What's new

Rear axle unit bearing cups and brakes

i need 5x5.5 which no one makes for the 05+

You didn't mention that in your earlier post.
The 5 or standard 6 lug pattern will not fit in a 05+ UB. The center snout is too big.
 
the 99-04 is the only thing that will work for 5 lug, I have the same unit bearing on all 4 corners.
 
Any new developments in this world?

I'm leaning towards the crane kit for my 9" build. That doesn't have an e-brake though, which would be nice to have...

Is there some new option I haven't been able to find with an e-brake? If not, I think it wouldn't be terribly difficult to adapt a wilwood electric e-brake to the crane setup, which would allow for a cool electric cutting brake.
 
Any new developments in this world?

I'm leaning towards the crane kit for my 9" build. That doesn't have an e-brake though, which would be nice to have...

Is there some new option I haven't been able to find with an e-brake? If not, I think it wouldn't be terribly difficult to adapt a wilwood electric e-brake to the crane setup, which would allow for a cool electric cutting brake.

You’ll have to Wade through op not having a clue about what he wants. But he’s running 05+ unit bearings all four corners with electric ebrake.
 

You’ll have to Wade through op not having a clue about what he wants. But he’s running 05+ unit bearings all four corners with electric ebrake.
Shit I remember that thread, It was tough to read. I'll try again.
 
Not that it matters to this. But the new JTs have a unit bearing 44 for a full float axle. Small bolt pattern 32 spline bearing I believe.
Might work great for a 35/32 spline setup. Interesting to see oems going to unit bearing rears
1680793521532.png
 
Any new developments in this world?

I'm leaning towards the crane kit for my 9" build. That doesn't have an e-brake though, which would be nice to have...

Is there some new option I haven't been able to find with an e-brake? If not, I think it wouldn't be terribly difficult to adapt a wilwood electric e-brake to the crane setup, which would allow for a cool electric cutting brake.
Most of the cups are made to fit a lightweight rotor hat.
 
Since this thread kinda covers both… is the Currie the only 99-04 option?
 
Spidertrax is probably the best one out there
probably stupid question but the price is for just one…? And the spidertrax ones will accept factory unit bearings or are they proprietary ?
 
I am running the 05 UB on an E350 Dana 60. I decided to go with stock 99-04 front brakes as they clear a 16" wheel and match what I have up front already.

The 05+ rear rotor does not fit the UB without machine work and doesn't clear 16" wheels. I was hoping it would slide on soni could utilize the drum in the hat for a parking brake but that's not gonna happen.

The problem I'm running into is that parking brake options are non-existent for a rotor that is nearly 1.5" wide.

All the aftermarket stuff seems to only go up to around 3/4" rotor width. So I either have to find a way to modify a caliper to fit the wider rotor or admit defeat and go to a driveline brake.

I am using an NP242HD with a Tom Woods SYE and there is no off the shelf kit to fit this application. So now I have to hunt for a rotor to fit the flange I have. No one seems to have rotors separately other than for a Toyota.

Low on my list of priorities but parking brake at some point needs to be addressed.

If you decide to go with a light weight brake kit that has an aftermarket rotor/hat and calipers all of this is a non-issue.
 
probably stupid question but the price is for just one…? And the spidertrax ones will accept factory unit bearings or are they proprietary ?
$320 a pair last time I bought some for cups
Trail gear sell cups as well

If your talking about bearings, yes that's for 1.
Trail gear
Branik
Camburg
All sell bearing as well. But they seem to be machined timken beside the camburg unit
 
probably stupid question but the price is for just one…? And the spidertrax ones will accept factory unit bearings or are they proprietary ?
$300 something for the pair
And yes they will
 
I am running the 05 UB on an E350 Dana 60. I decided to go with stock 99-04 front brakes as they clear a 16" wheel and match what I have up front already.

The 05+ rear rotor does not fit the UB without machine work and doesn't clear 16" wheels. I was hoping it would slide on soni could utilize the drum in the hat for a parking brake but that's not gonna happen.

The problem I'm running into is that parking brake options are non-existent for a rotor that is nearly 1.5" wide.

All the aftermarket stuff seems to only go up to around 3/4" rotor width. So I either have to find a way to modify a caliper to fit the wider rotor or admit defeat and go to a driveline brake.

I am using an NP242HD with a Tom Woods SYE and there is no off the shelf kit to fit this application. So now I have to hunt for a rotor to fit the flange I have. No one seems to have rotors separately other than for a Toyota.

Low on my list of priorities but parking brake at some point needs to be addressed.

If you decide to go with a light weight brake kit that has an aftermarket rotor/hat and calipers all of this is a non-issue.
Change your rotors. Why wouldn’t you?
 
I am running the 05 UB on an E350 Dana 60. I decided to go with stock 99-04 front brakes as they clear a 16" wheel and match what I have up front already.

whos unit bearing cups and how did you get them on an e350 rear? lop off the spindles and weld the cups on? what did your wms distance end up at?
 
Since this thread kinda covers both… is the Currie the only 99-04 option?

currie, spidertrax and trailgear offer them.

pick a unit bearing and buy the cups from the same company. i have heard that they not always mix and 'fit' perfectly

also some need drive slugs, some dont so take that into account when picking
 
Last edited:
I want to run off the shelf parts only. When I caliper locks up I don't want to special order some custom fit rotor or source caliper online. I don't trailer anything so keeping things OEM like brakes is a crucial part for me.

Look at my S10 build, I have some detail. Yeah chop the tubes, weld on the cups, then use your shafts of choice. Easy peezy way to get a custom width 1 ton axle.

The slugs are part of the shafts, I don't think anyone has parts that interchange. They are a matched set IIRC. I'm running the metric SD pattern so I bought UBs off of Rockauto. Don't remember the brand. But yeah I bolted them on and they were locked right up.

After putting some paint on it could see the witness mark. The bearing dust shield was hitting a lip on the cup. So I dusted it with a flap wheel. No problems anymore. I think you can probably use any UB and it's going to work. There must be some differences in tolerances on non-critical parts of the bearing. No biggie.
 
Here some shots from the axle build.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20230621_190116965.jpg
    IMG_20230621_190116965.jpg
    4.1 MB · Views: 50
  • IMG_20230316_182935797.jpg
    IMG_20230316_182935797.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 50
  • IMG_20230316_181655401.jpg
    IMG_20230316_181655401.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 51
I've grown to like the like the busted knuckle kit.


This is obviously for a front axle. I can't seem to find a bracket to install this same arrangement on the rear. I'd be happy with a weld on, but I don't see one. In fact, I can't find any weld on kit that fits a cast rotor and fits 8x170 bolt pattern. I'll give them a call on monday but I'm wondering if I am missing it?
 
Last edited:
I think I ended up like 1-2" wider then stock Keep TJ/XJ/ZJ.

There are plenty of brake kits that fit the rear too. I think Crane has mounting holes in the weld cup that fit the bracket with multiple locations.

I do not know of any caliper brackets that are off the shelf that work. The only cast rotor that fits the UB is a front rotor from a 99-04 or 05 axle. I sketched something up and had a local guy cut me some brackets that I welded on.

I found virtually nothing on weld cups before doing my build. There is good info on the product web pages and Crane has a good video describing their kit. But I have yet to see a build in a forum anywhere.
 
I think I ended up like 1-2" wider then stock Keep TJ/XJ/ZJ.

There are plenty of brake kits that fit the rear too. I think Crane has mounting holes in the weld cup that fit the bracket with multiple locations.

I do not know of any caliper brackets that are off the shelf that work. The only cast rotor that fits the UB is a front rotor from a 99-04 or 05 axle. I sketched something up and had a local guy cut me some brackets that I welded on.

I found virtually nothing on weld cups before doing my build. There is good info on the product web pages and Crane has a good video describing their kit. But I have yet to see a build in a forum anywhere.
Still have the sketch of the caliper brackets? I'd love to use them.
 
Sorry I'm poor and sketch everything on paper. I had my guy cut these out of 1/2" plate. I made spacers so the brackets would clear my weld cups with enough room.

Also need to clock everything to get the UB bolts out as they are pretty long. In hindsight I would have clicked it all differently but you know how that goes.

My calipers sit perfect as far as brake line orientation and the bleeder is at the top. They sit lower then I want buty wheels don't have a heavy offset so they aren't too exposed.

Doing it differently I would have clocked the weld cups so the calipers sit up higher.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20230621_183011540.jpg
    IMG_20230621_183011540.jpg
    3.2 MB · Views: 30
  • IMG_20230328_181518752.jpg
    IMG_20230328_181518752.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 28
  • IMG_20230328_181521743.jpg
    IMG_20230328_181521743.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 28
Doing it differently I would have clocked the weld cups so the calipers sit up higher.
Can you clarify? I think I get what you’re saying but I don’t see what’s stopping your brackets from rotating 45 from where they’re at so the caliper is over the top right UB bolt instead of the bottom right UB bolt (in this pic). Or maybe that puts the bleeder kinda below the brake line, so rotate it more and flip the caliper so it’s on the top left UB bolt which should put the bleeder at the highest point?

1698523074887.png
 
Correct the UB bolt has to be in the middle of the two brackets in order to have enough space to remove it. Unless you want to drill a big hole in the bracket.

Since at the time I was unsure of how the pinion angle would be as I was on the fence of using a doubler at the time and also potentially using this axle down the road in a shorter vehicle this was the compromise I landed at.

Could be better but it works. The bleeder is at the most ideal point and the brake line fitting is also very good.

Again with the off the shelf parts thing I'm using factory front hardlines for a lot of reasons. They are cheap. You can get one locally immediately or online in two days. They have enough length. They also have a hard line section that has the correct bends to clear stuff. So they work great for the $12 they cost.

I guess if I was using an AN banjo adapter I could do whatever I want but that's not the route I was going in this build.

If I had to do it over again I would have spent more time calculating all this. But I built these axles a long time ago so I made the decisions as best as possible. Also since there aren't a lot of write ups online the questions were kind of unknown.

So lesson learned 🤣

If I had more offset in the wheels I'd be more concerned dragging the calipers but I'm not.
 
Looks like a good solution to me. I was just trying to understand the “if I did it again” part so if I or anyone ever goes down the path we can learn from your setup
 
No prob

Yeah I'd say pick your brake setup and pinion angle first before burning in your weld cups.
 
Sorry I'm poor and sketch everything on paper. I had my guy cut these out of 1/2" plate. I made spacers so the brackets would clear my weld cups with enough room.

Also need to clock everything to get the UB bolts out as they are pretty long. In hindsight I would have clicked it all differently but you know how that goes.

My calipers sit perfect as far as brake line orientation and the bleeder is at the top. They sit lower then I want buty wheels don't have a heavy offset so they aren't too exposed.

Doing it differently I would have clocked the weld cups so the calipers sit up higher.
Is this all 99-04 front brake parts? Rotor, caliper, and caliper bracket, and you just made the bracket from the tube to the caliper bracket?
 
Correct

99-04 and 05 rotors do share the same ID on the rotor hat so they both fit the UB. You cannot use any rear rotor as the ID doesn't fit off the shelf. It would require machine work.

Note that the rotor hat ID and the rim hub dimensions are not the same. The UB has to steps locating both of those parts.

So I picked the 99-04 brakes as they fit a 16" wheel unlike the 05 stuff. Then like you said used the entire brake setup and just made the brackets to fit it all. So completely OEM brakes out back.
 
How well do these parts are seal? Is weeping 90w a problem? Are folks just using the O-ring that the unit bearing uses in a from application, or supplementing it with some sealant? What about sealing the at the drive flange?
 
Top Back Refresh