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Random stuff you made.

Not exactly proud of this hackfuckery, but not too ashamed to share it:laughing:

Installed a little 2.5 gallon water heater under the kitchen sink because it's fed by a tankless that sends hot water to that faucet right after you no longer need it. Couldn't make room to route the T&P relief valve discharge into the drain "properly", and it's on slab so I couldn't shoot down through the floor, but there is a cleanout right under that drain . . . :idea:

Bought a spare 2" ABS cleanout plug, drilled & tapped to 1/2" NPT, threaded in a swivel 90 PTC fitting & ran 3/8" nylon air brake tubing from the T&P valve into the cleanout.

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Left the low loop as a telltale - if there's ever water in it, the T&P got pissy at some point.
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I'm not bragging, more like . . . confessing :homer:
 
[486] said:
dude, you're sounding like someone who endlessly lists out manufacturers of things they bought
instead of doing the proper 'point and grunt' at things they built
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You got me there. I do buy new material when I need it and I even sprung for portaband blades last week:smokin:
 
Firstram said:
You got me there. I do buy new material when I need it and I even sprung for portaband blades last week:smokin:
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I've got a pile of them I gotta weld back together
haven't wquite got the blade welding dicked yet and the portaband really bends them sharp off the wheels through the guide rollers
 
[486] said:
I've got a pile of them I gotta weld back together
haven't wquite got the blade welding dicked yet and the portaband really bends them sharp off the wheels through the guide rollers
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Just tack tack with 211. Then flapper disc it down smooth.
 
2big bronco said:
Just tack tack with 211. Then flapper disc it down smooth.
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I've been doing tig with 030 mig wire as filler
annealling it afterwords, but the weld's still breaking out, so I think it's my welding still being a little shitty
 
[486] said:
I've been doing tig with 030 mig wire as filler
annealling it afterwords, but the weld's still breaking out, so I think it's my welding still being a little shitty
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i'm probably wrong 'cuz I haven't welded any blades.. but would just fuse welding them then annealing be best? like a blade welder on the big old upright machines have.

that or i've only ever heard of 309 filler used on blades.

I hope to be welding blades soon. found a single ph upright adjustable speed bandsaw with a blade welder on it. currently blade welder isn't working but don't imagine it will be a hard fix. the speed adjustment looks similar to a cvt. never seen that before.
 
[486] said:
I've got a pile of them I gotta weld back together
haven't wquite got the blade welding dicked yet and the portaband really bends them sharp off the wheels through the guide rollers
Click to expand...
I've tried different methods and had zero success. Hell I even bought a blade welder and still can't make it work properly. Scarfing the ends and silver soldering. Everything.

Sawblade.com had blades for my Grizzly swivel head bandsaw for a fraction of the price of the blades from Grizzly, and they last a hell of a lot longer too. Worth it to just pony up for them. Also with the blades from them by the time I snap a weld (if I even do) the teeth are worn out anyways. I was having problems with the Grizzly blades snapping at the weld before the teeth were worn off.
 
tracyb said:
i'm probably wrong 'cuz I haven't welded any blades.. but would just fuse welding them then annealing be best? like a blade welder on the big old upright machines have.

that or i've only ever heard of 309 filler used on blades.

I hope to be welding blades soon. found a single ph upright adjustable speed bandsaw with a blade welder on it. currently blade welder isn't working but don't imagine it will be a hard fix. the speed adjustment looks similar to a cvt. never seen that before.
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I've always heard silver solder, but I've never had 45% work for me, just cracks immediately
I was going with the er70 just because reasons, got some 316ss that I could try in that size though

I'd fusion weld it but I'm not a good welder so the edges always blow out, and a gap in the teeth is real bad juju, so I jam a shitload of wire into the ends then grind it off after
an electric blade welder would likely do a lot better once you figure out how to do it, ain't shit to them either, just a very low voltage very high amperage transformer, probably just burnt out switch contacts or somesuch

yeah lots of them use a variator pulley like a snowmobile, kinda neat until parts break
 
billybob_81067 said:
I've tried different methods and had zero success. Hell I even bought a blade welder and still can't make it work properly. Scarfing the ends and silver soldering. Everything.

Sawblade.com had blades for my Grizzly swivel head bandsaw for a fraction of the price of the blades from Grizzly, and they last a hell of a lot longer too. Worth it to just pony up for them. Also with the blades from them by the time I snap a weld (if I even do) the teeth are worn out anyways. I was having problems with the Grizzly blades snapping at the weld before the teeth were worn off.
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grandpa used to cut his broken blades into hacksaw blades, I could do that, but I want to weld them back together, so I'm trying to learn
 
Filthy McChevy said:
When I take a blade off its done. How are they breaking and being worth welded?
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Porta band blades break for all kinds of stupid reasons from them getting pinched while cutting, to just snapping because they were probably poorly welded from the factory. It also only happens when you are using your only blade and still have 1 more cut to make.
 
budget76 said:
typical Irate build :flipoff2:
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Hey with my level of ADHD just be glad anything at all gets done!

Yesterday afternoon my plan was to cut up a bunch of steel rod on my trailer into short lengths. Well I decided to head to the local gettin place before I headed to the shop and see if there was any good stuff. Ended up getting one of those steel 4 drawer organizing cabinets full of stuff for $50 and a couple hitch pins and a chisel for $0.75 a lb.

Took it up to the shop and proceeded to spend the next few hours organizing, bagging up, and sealing all the stuff that was in the cabinet. Then where I got the bags from needed re-organized because the drawer full of bags was a mess. Then I ended up lubing up all the slides on the organizer drawers I already have, and decided to use up a few almost empty aerosol cans in my steel tray of oil cans and whatnot next to my organizer drawers because I wanted to clean it up and move it to a different spot so I can build a bunch of new spots for more organizational bins. Then where I wanted to move my can tray to there was some tubing bender dies and a small tubing bender for larger copper tubing. I wanted to put it with my other copper tubing benders in their toolbox, but it was too large to fit, so I went on a spree of finding the perfect toolbox for all my copper tube bending stuff. After trying several empty toolboxes I had I finally decided the perfect toolbox for my copper tube benders was the toolbox currently occupied by my hole-saws. So I emptied that out and put my tube bending stuff in there. Perfect! Now I needed a toolbox for my hole saws, and also the tube flaring stuff that was in the same toolbox as my tube bending stuff also now needed it's own specific toolbox. Found the perfect toolbox for my hole saws in my bin of extra toolboxes. Had to cut up an old acetone can and make a little rectangular insert for the toolbox to hold the arbors and extra pilot bits and tools. Got that all sorted out and then started looking for a different toolbox for my flaring tools. Ended up deciding the perfect toolbox for them would be the toolbox currently occupied by my other soldering and plumbing toolbox. Didn't like the plastic tray in it, so decided to make my own metal tray to fit it. Finally got that done and my flaring stuff situated just perfectly in its new toolbox. Then I needed to put my soldering stuff in another toolbox. Found the perfect one for it in my bin of boxes again. Got it all put in there and organized just right and decided I didn't like the toolbox where my extra screwdrivers resided. Went ahead and put them all in the original tube bending and flaring box and sorted through them.

Then one of the things in that new organizational cabinet was an Excalibur windshield urethane cutting air tool. I wanted to use the box from it for other things, so I found an old blow-molded box that I thought would work perfectly for it and cut out the inside and transferred over the pre-cut foam insert. Put it in there and it fit nicely. Decided to add all my other windshield removal tools into the same box as well. Some fiddle fucking with the foam ensued and I got it all fitting nicely in the same box. Success!

By this time it was 3am and I hadn't cut one single piece of rod off the trailer. Had to get up early today to drive 100 miles away and pick up a big baler I bought, so I called it a night and came home. :homer:





[486] said:
grandpa used to cut his broken blades into hacksaw blades, I could do that, but I want to weld them back together, so I'm trying to learn
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I did that with some of the good sharp blades that broke. Only so many hacksaw blades a man needs though! :laughing: Maybe I'll try a short sawzall blade or weld it to a used up sawzall blade, or a body saw blade...
 
2big bronco said:
Porta band blades break for all kinds of stupid reasons from them getting pinched while cutting, to just snapping because they were probably poorly welded from the factory.
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I have smoked a bunch of blades. Never broke one though


2big bronco said:
It also only happens when you are using your only blade and still have 1 more cut to make.
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Ahh thats why. I start gettin nervous if I dont have 4 or 5 extras:laughing:
 
Nephew is a PSA fanboy, he usually gets a gift card or two for Christmas. I was in SC for a conference this summer, so I stopped in one. I picked up some swag for him, hat, tee shirt, bunch of stickers. I'll be seeing him soon-ish. Decided to frame a selfie I took of me in front of PSA Myrtle Beach for him. :laughing:

I bought a 2 pack of cheap 5x7 frames on Prime Deal Days.

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Glad I got a 2 pack of frames. It's cheap MDF with a sticker veneer that looks like barn wood. I was able to clean the guns up with a craft knife, but that bandolier was a lost cause.

I made vs. 2.0 without the bandolier.

Amazon's cheapest epoxy kit with black glittery dye. I've used epoxy for a lot of stuff, but this is my first decorative pour. Turns out my table isn't level.

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I wish the bandolier had worked out. Need to be a little more discerning about my cheap picture frames if I do something like this again. Though solid wood frames probably aren't cheap enough for me to be willing to whittle on. I actually shopped around for an off the shelf frame with guns on it, but all I could find were western themed with revolvers on them. It mostly turned out like I wanted. I'll be opening an Etsy store any day now. :laughing::flipoff2: Should be good for a laugh with the nephew at least.
 
billybob_81067 said:
Took it up to the shop and proceeded to spend the next few hours organizing, bagging up, and sealing all the stuff that was in the cabinet. Then where I got the bags from ................... didn't like the toolbox where my extra screwdrivers resided. Went ahead and put them all in the original tube bending and flaring box and sorted through them.
Click to expand...

well that was quite the ride :laughing: I get it, that's partially the reason my IH build hasn't seen a minute of attention since we moved in August. too many other squirrels to chase, and then more show up when you're already chasing one:homer:
Lee said:
I wish the bandolier had worked out. Need to be a little more discerning about my cheap picture frames if I do something like this again. Though solid wood frames probably aren't cheap enough for me to be willing to whittle on.
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Goodwill always has cheap ugly picture frames for a couple bucks. perfect for this kind of fiddling
 
budget76 said:
well that was quite the ride :laughing: I get it, that's partially the reason my IH build hasn't seen a minute of attention since we moved in August. too many other squirrels to chase, and then more show up when you're already chasing one:homer:
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What is sad is I didn't even include the secondary squared projects that sprouted up during that whole escapade. Like the holesaw arbor that had the stuck on hole-saw on it for the past couple years that was worn out. Somehow it had gotten past the end of the threads and spun in the relief cut at the base of the threads so I had to ruin the threads to get it off and then grind it down and re-thread it for the smaller size hole saws. Shit like that comes with the territory as well. :laughing:

Seemingly simple tasks end up being a complete shop re-organization shit-show at times.
 
We have an electric airsoft gun to non-lethally get a dozen turkeys to fuck off back over the fence. Works great for that but the ECU will kill the battery if connected while stored, and we want / need this to be a grab-and-go tool. So I needed to install an on/off switch but had zero spare room inside. Decided to make a tumor on top that holds the switch & doubles as a cheek riser to align with the elevated reflex sight.

This shows the clearance required to remove / insert the magazine on the P90 clone toy.
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The chunk sitting atop the stock started out as a tire bead blaster nozzle like the intact one on the bench.

That shock washer became the end plate, but cut like the red line on the washer next to it.
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Blue hot glue gun + belt grinder = seam eraser
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Tack-tack-tack on the other end to make nubs to retain that rubber plug.
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Measured 10 times 10 ways before being happy with my layout for the cut lines
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Pretty happy with the match-up

Underside of the shell, and starting to trim down the end cap.
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The tape helps show the weird path those skirts had to follow.
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Rubber end cap 90% done, + shell painted
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2 big-ass zip ties is all that's holding it on but it's rock-solid and the cheek riser height is spot-on
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Happy with how it came out.
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It looks integrated . . . -ish :flipoff2:
 
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