity inspectors are the concern I'd plug weld them and do a fresh coat of paint.
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I havent welded in a long time and need some practice so I'm going to plug them.
He said 41 cents a lb so total after tax for the beam is $251. I said yes to this beam.
I'll get it next week. Snow storm here this week.
 
I'd not be concerned with the holes, fit a plate if they need filling. I would not weld them, adding a haz and warping a beam isn't worth welding practice.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
I'd not be concerned with the holes, fit a plate if they need filling. I would not weld them, adding a haz and warping a beam isn't worth welding practice.
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It shouldn't warp since he's doing the same welding on both sides.
 
Beam is right under 600 lbs. Very managable for 1 person and normal garage tools.
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Had to move furnace air intake a few feet to the right because it exited the house exactly where my post will come down. House will get new siding within a year or 2 so I really dont care about siding, seems, etc. right now.

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1st time doing concrete. Poored a couple cups in this hole to flatten this out. I am a professional now. It'll likely work fine.

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View of exterior wall facing down.
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Im glad my current work at home mess is only one story. The other addition will probably be two but no way in hell I would add ontop of my 70 year old structure bad enough I am probably going to have to push the flat roof up about 2 inches due to years of water weight on a flat roof. Im probably just going to double truss each one and reinsulate it maybe I will use aluminum since I have so much laying around. :laughing:
 
This is where I am at now. Making progress.

I used 2 jack posts under the LVLs. I supported these 2 posts in the basement down to the floor really well. I did not support the side walls in the basement. They are fine. Nothing has collapsed yet.

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I will need to cut that 2x4 truss back. Post is going down right there.
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Same on top. Post will go up right at that corner. Beam will end 5" to the right.
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Looks good.

I just discovered this Shit tonight thanking my stepmoms ex husband the previous owner just apparently continued to let roof leak rather then address it
 

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Floor trusses are 14" tall.
Beam with 1.5" board on top is 12" total height.
The vertical placement of the beam makes the Truss hangers work pretty good. There is a 1/2" gap on top and 1.5" on bottom.

Should I fill in the 1/2" on top or leave it open? I think I see benefits to both.

If I leave it open. I just raise beam to about the right height, install support columns, then nail on all hangers.

If I fill it in, the columns will be a little harder to install as I will have to bang them in.

Not sure which gives me a quieter more supported floor. I wont really be nailing the beam to the upper subfloor as the upstairs is currently finished.



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I am ready to start cutting tonight.
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Engineer said 5/8 bolts every 15". I changed the pattern up depending on where my trusses and stuff were. Driling the beam was not bad at all. I used regualr grade 5 bolts. Carraige bolts would have been fine. The last 2 bolts on the end align with a truss so I think Ill sink some carraige botls in at that location.
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I am debating completely cutting the LVL or maybe just notch out 12" of the 14" and let it sit on the beam and then install hangers. Not sure if that is a good idea or dumb...

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Do you have space to leave it down enough to not cut the top boards?
That would leave 1/2" above the top, or put a piece of 1/2" plywood on top.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
Do you have space to leave it down enough to not cut the top boards?
That would leave 1/2" above the top, or put a piece of 1/2" plywood on top.

Aaron Z
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No.
The current vertical position was chosen based on nail hole alignment of the hangers I chose. A board on top of the I beam makes sense. This also means cutting out the top boards of the trusses. Either the beam can move up and down a little and then hanger can then be hung, or, I fill top with 1/2" plywood and then everything belongs in a certain place.

Here is a section cut of the truss showing the hanger nail alignment with Ibeam and 1.5" board on top.
 

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Did you pour concrete filler onto non-treated lumber in this application?

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I'm no professional, but I'm second guessing this solution.
 
The Freeak said:
Did you pour concrete filler onto non-treated lumber in this application?

I'm no professional, but I'm second guessing this solution.
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Yes, around it and a little on top. It was more of a feel good fill the hole application. 80% of the post is going to rest on the wood towards the exterior. I was going to run a piece of lumber across this section to better distribute the load.

The basement beam had some sort of simlar concrete poored around it. Figured this was the same.

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Any creative ways to lift this without muscle? It weighs about 900 lbs.
I plan on supporting on each side with some 2x4 or 2x6 to guide it straight up.
I have an engine hoist, bottle jack, floor jack, jeep winch, etc...
One end I can get into the attic. The other end will need to lift from below.

I am hoping an engine hoist will get it up 6 ft or so simply by lifting in the center. Then maybe I could lift from below with that...

The trusses have all been rebuilt. That sucked. A palm nailer worked pretty awesome for a lot of it. I could not get in most of it with a nailer.
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Last one we did we used the tall trans jack we had for the 2 post lift, went up in stages and blocked it as we went. Wound up just shy of the height we needed, so I went out and cut a chunk of a felled tree off and used that as our last spacer to lift into final. But we also had 9' ceilings.

More or less just what you are doing, but we had a crew of guys and were supporting the second floor so no trusses.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
A high lift jack some 2x4’s and a screw gun you could get that up there in a hour. Lift it up screw a 2x4 between the walls to hold it up do the other end. Repeat the process until it’s all the way up.
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Don't forget the part where after the first 4ft you're standing on one of your wife's bar stools cranking the jack that is standing on the other stool. :laughing:
Easier but less fun option would be to build a temp platform between the walls for the jack to sit on
 
kmkommes said:
I actually just called on one of those. They have one that will lift 1,000 lbs for $94 total for a weekend rental. Probably worth the $100 not to rig something up.
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That will work on one end, and rig other end from up in the attic. Way to flimsy and flexy to hoist with it in the center. I've got one btdt.
 
I am finally starting to see the end.

It was a little sketchy but I got it up about 7 feet last night. It is slow working alone and while also keeping up with family tasks.

It looks like its going to fit nicely and should be fully raised tonight.

I got it this high with a engine hoist, car jack with a 2x4, and occasially supported/lifted with a strap in the rafters.

At times the floor seemed not happy with all the weight on the engine hoist wheels so I put some lumber underneath to help span the floor joists.
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I only cut out 12" of the 14" LVL.

I rebuilt the ceiling truss like this. Seems good enough. I could hang one end of the beam on it with no movement.

The last picture shows where I left it last night. It is raised with penetration started. Going to bottom it out tonight so the wife is happy.

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MattS said:
Looking good. Don't forget your ruler in the attic.
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I lost my pry bar and walked around swearing for probably 10 minutes before I miraculously remembered it was under the installation up there holding up wiring so I wouldn't cut through it.

I think misplacing tools is part of the process.

That reminds me. This summer I dropped a 13mm socket when working on my roof. It perfectly rolled into downspout which disappears into the ground. Retrieving it is on a different to do list.
 
You know you can move 2x4's on your supporting structure, right? Probably, 2 per side would've been enough :lmao:

Either way, I'm sure your wife will be excited that you're finally bottoming out your wood - it's only taken 3 pages to get it this far.

Bottom it out, nail it solid, walk away before it starts shaking :laughing:
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
In my case it would be one stripped Phillips on each side:lmao:
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Of course, more fun that way. You get to add another layer of annoyance. People used to ask my why I buy the bits in bulk- once they spin once they get tossed. Torx is more forgiving with that but still same idea, they are cheap and I hate when it strips and I punch a screw head when it slips.
 
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