Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
Upgrade and fix it
Put on shelf for when new junk breaks
Put on shelf for when new junk breaks
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Rep builds a bunch of old Fords
- Thread starter reptillikus
- Start date
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reptillikus
ate lug
Still waiting on the transmission for the 90.
Decided to open up the BW1356 since the oil pump arms are known to fail
Surprisingly enough, there is minimal wear on the arm, and the case
I did mod the pump arm anyway though, just so i never have to open it back up again
The tcase is all back together now, guess i didnt snap a pic.
We're leaving Monday for the East Coast Bronco Roundup. Cant bring her '90 so were bringing the 88 & the 96. So i had the front end of the 88 in the air so i could inspect. Found a loose radius arm bolt, and a missing spring from the driver side caliper bracket. Also decided to check the front-end alignment
While im doing that i hear my kid say 'dad whats wrong with the tire?'
That concerned me so i stopped what i was doing and came over, to see this in the rear right:
I cant imagine how i got a nail up there between the lugs, but i did
Decided to open up the BW1356 since the oil pump arms are known to fail
Surprisingly enough, there is minimal wear on the arm, and the case
I did mod the pump arm anyway though, just so i never have to open it back up again
The tcase is all back together now, guess i didnt snap a pic.
We're leaving Monday for the East Coast Bronco Roundup. Cant bring her '90 so were bringing the 88 & the 96. So i had the front end of the 88 in the air so i could inspect. Found a loose radius arm bolt, and a missing spring from the driver side caliper bracket. Also decided to check the front-end alignment
While im doing that i hear my kid say 'dad whats wrong with the tire?'
That concerned me so i stopped what i was doing and came over, to see this in the rear right:
I cant imagine how i got a nail up there between the lugs, but i did
reptillikus
ate lug
Im all loaded up, we roll out for the east coast bronco roundup tomorrow 
94toytruck
Eastcoast crawler
Tomorrow, where is it this year? I know for years it was always close to the same date/venue as the 4runner Jambo.
reptillikus
ate lug
Twin Grove campground is hosting the event, with wheeling trips at AOAA and Rausch Creek on Thursday/Friday/Saturday. We're going on a family vacation for the whole week with plans to take the kiddo to Knoebels and Dorney Park, along with doing some of the clubs street cruises as well. Should be a good time!
It looks like I will probably be at AOAA Friday and Rausch Creek Saturday.
It looks like I will probably be at AOAA Friday and Rausch Creek Saturday.
frickn yahoo
Well-known member
They allow Non EB's to participate?
reptillikus
ate lug
Yeah they do, they're pretty laid back about it.
reptillikus
ate lug
No wheelin up date 
Ill get there, im way behind, and it rained the whole day we were at Rausch (again).
So lets see, we were working on the '90 Bronco.
The tuesday after we came back from vacation i picked up the E4OD:
transmission is in:
transfer case & driveshafts are in:
original starter is cracked:
...so i decided to upgrade to the PMGR starter:
wiring for the starter redone:
and the starter is in
....which means she's done!!!
Ill get there, im way behind, and it rained the whole day we were at Rausch (again).
So lets see, we were working on the '90 Bronco.
The tuesday after we came back from vacation i picked up the E4OD:
transmission is in:
transfer case & driveshafts are in:
original starter is cracked:
...so i decided to upgrade to the PMGR starter:
wiring for the starter redone:
and the starter is in
....which means she's done!!!
reptillikus
ate lug
So with the tcase & trans full of fluid, we fired it up to go for a test drive.
The second i rolled the window down, the driver window motor gearbox broke:
and on our way home the 32 year old motor mounts gave up the ghost and the fan ate the fan shroud
So i rebuilt the window motor gearbox and got new motor mounts installed while i waited for the shroud to show up
So that done i took it for its second test drive.....
....and theres something wrong with the transmission
The shifts are at weird places, and it was making noise going in/out of 2nd.
I went over to the trans shop and the tech jumped in with me and he agrees, so im dropping the bronco off wednesday morning so they can look at it. Thankfully it has a warranty, but this still sucks because im betting its coming back out.
The second i rolled the window down, the driver window motor gearbox broke:
and on our way home the 32 year old motor mounts gave up the ghost and the fan ate the fan shroud
So i rebuilt the window motor gearbox and got new motor mounts installed while i waited for the shroud to show up
So that done i took it for its second test drive.....
....and theres something wrong with the transmission
The shifts are at weird places, and it was making noise going in/out of 2nd.
I went over to the trans shop and the tech jumped in with me and he agrees, so im dropping the bronco off wednesday morning so they can look at it. Thankfully it has a warranty, but this still sucks because im betting its coming back out.
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reptillikus
ate lug
So while i was messing with the '90, the engine in the '96 started squeaking 
So bizarre. Im not going to waste your time with the troubleshooting, but it wasnt the accessory drive.
Long story short, the distributor bearing was bad, and the shaft was rubbing against the housing and squeaking. You can see what looks like iron dust inside the distributor in the above pics. New distributor ordered, and installed:
It got a full tuneup while i was there. This time i bought Blue Streak 9mm wires, which include their own wire retainers, and boot sleeves if you have headers which is kind of cool
They have a ton more insulation on them than Ford Racing 9mm Wires. Beefy!
...and done!
So bizarre. Im not going to waste your time with the troubleshooting, but it wasnt the accessory drive.
Long story short, the distributor bearing was bad, and the shaft was rubbing against the housing and squeaking. You can see what looks like iron dust inside the distributor in the above pics. New distributor ordered, and installed:
It got a full tuneup while i was there. This time i bought Blue Streak 9mm wires, which include their own wire retainers, and boot sleeves if you have headers which is kind of cool
They have a ton more insulation on them than Ford Racing 9mm Wires. Beefy!
...and done!
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reptillikus
ate lug
I know, right?! Its not what i thought it was, but im glad it was an easy fix.
WaterH
Well-known member
I need you to come down and troubleshoot my 90’. I’m about ready to shove it in the bay.
reptillikus
ate lug
I'm telling ya. I've been trying to work on the F250 for what feels like forever, but the broncos demand my attention! We just got home and the rear window on the 96 won't roll down 
What's going on with yours?
What's going on with yours?
WaterH
Well-known member
I was trying to sort out a electrical drain. Didn’t figure it out and didn’t change anything. Next morning it won’t start. The fuel pumps weren’t running, so I hot wired them and it still won’t start. I think the fusable link to the pumps is bad, but how would that stop it from starting? Had to stop working on it and push it out of the shop because of my HEMTT problems. I’ll get back on it next week.I'm telling ya. I've been trying to work on the F250 for what feels like forever, but the broncos demand my attention! We just got home and the rear window on the 96 won't roll down
What's going on with yours?
Oh and my rear window stopped working. (Up, of course) The power wire must be shorted because a fuse will blow the second I put it in.
reptillikus
ate lug
Fusible Link W, which is 20ga, Blue. Supplies power direct to the fuel pump relay. Check for power on the yellow wire @ the fuel pump relay, should be there 100% of the time. If you have power there, then its something else. EEC relay turns the fuel pump relay on, so if either is bad the fuel pump wont run.
Or are you saying it wont crank? Jump the starter relay to see if starter is bad. If the relay is good, then you have to assume the problem is in the start circuit, which includes the MLPS on the transmission. I can get diagrams of that circuit if you need it.
Dash switch is powered by Fuse 14, key switch in dash is powered by Fuse 12. Both switches share a single ground path, thru the dash switch. Which fuse pops?
WaterH
Well-known member
It cranks fine, just doesn’t start. The fuel pump relay works on the bench. I Direct wired the fuel pumps, bypassing everything and they run the fuel rail up to 40 psi. Still won’t start even with ether. The EEC may not be sending power to the ignition and the fuel pump relay. It was running fine the night before and the only thing I messed with was the stack of hot wires that come off the hot side of the start relay. (One of them being the fuseable link) I put them all back. But maybe I wiggled the wire wrong.
My dash switch hasn’t worked in a long time. The key just quit a few weeks ago. I think the hot wire is shorted where it bends at the gate. My old Bronco did the same thing. I have a bunch of junk in the back right now, so getting the cover off will be a pain. Once I have the cover off, it’s easy to get the window down. I actually have my gate modified to make it easy. (I learned from my other Bronco.
reptillikus
ate lug
Is your EEC relay working? If it died it won't fire the injectors or turn on the ignition module (so no spark). If you have a timing light, see if you have spark.
I had to rewire the tailgate harness in the '90 because those wires broke. I wish there was a better way to wire them so they wouldn't twist and break.
I had to rewire the tailgate harness in the '90 because those wires broke. I wish there was a better way to wire them so they wouldn't twist and break.
WaterH
Well-known member
EEC relay? Hmmmm, I’ll have to look into that.
WaterH
Well-known member
Well I found the EEC relay and pulled it. There is no power there. I hooked power to one of the female connectors in the socket and heard the fuel pump relay click. Then I tried the key and it started right up. I unhooked that power and it immediately shut down. I went back to the stack of ring connectors at the starter selinoid and cleaned them real good. Those ring connectors are the thing I was messing with the night before it quit. I had high hopes this was it, but still no start.
At this point, I’m back to the fuseable link. I believe it’s one of those wires with the ring connectors. Maybe I bent it wrong some how. Not sure how to proceed. Not sure which one is the fuseable. I’m thinking one of the yellow ones. Should I just skin the wire back 6” and see if I have power?
This may sound stupid, but I’m not really sure what a fuseable link is. I think it’s just a short length of wire close to the ring connector. Is that right? When they say “fusible”, does it melt inside or something? Why do they use it instead of a fuse?
At least I can hot wire the relay and make the truck run.
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
No power to EEC relay...89' F150 5.0 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks - No power to EEC relay...89' F150 5.0 - Hey all, Yesterday I was cleaning up some wiring/plumbing under the hood, and when I went out for a drive, I lost EEC power. I believe it may have been caused by unplugged (no clip, just bare contacts) EVR wire...
www.ford-trucks.com
WaterH
Well-known member
OK, I’m officially a dumb shit. I went back to the stack of ring connectors and noticed a wire/ring connector that had fallen down behind the battery. Hooked it up and all Is working. (Well not the rear window)
reptillikus
ate lug
Video from our last wheeling trip:
Another rainy day at Rausch Creek
Another rainy day at Rausch Creek
reptillikus
ate lug
Ok, let the next project begin!
Mounting hardware removed:
filler neck disconnected:
dissecting the wiring:
these things have a galvanized tray underneath for ramps that will need to go:
...and coming up!
The donor truck went back to its parking spot in the stones for now. Eventually my red bed will get cobbled onto it and then a buddy is buying the truck from me.
Today im going to clean the bed and get it ready to go into the garage for some modifications. I need to make it fit my 96 F250, which is not a C&C truck, so its going to take some work to fit on my frame.
Mounting hardware removed:
filler neck disconnected:
dissecting the wiring:
these things have a galvanized tray underneath for ramps that will need to go:
...and coming up!
The donor truck went back to its parking spot in the stones for now. Eventually my red bed will get cobbled onto it and then a buddy is buying the truck from me.
Today im going to clean the bed and get it ready to go into the garage for some modifications. I need to make it fit my 96 F250, which is not a C&C truck, so its going to take some work to fit on my frame.
WaterH
Well-known member
Fantastic video! That’s the kind of wheeling I love. My Hemtt would probably keep up with you guys, but I’m too chickenshit to risk the body damage. It would be fun to take my Bronco there. Don’t know if it would follow you, but not afraid to scratch it. You definitely take some serious lines. That “Mog thing” is bad ass. Nice to have someone like that along with you. It looks like the whole trek would have been much easier if it wasn’t raining. That adds some fun too. It looked like even the smaller tired Bronco did good without a rear locker.
New project is interesting. We’ll be watching.
New project is interesting. We’ll be watching.
reptillikus
ate lug
Scott Tafco, actually
As far as i know, they built most, if not all of the beds for Home Depot. its is pretty nicely built IMO
extruded floor panels on top of horizontal channel rails, on top of a 5" channel main rail with a ton of gussets
...i think this is gonna be super useful
So one of the challenges i have to overcome is the framerail width. The Superduty is a C&C truck so 34" frame width, and the 96 is a standard frame so 36.5" i tihnk? Its also not a flat rail, it has a hump over the axle whereas the C&C truck doesnt; the hump is actually a recess into the underside of the frame.
The other issue is my F250 is a dump truck
So i need to make the frame rails wider, and fit the hump on the frame, and i need to make it work with my dump kit. And, ive never mig welded aluminum before
I also want to add some bracing to it while im in there, since it was never designed to be a dump body. So this should be interesting.
As far as i know, they built most, if not all of the beds for Home Depot. its is pretty nicely built IMO
extruded floor panels on top of horizontal channel rails, on top of a 5" channel main rail with a ton of gussets
...i think this is gonna be super useful
So one of the challenges i have to overcome is the framerail width. The Superduty is a C&C truck so 34" frame width, and the 96 is a standard frame so 36.5" i tihnk? Its also not a flat rail, it has a hump over the axle whereas the C&C truck doesnt; the hump is actually a recess into the underside of the frame.
The other issue is my F250 is a dump truck
So i need to make the frame rails wider, and fit the hump on the frame, and i need to make it work with my dump kit. And, ive never mig welded aluminum before
I also want to add some bracing to it while im in there, since it was never designed to be a dump body. So this should be interesting.
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reptillikus
ate lug
Thanks!
The mogster belongs to OX1 over on FSB. I know he's on here but i dont think he posts all that much. Its quite the capable rig.
Yeah the day was a slippery muddy mess, and since me & ox both trailer to the park we typically dont shy away from any of the hard lines. Rausch Creek is pretty tight too; i tagged my driver door pretty hard. I think id be afraid to bring yours there; its huge and id be terrified of smashing it after putting in all that hard work building it!
Our buddy Jim in the 96 on 37s did really well, esp considering he's got a 4 hour drive to Rausch and he doesnt trailer there. ARBs front/rear but as you saw he is having issues with the rear locking and it caused him some problems that day.
reptillikus
ate lug
Got my assistant helping me:
...and in the garage!
going over
header is sitting on a set of wheel dollys, the back end is on a pair of 55 gallon drums. Whatever works, right?
Tin box for the ramps, its just riveted to the underside of the bed
Tomorrow after work ill be removing the ramp box as it will interfere with the hydraulic scissor. From there i need to start on the frame rails- the bed is for a C&C and they measure 34.25" wide, whereas my truck is a standard frame, which measures more like 37.375" wide. So the plan is to remove the original frame rails from the bed and put new ones one at the correct width. Ive got new channel in the garage ready to go to make new ones, so the weekends plan is to try and get both rails off the bed so i can start mocking up the new ones.
...and in the garage!
going over
header is sitting on a set of wheel dollys, the back end is on a pair of 55 gallon drums. Whatever works, right?
Tin box for the ramps, its just riveted to the underside of the bed
Tomorrow after work ill be removing the ramp box as it will interfere with the hydraulic scissor. From there i need to start on the frame rails- the bed is for a C&C and they measure 34.25" wide, whereas my truck is a standard frame, which measures more like 37.375" wide. So the plan is to remove the original frame rails from the bed and put new ones one at the correct width. Ive got new channel in the garage ready to go to make new ones, so the weekends plan is to try and get both rails off the bed so i can start mocking up the new ones.
reptillikus
ate lug
Holy shit an update!
So i removed the galvanized storage box for the ramps, and started removing the original frame rails from the truck bed
but then this happened during a storm:
So i lost a couple weeks while i cut those trees up, got rid of the stump and brought in dirt to fill in the hole and re-grade the yard. So with that done, i was able to resume my work on the bed. So...
Both frame rails are removed now:
The I-beam cross members sit inside the outer frame:
which means the frame rails sat on 1/8" spacers so theyd contact the i-beams. Since the rails are getting replaced/moved outboard i had to remove these as well
I had previously bought a 25' stick of 5" 6061, which i had cut down to two 9' rails (plus a remnant for cross members)
...so that gets me to this morning, when i triple checked the frame rail width on the F250, set my new rails in place, and tacked them down!
I made all new gussets for every i-beam just like the bed originally had, made some spacers out of 1/8" plate, and started welding. I bought the spool gun for my machine, and after tinkering a bit started welding. I think ive got it dialed in ok? First time mig welding aluminum, i think the welds look good?
I have the rails fully welded so i started welding the first gusset before stopping for the day
Tomorrow morning ill be back out there- hoping to finish welding this gusset (plus get the other 11 all done as well). Im not sure about the verticals yet, so im gonna have to set some scraps up and practice that a bit before i start welding on the bed.
So i removed the galvanized storage box for the ramps, and started removing the original frame rails from the truck bed
but then this happened during a storm:
So i lost a couple weeks while i cut those trees up, got rid of the stump and brought in dirt to fill in the hole and re-grade the yard. So with that done, i was able to resume my work on the bed. So...
Both frame rails are removed now:
The I-beam cross members sit inside the outer frame:
which means the frame rails sat on 1/8" spacers so theyd contact the i-beams. Since the rails are getting replaced/moved outboard i had to remove these as well
I had previously bought a 25' stick of 5" 6061, which i had cut down to two 9' rails (plus a remnant for cross members)
...so that gets me to this morning, when i triple checked the frame rail width on the F250, set my new rails in place, and tacked them down!
I made all new gussets for every i-beam just like the bed originally had, made some spacers out of 1/8" plate, and started welding. I bought the spool gun for my machine, and after tinkering a bit started welding. I think ive got it dialed in ok? First time mig welding aluminum, i think the welds look good?
I have the rails fully welded so i started welding the first gusset before stopping for the day
Tomorrow morning ill be back out there- hoping to finish welding this gusset (plus get the other 11 all done as well). Im not sure about the verticals yet, so im gonna have to set some scraps up and practice that a bit before i start welding on the bed.
WaterH
Well-known member
Welds look good. Any problem with them pulling/warping?