Rear axle unit bearing cups and brakes

[arse_sidewards]

Is weeping 90w a problem?

Depends how many real problems you have.

 

[YJLOPES]

Depends how many real problems you have.

Weeping 90W at the third wouldn't bother me too much. I wouldn't pull the rig apart just for that, but I'd fix it the next time I had a reason to be in there.

Fluid leaking on the brakes would piss me off and make me want to fix it now.

 

[Grendel]

Sorry I'm poor and sketch everything on paper. I had my guy cut these out of 1/2" plate. I made spacers so the brackets would clear my weld cups with enough room.

Also need to clock everything to get the UB bolts out as they are pretty long. In hindsight I would have clicked it all differently but you know how that goes.

My calipers sit perfect as far as brake line orientation and the bleeder is at the top. They sit lower then I want buty wheels don't have a heavy offset so they aren't too exposed.

Doing it differently I would have clocked the weld cups so the calipers sit up higher.

So getting around to using the same calipers, abutments and rotors on a 14B.

How far off the rotor's edge did you space the caliper?

We made the hubs look like a D60 front.

 

[Skinny]

I spaced the caliper so the pad has equal distance at top and bottom. I think typically the bottom has more room and it probably doesn't matter but I think you don't want the pad to run over on the top edge of the rotor causing weird wear.

Since I'm poor I basically set the caliper on the rotor. Used some thin cardboard between the rotor and caliper to space it up till it was even. Then burned my brackets on.

Hope this answered your question.

Also note in my setup I had to use 1/2 thick spacers from my brackets to the caliper for clearance. It also allowed me to use factory caliper bolts.

 

[Grendel]

Yeah, the card board between rotor and caliper is the distance I was looking for. Looks like 1/4" to me

 

[Skinny]

It didn't take much to space it up, I think I had some super thin parts box cardboard and folded it two or three times on itself.

Of course I set it up, tacked it, disassemble reassemble, etc. so tons of time checking clearances all around before finalizing it.

You also want to pay close attention to the rotor surface where it sits in the caliper bracket. Took awhile to get it all even side to side to make sure the bracket itself is centered left to right on the rotor.

 

[TTRAxle&FAB]

05+ branik cup. 99-04 rear rotor with the hub register bored to 5.125 and wilwood 120-6814 caliper. Allen bolt fits thru the bracket for UB removal.